LNXGUY
Top Post Dawg
All you need for 140/260 on a PD is a stage II tune.. Nozzles are way down the list.
2006 Jetta TDI (BRM) 5 Speed Build
- Thread starter DirtyD23
- Start date
slamhouse
Veteran Member
Nozzles are rather expensive for a PD. 1200$ for nozzles with balance and reseals...
Barnitz
Veteran Member
My advise is to leave the trans alone for now. The stock 5-speed is pretty stout. Upgrade the clutch and flywheel.
Replace the cam with a Stage II when the OEM one fails.
A Stage II tune will push the OEM turbo to it's limits - and beyond if you would like. Any bolt on turbos can be mostly supported with stock injectors although they are much better with PD150 injectors.
Upgrade your clutch and flywheel, Check the cam for wear and upgrade it if needed, get it tuned stage II and drive it for awhile. Turbo and injectors would be the next step but that's big $$.
Replace the cam with a Stage II when the OEM one fails.
A Stage II tune will push the OEM turbo to it's limits - and beyond if you would like. Any bolt on turbos can be mostly supported with stock injectors although they are much better with PD150 injectors.
Upgrade your clutch and flywheel, Check the cam for wear and upgrade it if needed, get it tuned stage II and drive it for awhile. Turbo and injectors would be the next step but that's big $$.
DirtyD23
Member
Reviving this build
Okay, so it has been a few years since I posted. There has not been much change to the car. I spent a few years overseas with the army and just really haven't had the time to spend on a project. This winter, however, my car slid off the road and I ended up with some decent front passenger side damage, but thankfully nothing mechanical. So now that the weather is getting warmer and I am home for the foreseeable future I would like to retire my truck until winter to save on fuel again. Plus it's just a lot more fun to drive. However, after tearing apart the whole front clip to repair the body damage I exposed a lot of the engine and tossed around the idea of my original build plans seeing how easy it would be to get to everything in its current state. I took some of your advice and got a tune and drove it for a while but now I want a little more out of it. I figure since its torn apart and not going anywhere I might as well replace hoses and things prone to failure while I'm at it.
The car currently has:
Stage 2 colt Cam
Malone stage 1.5
SBC stage 2 endurance clutch
(All the above done by Digi Sport in Dallas-Great experience)
mufflerectomy
upgraded brakes
HPA dogbone mount
My ideas:
Darkside GTB1749V
Darkside down pipe
BEW injectors with 1043s or 783s from DBW (still debating between the 2)
Wavetrac (I know some of you will say pelequin but the vehicle sees plenty of ice and snow)
snow performance water/meth kit
Malone will more than likely be doing the tuning again
The car's condition mechanically seems decent for a mostly stock car at 170k besides a hissing EGR cooler and some decent oil consumption .85qts/1000 miles. No discernable drivability issues, no hesitation and only smokes under WOT
The EGR cooler will be replaced during all of this. Yes, a lot of people say delete the EGR but due to the cold weather, I am hesitant on that. Malone has already tuned the Dynamic EGR for me.
The oil consumption I haven't been able to figure out. Dealer performed a leak down and compression test. Leak down was less than 5% on all cyl but compression was 26-30 bar which seems low to me. IC pipe had a decent amount of oil in it. Dealer recommended I change the rings but I don't want to get that involved until I rule out everything else.
I've done a little research here and come up with a few things
-PCV-although the dealer said that the PCV system is working fine.
-rings- whether bad or just all gummed up
-turbo- obviously getting replaced
I also will be doing a timing belt change
So any ideas on the build or whether I should look into replacing the rings would be great. Also, any other items that I should address as far as reliability going forward due to the age/mileage or the added power.
e.g. rebuild the head, arp head studs and fasteners for increased the power
Okay, so it has been a few years since I posted. There has not been much change to the car. I spent a few years overseas with the army and just really haven't had the time to spend on a project. This winter, however, my car slid off the road and I ended up with some decent front passenger side damage, but thankfully nothing mechanical. So now that the weather is getting warmer and I am home for the foreseeable future I would like to retire my truck until winter to save on fuel again. Plus it's just a lot more fun to drive. However, after tearing apart the whole front clip to repair the body damage I exposed a lot of the engine and tossed around the idea of my original build plans seeing how easy it would be to get to everything in its current state. I took some of your advice and got a tune and drove it for a while but now I want a little more out of it. I figure since its torn apart and not going anywhere I might as well replace hoses and things prone to failure while I'm at it.
The car currently has:
Stage 2 colt Cam
Malone stage 1.5
SBC stage 2 endurance clutch
(All the above done by Digi Sport in Dallas-Great experience)
mufflerectomy
upgraded brakes
HPA dogbone mount
My ideas:
Darkside GTB1749V
Darkside down pipe
BEW injectors with 1043s or 783s from DBW (still debating between the 2)
Wavetrac (I know some of you will say pelequin but the vehicle sees plenty of ice and snow)
snow performance water/meth kit
Malone will more than likely be doing the tuning again
The car's condition mechanically seems decent for a mostly stock car at 170k besides a hissing EGR cooler and some decent oil consumption .85qts/1000 miles. No discernable drivability issues, no hesitation and only smokes under WOT
The EGR cooler will be replaced during all of this. Yes, a lot of people say delete the EGR but due to the cold weather, I am hesitant on that. Malone has already tuned the Dynamic EGR for me.
The oil consumption I haven't been able to figure out. Dealer performed a leak down and compression test. Leak down was less than 5% on all cyl but compression was 26-30 bar which seems low to me. IC pipe had a decent amount of oil in it. Dealer recommended I change the rings but I don't want to get that involved until I rule out everything else.
I've done a little research here and come up with a few things
-PCV-although the dealer said that the PCV system is working fine.
-rings- whether bad or just all gummed up
-turbo- obviously getting replaced
I also will be doing a timing belt change
So any ideas on the build or whether I should look into replacing the rings would be great. Also, any other items that I should address as far as reliability going forward due to the age/mileage or the added power.
e.g. rebuild the head, arp head studs and fasteners for increased the power
crazyrunner33
Veteran Member
Good ideas on the build. I'd recommend saving some coin and sticking with PD150 head bolts instead of the APR, they're significantly cheaper and will hold the power just fine. I'm doing a similar build with the DSG, but I'm sticking with a standard cam from IDParts and using PD150 injectors instead of BEW injectors with upgraded nozzles. I'll report back once I install them, I'm currently on Malone Stage 2 with the factory turbo.
DirtyD23
Member
I already picked up some ARPs from RyanP @ darkside.
I thought about going with the pd150s but I'm worried that I will be at their limit with this build and the injection duration will be quite long. The BEWs also have an 8mm design vs the 7.5mm but the pd150s would save a bit. I just happened to come across a set of BEWs dirt cheap out of a wrecked car.
crazyrunner33 - Are you working on your golf or a BRM DSG?
I thought about going with the pd150s but I'm worried that I will be at their limit with this build and the injection duration will be quite long. The BEWs also have an 8mm design vs the 7.5mm but the pd150s would save a bit. I just happened to come across a set of BEWs dirt cheap out of a wrecked car.
crazyrunner33 - Are you working on your golf or a BRM DSG?
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TDIMeister
Phd of TDIClub Enthusiast, Moderator at Large
Definitely 783s instead of 1043 on BEW bodies.
Your turbo choice will be constrained at the lower-end of your target power.
Your turbo choice will be constrained at the lower-end of your target power.
Drivbiwire
Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
- Joined
- Oct 13, 1998
- Location
- Boise, Idaho
- TDI
- 2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
200+hp, R783's.
PD150's are just gonna make Extreme EGT's and run out of solenoid switch time.
1043's are gonna start running out of EGT margin at or around 190hp, and EGT's are gonna start climbing.
The R783 will give you a very large injection window, run at about 50% of the switch times of a 1043.
The other issue with the PD150, is the restriction channels are going to choke off flow above the 160hp range, and that longer injection window is why these should only be used where 150-160hp is your intended maximum.
BEW pumps are the highest flow pump you can't get for a PD, no restriction channels, and 8.0mm pumps.
DirtyD23
Member
Drivbiwire/TDIMeister- Thank you for clarifying.
hymato
Veteran Member
What about a Stage 2 cam,PD150 turbo, stage 2 tune, and stock injectors
DirtyD23
Member
I already have a colt cam Stage 2 billet cam and a stage 1.5 tune from Malone.
The GTB1749V that Darkside sells is the cheapest option I've found that is bolt on. $900 vs $760
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....-pd140-bmm-gtb1749v-200bhp-turbo-upgrade.html
(I'm only looking for "bolt-on" parts that are proven reliable)
I also want to use the larger injectors to shorten the injection duration and keep the EGTs down.
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DirtyD23
Member
Im already pretty set on the hardware portion of the build unless someone can come up with a better bolt on turbo upgrade option that is around the same price range. I'm not looking to venture into fabricating custom manifolds and I would like to have the car back together at some point this summer.
Im currently trying to decide if it worth the time to redo the rings and the head. The cam was redone 60k ago but idk what condition the valve springs and guides are in, as I had the work done.
I haven't pulled the head off to look at the bores to see their condition.
The oil consumption and compression makes me wonder if it wouldn't be worth the time to redo the rings and possibly hone the cylinders.
Im currently trying to decide if it worth the time to redo the rings and the head. The cam was redone 60k ago but idk what condition the valve springs and guides are in, as I had the work done.
I haven't pulled the head off to look at the bores to see their condition.
The oil consumption and compression makes me wonder if it wouldn't be worth the time to redo the rings and possibly hone the cylinders.
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DirtyD23
Member
I started a new thread in the MKV specific forum about the excessive oil consumption and whether or not to do the rings and head.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=477915
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=477915
hymato
Veteran Member
i bought a used BRM jetta with a blown head gasket to replace my 2010 jetta. The cam was bad, the valve guides were shot, someone tried to rehone the block when they did the head so now im re honeing the block decking the head. Heads rebuilt with Stage 2 cam. I got the PD150 turbo, and of course a new DMF. Im hoping to be good for a few hundred thousand miles.