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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +)

VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +) Discussions area for the Mk7 (2015+) Golf and Golf Wagon TDIs based on the MQB (Modularer Querbaukasten) platform.

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Old October 1st, 2019, 22:55   #1
Nuje
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Default Retrofitting ACC to Mk7 TDI

In my never-ending (it would seem) quest to upgrade as many systems as possible on my car, and so I don't get lulled into treating the cruise control in my car the same as my wife's A3 that has ACC and lane assist (oh, who are we kidding; of course, it's just to mess around and figure stuff out), I've dug into retrofitting adaptive cruise control into my 2015 Mk7 Canadian Highline (SEL) GSW.

What got me started on this was the fact that my car had front radar ("Front Assist") already installed in the bumper, so maybe with some coding and the proper buttons on my steering wheel, I'd get ACC.

(Stop laughing; of course it wasn't going to be that easy).

Turns out, the "flat" radar (medium range radar - MRR) that came on my car is all-but-impossible to get working as an ACC sensor, but really early Mk7 (like 2013-2014 Euros) came with a more expensive radar (long-range radar - LRR) that is bulb-shaped (same as on my wife's A3).

Swapping in the new LRR is easy enough (two 10mm bolts; same connector), but the bigger issue is that a new ABS module is required - one that can be coded to actively control the brakes (I would assume).

And that new ABS module has a 46-pin connector, not the 38-pin connector that is in my car.
And on top of that, one can't even simply move the wires/pins from my old 38-pin connector to a new 46-pin connector (which is cheap enough - like $30), because the pins are shaped differently.

So - the list of parts now looks like this:
  • LRR (round radar) - found for $150 on eBay (component protection will need to be removed)
  • rear wheel ABS sensors (part#: WHT003864A) - ~$90ea for OEM; $15 from China)
  • ABS module (with 46pins) part # recommended to me was 3Q0 907 379 AB- similar price point of ~$150 (if you can get the wiring pigtail for the ABS module, GRAB THAT!)
  • Assuming not, a new 46-pin connector (part # 4M0 998 046) - $30
  • 20 wires have to swap over, so you need 10 repair wires - part number 000 979 046E ($7each, or if you're in Canada, $30 each (?!!?)
    Cheaper alternative here would be to just by the connector, sans repair wire; those can be had for ~$1ea - eBay.
  • Steering wheel with ACC buttons (I already had those as they came with a MFSW I'd purchased from Europe for the paddle shifters (Canadian models did not come with paddle shifters)

References:
mqb.pl - this guy made me think this was possible; not quite enough detail, though, to allow me to realize how involved this was going to be
Ross-tech retrofit thread
(I also have a thread there - same username - where I'm asking questions figuring all of this out)
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His ride: 2015 GSW SEL TDI with MIB2, Active Info Display, DSG tune
Her ride: 2016 A3 e-tron

His other ride: 2015 Giant Propel SL Di2

Last edited by Nuje; October 2nd, 2019 at 00:00.
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Old October 1st, 2019, 23:05   #2
Nuje
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So, the process as best I can figure right now is as follows:
  • Install the round radar (easy-peasy - done it a couple times already); get CP removed by dealer
  • Swap the bezel / ACC buttons onto my existing MFSW (having done this a few times now, I have this down to ~20minutes)
  • Install the rear wheel ABS sensors (at this point, you might have to do some re-coding of Module 03 - ABS with VCDS; on my car, it was changing Byte26 from "00" to "50" - YMMV)
  • Wire up the new connector with the new pins (this is the step I'm holding at right now as NFW I was going to pay $300 for 10 repair wires; awaiting shipment from Aaron and the boys at CascadeGerman)
  • Get at the ABS module in the car, disconnect the harness and brake lines; out with the old, in with the new
  • Probably cut the wires, splice them into the repair wires (Ross-tech forum user "downtime" has a spreadsheet detailing which wire from "old" goes to which slot in "new").
  • Connect everything back together, follow the coding instructions from XiGaCo's pdf)
  • Find a good deity to say a quick prayer too...and fire it up.
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Her ride: 2016 A3 e-tron

His other ride: 2015 Giant Propel SL Di2
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Old October 1st, 2019, 23:23   #3
JM Popaleetus
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The flat radar works up to 160KMH (99MPH). The round radar is good for 210KMH (130MPH). Source here.

Frankly, there is no way in hell I’d ever use ACC at those speeds. So your stock radar should work fine.

Here is a thread if you want to get real adventurous and install Lane Keeping Assist: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46696

And here is a guy that can enable ACC remotely: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365
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2015 VW Golf TDI SEL (DSG, Lighting and Driver Assistance Packages, Tornado Red/Titan Black)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD Classic (Duramax LBZ, SLT, Extended Cab, Summit White/Ebony)
2013 VW Passat TDI SEL Premium Buyback
2010 VW Jetta TDI Buyback

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Old October 2nd, 2019, 00:11   #4
Nuje
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM Popaleetus View Post
And here is a guy that can enable ACC remotely: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49365
Pretty sure that his capabilities are to remove CP and (somehow) get around the fact that you can't buy FeC's for cars to retrofit something like ACC with the flat radar; if your VIN didn't come spec'd with ACC, the (flat) MRR cannot be added after the fact by the dealer. doctor (the user at golfmk7.com who says he's done it) seems to have figured out a way around it, though. But it's certainly not widespread. The cost he quoted to me was around 500.

With all of that said, I gotta think that we'd still need a new ABS module - one that has the electrical / mechanical capabilities to control speed by activating the rear brakes without your foot anywhere near the brake pedal.
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Her ride: 2016 A3 e-tron

His other ride: 2015 Giant Propel SL Di2
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Old October 2nd, 2019, 05:51   #5
740GLE
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sounds like after all this work you'll need to zone out with ACC on the highway.
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Old October 11th, 2019, 18:41   #6
Nuje
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Ran into a bit of a snag with the wiring; before I start cutting into wires (literally), I'm trying to suss out whether or not the fact that I don't have wires for a "G608 - Vacuum Sensor" in my current wiring harness is going to bit me.
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Old October 29th, 2019, 17:01   #7
Nuje
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Just to update on the process: Most importantly, it is done. And WORKS!!
I probably came closer to punting on this endeavour than on any previous repair or retrofit, but in the end (as my wife always points out to me when I come into the house and say, "Well, it's totally f***ed now"), I figured it out along with the help of a few very kind and generous folks over on the Ross-tech forums.

Parts list (as outlined in first post, with a couple of updates):
  • LRR (round radar) - found for $150 on eBay (component protection will need to be removed by dealer; figure at least an hour for that, maybe 1.5hrs)
  • rear wheel ABS sensors (part#: WHT003864A) - ~$90ea for OEM; $15 from China)
  • ABS module (with 46pins) part # recommended to me was 3Q0 907 379 AB- similar price point of ~$150 (if you can get the wiring pigtail for the ABS module, GRAB THAT!)
  • Assuming not, a new 46-pin connector (part # 4M0 998 046) - $30
  • 15 wires have to swap over; 12 of them are 0.5mm (three are actually 0.35mm, but you use the same repair wire) so you need 6 repair wires - part number 000 979 046E ($7each, or if you're in Canada, $30 each (?!!?)
  • Three of the wires moving over are larger (2 x 4.0mm and one 2.5mm), and you also need to fill an additional ground spot in the wiring harness, so you need a 4.0mm repair wire (000 979 308 E) - one end will be for the extra ground, the other will be to replace the female end of the 2.5mm wire; the third "large" wire (red/yellow) can simply be moved without alteration
  • Steering wheel with ACC buttons (I already had those as they came with a MFSW I'd purchased from Europe for the paddle shifters (Canadian models did not come with paddle shifters)
  • 1.5-2.0L of brake fluid. Remember that the Mk7 specs the DOT4 "LV" (low viscosity). I went with OEM from dealer just to be sure I got the right stuff
  1. Prevent LOTS of hydraulic fluid from oozing out: Set something to press the brake pedal (a 2x4 jammed between seat and pedal works), open the LR and LF bleed screws, press the brake pedal at least another 60mm, then close the LR and LF bleed screws; leave the brake pedal in that position (i.e., do not remove the 2x4 or whatever you have holding the pedal down)
  2. Disconnect negative terminal of battery
  3. Lift up the front end and take off the front wheels (you don't strictly need to, but it'll make life so much easier).
  4. If you at all can, lift up the rear of the car, too, just to give yourself easier access to everything because...
  5. ...you have to disconnect the front exhaust pipe, part of which involves undoing an exhaust clamp that's about ⅔ of the way to the back of the car.
  6. Front exhaust pipe comes off fairly easily: Two 16mm nuts on that exhaust clamp; two 13mm bolts on the front exhaust hanger, one 5mm bolt that secures a T-bolt-type clamp which attaches the front exhaust pipe to the DPF outlet.
  7. Slide the exhaust pipe back a bit. You need to do all of this because the DPF is blocking any chance of getting the ABS module out through the top of the engine
  8. Disconnect the ABS connector / wire harness, there's plenty of wire there to pull it top-side out of the way
  9. Remove ABS pump: This is where things start to get ugly. With the DPF, there's about 2.5" of clearance to get your and between the upper cowling and DPF to get at the ABS pump. If you've got Popeye-esque forearms, you might want to look for a scrawny assistant to help with this.

    You also need a short 11mm open-end wrenches, as the "normal" length one I have didn't have enough space to move in that tight space.
    Undo the six hydraulic lines - 11mm wrench - and cap them. Two of the lines are M10x1.0; the other four are M12. Bentley says to label them, but I think you'd have a hard time mixing them up.
  10. The ABS pump just sits on three triangularly-positioned knobbed "posts"; the pump is attached to a plastic mounting bracket that has three rubber "holes"; it just pulls straight up (but keep in mind that you have six steel hydraulic lines fighting you, so it's not quite that easy; and oh - "do not bend the hydraulic lines" says the manual (good luck with that!))
  11. Cap all of the lines and plug all of the holes best you can; I used vacuum caps on the hydraulic lines and they seemed to do the trick
  12. Wiggle, rotate, twist, push the ABS module down against the firewall. It fits, but it is tight. Then get under the car and pull it out through the exhaust tunnel beside the exhaust pipe; it won't come out from where the drive shaft inserts into the tranny
  13. Same thing with getting the new one in there - start it from below, then grab from above.
  14. If you thought it was a PITA getting the old ABS pump off the posts, it's even more fun getting the new one on (remember "do not bend the hydraulic lines" - again, let me know how you make out with that)
  15. Once you're secure on the three posts, start inserting the hydraulic lines.
    Pro tip: Undo the right-front hydraulic line inside the wheel well; I fought for literally hours trying to get the hydraulic lines inserted squarely and not cross-threaded; then removed that line and within 20 minutes had all six lines snugged up
  16. Start with the hydraulic lined nearest to the firewall. It is by far the most cumbersome to work with. DO NOT USE A WRENCH until you are absolutely 110% sure it is threaded straight. I was cross-threaded on that one line at least six times before I got it square
  17. Once that line against the firewall is in, get that RF hydraulic line into the ABS module; and THEN re-attach it inside the wheel well. Trust me.
  18. Once those two are in, the next four aren't too much of an issue.

Wiring.
Here are the wires we're working with:


Get a good wire crimper and use good heat shrink connectors like these from penclnck. If you paid $5 for 100...they're not "good".
Dealer charges $5ea; penclnck basically $1ea

You're going to cut your existing wires and replace them with the built up connector you put together with the repair wires hanging out. Label the repair wires (I put a diagram number as well as color(s) on a piece of tape on each wire)
Seal the unused holes on the back of your wiring connector. There are plugs you can buy, but I just smeared non-running clear sealant on the back and around the wires.
Here's my new connector, before labels and before sealant:

Wiring diagram (I hope it's OK to post this; if not, please let me know).

The one thing that threw me for a bit was that the diagram (even one drawn from erWin specific for my TDI) shows a "G608 Vacuum Sensor" connection - three wires. The thing that said "go ahead" to me, though, is my 38-pin harness was supposed to have these as well, so I figured that if my 38-pin harness didn't have, I wouldn't need them on the 46-pin harness as well. Further reading (after I'd passed the point of no - or at least very difficult - return) confirmed that the G608 is present only on the gas-engine cars.


And then....coding.
(To be continued)
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His ride: 2015 GSW SEL TDI with MIB2, Active Info Display, DSG tune
Her ride: 2016 A3 e-tron

His other ride: 2015 Giant Propel SL Di2

Last edited by Nuje; October 30th, 2019 at 16:45.
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Old October 29th, 2019, 17:42   #8
Nuje
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LRR (Long Range Radar) Installation:
My car (2015 GSW) came with "Front Assist" already installed, with the hardware being the MRR (medium-range), which is flat-faced; it functioned to simply scream at me if I was approaching something too quickly, and the opportunity to stop was quickly diminishing.

But, no autonomous braking (that I was aware of), and no ability to re-code this to work with ACC.

With the MRR installed, it's just held by three knobbed pins that pop into rubber sockets on a mounting bracket. The mounting bracket is secured by two 10mm bolts. You can either simply pull the MRR directly out (possibly bending the bracket if it doesn't let go easily), or unscrew the 10mm bolts. First time I did it, I took off the bumper cover, but subsequently, I just removed the license plate and its own plastic mounting piece, and un-did the bolts. Don't drop them, otherwise you might be pulling off the bumper cover. Wiring harness at the front radar needs no modification.
This is what the LRR looks like installed (not on my car):


MRR (with bumper off):


Mounting pins:


ABS Wheel sensors installation:
Only the rear wheel sensors are replaced. Same part number for both sides. One 5mm allen-head bolt holds them in. If you ever replaced the ABS sensors....this is nothing like those. A little pushing and wiggling and they come out. Easy-peasy.
Grey - new ones; black = OEM



Coding (particularly the ABS module):
A couple of basics to get out of the way.
First of all, when you install a new (as in different) ABS module, your ABS coding becomes 30 bytes worth of zeroes, and your old coding will not work.
If you want to “trial-and-error” your way through 30bytes, there are roughly 4.2x10^23 permutations (or a few billions of billions of years worth, if you could try one per second). So, you probably don't want to go that route.

Each byte is represented by eight bits, each of which can either be on/yes (1) or off/no (0).

Each byte, then, can be viewed in VCDS’s Long Coding Helper as eight digits, each digit being a 0 or 1. The eight bits are number 0-7.

Now, the confusing part: bit 7 is the left-most bit. Then 6-5-4-3-2-1-0 in sequence going rightward.


Thankfully, much smarter people than I figured stuff out, and user Somnus over at Ross-Tech has put together this Google Sheet which provides his best guesses (based on some reviewing a lot of ABS codings) as to the function of each byte and corresponding values.

Note: As pointed out by Somnus, you're on your own here; the information provided is merely some educated guesses. I'll offer what worked on my car, but if you decide to try this and follow what I did and it totally bricks your car...that's on you.

So, the good news is that the first 22 bytes (Byte0 to Byte21, inclusive) should line up fairly closely with what you had in your OEM ABS coding. Many of the bytes are related to the last six digits of your VIN, and the binary inverse of those.
Non-pro tip: If, like me, you barely understand bits and bytes and converting, get yourself a spreadsheet and get comfortable with these two formulas:
=BIN2HEX(cell)
=HEX2BIN(cell,8)
"cell" is the cell that has the value you want to convert; the "8" in the second formula ensures that you see all eight ones/zeroes)
There's a .pdf floating around out there by "Xagico" that lists a pile of different retrofits and mods that can be done on the Mk7; it has a lot of the coding changes to be made. So that's where I started.

In ABS coding, however, the recommendations on Byte24 (F4 or F8) were not accepted by my car. (I'm guessing this is because Xagico is Spanish(?), and the European cars came with some hardware as standard that were not offered on our cars).
Anyway, using the Somnus's spreadsheet, I was able to calculate that Byte24 on my car should be either 16 or 18; I tried 16 there and it worked. Again, YMMV, so do the math for yourself.

Next, I changed Byte26 to F0 - if you install the new rear wheel ABS sensors first and continue to drive your car without making any other changes, you'll probably have a pile of errors on your display. Change this byte and the errors should disappear literally as you're sitting there.
(Xagico's pdf said to change this to 50, and when I had my just the wheel sensors in my car - without swapping the ABS module - "50" made the errors go away. But once the new module was in the car, while I didn't have any errors, ACC would not work. Helpful user at ross-tech forum suggested to try "F0"....and just like that, everything, ACC worked. Not sure how he arrived at F0, but I'm glad he did.

Lastly in Byte29, Xagico said to change it to 39, but that didn't work for me. A user over at Ross-tech's forums helping me out suggested 22 - and that one worked.

Bleeding Brakes / ABS:
This one had me stumped for a while because I couldn't get it to work in ABS (it's nothing like in the old Mk4 where you just go to BASIC SETTINGS in 03-ABS and hit GO and it tells you what to do. There are things that look like what I need to do (e.g., Fill/Bleed Brake System),

but it asked for inputs (a one- to three-digit number) and nothing I tried for an input worked.

So, I made my first real use of ODIS - and if you've never used ODIS before, send a letter of thanks to Uwe and the guys at Ross-Tech. It is SO cumbersome and slow. Even the techs at my local VW dealership like VCDS better because of how quick and concise it is.

Anyway, ABS BASIC SETTINGS in ODIS guided me through the ABS cycling, brake bleeding, etc.

Clearing Errors:
Even after you get the ABS coding figure out, you're still going to have a pile of errors (e.g. ESC, tire pressure monitoring, etc.)
Usually, I'd just take the car for a drive, make sure the steering wheel gets moved all the way right/left, and it all resets itself.
Not this time.

In ODIS, I had to do BASIC SETTINGS in the module 44 - Electric Steering Assist. Basically, the car needs to re-learn where centre is. You put the SW at exact centre, then follow prompts to turn all the way to the right, all the way to the left, then back to centre. Can't remember the exact process, but ODIS is fairly hand-holdy, so it makes sense.

And literally, as soon as that was set, the errors just immediately disappeared from the cluster and infotainment unit.

I think that about wraps it up. I'll update if anything else springs to mind, and answer questions best I can.
__________________

His ride: 2015 GSW SEL TDI with MIB2, Active Info Display, DSG tune
Her ride: 2016 A3 e-tron

His other ride: 2015 Giant Propel SL Di2

Last edited by Nuje; November 1st, 2019 at 10:22.
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