1.9L BEW into 1982 Volkswagen Cabriolet

OK - after several weeks of prep work I am ready to begin the swap with what I feel is almost a dead end question. But first some back ground.

Recipient Vehicle:
1986 Volkswagen Cabriolet that belongs to my 17 year old daughter Loraine. Nice rust free Texas car

Donor engine:
2005 Jetta TDI - engine code BEW

Over the past few winters I have been missing around with it in what very little spare time I had. It was going to be a 1.8L K04 "AEB" gasser, when my daughter asked if it would have as much performance as her bothers ALH TDI. Then she asked about fuel economy and the decision was made to go to Diesel power! Out came the mounted 1.8T and now the Diesel engine sits in front of the Cabriolet.

The car was one of those interesting American models with AC and no PS. The AC system has been removed as why do you need AC in a convertible!?

We had a cable clutch system on the 02J transmission that was attached to the 1.8T but it was SO hard to push the high performance clutch without busting out my knee. I have spent the last few weeks fitting a Jetta MK3 brake and clutch pedal assembly, brake booster and master cylinder along with the MK3 slave cylinder to activate the 02J clutch. The 10.1" Jetta brakes are also being installed. MK4 accelerator pedal is in the mix as everything was too narrow for the MK3 pedal.


MK3 Pedals


MK3 booster, master cylinder and clutch cylinder.

The ceramic fuse electrical system has been removed and in it's place will be a Central Electric 2 system.

I've been spending the last few days working on the mounts. I purchased a few years ago some 02J > MK1 mounts and fitting the front mount and engine mount to the 1.8T was no issue other than some plastic manipulation.

The issue I am having now is the differences in the new style block that the BEW uses. I have seen several swaps where some cutting and pasting to the MK1 mount and voila it fits the ALH, so how hard could it be to do the same to the BEW....

Uh oh!

Something is really telling me that I can't get there from here as the "ears" that go to the frame of the car will hit the timing belt. Has anyone succesfully used MK1 mounts on a BEW? Or does it look like I have to break out the TIG and install a MK4 mount system on the cabriolet? Also, would I be able to get away with the MK4 passenger mount and leave everything else as is? Or should I say screw it and install an ALH engine in here and wimp out and do this the simpler way?

Does anyone have a good reason why I HAVE to run that pulley and not run without it like this? :

curious to see how your'e going to go about integrating the two harnesses

i believe you can get pre-fabbed custom motor mounts to fit these engines for fairly cheap (and 1.8t's into the mk1). there is a german site that sells them, can't remember the exact name at the moment

Timing Belt Tensioner

This is for an ALH.... Dont know if that helps??

Smokey The TDI said:

Originally Posted by oldpoopie-
Look in my build thread. Integrated engineering sells the pulley and the spacer you'll need

Smokey The TDI - Awesome!
Tensioner Part Number - #051109243
Spacer - http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-billet-spacer-for-06a-mechanical-timing-tensioners

Click to expand...

burpod said:

i believe you can get pre-fabbed custom motor mounts to fit these engines for fairly cheap (and 1.8t's into the mk1). there is a german site that sells them, can't remember the exact name at the moment

Click to expand...

Black Forest Industries is where I got the mounts for the O2J - older 1.8Ts have the same block as the MK1s had, the MK4+ block is what I am working with. On the ALH there is enough clearance from the timing belt - the idle pulley on the BEW is right where the metal mounting tab on the Cabriolet would be sitting. removing it, the mount would fit, however there has to be a reason for the idle pulley???

Smokey The TDI said:

This is for an ALH.... Dont know if that helps??

Click to expand...

With the idle pulley removed, I can get the tensioner pulley to the correct tightness with ease and everything seems to work... but no idle pulley = ??? This part is not what I need unless I am completely misunderstanding something.

dokatim said:

curious to see how your'e going to go about integrating the two harnesses

Click to expand...

I am going to use http://www.fastforward.ca - I hear they do this stuff all the time!

The main reason I chose the the BEW is the lack of K29 and K83 LEDs. I am going to build a black box that reads these CAN signals and will turn on LEDs so swaps like this can be California legal. The rest of the wiring is fairly straight forward.

Hasenwerk said:

With the idle pulley removed, I can get the tensioner pulley to the correct tightness with ease and everything seems to work... but no idle pulley = ??? This part is not what I need unless I am completely misunderstanding something.

Click to expand...

Mine has a small pulley in that area as well. On the ALH you completely remove it and replace the stock tensioner with the bigger 16V part, spacer, Longer stud.

C is what get removed completely. B is replaced with a bigger one.

Does anyone have the part number of the larger pulley? How much larger is it? Longer stud, spacer and that's it?

Hasenwerk said:

Does anyone have a good reason why I HAVE to run that pulley and not run without it like this? :

Click to expand...

You'd obviously need to remove the stud if you decided to give it a go as I'm sure you'll end up with belt flutter on the non-drive side of the belt. This will likely result in some funky wear. Lastly you'd need to do some testing to ensure that you have proper tension on the belt (ie you'd need to figure out new locations of your tension indicators relative to each other that provides OEM levels of belt tension).

I spent my Canada Day afternoon tinkering on the Cabriolet - the goal was to get the pedals all sorted out before installing the motor. It turns out my cutting and pasting of my MK3 pedal brackets to make everything fit resulted in a measurement error.

On a normal vehicle, the clutch and brake are at the same level with the accelerator pedal down about 4cm. The bottom of the pedals all line up with each other. The space between the brake and accelerator pedal is 7cm. Seems this setup is a standard of sorts as my son's MK2, wife's MK3, the Ford Ranger and VW Vanagon in my yard all have the same pedal spacing (within 0.5cm)


MK4 pedal arrangement, in a MK4

The issue I have is my brake pedal at rest is "pushed in" more than the clutch pedal. The brake can be pushed to the point the master cylinder bottoms out but it doesn't hit the floor and the full range of motion for the master cylinder is there - just that the pedal needs adjusting. The clutch is at the return rest. So the brake needs to go "up" another 3cm or so. So far as I can tell, there is no adjustment on the MK3 booster (please tell me I am wrong!). Is my only recourse to make the rod going into the booster adjustable (longer)? I was thinking of cutting it - welding a sleeve with a nut on the pedal side and threading the rod on the booster side so I could adjust the pedal height by spinning the assembly.


Modified MK3 assembly in MK1 with a brake pedal sitting too low.

Sub'ed! You are highlighting some details that my own research couldn't turn up. I am curious about the CAN to LED magic box you speak of. My biggest hang up for my ALH swap was how to retain the MK1 dash function. Also excited to see your progress on the CE2 conversion. Thanks!

Ty_Deschaine said:

Sub'ed! You are highlighting some details that my own research couldn't turn up. I am curious about the CAN to LED magic box you speak of. My biggest hang up for my ALH swap was how to retain the MK1 dash function. Also excited to see your progress on the CE2 conversion. Thanks!

Click to expand...

The CAN to LED project is the main reason for doing this swap - I need a test platform we can do the CAN bus sniffing with - might as well have fun doing it too! That and each of my two kids got / will get a cool TDI for their 16th birthday.

The ALH ECUs have the output for the glow plug and check engine lights. I sell a sub-harness that will allow you to install LEDs into your MK1 / MK2 / T3 instrument pod with very little effort - http://www.fastforward.ca/harness_retrofit_accessories.html - with slightly more effort you could install this harness in any conversion. It's the BEW and later engines where there is no dedicated wires for K29 and K83 LEDs.

Converting the 02A / 02J transmission to drive a cable speedometer is easy!

Way cool! Great news about the dash integration. So if you do an immobilizer, you should be able to ditch the MK4 dash entirely and use your harness to wire in the MK1 dash...

16V tensioner pulley doesn't work on the BEW

The 16V tensioner pulley, VW Part Number 051 109 243, is NOT the correct part for the BEW engine to eliminate the idler pulley. Yes it is a larger diameter, however the BEW belt is 30mm wide and the ABF 2.0L 16V, which is the same pulley for all 1.8L / 2.0L Scirocco, Jetta and Passat, is 25mm wide. The good news is, if you are doing an ALH conversion, it will work as those belts are 25mm wide. The original pulley is 65mm in diameter. There's money down the tubes...

Anyone know of a 75mmx30mm wide tensioner pulley that may work?

Ty_Deschaine said:

Way cool! Great news about the dash integration. So if you do an immobilizer, you should be able to ditch the MK4 dash entirely and use your harness to wire in the MK1 dash...

Click to expand...

My son's 86 GTI (RIP) so to be 1991 Jetta Coupe has an ALH with IMMO=off and has the original MK2 speedometer with the LED harness I make, it will also need the tachometer converter too as it is expecting a ignition coil driving signal as opposed to the nice square wave the ECU gives off. The really good news is the speedometer will read correctly with the 02J and I assume 02A lower half of the sender spinning the cable.

RESOLVED: Brake pedal "depth"

Solved the issue with the brake pedal that was down too far:

Cut and thread the brake vacuum booster rod. Then weld on a L bracket and a nut welded to that so that you can adjust the height of the pedal:


Cut and thread


Weld


Install and adjust - looking good!

Beauty solution for the brake pedal adjustment there! Subscribed.

We haven't got a picture of the whole car yet. Need some context for the envy and drool when looking at your project .

Andrew

Timing belt routing and motor mount installation

After searching high and low a 75x30mm tensioner pulley is a Unicorn in the Volkswagen Audi world and even a Unicorn at two auto-parts stores here in town for other makes of vehicles. All of this to have a pulley that will move the belt in 5mm at the very top and about 2mm where the motor mount is not worth it.

Motor mount installed - timing belt installed.

As the original timing belt covers had to be cut to allow the mount to fit, I installed some metal (old computer case) around the mount area to prevent debris from entering. From what I can see there is no way the belt will touch anything and it will be simple to keep an eye on everything.

Debris guards installed.


Top cover on


Final hole plugged

The accessory belt I used is a 37" long unit - the belt tensioner is about 1mm away from "no tension" part of it's travel. I will replace this with a 5060365 in a bit.

5060370 belt

Motor is in

Now I know why I like Vanagons and MK2s better than the MK1 - it is a royal PITA to get the engine in there seeing how you have to install it from underneath and I don't have a hoist.

4h later the engine is in, three out of four mounts are fastened. The front mount is going to require a bit of work as the water lines for the oil temperature regular are in the way and I will have to source a long bolt for the top starter bolt as what I have now isn't long enough to make it thru the captive bolt on the metal motor mount.



Time for a pizza and beer! Tomorrow I will get the front mount done and the shift linkage installed (shifter is in already) and see if I have time to start the exhaust system which will be a non-cat, straight thru system - perhaps even a side exit system!

Check out my thread regarding coolant routing. Using the Passat oil cooler will make your life easier

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/ol...E933254F-F2DB-4DF4-B2FE-6831C84B779B.jpg.html

looks good! nice pics

Nice work!

Axles and wheels

I installed the axles and brakes tonight. Seeing how there is a new VNT 1749VB attached to this engine and I am a Malone Tuning dealer . . . I decided to install the larger and vented 280mm TDI brakes I had on hand instead of the stock non-vented rotors 239mm brakes. 16V scirocco caliper carriers are all that is needed to make the conversion, that and some yellow anti-rust paint so make the rusty looking calibers look sexy! They don't look too bad behind the Volkswagen Motorsport wheels - the offset is going to look quite nice when finished!

Making things fit right is slow progress.

Wow... everything is a tight squeeze in the MK1 - absolutely everything! I've spent the last few days making things as simple as possible for coolant hoses and intercooler installation. Finishing touches on the clutch and brakes. Mostly time spent mounting the #$%^#$ intercooler!


It's starting to look like an engine bay!


MK4 intercooler installed on a sheet metal panel - no cuts to the Cabriolet and stock radiator fits! Still some work to do though


Adapter made for the 1749VB turbo so we clear the frame

Still way to much to do on this project. Tomorrow I concentrate on the intercooler and intake piping and find that last coolant hose I need at the autoparts store. Then on to the exhaust system - I am really thinking side exit with no muffler - we'll see and then on the electrical. Probably won't get it done by this weekend, where i have to start a different TDI project...

Phase one almost done

The car is now at the point where I am happy with the layout of the engine compartment. Bakes and clutch are working. Intercooler system is done. Coolant system (less one small hose) is done. Now for some random pics

Intercooler system:
The entire system is made from 1.5" PVC pipe. This has lasted 10.000+ km in my son's ALH with no issues at all, so time to do it again. The ends of the pipe have small round head screws 120 degrees apart to emulate the traditional flares on metal / plastic pipes.


Small screws


Turbo to intercooler pipe

I have a 051C 3.0 bar MAP sensor - normally I mess about and make a flat spot - but this idea came to me - just use the bottom section of the EGR valve - the hole is the perfect size for the 051 2.5 bar MAP and fits just fine with the 3.0 bar MAP with the rubber adapter.


3.0 bar MAP mounted in a MK3 EGR valve


3.0 bar MAP mounted in a MK3 EGR valve


MK4 fuel filter bracket adapted for the MK1

Just a few more things to go!

Engine bay over view


Passenger side detail


Driver side detail

Tomorrow I put in the steering column and then wheel it out of the garage to make room for the 2001 Ford Ranger ALH project!

What airbox s that?

oldpoopie said:

What airbox s that?

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Digifant Cabriolet with an adapter I made to eliminate the AFM