Add Oil Temperature Sensor to EA189?

JediJoker

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I know it would be possible to add an analog or standalone oil temperature sensor/gauge to the car, but I'd like to add an OE sensor so that I can measure and log the temperature via OBDII. I have VagCom and would feel comfortable recoding to accommodate the sensor, if possible. Can it be done? If so, how?

As an aside: a modern turbocharged engine without an oil temperature sensor? Why?!
 

Rob Mayercik

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Considering that VW dumbed down the temperature gauge into essentially an idiot light, does no oil temp sensor really come as a surprise?
 

Ol'Rattler

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No, they didn't dumb down the engine coolant sensor, It is accurately read by the ECU. They dumbed down the interface available to the driver. There is no engine oil temp sensor because it would be redundant and not understood by most drivers, anyway.

I would think for monitoring the turbo, an EGT gauge would be a lot more useful than an oil temp gauge which AFAIK a 2011 TDI has an EGT sensor that the ECU reads. Just monitor/log EGT's with VCDS and/or display/log EGT's with scan gauge or perhaps an ELM 327 bluetooth adapter and the Torque app App for your smart phone or tablet.

https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=elm327+interface&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
https://www.google.com/search?clien.......1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i22i30.l-eG0Bzjmqg
 
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JediJoker

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There is no engine oil temp sensor because it would be redundant and not understood by most drivers, anyway.
I'm coming from an A6 2.7T, so I'm used to having the oil temperature information in a non-damped gauge. VAG certainly seemed to think oil temperature was important and understandable in the noughties.

I would think for monitoring the turbo, an EGT gauge would be a lot more useful than an oil temp gauge which AFAIK a 2011 TDI has an EGT sensor that the ECU reads.
I'm not as interested in the temperature of the turbo as I am the oil temperature. I want to make sure I'm not shutting off the car when the oil is hot to avoid rapid cooling and coking within the turbo.
 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Well first I would not worry much about it, and it may not work like you think it does coming from the gasoline cars.

The Beetle TDIs already have one, so I suspect that all the other cars have the data in the ECU, there is just no gauge for its display.

Because I think the G266 thermal oil level sensor is the same on all the engines, if there even is one on the engine in question.

Look through the engine data and see if an oil temp value is listed somewhere. If it is, then you can already monitor it.

The Beetle owners can chime in on this, but generally the oil will be hottest after a regen at highway speeds.
 

JediJoker

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Well first I would not worry much about it, and it may not work like you think it does coming from the gasoline cars.
A turbo is a turbo, and engine oil is engine oil. These do not differ depending on fuel or ignition source in an ICE.

The Beetle TDIs already have one, so I suspect that all the other cars have the data in the ECU, there is just no gauge for its display.

Because I think the G266 thermal oil level sensor is the same on all the engines, if there even is one on the engine in question.

Look through the engine data and see if an oil temp value is listed somewhere. If it is, then you can already monitor it.
The EA189 2.0TDI engine has no oil temperature sensor. The EA288 does. Perhaps the Beetle TDIs use this engine?
 
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AndyBees

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In the scheme of things, where in the system would you want to monitor the oil temp? It will be hottest in the pan (or the return oil from the Turbo drain).

The coolant is circulated through the "oil cooler" which is fairly hot as that coolant flows directly out of the head at it's hottest point. I have a sensor on the coolant flange (across from the OE sensor) for a McNally coolant temp gauge. It always shows about 15 to 20f higher than the other places I monitor engine temps. (ALH in my Vanagon). That sensor is extremely sensitive as I can open the valve for coolant to flow through my heater core and can almost immediately see that temp gauge drop 5 to 10f for a few seconds.

I have a dash gauge to monitor the coolant in the return hose from the oil cooler. I suspect the oil there would be fairly close to the coolant temp as it re-inters the oil galleries in the block. The dash gauge (Westach) hangs around 185-190f... pretty much the same temp that my Scan Gauge's Coolant temp selection shows.

I have no suggestion on the use of VCDS to read any additional sensor... I'll leave that to those in the know!

Below, you can see the sensor in the coolant hose leaving the oil cooler returning to the engine.

 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
A turbo is a turbo, and engine oil is engine oil. These do not differ depending on fuel or ignition source in an ICE.



The EA189 2.0TDI engine has no oil temperature sensor. The EA288 does. Perhaps the Beetle TDIs use this engine?
You are incorrect.
 

JediJoker

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You are incorrect.
Which part was incorrect? That turbos are turbos and oil is oil? Or my assertion that the EA189 has no oil temperature sensor? Because turbos are turbos, oil is oil, and the EA189 (CJAA) does not have an oil temperature sensor. There is no oil temperature reading accessible through OBD or VCDS.

Or was it my suggestion that you may be confusing the EA189 and EA288? Because that was not a statement of fact, and my cursory research returned no definitive info on what Diesel engine was available in the Beetle TDI.
 

Mongler98

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pointless, completely pointless, you have a oil to water heat exchange, the heat of the oil from the turbo stock or upgraded will not make much difference if removed or not from the heat factor of the oil.
 

JediJoker

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pointless, completely pointless, you have a oil to water heat exchange, the heat of the oil from the turbo stock or upgraded will not make much difference if removed or not from the heat factor of the oil.
I'm not sure how an oil-to-water heat exchanger changes the nature of the problem of turning off the engine, and therefore stopping the flow of oil, while the oil is hot. If the oil isn't flowing, the heat exchanger isn't cooling down the oil.

My biggest concern is that I track this car. When you come off track, you generally have to park right away, but can't use the emergency brake because the brakes are hot and could fuse/seize. Without some other way to hold the car in place, that means putting it in gear and turning off the engine (manual transmission). If you're lucky, the paddock/grounds is/are sufficiently large to drive around a bit to let the oil cool while circulating, but not all tracks are so optimal. Wheel chocks are a solution, but I'm not sure if I need them because I don't have the data to tell me if I do. And even if I bought some, or were able to drive around, I wouldn't know when to stop idling or park and shut the car off. This is my only car and I don't relish the idea of winging it and either wasting fuel by erring on the side of caution or risking damage by not properly cooling the oil before shutdown.
 

AndyBees

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Mongler98, I assume you are "pointlessing" my set-up! It's only pointless if you never read all of my post.

Well, I fully understand what I have and how it works. I was only sharing what I've done as an alternative for the OP in the event his endeavor to use VCDS to monitor something that's not there doesn't pan out. And, my set-up does provide some comparative info about the engine temperature. I don't claim it is monitoring oil Temp, not at all. I actually believe once the engine is fully warmed-up, that the oil might cool the coolant......., there is a difference in the numbers.

I've mulled over this same question. Where is a good (best) place to monitor oil Temp? I'd like to add that one more gauge some day..... LOL (probably the oil pan)

And, as I stated, I have no clue as to whether VCDS can be prompted to monitor an add-on.
 

AndyBees

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Back several years ago when I was having starting issues with the ALH in my Vanagon, I installed two relays wired into the coolant temp senor circuits going to the ECU. One of them was normally open and the other one was normally closed.

Without all the details, the intent was to use a resistor on one circuit to fool the ECU into thinking the Temp was much colder during the Start mode. Once the ignition was rotated back to On from Start, one relay opened and the other one closed. Most of the time the ECU didn't like it ... prolly needed a different resistor.

Anyway, you may be able to set up two Coolant Temp Sensors, one for the coolant (OE set-up) and the other for the Oil temp. You could toggle back and forth between the two to obtain temps...

Thoughts?
 

JediJoker

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And, as I stated, I have no clue as to whether VCDS can be prompted to monitor an add-on.
Well, VCDS would be the vehicle (pun intended), or back door, for adding an OE sensor to the already existing package as fitted to the engine. OBD can monitor oil temperature, so I'm thinking it may be possible to "add" a sensor on the software side by recoding in VCDS. That just leaves the problem of sourcing a sensor and wiring, plus installation. I'm hoping there's actually a provision in the block for a sensor that's simply unused from the factory.

Anyway, you may be able to set up two Coolant Temp Sensors, one for the coolant (OE set-up) and the other for the Oil temp. You could toggle back and forth between the two to obtain temps...
That's certainly a novel approach/idea. I'll think about it, thanks!
 
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oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Oh, the newbs.... :rolleyes:

Well first, let me welcome you to our little club. Glad to see a new name. :)

So let me try and help you understand some things, ok?

First, the 2012-2014 Beetle TDI (as sold here) left the factory with the exact same CJAA engine as the same year Golf, Jetta, and Sportwagon.. And, perhaps for whimzy as to lend some fun to the nature of the vehicle, Volkswagen placed three "fun" little gauges atop the dashboard of these cars. A race timer, a boost gauge, and an oil temp gauge. How about that? Yes, a CJAA engine left the factory with a gauge already installed as you are asking about!

Now, I do not know all the details behind this, but knowing VAG how I do, I can jump to the conclusion that some of the necessary bits to make this gauge work are already in your car's systems floating around somewhere, or at least the ports for the pins for the wires are present, and in many cases the necessary module(s) to make it work have this already in them, it just needs a coding change to "unlock" it. Like adding fog lamps, for example. I merely pointed this out, so that you could perhaps take a quick peak into how the Beetle with the CJAA engine does this, because I am *pretty sure* it is not simply little German fairies prancing about the CAN bus guessing as to the oil temps. ;)

Second, you say "oil is oil", well that is not the case. Science, specifically chemistry, metallurgy, etc. will quickly prove... either by means of a UOA or even senses like you eyes and nose, that the oil inside of a diesel engine becomes VERY different than it does inside of a gasoline engine. This is why the specifications for oils gasoline vs. diesel are different, although many oils do carry both types, not all do, nor are all the specifications the same for all the diesel engines (or the gas, for that matter). So, oil is most certainly not all the same, even if it started the same. The CR TDIs require a specific 507.00 spec oil, which is NOT a VAG 502.00 gasoline spec oil like the VAG gas engines you are likely most familiar with require. So some oils do not even start out the same. Also, diesel engines do not sludge up inside like gas engines often do (especially many examples of VAG gas engines which have no tolerance for neglect). This is why you can take a 1/4 million mile TDI engine apart, and all its internal bits, every part, every surface, once you wipe the black oil away, will look like shiny new metal. The soot in suspension acts as a detergent. You'll never, ever, get the brown bronzing that the gas engines get inside, even on the most rigorous maintained examples. Coking up of a TDI's oil feed pipe to the turbo is unheard of.

Which, speaking of turbochargers, brings us to our second topic: "a turbo is a turbo". Nope, not quite...actually, in the confines of the VAG world, not much at all. VAG's gasoline engines use a wastegated water cooled turbocharger. The TDIs like yours and mine use a variable nozzle type with no water cooling. They are about as different from one another as two things could get and still be called a turbocharger. They operate differently, their stresses are different, and these stresses happen under different circumstances.

Now, add in the obvious VERY different combustion cycles of gasoline and diesel engines (unless you want to boast that THOSE are the same, because, you know, "hydrocarbons are hydrocarbons") you find that the operational conditions under which the motor oil is used can vary a little to a lot. In the case of the TDI, we have EGR systems. In the case of the CR TDI engines, such as the CJAA, we have TWO EGR systems... one of which actually feeds oxygen depleted air from the exhaust into the turbo pre-compressor. And the CR also has a DPF, which that little device alone makes a GIANT difference on what types of stresses the turbocharger must deal with, and could likely be blamed for most if not all of the all-too-common sudden and without warning turbocharger failures we see on the CR TDIs that didn't happen on the VE and PDs. Because those older engines did not have a DPF. No DPF, no regen cycle, no superheated exhaust blasting through the turbo at a reduced air flow rate (thanks to throttles on both the intake AND the exhaust) on the CRs.

So, I am not saying you should not pursue an oil temp gauge on your CJAA, in fact I was throwing you a bone on clues as to how to accomplish it in an OEM style fashion as you wanted by giving you a kernel of info about the Beetle, but merely suggesting that your reason as to why you feel the need for one may not be grounded in good info coming from a VAG gasoline turbo engine knowledge.

I hope that clears some of your misunderstanding up. And just so we're clear, I am no stranger to VAG gasoline turbo engines either. Here is a picture of my "office":

 

Mongler98

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I'm not sure how an oil-to-water heat exchanger changes the nature of the problem of turning off the engine, and therefore stopping the flow of oil, while the oil is hot. If the oil isn't flowing, the heat exchanger isn't cooling down the oil.

My biggest concern is that I track this car. When you come off track, you generally have to park right away, but can't use the emergency brake because the brakes are hot and could fuse/seize. Without some other way to hold the car in place, that means putting it in gear and turning off the engine (manual transmission). If you're lucky, the paddock/grounds is/are sufficiently large to drive around a bit to let the oil cool while circulating, but not all tracks are so optimal. Wheel chocks are a solution, but I'm not sure if I need them because I don't have the data to tell me if I do. And even if I bought some, or were able to drive around, I wouldn't know when to stop idling or park and shut the car off. This is my only car and I don't relish the idea of winging it and either wasting fuel by erring on the side of caution or risking damage by not properly cooling the oil before shutdown.
Because, cooking the oil in the turbo has NOTHING to do with the temp of the oil.
It does have everything to do with the temp of the turbo's metal cast housing and the heat soak that will happen when the engine is off.

2 solutions people have used for this that works the best,
Electrical oil pump, this is most commonly done with dry sump oil systems. The reason is to drain the pan of any extra oil before startup, to prime the internals of the engine with fresh oil before start up, to help cool down things like turbo oil lines etc.

The solution is to PUT AN EGT probe on your turbo, if you have not done this, you’re making a big mistake on an upgraded turbo. They are cheap enough insurance. Let the car idle until your EGT gauge says 425*F or less for more than 5 seconds.

Automatic Tran’s setups have an idle time based off EGT’s. Case in point my 2001 5.9 Cummins, when I turn it off by pulling out the key, it will continue to run idle until the EGTs run for 10 seconds lower than 450*F, that’s how I have it set. Peace of mind,
It’s hard to do this with a manual Trans but it can be done.

Measuring the temp of the oil is 100% useless info in all regards.
Oil viscosity is a factor of temperature. Look up the data for your oil you are using and the oil PSI should tell you exactly what "weight" it’s at and thus what temperature it is at.
 

turbobrick240

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I can see an oil temp gauge being useful on a car that sees track use. Not only to see when the oil is hot, but also to see when it is cold. Honestly though, egt will tell you a lot more about turbo temps than an oil temp sensor would. If your brakes are glowing red hot after a lap or two or several, I'd just assume a couple minutes of engine/turbo cool down is warranted.
 

Mongler98

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I can see an oil temp gauge being useful on a car that sees track use. Not only to see when the oil is hot, but also to see when it is cold. Honestly though, egt will tell you a lot more about turbo temps than an oil temp sensor would. If your brakes are glowing red hot after a lap or two or several, I'd just assume a couple minutes of engine/turbo cool down is warranted.
well i can tell you im not getting on the track until my coolant temps are warm enough, oil heats up WAY faster than your coolant temps.
Then again, (RACE CAR) gets all the gauges, even EMP (exhaust manifold pressure) the most useless of them all aside from tuning.
Then again, ALL your gauges are useless if your on a track, not one person i know of that does track or autox knows what teh gauges read when going though the cones or a corner.
I love my Auber gauges because i can set them all to an alarm of my choosing, lights or sound or both. i have all my EGT, boost, oil psi, Fuel PSI, Coolant PSI and Temp all wired into a big red LED on the A pillar and i used the (La Cucaracha) door alarm wired into them. its the ONLY way i know if anything is wrong. YOU KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE TRACK as far ahead as you can or the 2nd turn IN FRONT OF YOU, well at least you try to.
 

Ol'Rattler

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I'm coming from an A6 2.7T, so I'm used to having the oil temperature information in a non-damped gauge. VAG certainly seemed to think oil temperature was important and understandable in the noughties.
The oil temp gauge was marketing and VW left out the most important gauge (EGT) and gave you a worthless race timer and almost worthless oil temp gauge. Oil hammer explains it pretty well................
First, the 2012-2014 Beetle TDI (as sold here) left the factory with the exact same CJAA engine as the same year Golf, Jetta, and Sportwagon. And, perhaps for whimzy as to lend some fun to the nature of the vehicle, Volkswagen placed three "fun" little gauges atop the dashboard of these cars. A race timer, a boost gauge, and an oil temp gauge.
I'm not as interested in the temperature of the turbo as I am the oil temperature. I want to make sure I'm not shutting off the car when the oil is hot to avoid rapid cooling and coking within the turbo.
So what causes high oil temp at the turbo? Could it be high EGT's heat soaking the turbo maybe? Where would you put the temp sensor? If you put it at the oil filter it would not give you an accurate oil temp at the turbo. If you put it at the turbo drain line, it would get heat soaked by the exhaust manifold.
I can see an oil temp gauge being useful on a car that sees track use. Not only to see when the oil is hot, but also to see when it is cold. Honestly though, egt will tell you a lot more about turbo temps than an oil temp sensor would. If your brakes are glowing red hot after a lap or two or several, I'd just assume a couple minutes of engine/turbo cool down is warranted.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^:cool:
 

AndyBees

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Ol' Rattler, yes, that was my question early on, where do you locate the oil temp sensor?

Turbobrick240, I tend to agree with your gauges (mine too). The coolant coming out of the head almost immediately begins to warm-up when the engine is first fired-up. It is circulated to the "oil cooler" where during the warm-up it actually warms the oil... then cools the oil once the engine is fully warmed-up.
 

JediJoker

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That's news to me. I guess my gauges in multiple vehicles and equipment have just been wrong all along.
Turbobrick240, I tend to agree with your gauges (mine too). The coolant coming out of the head almost immediately begins to warm-up when the engine is first fired-up. It is circulated to the "oil cooler" where during the warm-up it actually warms the oil... then cools the oil once the engine is fully warmed-up.
Yeah, I'm in the same boat. In the A6, I'd see coolant reach operating range before oil. And I am most definitely concerned about trying to shove too-viscous, cold oil through the turbo.

First, the 2012-2014 Beetle TDI (as sold here) left the factory with the exact same CJAA engine as the same year Golf, Jetta, and Sportwagon.. And, perhaps for whimzy as to lend some fun to the nature of the vehicle, Volkswagen placed three "fun" little gauges atop the dashboard of these cars. A race timer, a boost gauge, and an oil temp gauge. How about that? Yes, a CJAA engine left the factory with a gauge already installed as you are asking about!

Now, I do not know all the details behind this, but knowing VAG how I do, I can jump to the conclusion that some of the necessary bits to make this gauge work are already in your car's systems floating around somewhere, or at least the ports for the pins for the wires are present, and in many cases the necessary module(s) to make it work have this already in them, it just needs a coding change to "unlock" it. Like adding fog lamps, for example. I merely pointed this out, so that you could perhaps take a quick peak into how the Beetle with the CJAA engine does this, because I am *pretty sure* it is not simply little German fairies prancing about the CAN bus guessing as to the oil temps. ;)

So, I am not saying you should not pursue an oil temp gauge on your CJAA, in fact I was throwing you a bone on clues as to how to accomplish it in an OEM style fashion as you wanted by giving you a kernel of info about the Beetle, but merely suggesting that your reason as to why you feel the need for one may not be grounded in good info coming from a VAG gasoline turbo engine knowledge.
That was unclear from your initial wording. Thank you for clearing it up. My SportWagen is a 2011, so from before the production range of the Beetle. It's possible that they changed the CJAA without changing the code, or that they tacked on a non-OBD/CAN sensor/gauge solution, or that there was always a provision for oil temperature that was unused before the Beetle. I'm hoping it's the last one, as I mentioned in a previous post (and alluded to in the OP).

Second, you say "oil is oil", well that is not the case. Science, specifically chemistry, metallurgy, etc. will quickly prove... either by means of a UOA or even senses like you eyes and nose, that the oil inside of a diesel engine becomes VERY different than it does inside of a gasoline engine. This is why the specifications for oils gasoline vs. diesel are different, although many oils do carry both types, not all do, nor are all the specifications the same for all the diesel engines (or the gas, for that matter). So, oil is most certainly not all the same, even if it started the same. The CR TDIs require a specific 507.00 spec oil, which is NOT a VAG 502.00 gasoline spec oil like the VAG gas engines you are likely most familiar with require. So some oils do not even start out the same. Also, diesel engines do not sludge up inside like gas engines often do (especially many examples of VAG gas engines which have no tolerance for neglect). This is why you can take a 1/4 million mile TDI engine apart, and all its internal bits, every part, every surface, once you wipe the black oil away, will look like shiny new metal. The soot in suspension acts as a detergent. You'll never, ever, get the brown bronzing that the gas engines get inside, even on the most rigorous maintained examples. Coking up of a TDI's oil feed pipe to the turbo is unheard of.

Which, speaking of turbochargers, brings us to our second topic: "a turbo is a turbo". Nope, not quite...actually, in the confines of the VAG world, not much at all. VAG's gasoline engines use a wastegated water cooled turbocharger. The TDIs like yours and mine use a variable nozzle type with no water cooling. They are about as different from one another as two things could get and still be called a turbocharger. They operate differently, their stresses are different, and these stresses happen under different circumstances.

Now, add in the obvious VERY different combustion cycles of gasoline and diesel engines (unless you want to boast that THOSE are the same, because, you know, "hydrocarbons are hydrocarbons") you find that the operational conditions under which the motor oil is used can vary a little to a lot. In the case of the TDI, we have EGR systems. In the case of the CR TDI engines, such as the CJAA, we have TWO EGR systems... one of which actually feeds oxygen depleted air from the exhaust into the turbo pre-compressor. And the CR also has a DPF, which that little device alone makes a GIANT difference on what types of stresses the turbocharger must deal with, and could likely be blamed for most if not all of the all-too-common sudden and without warning turbocharger failures we see on the CR TDIs that didn't happen on the VE and PDs. Because those older engines did not have a DPF. No DPF, no regen cycle, no superheated exhaust blasting through the turbo at a reduced air flow rate (thanks to throttles on both the intake AND the exhaust) on the CRs.
I wasn't suggesting all oils and turbos are exactly the same, merely that they operate using the same principles. While the composition of a synthetic 5W40, for example, may differ between one intended for gasoline and one intended for diesel, their viscosity behavior will be identical (within certain tolerances). All turbochargers are composed of an exhaust-driven impeller and air-fed compressor connected by a CHRA, regardless of geometry, bearing type, oiling type, cooling type, or other differences. So, knowing what I know about oil and turbos (considerably less than you, as you have demonstrated), I figured it was safe to assume that I would be dealing with similar issues regardless of fuel type, specific oil composition, or turbocharger design. Thank you for going into depth to explain why this isn't necessarily the case.
 
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Mongler98

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That's news to me. I guess my gauges in multiple vehicles and equipment have just been wrong all along.
correction, the temp may be lower than the coolant but the viscosity range is within its warm to hot range within just a few minutes of running. i would not race or WOT on a just warm engine, but thats the reason (as you should know) why its pointless to warm up your car for more than a few minutes in the cold.

My mistake in saying temp, i should have said operating range where the oil pump is not struggling to get oil pressure to things!

If you have a oil PSI gauge, thats ALL you need. unless racecar!
 

jmodge

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https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2018/10/patterson-elite-builds-ls-factory-showdown-champions/
http://www.pqiamerica.com/Testdescriptions/Noack.html
https://www.clarktesting.com/fuels-...MIqMjj77_W3gIV0brACh0rgwCiEAMYAiAAEgKxq_D_BwE

For the OP, some good reading that may bring you to further research and questions, such as weather you want to change your oil before and after racing (maybe you do already)
My point being, your choice of oil for specific applications may be more important than tracking temps. But at any rate, your point and concerns definately have basis, doing your best to preserve your engine.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Mongler is wrong as usual, no surprise there.

If you are worried about the health of the engine regarding the oil, the CR does well with EGR and DPF deletes.

A picture is worth 1000 words:



Same engine, same oil, same filter, same engine, same service interval, same driver.

Before and after delete. Notice the difference?
 

JediJoker

Active member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Location
Portland, OR, USA
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT
For the OP, some good reading that may bring you to further research and questions, such as weather you want to change your oil before and after racing (maybe you do already)
My point being, your choice of oil for specific applications may be more important than tracking temps.
To be clear, I don't actually race the car. I just take it to high performance driving events where the only driver I'm competing against is myself. Unfortunately, I don't have the money to change my oil before and after every event, so it's a game of compromise.

If you are worried about the health of the engine regarding the oil, the CR does well with EGR and DPF deletes.
I live in an area with smog regulations/checks, and even if I didn't, I wouldn't want to delete emissions equipment on a street car.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I completely understand.

Chances are, the best link you have at your disposal data wise is to monitor the clues about when a regen is happening, as that will directly crank the oil temps higher. EGTs go up, coolant temp goes up, idle speed goes up, fans come on high, etc.

Lots of info here about the things to monitor for that, lots of people here do just that.

Unscientific evidence, but based on many instances draining oil on these, the oil is hot and stinky moreso than the previous generations. So I do think it gets stressed more BUT the engine seems to not notice, and any detrimental effects this has on the turbocharger would really be hard to measure as I think cranking up the EGTs and slowing the relative air flow during a regen is by far more taxing to the turbocharger. This is why I think monitoring when a regen is happening and driving the car appropriately and making sure it finishes is probably the best course of action for you.

Not sure how I feel about putting the car on a track, given how regens work. I certainly wouldn't want to. Not just because of any extra wear and tear on the engine or the car, but because racing the clock can get a bit hot or miss when your engine may have ~15% less peak output if it decides it needs to perform a regen halfway around the track. ;)
 

JediJoker

Active member
Joined
Oct 2, 2018
Location
Portland, OR, USA
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT
Not sure how I feel about putting the car on a track, given how regens work. I certainly wouldn't want to. Not just because of any extra wear and tear on the engine or the car, but because racing the clock can get a bit hot or miss when your engine may have ~15% less peak output if it decides it needs to perform a regen halfway around the track. ;)
Is there a way to defeat regen, temporarily? So, turn it off for the duration of an event, then turn it back on after?
 
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