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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old January 13th, 2014, 03:27   #46
Abacus
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More like a bad cluster. Send it to Derek White at ChubsAuto and he can probably fix it for you.
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Old January 13th, 2014, 07:03   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacus View Post
I can't believe I haven't posted something on this thread yet. Here is my method, which is simple and takes about 1/2 hour total. I've done about a dozen so far without a single problem.

Originally from this post, as well as others:

I use a bearing splitter and a piece of Uni-strut. I bought the bearing splitter at a yard sale and the Uni-strut I pulled off the scrap heap. Ignition switches being a pain are a thing of the past with this setup and I always keep it in my tool box.




The first time I replaced my switch, I removed the column. I used this method the second time, and it is faster, as long as you have to tools (bearing collar and puller shown above).

Note, the switch and housing will not come off unless the KEY IS IN THE ON POSITION. I made the mistake of beating on the switch/lock housing a little too much until I realized that the ignition lock was still holding it onto the column.

When you go to remove the switch housing, insert your key and turn it to "run".
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Old December 4th, 2014, 05:44   #48
98fire
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Ignition Switch. Hey everyone. I'm new to the site and saw posts about the ignition switch. I recently bought a 96 passat tdi and it has crazy headlight issues. I,m not mechanically inclined naturally so i usually have my repairs done at a shop (yea, I'm one of those guys) ,and they told me there is a recall on that switch which includes the screw and I just dropped it off last night up here in Anchorage. So they are installing it complimentary. I'm cautiously optimistic. The recall was from 2002. Thanks for the earlier posts explaining the fritziness of a bad switch. It helps me understand more of what's up. Also I'm looking into doing work on the car myself and would like to buy a factory repair manual if anyone has a line on one. Or suggestions of what other manuals are helpful. Maybe if anyone reads this they can take advantage of the recall as well and save a few.
PS: Shoot me a private message with manual info. Thanks
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Old December 5th, 2014, 17:30   #49
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Just got off the phone with the dealer. They installed the new switch. That didn't fix the headlight problem. So after 3 hours of diagnosis they've informed me I need a new fuse box a load reduction relay and 2 connectors. And now my headlights don't work at all. Not too fun. Anybody got any info?
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Old December 5th, 2014, 18:23   #50
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I would clean the chassis grounds near the battery.

Tony
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Old December 5th, 2014, 18:56   #51
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Just got off the phone again and they said the plug that goes into the fuse box is melted in the white and green slots one of which is the headlights. they said they cant get the plug back in. Bummer. Is a new fuse box the only answer?
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Old December 5th, 2014, 20:08   #52
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I doubt it. I'd have to see what they're referencing (pictures) but may have what you need. The terminals are easy to remove from the fusebox so unless the box itself is melted I doubt you need a new one.

Here is a handy electrical diagram you'll probably want to bookmark: CE2.




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Last edited by Abacus; December 5th, 2014 at 20:24.
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Old December 5th, 2014, 21:18   #53
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WOW!! YEA!! That diagram rocks! On the pic the advisor sent me the affected part is either H1 or J. And of those 2 its the #1 slot. The part im confused about is in the diagram the position of the offset part at the bottom of the connector near the #9 position on H1 or the #10 position on J.
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Old December 5th, 2014, 22:15   #54
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That is where the connectors lock into the center bar. To remove the connectors, you have to slide the center bar over so the terminals will be released. If you don't, then the terminals won't come out since the bar locks them into place. The bar is a single bar that goes the whole length of the fusebox and it slides to one side to release the terminal locking tabs.

If you look at the blue connector in my second picture you can see the locking tab on the lower right.

I can get pics tomorrow so you can see it better.
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Old July 22nd, 2015, 20:03   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slam View Post
Next time I'm in here I might try to rewire the wiper lever positions. Am I the only one who is bugged that the lowest lever setting is "intermittent," not "off"? =)

I want it to go off>int>low>high, which only makes sense.
I agree with you slam!
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Old July 26th, 2015, 09:19   #56
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Default New switch.....woohoo

Thank you guys for the info! I chose the pull the steering column and was very quick. Hardest part was the lil screw holding the switch in place and working in the Florida heat. I used a long flat blade screw driver and caught the edge of the Phillips slot. Works great! Now I'm deciding if I wanna tackle the blend door while I have it partially apart.
Thanks again for the info! Who knows what the Stealership would of charged for this repair! Time for a cold drink!
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Old October 19th, 2015, 17:49   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windex View Post
The first time I replaced my switch, I removed the column. I used this method the second time, and it is faster, as long as you have to tools (bearing collar and puller shown above).
Note, the switch and housing will not come off unless the KEY IS IN THE ON POSITION. I made the mistake of beating on the switch/lock housing a little too much until I realized that the ignition lock was still holding it onto the column.
When you go to remove the switch housing, insert your key and turn it to "run".
This is how I'm doing it next time.
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Old March 13th, 2016, 15:12   #58
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Just finished doing the ignition switch in my Jetta. I pulled the column adapter off of the column using a tie rod puller that I already had. OEM #25297. It's just the right size to be able to provide an interference fit on the adapter, and just pulls it right off.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oe...2ZAaAgR58P8HAQ
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Old July 5th, 2016, 11:08   #59
laquerhead
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I replaced my switch this morning. I tried using the clips with a puller and it didn't go well. The clips rode over the projection in the collar started to damage it. So I tried vise grips but it didn't work. This is the first time the collar had been pulled so it didn't surprise me. It was stubborn after 19 years. I pulled the shaft and then put the collar in a vise and used pullers attached to the vise to break it loose. Then I removed the switch housing. This made it easier to get the screw out of the switch and also without all the weight on the top end of the shaft it was fairly easy to line the shaft up at the bottom. If you get in the same situation there is always something that will work.
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Old August 4th, 2016, 15:51   #60
ZachdkingNH
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Had to do this a few months back and figured I'd add my two cents- Removing the steering column was EASY! the puller method isn't worth it, at least not for me.
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