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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old January 13th, 2019, 06:17   #16
Mongler98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrusse11 View Post
recalcitrant
having an obstinately uncooperative attitude toward authority or discipline.
i had to look that up, thanks, just learned a new word!
Not sure it works here.
What are you? some sort of thesaurus?
words like guru, and Fussed?
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Old January 13th, 2019, 08:16   #17
jmodge
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One thing to keep in mind about antiseize, or copper in contact with aluminum in general. Copper and aluminum react to one another, and copper always wins.
Think aluminum house wiring and the paste or stainless steel connectors required with it. Also when copper chromate was used to pressure treat wood, galvanized or stainless fasteners and flashings were required. Many aluminum deck ledger flashings were eaten by the copper chromate in the wood resulting in water entry and damage.
There are antiseizes without copper for this reason.
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Old January 13th, 2019, 09:05   #18
Rrusse11
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"What are you? some sort of thesaurus?"

English major, and both my parents were English professors.
Don't have a thesaurus. {:o)


BTW, I think that the term is perfect for a difficult fastener.
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Old January 13th, 2019, 09:27   #19
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I use it also. Unfortunately anti seize did not last long enough on my front bumper cover. The lower right side bolt head broke off and the left side was rusty.
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Old January 13th, 2019, 13:07   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
anything into aluminum needs lube
I like anti-sieze and would use it on everything
sadly, I am lazy so the only stuff that actually gets it is high torque stuff like the crank bolt, sleeved suspension bolts and stuff into AL threads
Yeah, that Crankshaft bolt can be a PITA.

Here's a good example........ and in a NB, more of a b!tch..




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Old January 13th, 2019, 18:26   #21
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careful with that style of counterhold, cracked my crank pulley from the crank pilot out to the m8 bolt holes, cut the angle iron out a little further so it can grab them 180 out
I'm still running the cracked pulley for the last 20-30k miles, but it did cause me some worry.
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Old January 13th, 2019, 18:38   #22
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Originally Posted by [486] View Post
careful with that style of counterhold, cracked my crank pulley from the crank pilot out to the m8 bolt holes, cut the angle iron out a little further so it can grab them 180 out
I'm still running the cracked pulley for the last 20-30k miles, but it did cause me some worry.
did you try applying Heat? Im this is one of the steps im worried about in my swap build
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Old January 13th, 2019, 22:44   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
did you try applying Heat? Im this is one of the steps im worried about in my swap build
what would you heat?

get the bolt hot enough to expand enough to ease the +90 deg step and you're going to be drawing the temper softer
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Old January 13th, 2019, 23:08   #24
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I like the Wurth "pure nickel" high temp anti-seize. It was recommended to me by Hermtdi for turbo fasteners. It holds up well to very high temps.
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Old January 14th, 2019, 12:15   #25
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I've used both the copper and graphite anti-seize compounds over the last 30 years. I never liked the graphite based stuff.

I've always had good results with the copper based paste. Regardless of the temps or amount of time the paste was exposed to, the fasteners always came off clean and easy.

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Old January 17th, 2019, 05:05   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmodge View Post
One thing to keep in mind about antiseize, or copper in contact with aluminum in general. Copper and aluminum react to one another, and copper always wins.
Think aluminum house wiring and the paste or stainless steel connectors required with it. Also when copper chromate was used to pressure treat wood, galvanized or stainless fasteners and flashings were required. Many aluminum deck ledger flashings were eaten by the copper chromate in the wood resulting in water entry and damage.
There are antiseizes without copper for this reason.
Yea, since when did copper and aluminum have issues,. The issue you refer to in electric al pannel is that over time, aluminum will break down faster if the aluminum wire is not properly clamped and greased to protect from election galvanization loss.
Find me an aluminum part that has copper pressed into it like a Computer heat sink and tell me how it's been a problem. Copper antiseze is perfectly fine on aluminum parts. There is even a dialectical compound suspending the copper so that it wont cause issues on anything.
If you were flowing electrical current though a copper part into aluminum and it was not properly sealed from the elements, it will break down in a hurry. Battery connections!
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Old January 17th, 2019, 12:23   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climbtheplanet View Post
and I'm terrified I will strip something every time I start to crank on any of these 5 mm and 6 mm hex bolts.
you dont 'crank' on 5mm & 6mm bolts. check a book, or better yet get a shop manual. a 5 or 6mm bolt may well be in the inch-lb torque tightening category.
and by saying that your looking at what your doing wrong, to/from the start. (these small)bolts &nuts get snug and check, or good and snug, again check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieleephd View Post
Bad, antisieze is a lubricant and will cause the bolts to loosen.
dude what are you talking about, getting at. its a lube and a anti-corrosion. lube doesnt mean it comes off. unless you leave loose/hanging in the first place. as a lube it will help in especially more accurate torque values. as a lube and corrosion inhibitor, when you go, how long and many miles down the road, loosen a fastener, you will tend to have better results, and not break/strip stuff. that can just get you stuck.
i dont think your other post made much sense either, to be truthful.

some one mentioned crank bolt?? no anti-seize here. thin coating of oil for that bolt, light oil, like a good syn 5w-xx.

in aluminum threads like intake bolts, it well and helps these 'softer' threads. and helps bolts/fasteners coming out. as to notice a bolt is quite heavier steel going into these threads, and a cross of metals, anti-seize helps with this as well.

i put on just about 100% of fasteners, 'screws', nuts,bolts, anything, just about, with threads. and lugs, nuts, bolts, studs i mean. have been using the copper stuff for a few years, happen to stick w/the permatex stuff.
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Old January 17th, 2019, 12:39   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvmydiesels View Post

i put on just about 100% of fasteners, 'screws', nuts,bolts, anything, just about, with threads. and lugs, nuts, bolts, studs i mean. have been using the copper stuff for a few years, happen to stick w/the permatex stuff.
Yeah, I use oil because it burns up leaving a layer of protection ceasing to be a lubricant.
Do what you will, just don't worry about what can happen. I don't care what others do regularly, I recommend against it and you make your own choices.

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