CR140 Stage 3

mickyTDI said:

When i fitted the 170 turbo to my euro 140 without a tune the car felt exactly the same. But on a dyno it measured 153bhp at the crank.

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I'm running stage 2 malone for stock turbo on mine with the 170 turbo installed. Feels the same below 3k and runs exactly the same boost as before but the stock NMS passat turbo was tiny and started dying out shortly after 3k rpm. Now there's a noticeable increase in power due to the boost being available above 3k rpm. I can't wait for stage 3.5 as soon as I get my goodwill package $!

I'm still stage 2 with a DSG and my shudder has gotten slightly worse, has anyone had any luck with installing the Superpro TDI Dogbone insert to mitigate the shudder issues? I really want to go Stg3 but with the shudder getting worse it worries me...

camboscams said:

I'm still stage 2 with a DSG and my shudder has gotten slightly worse, has anyone had any luck with installing the Superpro TDI Dogbone insert to mitigate the shudder issues? I really want to go Stg3 but with the shudder getting worse it worries me...

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I'm with you. I'm worried that the shudder will get even worse with Stage 3.5. I just received the Black Forest dogbone insert but not sure when I'll get it installed. I don't expect the insert will improve the shudder problem, though.

Yea i am skeptical for sure. I guess it would limit the rotation of the engine so it can't build up any momentum to slam against the DMF stops? I don't know. I think the real solution would be progressive rate springs in the DMF. Has anyone ever looked into retrofitting different springs into a DMF or can you you even access the springs at all?

camboscams said:

I'm still stage 2 with a DSG and my shudder has gotten slightly worse, has anyone had any luck with installing the Superpro TDI Dogbone insert to mitigate the shudder issues? I really want to go Stg3 but with the shudder getting worse it worries me...

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I have a different dogbone insert, I've had it installed since before I went stage 2. Never had any shudder when I was stage 2. I'm stage 3.5 now and get shudder so if it does anything regarding shudder it isn't enough to deal with the 3.5 setup.

Is the DMF only damaged when shudder occurs? Or is it constantly wearing out at a higher rate while producing more power? So far so good for mine I'm at 20k miles of relatively hard driving on stage 2. What are signs that it is on its way out??

raider929 said:

I have a different dogbone insert, I've had it installed since before I went stage 2. Never had any shudder when I was stage 2. I'm stage 3.5 now and get shudder so if it does anything regarding shudder it isn't enough to deal with the 3.5 setup.

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How is the vibration at idle? And, are all dogbone inserts created equal?
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Perry01 said:

How is the vibration at idle? And, are all dogbone inserts created equal?
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Definitely noticeable vibration at idle, it's worse in reverse though. Once you're moving forward it isn't noticeable at all.

I think the main difference in different mounts is just how hard they are. Mine is 88A durometer polyurethane which is just about as stiff as they come. I think other companies make softer ones (70 or so) that would theoretically cause less vibration.

raider929 said:

Definitely noticeable vibration at idle, it's worse in reverse though. Once you're moving forward it isn't noticeable at all.

I think the main difference in different mounts is just how hard they are. Mine is 88A durometer polyurethane which is just about as stiff as they come. I think other companies make softer ones (70 or so) that would theoretically cause less vibration.

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So, the stiffer the dogbone mount, the more vibration but also more effective?
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Has anyone felt the need for an oil catch can yet? I think I'm starting to get more blow by than I would like and I never really thought about adding a catch can until now.

767wrench said:

Is the DMF only damaged when shudder occurs? Or is it constantly wearing out at a higher rate while producing more power? So far so good for mine I'm at 20k miles of relatively hard driving on stage 2. What are signs that it is on its way out??

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I'm highly interested in this as well. Like I said before, I can produce shudder in 4-6, low RPM, but I'm getting a lot better at avoiding it (down shifting more). However, I'm convinced my car has more vibration at idle now and for what it's worth, it seems like it's the worse when I'm stopped and the brakes are applied. If I'm on flat ground, and don't have to apply the brake... the vibration isn't as bad. I wonder it it's related to an alternator pulley or something.

gloaming said:

Has anyone felt the need for an oil catch can yet? I think I'm starting to get more blow by than I would like and I never really thought about adding a catch can until now.

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You may want to double check the turbo to see if it's seals might ahev sprung a tiny leak.

evolDiesel said:

I'm highly interested in this as well. Like I said before, I can produce shudder in 4-6, low RPM, but I'm getting a lot better at avoiding it (down shifting more). However, I'm convinced my car has more vibration at idle now and for what it's worth, it seems like it's the worse when I'm stopped and the brakes are applied. If I'm on flat ground, and don't have to apply the brake... the vibration isn't as bad. I wonder it it's related to an alternator pulley or something.

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Does it make any difference between having the clutch in or out in neutral? The fact that there's a difference between being on a hill vs flat ground to me may be engine/transmission/dog-bone mounts. If you're still running the mounts that came with the car from the factory I'd look into replacing them with a uprated aftermarket mount that will last longer.

gloaming said:

Has anyone felt the need for an oil catch can yet? I think I'm starting to get more blow by than I would like and I never really thought about adding a catch can until now.

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No, don't put a catch can on your car. Nothing good will come of it. The con's outweigh the pro's 100:1

I accidentally ran without a CCV tube hooked up for a couple days, next to no oil was on the top of the valve cover.

ATR said:

Does it make any difference between having the clutch in or out in neutral? The fact that there's a difference between being on a hill vs flat ground to me may be engine/transmission/dog-bone mounts. If you're still running the mounts that came with the car from the factory I'd look into replacing them with a uprated aftermarket mount that will last longer.

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I have the Black Forest bushing to pound in there. Just haven't gotten to it yet. As for clutch in/out... I'm usually clutch out, sitting in neutral. I'll have to play with it and see if I notice a difference between in/out. Right now it's just a slight difference when the brake is applied or not.

JFettig said:

No, don't put a catch can on your car. Nothing good will come of it. The con's outweigh the pro's 100:1
I accidentally ran without a CCV tube hooked up for a couple days, next to no oil was on the top of the valve cover.

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Hmm ok. These cars are oil burners anyway, I guess it's just some small added fuel.

gloaming said:

Hmm ok. These cars are oil burners anyway, I guess it's just some small added fuel.

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1.5yrs and over 40k miles on stage 3, 65k total on the car. Only started burning oil over the past 10k. Before that, maybe 1qt over a 10k change interval. Now? ~1qt/2k miles.

Haha. I didn't mean that kinda oil burning. I Was just calling it a diesel. The engine can combust oil, bio d, veggie oil etc.

bloc said:

1.5yrs and over 40k miles on stage 3, 65k total on the car. Only started burning oil over the past 10k. Before that, maybe 1qt over a 10k change interval. Now? ~1qt/2k miles.

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That's significant for sure. At that rate you could probably skip oil changes and just change the filter. Kidding, sort of.

turbobrick240 said:

That's significant for sure. At that rate you could probably skip oil changes and just change the filter. Kidding, sort of.

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The thought had occurred to me..

Recently tried switching from Mobil1 TDT to Rotella T6 to see if that reduces consumption. Don't have enough miles on the change to tell yet. Do have UOA planned for the end of this change, with the understanding that all of the added oil would be diluting any wear elements. No significant blue smoke, though I'm not sure if that rate of burning is enough to see it.

For now I'm just dealing with it.. but at some point will need to check compression, find a way to test turbo seals, have a look at the rings, etc. Not feeling good about it.

Another poll question for this amazingly knowledgeable group:

Recently I've been noticing the raw diesel exhaust smell coming in to the cabin more. In fact, the only time it DOESN'T is when I'm flying down the highway -OR- I turn on the recirculation button. I swear I used to only smell it in the summer at a stop light when I had my windows down. What's your guy's experience with the exhaust smell getting in the cabin? Could I have a leak somewhere from the manifold back??

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evolDiesel said:

Another poll question for this amazingly knowledgeable group:

Recently I've been noticing the raw diesel exhaust smell coming in to the cabin more. In fact, the only time it DOESN'T is when I'm flying down the highway -OR- I turn on the recirculation button. I swear I used to only smell it in the summer at a stop light when I had my windows down. What's your guy's experience with the exhaust smell getting in the cabin? Could I have a leak somewhere from the manifold back??

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Seems like you would have to have a leak somewhere. Which exhaust do you have?

evolDiesel said:

Another poll question for this amazingly knowledgeable group:

Recently I've been noticing the raw diesel exhaust smell coming in to the cabin more. In fact, the only time it DOESN'T is when I'm flying down the highway -OR- I turn on the recirculation button. I swear I used to only smell it in the summer at a stop light when I had my windows down. What's your guy's experience with the exhaust smell getting in the cabin? Could I have a leak somewhere from the manifold back??

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

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Same issue. Stock plumbing.

I remember someone somewhere posted 3 or 4 trips to a dealer under warranty, finally concluded it was either head to manifold/turbo gasket, or the outlet turbo clamp.

Makes sense. Standing still with the hood closed, it'll float to the passenger firewall high and get sucked in.

Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!

I had that once. The o ring on the fuel filter tore while the tech was reinstalling it and it starting leaking diesel after a while. Check your fuel filter.

It seems unlikely for your car to have suddenly sprung a leak in the trunk lid seal or trunk box area.. though that is possible. May be worth pulling the rear bumper cover off and checking whether the air exit flaps behind the rear wheel are still sealing properly.

That said, I'd be looking for soot marks from the head back. Pay attention to EGR block-off plates.. if not very thick these can warp and leak pretty easily.

Quick way to see if it's coming from the rear or the cowl would be to clear the cabin by getting onto the freeway then put the aircon in recirculate mode and see if the fume issue comes right back when you slow down. Recirc would stop drawing fumes in through the cowl if that's where it is coming from. If the issue is coming from the trunk area in theory the issue should get worse, since the car is no longer drawing fresh air into the front to push fumes out the back.

evolDiesel said:

Another poll question for this amazingly knowledgeable group:

Recently I've been noticing the raw diesel exhaust smell coming in to the cabin more. In fact, the only time it DOESN'T is when I'm flying down the highway -OR- I turn on the recirculation button. I swear I used to only smell it in the summer at a stop light when I had my windows down. What's your guy's experience with the exhaust smell getting in the cabin? Could I have a leak somewhere from the manifold back??

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

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I have the exact same issue. I have just been driving with recirc on (a bit annoying imo). I don't have very much free time or space to look for a leak right now. I was kinda just thinking it was because of the downpipe and cat removal just making it more pungent, but if you guys seem to think there is a leak somewhere that's a little concerning. evolDiesel: let us know if you figure out what's going on.

Do you guys think it would be wise to spray some soapy water in an effort to try to find the leak? Though, that may be hard if it's the exhaust manifold gasket since it will evaporate pretty darn quick.

Also, just to be clear (my memory is a little foggy at the moment) with the CR170 set up the only egr port blocked off is the HP off of the exhaust manifold correct? The LP would have been attached to the DPF downpipe that has since been removed.

Correct on the EGR port. Passenger side of the manifold though, as opposed to USDM CR140 manifold driver's side. LP EGR was plumbed from after the DPF, through the filter, into the cooler, then back into the turbo compressor inlet adapter. Shouldn't have to worry about that at all on a CR170 turbo setup unless you went to great lengths to keep LP EGR.

I can't remember what block-off plate came in the kit, but I ended up fabricating my own out of 3/8" plate steel. No way that'll warp in this application. I do remember pictures of others not being nearly as thick though.. and possibly even made of aluminum. I can't see that working for long at all on the exhaust.

I don't really think soapy water would be useful on exhaust.. but you really should see soot anywhere you have a leak.

On my car the only time I smell exhaust is when it is warming up or has been idling for an extended period... and even then rarely inside the passenger compartment.

So I was checking my egr delete race pipe for a boost leak since I've been noticing oil accumulating under and around it (I mentioned this in previous posts). I decided to check the oil levels and I've consumed about a quart of oil in 5,000 miles (I'm at 95,000). Has anyone else noticed an increase in oil consumption? I wonder if the oil I'm seeing leak out of the race pipe isn't just from blow by, but might be from a leaky turbo seal? My driving habits have changed significantly though. I now drive 75% inter-city and 25% highway as opposed to the opposite. Do you guys think more city driving would increase blow by or is this just something people are seeing with the stage 3? This is my first oil change interval with the stage 3 set up, so I'm still a bit green with this.

Also I noticed a strong exhaust smell under the hood while the car was running, so something exhaust-wise is definitely leaking.

Possibly time to call Dr. Les

Hey guys, thanks for the input on the exhaust smell.

First off, if anyone talks to Les please post what he says here. I'll be calling too.

So, I already owned a MKVI stage 2 and don't ever remember noxious exhaust in the passenger compartment! This car is BAD!

The difference between this one and the old one is that THIS ONE got an HP EGR
delete, an LP EGR delete and ASV delete.

The only time it's not choking me out is when I'm driving down the highway, otherwise I have to run the air on recirculation at all times. If I don't, I start to feel nauseous and get head aches. It's getting worse. I don't even want my wife or kids in there anymore.

I've had so many straight piped diesels and none of them ever got me sick. Something is definitely not right here. If I can't figure it out I'll have to put it back to stock and sell it. I REALLY don't want to do that but I feel like it's a death box taking years off my life.

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That's crazy. But if running on recirculate fixes the issue it has to be a leak in the engine compartment. I know it sucks but I would pull everything off and reinstall it