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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old November 9th, 2006, 07:42   #61
jollyGreenGiant
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Actually they put out OK light the problem really occurs when one leaves them on. They get all melty and the glass goes klink...
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Old November 9th, 2006, 19:19   #62
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"emiata" is a Chinese after-market parts supplier. They represent themselves as making a lot of replacement parts...quality unknown.
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Old November 9th, 2006, 19:35   #63
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I believe also ebayer Prothe. Has the same pump for the same price there.
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Old November 14th, 2006, 12:11   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runonbeer
That ain't no hex head boy!

required tool

try a search for "pump leak fix" or the like. its been done and documented before.
So is there anything else special about that bolt, other then the head? Could someone just slot the head, remove the bolt and replace it with something conventional?
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Old November 15th, 2006, 12:07   #65
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That HAS been done. It was mentioned in another post about leaky diesel fuel pump repait. They used a Dremel tool and cut a lot that a screwdriver would fit into tightly. Tightly, since the screws are pretty tight and you don't want to bugger the head when you try to undo it.
Bosch only did this to keep us out of the pump. Old pumps don't have this screw with special head.
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Old November 15th, 2006, 12:48   #66
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I have also seen something about just driving a 1/4 inch socket on it with a hammer. I have the special tool, so don't know the size socket to use.
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Old December 6th, 2006, 23:34   #67
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Thanks for the help, I replaced both seals, very easy to do with the instructions in this thread. The hammer mod was a bit tricky for me, because every time I tightened the bolts (clockwise motion pushed pump toward passenger side), the IP number would drop, so I set it high around 8 then tightened and ended up between 4 and 5, just where I wanted to be.
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Old December 6th, 2006, 23:35   #68
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Sorry I meant clockwise pushed pump toward driver side and reduced the IQ number
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Old December 19th, 2006, 14:23   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_G
I have also seen something about just driving a 1/4 inch socket
Ray
Figured it out (I measured the three flat sides of the bolt head), it's a 7mm 1/4" drive socket with three sides rounded. I went to the pawn shop and bought several 7mm sockets for trial and error and used a flexable shaft grinder with a small stone to modify three sides of the socket. Got it right the first time and fits like OEM. I'll have to post pictures. Total cost was $.50 and 3 minutes of my time.
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Old December 30th, 2006, 19:13   #70
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Yay! Just replaced the middle and upper seal in my IP today. Installed a new fuel temp sensor while I was in there too. Replaced all the copper crush washers too using the Bosch kit.

First time I sealed it back up, vag-com was reporting bizzaro iq amounts. hopping around between 0.2 and 1.2. Engine ran rough and sputtery. I took off the top half of the pump again, looked around, all looked good, so I put it back together. Started it again and had a smooth idle with iq of 1.8. hurray! so a few whacks of the mallet and I was up at 3.4. Perfect. Tightened everything down, went for a test drive, and measured again. 3.6 at NOT. Doesn't get much better than that!

I used the metalnerd IP socket, a Panasonic Toughbook running latest VAG-COM version and Hex-Com cable, and a complete ip reseal kit from bosch.
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Old January 3rd, 2007, 21:52   #71
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Hey folks. my leaky pump is about to be replaced with a 100K mile used one from L and T enterprizes. I am also replacing the 3-way coolant hose, and will be ordering injectors. I have VAGcom, cam plate, locking pin and regular tools. After this is done, I will probably be selling my leaky pump for a rebuild.

Can you recommend any other helpful tools or parts I might need? Looks like I need a gear puller and some other Harbor Freight tools.
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Old January 4th, 2007, 07:33   #72
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24mm and 7mm ( i think ) wrench for the fuel stop solenoid, floor jack or top-side engine support ( assuming this is for an A4 engine, not needed for the B4 ). Gear puller not needed for the B4 either ( you can use a drift from behind ), just the A4 and the Metalnerd one is really the absolute best one for this. Other than that just a good set of hand tools. Oh, a Mityvac or equivalent too.

For the injectors, if they're really stubborn you might need an injector puller available from Metalnerd.

Sent you an IM about that old pump...

This is just like
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Old January 5th, 2007, 07:22   #73
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At 72k it appears that I have a failed middle seal.

Read through this and a couple other threads as well as a few How-To's, ordered the kit and the tool....

The only thing I am concerned about is the Hammer mod...not so much the hammer mod and direction and such, but the Vag-Com portion of it.
Are there any screen shots anywhere that show what I am supposed to be looking at?

I entered 08Engine...then 000 and it gives me the 7 boxes...am I supposed to be looking at box#4? That is the only thing I could get out of the Vag-Com site.
Also, I am unclear if the engine should be running or not. Can it be done both ways?


Doing this on Sunday and would really like some feedback if possible.

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Last edited by marvins_dad; January 5th, 2007 at 07:25.
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Old January 5th, 2007, 07:43   #74
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Marvin, in case I wasn't clear before, just take a scribe and scribe through that yellow paint and line up the marks when done. Then check and do the tap-tap.
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Old January 5th, 2007, 11:38   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitedog
Marvin, in case I wasn't clear before, just take a scribe and scribe through that yellow paint and line up the marks when done. Then check and do the tap-tap.
Got the scribing thing, but the Vag Com element to fine tune it and check for exact alignment is what I am unclear of.
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