I did affect a plastics repair using super glue and accelerator on the top side.
Should have done it from the bottom as it left a whate haze that is objectionalble.
My usual plastic repair would have been to clean it with degreaser,
spray with a little super glue accelerator,
place a swatch of fiberglass cloth bridging the crack on the bottom and
drip super glue on the fiberglass until saturated.
That really is a strong bond and lasts forever,
bur looks bad so you must do it from the back.
Wonder what you have tried in the past?
I think I'll buy a new one if they are under $50.
John
John,
On plastics breaks in flat pieces like the cowling, I find that ABS
plastic sheeting works well.
I pick up the sheets that are about
6 different thicknesses and use either "super glue"(Isocyanate)
or ordinary plumber's glue for ABS. Both of these glues/chemicals
literally "fuse" the original and reinforcing layers of plastics
and it is very strong.
This is my method where there is room on the backside to
put the reinforcing layer without it showing!
On breaks in "not-so-flat" pieces, I can often use the thinnest
ABS sheets and literally either encase the broken piece in new
layer of ABS plastic using a "heat gun" that reaches ~700-to-1,000
deg.F.
Breaks where it is in full view and it is desirable to have the surface
look well/or/new... these offer the greatest challenge!
Once I made structural repairs to what was a $300 (if replaced)
kick panel that was not the same color as we needed...
this on a Mercedes... and once the plastics repair was finished,
we color matched the paint at a paint store that custom mixes
aerosol cans that is formulated for plastics!
This worked out fair well and cost less than $50...
but this was on a panel that is on the bottom of the dash!
Sam Ross