seabassisanalien
Member
probably going to do another straight week of overnights at the mill and days at the body shop before I'll have the cash on hand to fully complete this!
Thank you, Mark! It is nice to be appreciated. And also to you, Vanbcguy!
By the way, that is a really neat picture, with the record-player shiny valves, but what is the light beam coming from the bottom of the head? A flux generator?
Don't burn yourself on the pulse generator.
Moroza,
I have to disagree with you on a few points.
1. The cam alignment can actually take some 'abuse'. There is an about 1-2 degrees of positive movement on the cam that can improve hp. That has been proven with cams like our Stage II ALH and PD cams.
2. The usual reason that a warped head that is milled does not cause cam issues is that the warp is minimal and the cam caps have not been given proper clearance. We don't often mention this facet of cylinder head reconditioning, but the wear in the caps causes the top cam cap to wear egg-shaped. The cap contact face must be reduced to create proper cam clearance. This is one of the places that can cause insufficient oi pressure in the ALH/ AHU and previous OHC engines. But, adjusting cap clearances will also cause the cam to bind in a warped cylinder head when the correct .001"-.0015" cam cap clearances are maintained. We have seen cam alignment is sometimes warped as much as .006". Correct only the cam caps and you will burn the cam, usually at the #1 journal.
3. We do use the dealership for many items, as they are the only place to get genuine, however any of the vendors for VW, such as Kolbenschmidt, Victor Reinz, Nural and a myriad of others, we can get much better pricing for the exact same item. One of the items we buy aftermarket are head bolts, with thousands purchased; no issues.
4. Last, tooling... We provide tooling for purchase or rent. I suppose you could write a program to CNC a tool, but I think borrowing them works more time-efficiently. That does not mean we do not admire and employ CNC machines. We do and will be adding more machinery with announcement for 'Grand Opening', hopefully very soon.
Todd,
We have seen too many disasters when attempting to install bearings similar to a PD head in an ALH/AHU cylinder head. Although I believe it is possible to repair in that manner, we think by the time you get it right, the cost will dictate to junk the head. However, we have and continually do repair warped align bores with a custom-made align bore bar. Although you could probably get some company to set up with a align boring machine, it's usually around $250 for the setup and cut. Our cost is most typically under $100. The other problem is that the bar needed is smaller than what is generally used, so nobody has one. That is the reason for our custom align bar. We are only one of two I know who have one.
wow Todd, should've bought your VR bolts, I paid 27 for mine :/Stock were bolts not studs. 068103384A
I bought a few sets of these.
http://www.idparts.com/head-bolt-set-1zahualh-p-627.html
-Todd
Hey vanguy,Bentley is the manual of choice. It's the "official" VW book and covers things in much more detail than a Haynes book.
I can't say what the head milling spec is. I believe valve head height comes in to it though.
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Ah, good question actually... I have the Bentley for both the A3 and the B3 platform as I've had both vehicles. The A3 one has the AAZ/AHU info while the B3 one has all the chassis / wiring / brake / suspension etc stuff specific to the car.
I was surprised at how limited the B3 manual was compared to the A3 one. Still waaaaay better than the Haynes and definitely necessary (solved a wiring short last week for instance that I never could have sorted without the diagrams).
I'm assuming you have a B4, can anyone comment on the TDI coverage in that version?
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The B4 has the same engines as the A3, more or less... Canadian A3 cars were available with a TBI 1.8 as yet another option. The B3 shares the VR6 and AAZ with the A3 platform but also has its own 1.8 16V variety.
The TDI found in the B4 was engine code 1Z while the TDI in the A3 was AHU, but they're virtually identical. The specs etc are all the same. There's some subtle differences in very early 1Z engines but nothing that's really going to show up in a Bentley. They use a different turbo, but it performs the same. All the diagnostic procedures etc are the same.
Youll definitely need the B4 book for stuff like brakes, wiring, ABS (if equipped), anything body related, etc. Wouldn't be the worst thing in the world to snatch about A3 Bentley if you find one cheap.
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oooh, , fancy, a hardcover, how pro-shop-oriented.The version I have;
Volkswagen Jetta, Golf, GTI, Cabrio Service Manual
Otherwise same numbers as above. Mine is the hardcover edition so that may be the source of the different numbers.