Parking break issues

My parking break went out this morning, luckily it was only that the cables had fallen off of the parking break mechanism.

However once I got them back on, it appears that the drivers side cable travels almost twice as far as the passenger side cable,
I got under the car, and I can see that the piston on the back of the brakes (which I'm pretty sure is the parking break?) moves twice as far on the drivers side as well.

Here's some photos

If these are original PB cables then one or both is corroded and seized up inside the sheath.
Run your hand along the sheath near the brake end of the cables. If they feel lumpy and swelled then you have your answer.
It also could be the caliper is hanging up or the pads are stuck and not floating smoothly.

I added a few more photos, I didn't feel any lumps. Although my brake pads have a good 80% life to them but squeak every once in a while, Does anyone know of a write up on checking the calipers and brakes, Or should I just take it into a shop?

The cables need replacement. Cheap and easy. Use the new style that our vendors carry.

Now for the travel at the caliper. Usually, the cable replacement will take care of it. However, you may have a bad caliper. Not uncommon in cars where the brake systems have not been bled regularly and water is in the system. You may have to replace the caliper(s). Many advocate doing both rears at the same time to maintain system efficiency.

Good luck.

They need replacement based on the pictures, or based on not engaging properly? do you have a link to the new style?

From what I can see, I'm not so sure it's your cables. Both cables appear to be functioning properly.

I suspect that the driver's caliper is your primary problem.

1) It's damp, and if that's brake fluid that's an indication it's leaking (never a good sign). How's your brake fluid level? What condition is the fluid in? When was the last time the brakes were flushed?

2) I'm not sure the driver's side brake is even engaging with the parking brake. From the photos it would appear that the lever arm simply runs out of travel and jams up against that bolt head.

First thing I would want to take a hard look at is the driver's side caliper.

To see if the brake is even engaging:

Fully block the other 3 wheels
engage your parking brake
Put car in neutral
jack up that wheel
see if you can spin it.
I bet you can.

Assuming a bad caliper and you're replacing one or more....and assuming your fluid is really nasty with water and corrosion, before you change the calipers is a great time to flush out the system before you push all that crud into your new caliper(s).

Brake fluid, right behind power steering fluid, is among the most neglected fluids in a car.

You called it spot on Scoutx, jacked up the car parking break on the drivers side spun freely. Also my brake fluid was at the min mark, but what was still in the reservoir looked pretty good.

So I guess that clears up that the caliper isn't engaging, and I am leaking fluid (probably)

Is the e-brake assembly inside the caliper, or outside? Do I have to order the whole caliper, or just the assembly.

That question I can't answer conclusively. Based on your pictures I say it's almost certain that it's internal. Probably a cam (self adjusting) working against the back side of the piston. So you will probably have to replace/rebuild the entire caliper assembly. I would also tend to go ahead and flush since bleeding the brakes is already going to accomplish 75% of that anyway. Don't forget the clutch system if it shares the brake reservoir...or even if it doesn't.

Also, when bleeding avoid running the pedal all the way to the floor. Crud can build up at the unused parts of the master cylinder and getting into it can scar the seals, leading to a brake pedal that starts drifting towards the floor as you apply the brakes.

Needless to say, a pressure flush/bleed is preferred if you can borrow/rent the equipment from someone.

Other than making sure you didn't get any fluid on your pads, and you get the rest of the fluid cleaned off of everything else. I would say fix that caliper (and possibly the other depending on your preferences <and money>). Flush/Bleed and you'll probably be back in business.

PS if you have any glazed spots on your pads. Rough up those areas before reinstalling. Do NOT breath the dust, and wash up afterwards.

Good luck, and glad I could help diagnose the issue.

Oh, final PS....Don't let the piston come out of the caliper assembly when you install it. Often excessive travel advances the parking brake cam, and you can't push the piston back in without resetting it (often by twisting the piston which can be murder on the seal and/or dust boot). So best to avoid the issue.

You said fix that caliper, does that just mean replace?

Autozone has the caliper for $74 plus core, but what I can't tell is if that includes the parking break assembly, and if that's where the problem is then I'm back to the beginning.

For most people that means replace. It will include all the internals, but you will probably have to transfer over things like the parking brake cable retaining bracket and parking brake activation lever and so on. I would get the caliper, and then transfer over any external parts necessary. It should come with a complete list of instructions on what you will need to transfer, and exactly how to do it. Keep the core, until you get the replacement installed and everything is working as it should. Plenty of time to turn the core in after the job is done.

Just thought I'd update this as resooved, changed out the caliper, and everything works perfectly, still have a small squeak on light breaking and slow speeds, but I hear thats pretty normal on vw's

A parking break is finding a prime parking space at a crowded mall. A parking brake keeps your car from rolling when parked.