Rear wheel bearing?? Rear control arm bushing??

A big day for me....lca bushing changed(both captive nuts needed welding also) ball joints, and the r/h wheel bearing....along with an oil change, and new glow plugs(no 2 needed tapping, the damm thing picked up and damaged thread on the way out....) Lotsa grease and patience with the tap, and new one installed fine. *phew*.....The reason for the bearing was i had a noise, I thought I had a bad wheel bearing, but the noise is still there, so I kept looking after the first drive.

I noticed my right rear wheel had more *decamberitis* than the other side....My rear control arm bushing *big one* was not centered, and appears to have failed. The gap on the outboard side is larger than my thumb, the left side is equal, and gaps smaller than my pinkie..I may also have a failed rear bearing because of this, which I suspect is causing the noise, or it may just be tire scrubbing. My work is not done yet I guess, but aside from scrapping a tire, and a little noise, I am not worried about a sudden failure..I guess I am going to find out how to do a rear bushing...Anyone out there done this? I think the vdub got jealous of all the new suspension work on the old red girl, and is demanding a little attention.

With the tt bushings installed, its much tighter in the front end...the wheel bearing I removed showed no signs of distress(which in turn, distressed me...I suspected)...Just as a note, the wheel bearing outer race is a perfect support for removing the LCA bushing, and the inner race of the wheel bearing is the right size for pushing out the old LCA bushing. With my 99$ 12 ton press from princess auto, they were done in less than 5 minutes each...Once I figured out they were the right size....My welding skills thru a 5/8 inch hole with a stick welder are messy at best ...but, the nuts held, and the scrap dealer will be the next person to look at my handywork hopefully....

Craig

My front suspension is next on my todo list but I've been putting it off because I've not done it before. I am reading up on the procedure now and I'm wondering about any prevention before I break the not so captive nuts loose.

Hi Brian...I sprayed them several times with releasall before I started in hopes...but, both sides spun....no impact, gentle wrench (cause I was scared)....Its a crap shoot....feelin' lucky???

Craig

Its an easy fix with a welder...

craig01b said:

Its a crap shoot....feelin' lucky???

Click to expand...

Lol, that's exactly what it is. I got lucky when I was doing my suspension. Both captive nuts held on fine.

The rear axle bushings take a bit of patience. The how-to on the Vortex is very helpful. If you do a search here or on Vortex, I'm sure you'll find it.
Some people have modified the new bushings to make installation easier, I did not. I just used a threaded rod and some adapters to press the new bushings in. Sure makes a difference in ride and reduced noise with new bushings!

Thanks, yup, I found the thread in vortex....(thanks wingnut!!) Parts are ordered from Brian, and I guess that is my *to-do* next set of days off...Pounding out any rubber bushing requires patience...seems like between 3 cars, that is all I have been doing...

Craig

craig01b said:

Thanks, yup, I found the thread in vortex....(thanks wingnut!!) Parts are ordered from Brian, and I guess that is my *to-do* next set of days off...Pounding out any rubber bushing requires patience...seems like between 3 cars, that is all I have been doing...

Craig

Click to expand...

It might actually be easier to get the rear bushings out by cutting them out with a hack saw. That's what I did and it worked great.

Yup, was reading that also....having a 12 ton press in my garage is also a great help....next week will tell the tale...

Craig

If you cut the ear that hold the brake lines and leave the calipers on the car, you can take the entire axle out and work on it in peace, instead of trying to remove and press bushings under the car. Or blead the rear brakes.
Just cut a slit in the ear and bend it out of the way, than bend it back when you're done.

Thanks doc....Yeah, I plan to remove the piece to work on it...struggling under the car removing bushings ins't my idea of fun. Under the car with a welder trying to hit a nut thru a 5/8 hole was enough time laying under the car with sparks flying was enough for me.

Hey doc, no tdi in your future?

Craig

You have a red one for sale?
I am looking for one. I was kinda waiting till now, but now I am REALY looking for one. But all of them are SILVER

I like the silver ones, you never have to wash them...I will keep my eyes open...They pop into my wifes dealership once in a while.

C

Yeah but you never find them in the parking either
Thanks, let me know.

All done, I should of take pictures. I used a chain hoist to hold the rear axle up in the air to fit it into the press to push the new bushings in. Removal was a recip saw, cold chisel and a big hammer.

Its not a difficult job, just awkward. I also had a frozen bolt on one side, even with the air hammer I couldn't drive it out...more recip saw work. At least there is decent access.

No more clunkiness in the rear now....I still have a vibration which I cannot locate. Been searching in here, and cannot find a definitive answer??? Any suggestions?

Craig

In the back?
What about tires? Both bearing and this big bushing are known to create weird bolder spots on the tires and a lot of vibration even after replacement. Try swaping the spare tire on, or fronts to back.

That is my next task...damm work interferes with life...I am due for new tires soon anyways. I had hoped to make it thru the summer...oh well...

Craig