No start after intake manifold cleaning.

obscenic said:

I borrowed a compressor and pushed air through each glow plug with the cam just past tdc. 1 and 2 are fine, compressed air turned the engine, but 3 and 4 have a detectable

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Bump the valve with the above condition set.

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I can't get a seal on the intake valve, so I can't use air to turn the engine. I put #3 at the bottom of the powerstroke and pushed 100psi through the cylinder, and tapped the valve. Still no seal.

The trick is to tap the top of the cam follower with dowel and hammer, with enough force to open the valve maybe 1/4". It then snaps shut, crunching the carbon bits holding it open. Do with both cam lobes for that cylinder away from the followers, but not at tdc as you don't want piston close to the valves. Done right, this really works if the problem is carbon.

Is there any change in the hissing after bumping? How far open do you think it is opening? Can you tell that the air is helping snap the valve shut?

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Ski in NC said:

The trick is to tap the top of the cam follower with dowel and hammer, with enough force to open the valve maybe 1/4". It then snaps shut, crunching the carbon bits holding it open. Do with both cam lobes for that cylinder away from the followers, but not at tdc as you don't want piston close to the valves. Done right, this really works if the problem is carbon.

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X2


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Ski in NC said:

The trick is to tap the top of the cam follower with dowel and hammer, with enough force to open the valve maybe 1/4". It then snaps shut, crunching the carbon bits holding it open. Do with both cam lobes for that cylinder away from the followers, but not at tdc as you don't want piston close to the valves. Done right, this really works if the problem is carbon.

Click to expand...

Ahhh. That may have been key. I was maybe bumping it 1/16" at most. I think I will have to pull the cam to get a better shot at it, or at least a better dowel. I was being gentle...

NWFLYJ said:

X2

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Well! Thank you both
I didn't pull the cam - in my sheer laziness I used a rubber pad and a flathead screwdriver, and managed to get a seal on all 4 valves using this method. Thanks a million.

I did **** up on one hit, and slipped. It may cost me my chance of not removing the head, but I'm going to put a few miles on it to see what happens. Here's a photo of my epic ****up:


It doesn't *seem* to be interfering with the valve motion, but I know it's going to screw me down the road... If anyone wants to chime in on how much **** I'm in, I can handle the truth. I'll probably start a separate thread for it.

Anyway, now I have 4 intake valves sealing nicely enough. They seal enough to let 60psi turn the engine. I'm planning on doing a chemical/air pressure cleanout of the intake ports. I will use air from inside the cylinder to make sure nothing leaks in. Any advice on fluid to use as to not cause me to blow out my seals when I do finally start it?

I think the accident there will be just fine.

The gunk in the Intake ports is a little more flakey due to the heat of the head. I've always used a mirror and "custom made" scraper to get the junk out. I've never used any fluids at all ....... custom vacuum cleaner probe and compressed air....... scrape, vacuum, blow, etc., repeat. Obviously, both the Intake and Exhaust valves are closed during the process.

I'm sans shop vac. Is it ok to just blow it out and deal with the mess?

I got the handiest little 1-gal shop vac for less than $20 from Sears IIRC.
Upright household type with a removable hose would work, too.

I have one of those el-cheapo Black and Decker vacs. I use a short piece of 3/4 inch black water pipe (plumbing type) taped it to the regular flex hose of the vac. Then, I used a 1/2 piece of pipe on the end of the 3/4 inch pipe. I then use an 1/2" elbow with short 1/2 inch extension to reach back in the ports. The smaller pipe has much higher suction velocity! ....... works great. Then just discard the short dirty piece of pipe when finished. It's also good to have some dust in the vacuum cleaner bag to absorb the black crud!

What is the damage on the pic? If it is the screw driver mark , I don't think you will have a problem.

Scrape and clean is the most productive, if you have time to leave it sit mineral spirits softens the crude after a day of soaking.

Glad to hear one of my tips helped someone out. Mark

Well, I guess I was looking at the wrong thingy .........

I would not trust that lifter..... that's a pretty nice wack that shouldn't be ignored. The lifter is subject to break-up sometime in the near future ..... anywhere from 1000 to 10k miles! That whack will rotate around to the Cam lobe and might just eat-away at the it too!

Some well say to replace them all ..... but a used one with equivalent miles on it would be a far better risk than leaving that one in there!

Just my opinion based on a little experience with lifters that got whacked from below...

A good rebuilt head is something over $600.00 and new ones well beyond that... a set of lifters is something close to $100.00 (give or take).

AndyBees said:

Well, I guess I was looking at the wrong thingy .........

I would not trust that lifter..... that's a pretty nice wack that shouldn't be ignored. The lifter is subject to break-up sometime in the near future ..... anywhere from 1000 to 10k miles! That whack will rotate around to the Cam lobe and might just eat-away at the it too!

Some well say to replace them all ..... but a used one with equivalent miles on it would be a far better risk than leaving that one in there!

Just my opinion based on a little experience with lifters that got whacked from below...

A good rebuilt head is something over $600.00 and new ones well beyond that... a set of lifters is something close to $100.00 (give or take).

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I hope that whack doesn't rotate around to the cam lobe, since it's not on the lifter, but on the head I think you were looking at it right the first time. The lifters are smooth as a whistle.

AndyBees said:

I have one of those el-cheapo Black and Decker vacs. I use a short piece of 3/4 inch black water pipe (plumbing type) taped it to the regular flex hose of the vac. Then, I used a 1/2 piece of pipe on the end of the 3/4 inch pipe. I then use an 1/2" elbow with short 1/2 inch extension to reach back in the ports. The smaller pipe has much higher suction velocity! ....... works great. Then just discard the short dirty piece of pipe when finished. It's also good to have some dust in the vacuum cleaner bag to absorb the black crud!

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My problem is that the only vacuum I have access to is a top of the line dyson. With the oil consistency of the gunk in my engine, I would be in a world of pain if I filled it up with that.

Would it be a terrible idea to go gently with a wire brush on a flexible drill?

obscenic said:

Would it be a terrible idea to go gently with a wire brush on a flexible drill?

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Some people have used some frayed wire rope spun with a drill motor to clean the intake manifold. It could be useful here as well. Drop the $20 on a little shop vac as an early Christmas present to yourself.

whitedog said:

Some people have used some frayed wire rope spun with a drill motor to clean the intake manifold. It could be useful here as well. Drop the $20 on a little shop vac as an early Christmas present to yourself.

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I think I'll drop a chunk of change on a nice one. I have a hard time buying cheap stuff that I know won't last

Because everything was sealing correctly I started it up to see if it would... it did. Grey smoke was coming out of the intake ports and it was loud as hell, but it ran! Anything I should be worried about? I expect I knocked a bunch of carbon in when I was snapping the valves shut.

Edit: just realized the smoke was probably mostly coming from the EGR... and the noise. I didn't have any of the intake piping attached when I started it.

I just wanted to give a HUGE thank you to everyone who chimed in on this thread. The whole process was a great learning experience for me and without this thread I wouldn't have been empowered to keep going at it instead of just taking it sheepishly to my local garage. You're all rad, and I'll help out where I can with anyone else who needs help with the same problems I encountered. Thanks a million!

I've put 1000km on it since wrapping this repair up, and it's getting better mileage than it was and running smoother - and no further issues!

Well, that's just... rad.