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Fuels & Lubricants Discussion all about Fuels & Lubricants. synthetic oil, conventional oil, brands, change intervals, diesel grades, gelling and such debated items like that. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed. This forum is NOT for the discussion of biodiesel and other alternative fuels.

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Old October 28th, 2018, 17:23   #3481
Mrrogers1
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Oh dear, doesn't look good. Emissions recall isnt agreeing with it. Emission recall done at 51k kms

3rd oil sample dealers gave me wrong oil. 2009+ oil apperently is a bit different
The 2009+ oil is 507 spec so it should have been the same. Now, the 2006 oil was 505 spec and definitely different. Next UOA should be interesting, wondering what's going on there.

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Old October 28th, 2018, 17:32   #3482
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The 2009+ oil is 507 spec so it should have been the same. Now, the 2006 oil was 505 spec and definitely different. Next UOA should be interesting, wondering what's going on there.

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So do u think maybe u got someone’s else oil ?


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Old October 29th, 2018, 01:42   #3483
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New to me '03 Golf TDI. Got it about a month ago from the 2nd owner and 167K miles. Really like it, however it's too small. I'd prefer a Jetta or Wagon instead.

47 MPGs average combined hand calculated on 2 fill ups.

Needed an Oil Change and Fuel Filter. I also replaced the fuel supply/return lines from the filter to the IP as they were showing their age. Other than that it is very clean and well maintained vehicle.

Engine is basically stock except a Malone Stage 2 tune and Bosio PP520 nozzles.

The PO has reduced EGR flow using adaption function in VCDS.

Report says D1 ESP however it's M1 TDT, CJ-4 version. Surprisingly this is the same wear profile I've seen when using D1 in my 2.8 Duramax. Overall the wear report is really good considering the EGR system is functional. Hard to believe, really... I took the sample mid-drain.
Re-filled with RLI Biosyn CJ-4, it's a 50/50 blend of 10w30 and 15w40 + 2% Booster pak = 10w40. Replaced the Mann with a Bosch Premium filter. I don't think RLI can outdo ESP or TDT but we shall see...


Last edited by CleverUserName; October 31st, 2018 at 01:45.
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Old October 31st, 2018, 17:49   #3484
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CleverUserName,
If you are trying to reduce or beat the TDT UOA you could probably easily do it with Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN). To reduce iron wear you need the 185 VI which is attained without exccessive use of VI index modifying polymers which improves HTHS and flash point.

Thats likely what you were after with your combination and mix. But you lose out on the benefit of increased flow and reduced wear at startup. The other benefit at start up of all RLI products is the improved boundary or lubricity during start up and shut down.

The difference between Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN) and the low ash version is a reduction in the amount of antiwear and TBN to attain the latters low ash( equal to CJ4). The advantage of the former( equal to a CJI) is you have the additional additives already and unnecessary use the 2% adder pack.

Just in case your interested I use the low ash 5w-40 and drive one year or 15000 miles, at month (6) I add 2% and then at month (9) I add another 2% in hope that I retain the CJ4 low ash qualitys without deminished wear additives.

I would expect with your '03 you would likely get to 15000 miles with no additives using the Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN).

One of the reasons you can run the RLI out passed 10,000 miles is its tolerance for diesel fuel dilution.
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Old October 31st, 2018, 20:41   #3485
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Originally Posted by James & Son View Post
CleverUserName,
If you are trying to reduce or beat the TDT UOA you could probably easily do it with Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN). To reduce iron wear you need the 185 VI which is attained without exccessive use of VI index modifying polymers which improves HTHS and flash point.
Thats likely what you were after with your combination and mix. But you lose out on the benefit of increased flow and reduced wear at startup. The other benefit at start up of all RLI products is the improved boundary or lubricity during start up and shut down.
The difference between Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN) and the low ash version is a reduction in the amount of antiwear and TBN to attain the latters low ash( equal to CJ4). The advantage of the former( equal to a CJI) is you have the additional additives already and unnecessary use the 2% adder pack.
Just in case your interested I use the low ash 5w-40 and drive one year or 15000 miles, at month (6) I add 2% and then at month (9) I add another 2% in hope that I retain the CJ4 low ash qualitys without deminished wear additives.
I would expect with your '03 you would likely get to 15000 miles with no additives using the Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN).
One of the reasons you can run the RLI out passed 10,000 miles is its tolerance for diesel fuel dilution.
Hi, James & Son.

I had two bottles of the booster pak which were ordered about a year ago. I am just using them up, 1/2 bottle (4oz) in my Golf and 2.8 Duramax at each OCI. I do not plan on buying anymore booster pak.

I created this mix of 10w30 & 15w40 because I got a bunch of the 10w30 CJ-4 for cheap and wanted to thicken it up a little. The 15w40 has great properties (Low NOACK, High VI, and High FP) so it seemed like the best option.

I had this "10w40" blend tested by Oil Analyzers, it is a "thin" 40wt and it has a VI of 172.
  1. 78.8 cSt @ 40c
  2. 13.3 cSt @ 100c
  3. NOACK 8.5% (11% + 6%/2 = 8.5%)
  4. 526 ppm of Sb
  5. ~1100 ppm of Phosphourus

As you can see it has superior cold flow (40c) properties at the mild temperatures we see here in CA. I don't need a low winter rating so 10w, 15w and even SAE 30 are fine here.

These higher winter rating blends use thicker base oils so the flash points are typically higher than a 5w.

I'm staying with the low-ash versions because I'm also using this in my 2.8 Duramax equipped with emissions controls. The 10 TBN CI-4+ version of the 5w40 is excessive SA. I also would be changing the oil once a year anyway so I don't really need to exceed a 10k mile interval as I have two vehicles. CJ-4 is fine for me.

I would also like to mix the 15w40 with the SAE 30 next as that would be even a lower NOACK (6.5%) and higher flash point. That is the next thing I will try if the Oil Analysis results are better than what I've seen with TDT and D1 ESP CJ-4 versions.

I'm attaching a copy of the OAI report for your reference:

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Old November 1st, 2018, 22:38   #3486
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Oh dear, doesn't look good. Emissions recall isn't agreeing with it. Emission recall done at 51k kms
3rd oil sample dealers gave me wrong oil. 2009+ oil apparently is a bit different
Why would the molybdenum values change so dramatically? That would concern me more than the sodium, I would think.
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Old November 2nd, 2018, 16:17   #3487
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Why would the molybdenum values change so dramatically? That would concern me more than the sodium, I would think.
Molybdenum is an anti-friction additive. Some motor oils have a lot of it, some have a little, and some have none. Also, for those who want more, there is this>>>
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Old November 4th, 2018, 08:55   #3488
James & Son
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Hi, James & Son.
I had two bottles of the booster pak which were ordered about a year ago. I am just using them up, 1/2 bottle (4oz) in my Golf and 2.8 Duramax at each OCI. I do not plan on buying anymore booster pak.
I created this mix of 10w30 & 15w40 because I got a bunch of the 10w30 CJ-4 for cheap and wanted to thicken it up a little. The 15w40 has great properties (Low NOACK, High VI, and High FP) so it seemed like the best option.
I had this "10w40" blend tested by Oil Analyzers, it is a "thin" 40wt and it has a VI of 172.
  1. 78.8 cSt @ 40c
  2. 13.3 cSt @ 100c
  3. NOACK 8.5% (11% + 6%/2 = 8.5%)
  4. 526 ppm of Sb
  5. ~1100 ppm of Phosphourus
As you can see it has superior cold flow (40c) properties at the mild temperatures we see here in CA. I don't need a low winter rating so 10w, 15w and even SAE 30 are fine here.
These higher winter rating blends use thicker base oils so the flash points are typically higher than a 5w.
I'm staying with the low-ash versions because I'm also using this in my 2.8 Duramax equipped with emissions controls. The 10 TBN CI-4+ version of the 5w40 is excessive SA. I also would be changing the oil once a year anyway so I don't really need to exceed a 10k mile interval as I have two vehicles. CJ-4 is fine for me.
I would also like to mix the 15w40 with the SAE 30 next as that would be even a lower NOACK (6.5%) and higher flash point. That is the next thing I will try if the Oil Analysis results are better than what I've seen with TDT and D1 ESP CJ-4 versions.
I'm attaching a copy of the OAI report for your reference:
Looking forward to those results. Your anti-wear numbers, antimony and phosphorous together are 170% more than TDT's phosphorous. This along with the natural
esters your iron wear should drop. If your engines are in good shape I would reduce the Sb to 2 ounces unless the duramax needs it for some reason. The 30% natural esters help the lubricity due to their affinity for steel surfaces.

Last edited by James & Son; November 4th, 2018 at 09:13.
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Old November 12th, 2018, 16:46   #3489
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Why would the molybdenum values change so dramatically? That would concern me more than the sodium, I would think.
Good eye. I forgot that I had a quart of ESP Mobil 1 507 and dumped it in , so it skewed the reading a bit from dealer oil.

I bought dealer oil from the first oil change, now I've decided to go a different route but staying to the VW507 spec to see if it helps.
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