Doin's at Dan's

DanG144 · May 29, 2009

Zeb and I finished the Suburban tonight; the ground wire was open circuited for the front fan motor. All fixed. She Who Must Be Obeyed will be happy again.

So that means tomorrow morning is open. The gasser New Beetle will not get here until 230 pm or so.

Anybody need something checked or worked on a REAL car, one with a diesel engine?

DanG144 · Jun 1, 2009

Zeb and I checked out the New Beetle.

It is a 98 NB, with less than 40 kmiles on it. The owners admit to doing no routine maintenance on it (other than oil changes.) The oil was last changed in early 2007, and it has less than 3,000 miles on it since then.

The serpentine belt has cracks you can stick a thumbnail through.

I bet the TB looks the same.

There were some misfire codes. There were plenty of codes of the type you get when your battery dies. All the codes cleared and did not return in a 5 mile drive.

There is an intermittent problem with the drivers side key switch; maybe frayed wiring. The driver's side window control switch is missing.

The dipstick tube is broken off 6" below the normal top.

The AC does not work. Amazingly both radiator/condenser fans work. The AC clutch engages. But High and low side pressures are both at 115 psi, even with the compressor running.

The owners seem to think that Zeb's offer to work on the car is some scam to get money from them. He has offered to do the repairs that we can, if they furnish the parts. He took them a list of parts needed and jobs prioritized, and included sources for the parts (internet prices not dealer prices.)

He met this elderly lady, who was driving the NB with the driver's window stuck in the up position, and the AC not working. She was severely suffering from the heat. So he made the offer.

Her "advisor" who is a very suspicious old codger (ex- husband or boy friend) busily drinkng a 44 ounce beer, probably will tell her not to get the work done. She needs another advisor.

Well, you do what you can.

visionlogic · Jun 2, 2009

DanG144 said:
Well, you do what you can.

Geeezzzz... does that story ever sound all too familiar. Seems that no good deed goes unpunished. But good on ya, and keep fighting the good fight.

DanG144 · Jun 4, 2009

June 5, 6, 7

Friday and Saturday, I will see you at Asheville.

Holler if you need a hand.

Sunday afternoon Ugly Greasanova and I will be putting in his timing belt and injection pump (ALH). We need to do put on a new turbo as well, but we probably will not get to that.

Sunday morning I will be working in the shop.

Dan

DanG144 · Jun 7, 2009

Asheville was great.

Today we worked on UG's Jetta, timing belt is installed, Newly resealed injector pump is installed. Waiting on a new right engine mount - the part that bolts to the engine, not the part with rubber that bolts to the frame. Once that is in and the battery is charged we will be ready to re-install all the interferences.

I recently learned that the threads are at risk for failing on this part the third time they are tensioned.

DanG144 · Jun 7, 2009

Saturday 13 June.

Next weekend we should finish up UG's ALH Jetta, if not completed during the evenings this week.

Then we start the cam job on DidJettaRun's BRM Jetta, if we get our parts in and homework done. We got some good tips from Franko6 at Asheville.

Vegged-Out · Jun 7, 2009

Dan,

I have a question regarding the fan thing....

Would the troubleshooting be the same on other make and models i.e Toyota?

Got home and did the same thing to my wife's van. Neither of them moved and when I went to spin them, they seemed a little tough to spin.

DanG144 · Jun 8, 2009

I cannot say with authority.

But probably as soon as your AC is turned on, on a car with electric fans, one or both should immediately start.

When the car is running and the AC is on, one fan should certainly start within about 60 seconds. The compressor output will be getting very hot, and see high pressures withing this time period, if the compressor is good.

My Suburban, many Honda's and several other cars bear this out.

Vegged-Out · Jun 8, 2009

Roger that.

I think I have the same issue on my wifes Toyota van. neither of the fans are working when AC is on and in low gear on the fan.

I will try to pull one of them off this week and let you know what I see. My assumption is..if the fans aren't working for AC functions, then they may not be working for cooling either and I may be in for an overheat issue shortly.

Maybe I have a bad compressor. Anyway to check that?

Hey, thanks so much for the fan lesson this weekend. I really appreciate your being persistant with me in getting me to take a look at it.

DanG144 · Jun 8, 2009

UG's battery was charged overnight, and I test started the car this evening. No problem.

Now when the motor mount bracket (as TDIPARTS.com names the part of the right motor mount that bolts to the engine) gets in we will be ready to put it back together.

The used turbo he bought is resisting my efforts to get it apart, and it badly needs the vane controls worked. He might get it back with the present turbo still on it.

Dan

mopower · Jun 10, 2009

Dan, You don't have an electric fuel pump for a carb setup laying around do you?

DanG144 · Jun 10, 2009

Nope, I do have a spare PD fuel pump assembly, but nothing else.

Many cheap electric pumps are available, but I don't have one.

mopower · Jun 11, 2009

I am not doing good finding cheap ones, unless you mean the $50 ones at the parts stores are cheap. I've read that they are not something you want to end up counting on day to day.

I hate to buy one of those and only use it once or twice.

DanG144 · Jun 11, 2009

Well the PD lift pump cost at least $220.

I had a cheap solenoid operated FA or FAC (maybe FACET?) pump for a VW air cooled engine. It ran for years.

Dan

DanG144 · Jun 16, 2009

Time to catch this up to date.

UG's right engine mount bracket (the part that hooks to the engine) came in, so I put that on Saturday.

Saturday's main task was a new cam, followers, etc for DidJettaRun's 2005.5 BRM. We were going great guns until a cam journal cap bolt broke during torquing. The most likely explanation is operator error (I am the operator.) The fourth bolt we torqued never clicked the torque wrench, and torque never got high enough to click the torque wrench, as far as I could tell. The first three went as expected.

Since we had no spare bolts we were out of business. We got the broken threads out of the head - not too hard a task. Used the broken bolt and then a screwdriver to back it out.

Worked on UG's car, getting it back together after the TB change and IP re-install after sealing. Did not get quite through.

Sunday cleaned the shop, and took it easy. Dieselfueler and DidJettaRun came over and we finished UG's car except for the bumper, headlight, fender well, tire, etc. Warmed it up, set the timing.

Finished that up on Monday evening. Flushed the coolant. Fixed air intrusion issue on fuel lines - cut off the heavily used cracked ends, put in a new fuel filter to reduce DP. Road tested. Ran ok, all VCDS checks were fine (except known turbine vane sticking issue - new used turbo on the bench.)

Finished the BRM just now.

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

UG's ALH greascar originally came in with a recent history of slow starting, then finally no starting.

It had bad air inleakage into the fuel lines, and was severely retarded; both of these problems have been addressed, and it is STILL slow starting.

I could use some advice on this issue.

Could the fact that the vehicle was starting up and shutting down on WVO, without being able to purge, cause injector fouling and make it slow to start?

Is there anyway to clean the injectors/nozzles besides a lubromoly diesel purge? I already did this.

There is also a chance that the voltage is dropping so much during starting that the ECU is cutting out. I did not think of this until after he had left with his car. So I did not do the simple check.

UG's car has a bad glow plug in #3 cylinder, reading 74 ohms sometimes, and sometimes 0.8 ohms. Perhaps the heating element is cracked. I was afraid to try to pull the glow plug, since the car runs on WVO I was afraid there was a higher probability that the plug was gunked up really badly and the threads would fail. UG will have to pull it himself. I sprayed some KROIL on it in preparation.

I completely unhooked the WVO system from the fuel circuit, to make troubleshooting and repair simpler.

Can anyone tell me how much fuel is normal for an ALH to inject during starting? How many milligrams per stroke?

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

UG's ALH greascar originally came in with a recent history of slow starting, then finally no starting.

It had bad air inleakage into the fuel lines, and was severely retarded; both of these problems have been addressed, and it is STILL slow starting.

I could use some advice on this issue.

Could the fact that the vehicle was starting up and shutting down on WVO, without being able to purge, cause injector fouling and make it slow to start?

Is there anyway to clean the injectors/nozzles besides a lubromoly diesel purge? I already did this.

There is also a chance that the voltage is dropping so much during starting that the ECU is cutting out. I did not think of this until after he had left with his car. So I did not do the simple check.

UG's car has a bad glow plug in #3 cylinder, reading 74 ohms sometimes, and sometimes 0.8 ohms. Perhaps the heating element is cracked. I was afraid to try to pull the glow plug, since the car runs on WVO I was afraid there was a higher probability that the plug was gunked up really badly and the threads would fail. UG will have to pull it himself. I sprayed some KROIL on it in preparation.

I completely unhooked the WVO system from the fuel circuit, to make troubleshooting and repair simpler.

Can anyone tell me how much fuel is normal for an ALH to inject during starting? How many milligrams per stroke?

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

UG's ALH greascar originally came in with a recent history of slow starting, then finally no starting.

It had bad air inleakage into the fuel lines, and was severely retarded; both of these problems have been addressed, and it is STILL slow starting.

I could use some advice on this issue.

Could the fact that the vehicle was starting up and shutting down on WVO, without being able to purge, cause injector fouling and make it slow to start?

Is there anyway to clean the injectors/nozzles besides a lubromoly diesel purge? I already did this.

There is also a chance that the voltage is dropping so much during starting that the ECU is cutting out. I did not think of this until after he had left with his car. So I did not do the simple check.

UG's car has a bad glow plug in #3 cylinder, reading 74 ohms sometimes, and sometimes 0.8 ohms. Perhaps the heating element is cracked. I was afraid to try to pull the glow plug, since the car runs on WVO I was afraid there was a higher probability that the plug was gunked up really badly and the threads would fail. UG will have to pull it himself. I sprayed some KROIL on it in preparation.

I completely unhooked the WVO system from the fuel circuit, to make troubleshooting and repair simpler.

Can anyone tell me how much fuel is normal for an ALH to inject during starting? How many milligrams per stroke? I still have a lot to learn about ALH's.

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

The BRM's cam timing was at -1.0; we will adjust it later.

The BRM's battery was low and would initially only turn the engine over at 170 rpm. As everyone knows you have to roll the PD's over 200 rpm in order to have the ECU operate the injectors, so the engine was getting no fuel. From hand rotating we knew the torque required to roll the engine was normal, but it was still worrisome.

We unplugged the electrical connection on the head for the injectors and ran the starter long enough to ensure oil flow before loading the new cam with active injector pressure.

Being in a hurry we put a charger on it, and used the 100 amp booster feature to help start it. After a couple of tries I noticed the battery terminals were corroded on the inside (outside still looked good) and cleaned them.

Now the car has steering and ABS warning lights. It is possible we put too much voltage on the car's electric system due to the bad positive terminal and the booster, does anyone know what damage this can cause?

My VCDS can only talk to the engine controller on this car (HEX KEY only, not CAN), so we do not know what the codes are.

We were pretty much brain dead - it was getting late. We did not even check for blown fuses.

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

June 19, 20, 21

I am going to try to keep the workload light this weekend. No major jobs.

One guy is bringing in his car to be checked out on Saturday.

engineerorange · Jun 17, 2009

DanG144 said:
Now the car has steering and ABS warning lights. It is possible we put too much voltage on the car's electric system due to the bad positive terminal and the booster, does anyone know what damage this can cause?

This is normal after disconnecting the battery. After approximately 1/2 mile of driving the car will have recalibrated itself and extinguished these lights. Mine did this after removing the battery for the DSG service.

Click to expand...

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

Thanks for the info.
He drove it all the way home, and they were still on.

I will have him go lock to lock on the steering several times, and see if that helps.

Dan

mopower · Jun 17, 2009

I have a CAN-bus cable if you need it Dan.

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

Great! Now I know who to pester.

Could I borrow it and have someone else pick it up? (DidJettaRun)

Dan

mopower · Jun 17, 2009

DanG144 said:
Great! Now I know who to pester.

Could I borrow it and have someone else pick it up? (DidJettaRun)

Dan

Sure,

I just need to have my timing adjusted with it (or any cable) at some point. I might do that at the GTG.

DanG144 · Jun 17, 2009

Mark,
You can do that almost any afternoon or weekend. Like this Friday Saturday or Sunday.

Not today. Probably tomorrow, though.

Just page me before you come.

Dan

DanG144 · Jun 19, 2009

Motorinar and his son Chris came by today to check out their pretty 04 Jetta Wagen.

The alternator clutch pulley is dragging in the freewheeling direction. No repair.
Your intake flapper valve is not functioning. No repair.
We replaced your in-tank fuel pump, which was not functioning.
We tightened the right axle CV to transmission flange - all the bolts were very loose. It had about a 1/8th inch gap open to sling grease.
The six bolts on this flange need to be replaced. They are supposed to be TTY bolts (torque to yield) that should be used only one time. So buy these before adding the grease that it badly needs. Please treat the repair on this as the temporary expedience that it really is.
The air line was loose that vents your N75 and sticking up against the side of the air box, preventing the turbo from unloading properly, we just put that back in place. the retest was good on the turbo controls.Turbo response dropped from more than 5 seconds to less than 1 second. The severe overboost condition was eliminated.
Your MAF is working fine, with good air flow. No need to clean the intake.
Chris and Bruce (DidJettaRun) did a repair on your driver's side fan, cleaning the brushes. It now runs.
Your cam timing was good.
A visual of your timing belt was good, the tensioner is still centered in the window.
No leak from the tell-tale on the timing belt cover.
You have a bad power supply to one of your airbags.
You seem to have a leak at your vacuum pump, and/or valve cover. You need a gasket for your vacuum pump ($8.50 at Boraparts.com). No parts but some O2 sensor safe RTV or hylomar sealant for the valve cover.
The whistling noise is coming from your turbo, as best as I could tell, not from a boost leak. Sorry. I say this because the same whistle was present with the turbo compressor discharge air line off and on. With the line off, there is no air pressure to cause a whistle anywhere else.
The heavy periodic vibration could be the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) failing. You might get another opinion on this. It seemed to me that periodically it was slamming back and forth, without the centering spring effect that should be present. This is very hard to pin down. There are some checks that we can do if we pull the airbox, battery, charge air lines, and starter out. However I do not know of any definitive test for this condition. I will ask around on this.

It was good to meet Chris and you. Drop by again some time.

Dan

DanG144 · Jun 19, 2009

2005.5 BRM Jetta Steering problem resolved

engineerorange said:
DanG144 said:

Now the car has steering and ABS warning lights. It is possible we put too much voltage on the car's electric system due to the bad positive terminal and the booster, does anyone know what damage this can cause?

This is normal after disconnecting the battery. After approximately 1/2 mile of driving the car will have recalibrated itself and extinguished these lights. Mine did this after removing the battery for the DSG service.

Click to expand...

Bruce researched and found a VCDS basic setting procedure that we did on his car. When we went through it the second time, it fixed the problem.

He had been driving several days with the steering not providing much assist when the car was not moving or moving very slow.

The ESP light and yellow skidding car were illuminated. The steering wheel light was yellow, and it had the following codes:
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-14x.lbl
Part No: 1K1 909 144 H
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.3 1502
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
3 Faults Found:
02546 - Steering Limit Stop
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
Freeze Frame:
Mileage: 9480 km
Temperature: 42.0°C
Voltage: 14.00 V
Voltage: 13.80 V
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
014 - Defective - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
000 - -
Freeze Frame:

These were eliminated the second time we went through this procedure:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/VW_Passat_(3C)_Steering_Assist redirected to the GOLF V Steering Assist page.

Bruce had driven about 150 miles, and tried several other methods involving key on, turn, key off, etc. None of them worked.

Ross-Tech and VCDS come through again.

Thanks to mopower for letting me borrow his VCDS CAN cable.

Click to expand...

Elfnmagik · Jun 20, 2009

Have to say, Dan yer amazing. Someone that finds the time to do all you do for others and still find time for you and yours is commendable, to say the least. I'm just across the river from you, trying to pull some vibes.

DanG144 · Jun 20, 2009

I change the oil in my Jetta today. It is off warranty at 50 kmiles, so I went to Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck with added ZDDP. Not trying to start an oiil thread or discussion. This is just what I did.

Also put in my new steel glow plugs, thanks to the tune by Jeff Robertson of Rocketchip. I was glad to get the ceramic ones out in one piece.

So I have some good barely used (50 kmiles and 4 Carolina winters) ceramic glow plugs if anyone needs them.

mopower and Houpty GT stopped by. We timed mopower's 1Z/AHU. Then we replaced some fuel lines and vacuum lines.

Then we retreated into the air conditioned part of the shop. It was hot today.

I intend to put in my Doniol made boost/EGT display sometime soon. Maybe tomorrow.

Doin's at Dan's

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