Issue tightening down swaybar bushing

For my first time replacing the clutch, steering rack, and pretty much my entire front end, things have been going good, but I hit a snag today. Didnt quite have the sway bar bushing clamp lined up right while bolting it up and realized I was stripping it out. Could not get the bolt to re-thread after that. I did my best using a tap (held by vice-grips) on the edge of the opening and with a new bolt I was able to get it going again, but it stops just short of bottoming out and just doesn't get any tighter. Should I have run the tap all the way through? I would need to pick up a proper handle. Could I try washers? Leave it alone without torquing down this side? How likely is it to back out here? It's pretty tight on there.
Thanks.

You can bash the captive nut off fairly easily with a hammer and chisel then just use a regular but and bolt.

Had to do that previously when a bolt snapped

the bolt you're using is too long and it's bottoming on the sub frame

intro said:

I did my best using a tap (held by vice-grips) on the edge of the opening and with a new bolt I was able to get it going again, but it stops just short of bottoming out and just doesn't get any tighter. Should I have run the tap all the way through? I would need to pick up a proper handle.

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I've used a 12 point socket, extension, and T handle to tap where I couldn't get in.
Do you have a straight shot to the hole?

wonneber said:

I've used a 12 point socket, extension, and T handle to tap where I couldn't get in.
Do you have a straight shot to the hole?

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No, subframe is back in unfortunately, coming at it from the side. T handle is what I need to get I guess if I'm going to try the tap again. The thing is the angle is so funky.

jimbote said:

the bolt you're using is too long and it's bottoming on the sub frame

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Was wondering about that, but I could have sworn I got the same size bolt.

I'll check on this tomorrow though. You may be right.

Seatman said:

You can bash the captive nut off fairly easily with a hammer and chisel then just use a regular but and bolt.

Had to do that previously when a bolt snapped

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Contemplated doing this but worried that if the welds were strong and I wasn't able to knock it off I'd be in worse shape. Good to know it can be done, thanks.

intro said:

Contemplated doing this but worried that if the welds were strong and I wasn't able to knock it off I'd be in worse shape. Good to know it can be done, thanks.

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Funnily enough I thought the same but came across a thread on here where the guy did it so gave it a go, a couple of good hits it was off. The part the nuts welded to didn't even flinch.

jimbote said:

the bolt you're using is too long and it's bottoming on the sub frame

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You're the man! Thanks for catching that. Two smaller bolts did the trick.

intro said:

You're the man! Thanks for catching that. Two smaller bolts did the trick.

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good deal, sometimes i'll use a slightly longer bolt to initially compress the bushing, then reinstall the stock bolt ... those bushings can be real PIA