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Old February 5th, 2017, 03:41   #91
Macradiators.com
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Putting 3mm oversize valves is almost impossible because you have to increase valve seats a lot and there is not much room left. Sounds too optimistic to be true.

You might wanna check dimensions you offered above because are totally wrong
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Old February 6th, 2017, 04:44   #92
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Hi shortysclimbin
Thanks for the post. Many of the issues we are aware of and have already sorted.
Gearbox supports will be done when I eventually get around to switching to a lower mileage gearbox and fit an LSD.

I have not had swirl flaps since originally fitting the gtb kit. Had no issues without them.

Hopefully starting the teardown soon, just finalising some parts.
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Old February 6th, 2017, 05:11   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortysclimbin View Post
Two years ago I ran into the same issues. I actually sold my performance cams, ported, head, dual valve springs, and custom valves last year to a guy in the usa.

Some helpful info maybe:

1) the v6 3.0l TDI CR motors have valves that are about 3mm larger in diameter than oem and same dimensions. they are also sodium filled! I'd suggest running those and just changing the slope angle and valve seat angles on them to fit your needs.

2) the oem intake valve ports split the air and have a very very aggressive reflow swirl built into one of the intakes for low RPM swirl and emissions. Removal of that will drastically help higher RPM but may mean more emissions on lower RPMs. Since you have a good tuner who isn't minding to tinker with new things, (unlike our USA tuners). I'd suggest you keep the intake flapper valves and use the controls to flow more at lower RPM through the single swirl valves that are like the MK4 VE heads. Those intake tracks I'd suggest to only clean them up and worry about the valve seat angles at first! By doing this you will drive a large volume of air at lower rpm to the swirl ports and you can take the old swirl ports and create them into straight feed valves like gas cars for higher RPM. Watch your flow ratios though to make sure you don't kill the swirl and 80% intake to exhaust flow ratio.

3) The cams which have been tested as drop in were used on stock heads. I suspect the flow ports in the head design are actually the limiting factors. Cams on top of a good port job may drastically increase your power potential at higher rpm if you can keep your fuel pressures up in the rail.

4) with the CP3 we were still seeing some fuel rail pressure drops. This was resolved by replacing the stock engine bay electric fuel pump with a heavy duty diesel one that the flows 3 times more pressure.

5) watch that transmission 4/5 gear spread. at the ~390ftlb these manuals have a tendency to walk the gears apart on the 02S transmissions. you might want to get that brace in there if it isn't there already.
Id be happy to hear valve pn and engine code from this v6 engine with 3mm bigger valves. Last time I checked valves where larger, but less than one mm
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Dyno'd area, Old VNT20 setup dyno'd 192whp
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Old February 6th, 2017, 09:48   #94
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Exactly Ruben, 0.7mm more , not worth the trouble i think.
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Old February 19th, 2017, 07:20   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortysclimbin View Post
Two years ago I ran into the same issues. I actually sold my performance cams, ported, head, dual valve springs, and custom valves last year to a guy in the usa.

Some helpful info maybe:

1) the v6 3.0l TDI CR motors have valves that are about 3mm larger in diameter than oem and same dimensions. they are also sodium filled! I'd suggest running those and just changing the slope angle and valve seat angles on them to fit your needs.

2) the oem intake valve ports split the air and have a very very aggressive reflow swirl built into one of the intakes for low RPM swirl and emissions. Removal of that will drastically help higher RPM but may mean more emissions on lower RPMs. Since you have a good tuner who isn't minding to tinker with new things, (unlike our USA tuners). I'd suggest you keep the intake flapper valves and use the controls to flow more at lower RPM through the single swirl valves that are like the MK4 VE heads. Those intake tracks I'd suggest to only clean them up and worry about the valve seat angles at first! By doing this you will drive a large volume of air at lower rpm to the swirl ports and you can take the old swirl ports and create them into straight feed valves like gas cars for higher RPM. Watch your flow ratios though to make sure you don't kill the swirl and 80% intake to exhaust flow ratio.

3) The cams which have been tested as drop in were used on stock heads. I suspect the flow ports in the head design are actually the limiting factors. Cams on top of a good port job may drastically increase your power potential at higher rpm if you can keep your fuel pressures up in the rail.

4) with the CP3 we were still seeing some fuel rail pressure drops. This was resolved by replacing the stock engine bay electric fuel pump with a heavy duty diesel one that the flows 3 times more pressure.

5) watch that transmission 4/5 gear spread. at the ~390ftlb these manuals have a tendency to walk the gears apart on the 02S transmissions. you might want to get that brace in there if it isn't there already.
You kept the auxiliary fuel pump with the cp3? I don't know if that was a good idea.
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Old February 19th, 2017, 09:40   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobrick240 View Post
You kept the auxiliary fuel pump with the cp3? I don't know if that was a good idea.
I was wondering the same thing...
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Old February 19th, 2017, 11:26   #98
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depends one th eflavour of cp3. with some it is not adviseable to run positive pressure to fuel inlet, and definately not in the amount that a stock cp4 liftpump provides.

reason for this that some cp3 have the case pressure relief back to inlet, and some to the outlet. if its to the inlet, the case pressure will rise 1:1 with feed pressure and this will make the metering valve flow very different as what the will believe it flows.
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Dyno'd area, Old VNT20 setup dyno'd 192whp
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Old April 10th, 2017, 03:12   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BleachedBora View Post
Love the new cluster, excellent build!
-BB
Thanks for checking in

Finishing the rebuild of my CR170 with ported head. Many thanks as always to Bobby.
I would literally be stuck without him, and it's so nice to have someone who actively wants you to push things further and works to such a high and consistent quality.

Here is the original head.

I've owned it since 100k miles, and been running 2.4 bar boost and for around 50k. Lots of track and drag use.

Been ran on Millers 5w40 or 10w50 CFS NT and changed at least every 10k.

It's now sitting on 180k miles

20170409_204248 by Fat Bear Photography, on Flickr


Valves, no build up to speak of.

20170409_204300 by Fat Bear Photography, on Flickr

Very happy to see the condition of the original head. These are good solid engines.

I will be able to share further news with you all soon.
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Last edited by xjay1337; April 10th, 2017 at 07:10.
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Old April 16th, 2017, 02:17   #100
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We have finished the rebuild of the engine and we are very happy with the results.

2017-04-16_09-46-10 by Fat Bear Photography, on Flickr

IMG_20170415_212828_762 by Fat Bear Photography, on Flickr

This has been an awful lot of work which without Bobby would not have been possible.
We have many custom fabricated parts for this build.
BSR ported head, bsr custom valve springs, bsr cp3 pump, custom injectors, all engine software and engine build done by Bobby.

We are very very happy with this result. EGTs under 900 at WOT. Still making over 300bhp at 5200rpm.
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Old April 16th, 2017, 04:56   #101
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Looking awesome! Will you take it to the strip?

Any reason why you didnt move battery to the trunk? Would be first I would do for a track car
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Dyno'd area, Old VNT20 setup dyno'd 192whp
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Old April 16th, 2017, 09:41   #102
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Very nice results! What was the engine like after 180k Pistons/bores etc?
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Old April 16th, 2017, 15:52   #103
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Wow! Those are some fantastic results
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Old April 18th, 2017, 02:40   #104
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Looking good Jay
1/4 mile should be interesting
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Old April 18th, 2017, 04:00   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rub87 View Post
Looking awesome! Will you take it to the strip?

Any reason why you didnt move battery to the trunk? Would be first I would do for a track car
Thanks you sir

We are going to the strip this weekend as long as weather is good.
(So far it is).

Battery relocation is something I may look into now as I have another car as a daily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mickyTDI View Post
Very nice results! What was the engine like after 180k Pistons/bores etc?

Thanks
Engine was fine, very good condition. A few parts had started to show their age (aux belt tensioner etc) but mechanically good. I had money aside to buy a low mileage engine but it was not needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ATR View Post
Wow! Those are some fantastic results
Thank you!! We are very happy. I still can't believe how scary it is when it comes on boost lol.
Many thanks for following along
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