Knee to fuel pump, think i broke it.

preface: I cleaned my intake manifold this weekend. took it off, did the fire trick, and re-attached it. However, while removing the bolts attaching it to the engine, I found that one bolt required a particular angle in order to get loose. So I hopped up on top of the engine and put one knee on the fuel pump, the other on the quarter panel, and put all my weight into the stuck bolt. Damn thing didn't stand a chance.
After everything was back together, I got in and tried to start her up. It started hard and slew a lot of smoke. It drove good, actually drove super good, nice and fast, no issues.
After a few seconds I got a CEL. Kinda sorta ignored it and drove 200 miles on a ski trip the next day lol. thought it had something too do with the EGR. car drove great the whole way, again better power and pickup because of the clean manifold.

Well, I was driving and all of the sudden shes really down on power, Turbo sounds different and spools later, and its making a weird plunger-like noise for a second on startup. A little greater than normal amount of blue smoke comes out when I romp it, otherwise its a normal amount of white smoke.

Finally got around to scanning that CEL, and what do ya know but these came up:
P1563-Quantity adjuster lower limit stop value
P1562-Quantity adjudter, Upper limit stop value
P1161-IAT sensor circit open/short to B+
P1248-Injection pump fuel metering control (AA) range/performance

Autozone said I need a new pump, rip.

My questions:
1 Did I thrash the pump by kneeing it? everything was running perfectly before I started the process of taking the manifold off.
2 Any idea how to fix this? Do I really need a new pump?
3 Can the hammer mod do anything to help this?

Personally, I’d clear the codes and check timing. Maybe you somehow shifted the pump. Check that the plugs are fully seated. I’d probably disconnect them and reconnect.

-Todd

luke.weiser said:

I found that one bolt required a particular angle in order to get loose. So I hopped up on top of the engine and put one knee on the fuel pump, the other on the quarter panel, and put all my weight into the stuck bolt. Damn thing didn't stand a chance.

Click to expand...

theres the 6 or 8, 6(i think) allen bolts on the back of the head. any of these that are hard to turn, they are steel bolts in an aluminum head. the threads are the aluminum head. they take fairly minimum tightening. about 18ftlbs. allens can strip the hex socket side of bolt head if really 'leaned on'. there is 2 allens also at top egr connection, i know of a few of the egr connections perhaps all 4 egr cooler/or pipe connections that one of the fasteners (nut or bolt, bolts are allen) that is inaccessible. usually such work has to be done with head removed. the top egr to intake fastener uses a special swivel type of and allen, its also an extension, you now match a socket to, usually 1/4" and go from there, again these are not over-tightened fasteners.

yea, big 10/4 on what toddA1 said. it takes a significant amount of force to move that pump even when its loos for timing adjustment.
You need VCDS and a connector to check your QA in real time Sounds like you self hammer mod the IP or some connections got messed with.

You can quick and dirty a hammer mod and your not going to damage anything. Once you have the bolts loos, hammer it with TINY TINY taps until you get to rough idle, then tiny of the tiniest tapps the other way, this will get you to about 2ish maybe 3. Cant hurt if nothing else works. I would check other things. maybe the timing is a bit off, who knows, you need VCDS and a vagcom tool. cant hurt to check your timing on the belt, but i dont see why.

you did the right thing to ignore the autobox stores BS advice. they will say anything as they dont know jack squat, especially about TDI's

I'm shying away from work on external TDI's, but if you can get it to me I'll have a look. I have a Vag-Com and pretty much every specialty tool needed to work on them, along with tons of spare parts. Odds are good it's a wiring issue and not a bad IP. If it is a wiring issue I can fix that too.

Do not go to AutoZone for advice or parts for a Dub.

Well, did you get it right?
BTW hammers are for carpentry etc. absolute last resort.

UPDATE:

After sitting overnight, the codes cleared and the car is fine. Only codes that still pop up are over-fueling ones for my Evry mod.

Weird to think they just cleared themselves. Its been weeks and I haven't experienced a similar incident I think I'm in the clear.