It helps greatly to have your display units in metric, as that's the default display VCDS and VW use anyway. So every reference on this site, with Ross-Tech's great knowledge base and in the repair manual, will all be in metric.
So with the live data, you have measured value block 1 displayed on one of your screenshots. In field 2 of that block is the injection quantity. On your OBDeleven deal it's displayed as gr/h. Every reference from Ross-Tech, this forum and the repair manual will have it in mg/st for example. And that is something I often DO have to adjust after a manual swap, as the fuel system is normally calibrated to inject a lot more fuel at idle with the automatic than what the manual trans actually needs, so I commonly run into slow down shudder issues post-swap as the engine warms up because the way the pump is calibrated, it's actually bumping up against the bare minimum of how little fuel it can accurately inject to maintain the idle speed the ECU wants to see... A hammer mod is required typically to correct it, and use that measured value block 1, field 2 to help confirm that you're in the correct range.
So, with that out of the way, originally OBDeleven did a poor job with basic settings on rotary pump cars. I informed the developers of this and they seemed to have improved the situation with a more recent update, however other basic settings still are not working correctly on rotary pump cars, so proper diagnosis is a little difficult to do with certain functions still.
With that in mind, the way you would check the pump base timing, as outlined in the repair manual, is to login to the engine computer, select basic settings, enter 000.
This will bring up the display with 10 values, basically the same as you displayed with the live data block 0, except when you do that block in basic settings, the glow plug light will flash and it will deactivate the timing advance solenoid inside the injection pump. By doing this, you can see where the pump's base mechanical timing is and make a judgement on if it needs to be adjusted or not.
The second field from the top is the raw, digital reading of what the pump timing is (or more accurately, when the injector #3 needle lift sensor pops in relation to crank position). You are supposed to plot that timing number on a chart found in the repair manual, with the second value found in field 9, which is fuel temp in raw digital format.
What I normally do is simply aim for that field 2 number to be anywhere between 55-70 for the most part. At some temps, low 40s numbers are in spec, but I tend to like to keep it on the advanced side of spec, so my goal is always to have field two reading between 55 and 70 to keep it where I like it to be. A hair over 70 is fine, too, realistically.
But, I'm still not confident that the basic settings work 100% right still. The blink rate of the glow plug light is a little off, I've had a couple cars earlier when doing basic setting 0, that field 2 timing number would jump all over the place. The last couple cars I've checked, it's been much steadier, but I have not yet compared it to what VCDS would display to verify accuracy.
Lastly, if you do any other basic settings for diagnostic purposes (I commonly use 03, 04 and 011 on rotary pump cars for diagnostics as well) I have noticed erratic behavior with OBDeleven with those as well. In basic settings 011 for example, with the engine at idle, the computer will cycle the N75 that controls the vacuum supply to the turbo's actuator full on to full off. I can watch the turbo actuator to verify it goes through its whole range of movement or even just measure the vacuum coming out of the N75 to verify it does in fact go from system vacuum (ideally 25" mg or more) when "on" to 0 vacuum when "off".
When doing that basic setting with VCDS, it will be very stable, very predictable, ever several seconds cycling between on and off and back again. When I do this same test with OBDeleven, it stays on for quite awhile, then for half a second switches to off before immediately switching back to the on position for quite awhile. It switches to off so fast, the N75 doesn't even complete purging the vacuum!
So yeah, definitely not ideal quite yet. It seems to work better on PDs and later cars, but the glow plug flash rate on those is still a little off signaling to me that there's still a communication timing issue of some kind happening.
I want to make a video of the issues and include a comparison of how each of those functions work with VCDS compared to OBDeleven and send it to OBDeleven's developers. They have a very promising product that should be as capable as VCDS, but it's not perfect yet. So, one can only hope that by providing feedback with any issues that eventually they'll get it sorted and it will be a genuine competitor for capability at a fraction of the price.
I definitely won't be giving up my VCDS cable anytime soon... Hell, I might even buy a backup when I have the extra funds just because I do still rely on it so heavily, that and I appreciate the many years worth of contributions and research Ross-tech has done for us and how user-friendly they've managed to make their product. Definitely deserves support from someone like me.
So, for me at this point, OBDEleven is nice for when I'm doing a hammer mod and it's handy to have a wireless communication so I don't have to continually run back to the car to get the readings.
It's also nice for doing transmission services where you need monitor transmission temperature in the scantool to get the fluid level just so... And I've got a hoist where I can stand up underneath the car while doing the job, so it's a little less than practical to have a corded device in the car during such a procedure. So, it's nice to give me that capability for a couple little jobs, but it is not anywhere near as user-friendly as VCDS at this point. Promising, but Ross-Tech has got them beat and for a professional, the extra money is well worth it for how much easier it makes our jobs.