2006 - Hissing sound, blown EGR cooler valve, help?

So, I own a 2006 Jetta TDI MK5 (BRM) and its making the wonderful hissing noise that seems so common to this model year. It only has 85k miles on the engine, and everything else seems to work fine.
I took it to the dealer, (gasp) and after 125 bucks they told me that the EGR cooler needed to be replaced. I said, okay, I'll do some research. They were asking just shy of 1000 to replace it.
After research I found, yes, its the cooler, yes it can be replaced by the lowly (non-dealer) mechanic I am. However, the part is prone, if not certain, to fail again, I have learned. So, might as well block the darn thing off and chip the ECU.
My questions are these:
1) What are the drivability issues that this failure leads to, other than a loss in around town milage that is apparent?
2) How difficult is this really to undertake one one's own? ("one" being a competent mechanic, and for both changing the EGR and blocking it off)
3) What device actually measures the exhaust flow through the EGR, and how does it do it? (I have heard that just putting on block off plates turns on the CE light and returns piss-poor performance from the car, without chipping)
The above is most pertinent, because chipping is cool, but for now, a quick fix, would putting in block off plates on either end of the EGR and leaving it on the car, letting the cooler valve flap away to its heart's content seems like an okay deal unless there is another device that responds to the ECU that I cannot bypass without a chipping.
any help I can get from the amassed knowledge of this forum is greatly appreciated!

Couple things to consider:

It is an emission control device, and it is unlawful to remove it or tamper with it (I say this tongue-in-cheek, but you should know this). Also, some places have testing of these type devices for license purposes, and some places that do not now may have in the not too distant future.

Software will be the best bet to disable it properly, but you will also need to figure out the heater hoses, as those go through the EGR cooler so you will have to come up with some type of modification there.

The new EGR cooler changeover flapper valve shaft (the actual part that fails) has supposedly been improved. They look a little different, like maybe the bushing is a tougher material, so if you replace it now you may not have to replace it again so soon.

This is a tough job to do, as the EGR cooler is in an awkward spot as it sits between the block and the turbocharger support bracket, which is also the turbo's oil drain. That can be tricky to get back in place, and it MUST be fit perfectly. You also need some good ball-ended Allens to get at the bolts.

Okay, neat.
With that data, just replacing it doesn't sound as much like a poor choice as it did before. Provided we get a newer, post-changeover part. I've studied the setup of the cooler and it doesn't seem like it'll be more than a mild to moderate pain to remove. Patience and a circumspect approach to work is clearly in order.

I'm still interested in knowing what putting blocking plates over the exhaust ports and leaving the EGR cooler in place (think of the plates as a washer between the cooler intake and output tube and the exhaust manifold) would do in terms of the readings and subsequent operation of the ECU. Just as a little brain food of course... If you, or anyone else has experience or insight that would be great.

Diesel lifer said:

it doesn't seem like it'll be more than a mild to moderate pain to remove.

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BAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

philip_g said:

BAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

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helpful.

Well, partner, on a scale from changing the remote control batteries to re-assembling an automatic watch, how would you rate it?

Diesel lifer said:

helpful.

Well, partner, on a scale from changing the remote control batteries to re-assembling an automatic watch, how would you rate it?

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here's an idea, partner, climb under the car with a flashlight and have a look for yourself.

I've done that. (And I stand by my statement.)

Diesel lifer said:

I've done that. (And I stand by my statement.)

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then the point of this thread is? all your questions have been covered multiple times in the threads you supposedly read.

No, I'm still wondering what things the ECU uses to meter the EGR air flow. That and what drivability issues the leaking EGR cooler causes. Other threads have been helpful, but not very specific.

Oilhammer was very helpful, I hadn't found that the issue had been addressed by VW, and now I know that.

I've not read a lot of your posts, have you had a lot of experience with this problem? Any info you could provide would certainly be helpful.

The ECU uses the MAF sensor to monitor EGR flow, as well as an oxygen sensor. Some cars also have an exhaust gas temp sensor.

If you block the EGR off, the ECU will know within about 45 seconds of startup. It will set a DTC, and it will turn on the MIL. It will not make the engine stop running, although it will make it a bit noisier at idle and low RPMs, and some people have reported worse fuel economy at light loads with it disabled.

I personally feel on a stock or mostly stock TDI, with our ULSD fuel, it is best to leave the EGR functional and intact. There are some tweaks I have used on my BHW, but that is a different animal than the BRM.

Excellent, thanks oilhammer. Replacing the cooler with a new stock one for my model sounds like the simplest route. I think I'll do that.

Just be certain you follow a couple hints:

You will pretty much need ball-ended Allen bits, good ones (like Snap on). Loosen all the fasteners first, then take them out, this will help keep anything from getting in a bind.

Carefully remove the turbo support pedestal, as the turbo oil drain is intergral with it... DO NOT KINK IT in any way upon removal, or you will be fighting to get it back in place afterwards.

Mount the new cooler up loosely to its mounting points, so it can still 'float' a bit in a nuetral position, then install the pipe connections, snug them down, THEN tighten the cooler against the block.

Make certain the space blankets in get put back in place where you found them. Replace the heater hose assembly if there is any sign of oily residue on it, they soften and blow commonly, and you have to take it loose anyways at the cooler, now is the time to replace it.

You can get to the quick coupler connections at the heater core easier from above, after you remove the air inlet tube... be certain not to mess up the electrical connections up there in the process, it is kind of tight and awkward.

Got the cooler out, and the valve shaft has some serious play, it can rock laterally about 2-3 degrees. There is evidence of erosion around the joint between the shaft and cooler body, probably from the escaping gas.

Where is the culprit bushing located? inside the body of the cooler? There is no evidence of a bushing other than ... well the hole it might have occupied.

Out time was a few hours, thanks to the rain, and was less difficult than tedious. I certainly owe you a thanks, oilhammer, you made my life easier.

Now the fun part, picking up the new cooler and wiggling it back in.
I think I'll add a fire axe to my toolkit for that.

Final update: New EGR installed today, despite the rain.
Car runs as normal or better? Noticed a little less shudder when rolling from a stop. May be unrelated or effect affirming on my part.
Happy to have the car in shape again.

Mine's getting a new EGR Cooler next week.
Confirmed the issue today.
Car was making the hissing sound under acceleration.

Quoted price was $360 for the part, and less than $500 overall, seems fair considering what I've read on here.

EGR Cooler fixed.

My car had a slight hiccup/hesitation at around 2,000rpm (only sometimes) now that the ERG Cooler/Valve has been replaced, that hesitation is completely gone.

I've had that issue for a long time, it never got worse, so I didn't worry about it too much. My EGR must have gone bad a while ago, and just started making the hissing sound recently.

Cars runs so nice now without the hesitation.

I was just quoted $850 to replace cooler and pipe (shop said pipe tends to go often, so he was recommending it).
Not sure what I think about that, though.

Our 2006 TDI has same symptoms. Local regular mechanic won't do it and the Euro Specialist said they stopped working on VW's because "they need all kinds of special tools and it's not worth it". So, dealer quoted around $500.

pisgahtdi said:

Our 2006 TDI has same symptoms. Local regular mechanic won't do it and the Euro Specialist said they stopped working on VW's because "they need all kinds of special tools and it's not worth it". So, dealer quoted around $500.

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The approx. $500 quote from the dealer is quite reasonable considering the egr cooler itself is around $340.

Anyone know what size "ball end allens" I need to do this job?

Also, if a person decided they wanted to remove the EGR altogether, what all is needed other than the plates to cover the exhaust?

5mm and 6mm Allens. Also plan on replacing the heater hose assembly (1K0-122-157-GH). You can reuse the clamps, and reuse the quick-coupling pieces at the heater core.

If you wanted to do away with the EGR cooler, you'll need a couple block-off plates and some way to tie the heater hoses that went to the cooler together so it continues in the normal circuit. You'll also need different software in the ECU.

I think the BRM presents a nice opportunity for dieselgeek to make a race pipe that eliminates the throttle, EGR assembly, and allows for the charge air hose to connect directly into the intake manifold.

But on a stock to mostly-stock engine, a fully intact EGR system is perfectly fine.

Thanks. Will I need the heater hose if I am just removing the EGR? Also, do you know the part number for the intake? I may just replace it instead of cleaning. The FAQ says it is a cheap part, but gives no other information.

Are the Allens "T" handle?

I just performed an EGR delete because if this whole leaky EGR cooler ordeal. One rocketchip, two block-off plates later all is amazing!

Getting at the bolts was a pain. I used my Allen socket set (thanks Ducati) to get at the bolts.

I had ours replaced at 100k mi - but isn't it true that the replacement part isn't any better engineered? I think at 200k if this car is still running I'll delete it when it fails again.

Sella Turcica said:

isn't it true that the replacement part isn't any better engineered?

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And that is exactly why I went the EGR delete route! There was no way I was going to pay $300+ for a part with the same design flaw as the one that just failed. Especially, when I can spend the same amount of money and remove the problem FOREVER AND get a horsepower and torque bump!

Good info guys! Thanks

FlyBoyOz - I sent you a PM

I have a EGR failure occuring as well. Does anyone know if someone sells a kit to do this? Would be highly interested! I'll begin to search the internet tonight to see if I can find one some where.

Dieselgeek sells block off plates. Need a 3/4 90' splice for the coolant hoses, and something to plug the vac line. I'm also looking at getting the parts together because I will probably need to be doing this soon. And you need a tune to get rid of the CEL, but if you've read up on it I'm sure you know.

Thanks for the info guys. I think I will try to tackle this myself. Found another thread on here that has a great picture of what SBAtdijetta did for the EGR Delete:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=251657

I got to thinking if I'm going to remove the EGR portion why not remove the PCV from the intake as well and clean the intake in the process. However I don't see any kits for the BRM either so maybe I'll be making something for that as well.