p0544 Sensor 1 for exhaust temp bank 1 (G235)

Ausch

Active member
Joined
Dec 12, 2013
Location
Long Island, NY
TDI
2013 Jetta MT
I just want to post some details about my EGT issue as I haven't seen anyone else mention this.

While driving my 2013 Jetta TDI with ~78,000 miles, I had the glow plug light blinking and the CEL eventually came on. Generic OBD2 scanner showed P0544 EGT sensor bank 1 sensor 1. This was right at the beginning of an important trip so I used the Torque app to monitor the temps. Everything seemed usual except the pre-turbo temp would occasionally max out to 1800 F, even during situations that didn't make sense like coasting or engine braking down hill. Similarly, the DPF temp seemed a little low ~600F for highway driving and would slowly drop over time.

As I mentioned this was an important trip so I decided to keep driving, clear the codes to see if they came back, and simply monitor the temps. During the 250 mile drive to Baltimore, the codes did continue to return and random intervals. The following morning, the car started and completed a regen. Although the engine sounded terrible while performing an active regen at idle (like it was bogging down?) with noticeably stronger shaking.

After driving around the city for ~50 miles, I drove back to NY with another ~250 highway miles. The following morning the car completed another active regen.


I'm not really sure what's going on, my guess is that the sensor is in the process of breaking but as it still gives seemingly accurate temperatures most of the time, the car is still able to initiate and complete regens (it also continues to perform the regen although the reported value will sporadically spike to 1800+ and then rapidly return to ~1200F). Having read this thread, I believe I got extremely lucky with that trip and could have easily faced a major DPF clog in the middle of NJ. Now to decide whether I fix the sensor or begin the buyback now rather than Aug 2018.
 

MakDad

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Location
McDonough, GA
TDI
2012 Jetta.
Not sure about everyone else, but if you had the emissions upgrade done, these sensors should be under their emissions warranty. I believe it's 3 years.
 

diesel dane

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Location
Nashville TN
TDI
2010 Sportwagon 2001 jetta
Ok. Need help. 2015 Passat tdi. I deleted with rawtek and Malone stage 2 last week. Instantly got exhaust bank one code. I put a new sensor on and code still remains. Does any one know what the resistance should be at so I can check new sensor? Otherwise I’m at a loss. I thought maybe I hit the sensor when I took out the dpf. I have vcds. Shows it at 1000 degrees Celsius which I’m assuming is just default “I’m broke” reading. Any help would be great.
 

diesel dane

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2011
Location
Nashville TN
TDI
2010 Sportwagon 2001 jetta
Checked continuity on both sides of plug. Showed good. Ohm resistance reading on my fluke was 267 ohms on the new sensor and 227 on the old. Seems that maybe both were good? Anybody have any thoughts here? Getting pretty frustrated.
 

jtskir222

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Location
vt
TDI
2014 jetta wagon tdi 2015 passat b7 tdi
malone tune

i just installed delete and stage 2 tune myself and have the same problem.
what did you do to fix it?
2015 passat tdi
 
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Diesl

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2012
Location
Chicago
TDI
'78 Golf Diesel (long gone); 2012 Jetta Sportwagen TDI w/ DSG
Dieseldane, jtskir: The ('EGT1 implausible') codes after a DPF& EGR removal might not be related to the physical temperature sensor, but to the ECU reprogramming necessary after removing these components. Maybe the wrong program was loaded? Or maybe some adjustment ('adaptation') still has to be done within VCDS? This thread describes how to replace the physical temperature sensor itself.
Your questions might get better answers in a forum related to the ECU reprogramming/tune.
 

jtskir222

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Location
vt
TDI
2014 jetta wagon tdi 2015 passat b7 tdi
Dieseldane, jtskir: The ('EGT1 implausible') codes after a DPF& EGR removal might not be related to the physical temperature sensor, but to the ECU reprogramming necessary after removing these components. Maybe the wrong program was loaded? Or maybe some adjustment ('adaptation') still has to be done within VCDS? This thread describes how to replace the physical temperature sensor itself.
Your questions might get better answers in a forum related to the ECU reprogramming/tune.

it was a sensor plugged into the wrong plug. needed to be plugged in under the eng cover...
thanks
 

ivan1111

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A5 2.0TDI 100kw
Can you tell me, Is it better to remove sensor when engine is hot (usually is better for all components on exhaust system)?
Or you didn't have any problem to unscrew sensor nut?
 

ivan1111

Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2011
Location
Croatia
TDI
Audi A5 2.0TDI 100kw
I replaced sensor on A3 1.9TDI PD yesterday.
So my experiance:
Sensor is no L type, it has a little bend metal part close to sensor, so with modified socked 17mm is not possible to remove.
I replaced sensor completely from under the car, remove main frame, EGR valve metal duct and with regular open wrench 17 mm removed sensor.

Installation is in opposite way with two new gaskets for EGR duct.
 

JD_2012GolfTDI

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2019
Location
CA
TDI
2012 Golf Kerma tuned
Andrew @2micron and @robertsparker thank you for the content! You gave me the info (confidence) to do this job. This thread is still helping folks! Special socket and extending mirror mad the job possible for me. I failed to crack the egt loose the first day.

The day after my first attempt at the job the DPF icon illuminated on the dash giving me a sinking feeling that I was killing my car. Thankfully I have both the PolarFIS and VagCom so I can see the soot build up was only 9g. I decided to detach the old sensor and attach the new one, simply to defeat the regens from not occurring and headed uphill on hwy 50 to build heat and burn of the soot. Mission achieved! Regen occurred and soot was back to zero.

I was finally able to crack the sensor loose using my left hand, when standing over passenger fender and pulling up with all I had.

Underneath the vehicle I pulled the sensor down, snipped the zip tie and cut the wire in half to make it easier to pull out. Also routing the wire from underneath allowed me to zip tie again to keep it away from exhaust and oil lines and then back up around turbo.

Installation from above using the mirror again was fairly easy (skinny wrists, forearms) I still got beat up though. Once it was seated by hand, I rotated the elbow toward the passenger side, so that when I torqued the nut down the elbow would swing down to the right but not contact any other lines. It hardly rotates at all from hand tight, so I had to loosen it once again and not rotate the elbow quite so far to the left. It ended up just slightly canted left to the passenger side and not touching anything. Codes cleared and all is good at ~87,000 miles.


 
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calimustang

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Location
Central FL
TDI
2011 JSW DSG (buyback, RIP), 2014 JSW TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2013 Jetta TDI.
yep 2micron are awesome! I talk to him from time to time. :)
 

cdzero

Member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Location
North Carolina
TDI
2012 Jetta TDI
G235 Bank One temperature sensor replacement guide -P0455


Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
I recieved a flashing Glow Plug and a P0544 code.
VCDS will tell you G235 and which Bank is faulty.
The Part number for my VIN was 03L-906-088L.
This is the sensor with the Black Connector, which is easy to locate the connector portion. Your G235 Connector is the black one, below the Orange Connector.

.
The threaded portion of the sensor is just below the Turbo, threaded into the Exhaust Manifold. Not a very friendly location!! (Item#37)

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I didn't have time to wait for the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) so I simply modified a 17mm deep 3/8" drive impact socket. You can do this with an angle grinder and cut off disc.
.
Here's the new sensor and it works best with a flex head ratchet and 6" extension.
The easiest access is from above, once you locate it!!! You still have to remove the belly pan and access the bottom to route the wires properly.
.Here are some basic steps:
- safely raise car and remove belly pan.
- locate the black connector and simply pull it out of its steel attacment firewall clip. Typical VW connector, squeeze the tab inwards with your thumb, while compressing the two connectors together. This easily releases the connection. Do not use screwdrivers to pry or lift tabs!!
- gently unfasten the loom and unclip the plastic and steel holders.
- pay attention to the routing from under the car!!
I removed this cover (17mm wrench) to help see the wire routing:
.
- fully seat the socket and remove sensor from above.
- coat the threads of the new sensor with high temp thread anti-seize. Do not get any on the sensor tip. Avoid touching the tip, similar to the cautions you use with headlight bulbs!!
.
I struggled to get the sensor in from the top. I made up this Push Stick from a coat hanger to guide and insert the sensor from the bottom:
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Make it about 12" long!
.
Up she goes!!

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- Tighten the sensor from above, ensuring the angled tube is not touching the oil line. Official Torque is 45 Nm or 33 foot pounds.
**you have to re-index the socket every 1/3 turn, so the angled tube doesn't contact the socket body!!!**
- carefully re-route the wire, replace the zip tie and clips.
- insert the connectors and test pull apart to make sure they are locked.
Make sure the wire can not contact the EGR filter or DPF.
- reinstall the plastic driveshaft shield and belly pan..
Avoid prolonging changing this sensor. While it is faulty, no regens will happen. I left mine for about 250 miles, to be rewarded with a DPF light. Thankfully, after about 50 miles, the DPF light went out!!
Here is more information and a great site!!:
http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.com/golf-mk6/index.php?id=5185 .
Hope this helps,
Please feel free to add any more tips!
All the best,
Andrew

THANK YOU! Years later your post is still helping!
 

TillModel3

New member
Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Location
Flagstaff
TDI
2011 JSW manual 6sp
Just got the P0544 and blinking GPL on a trip through Utah. 2011 Sportwagen. Drives just fine, except for slightly less gas mileage than I expected (just bought this car in Portland a couple days ago, driving it home). From what I'm reading here, I can fix this myself at home. Question is: How bad for the car is it to drive the last 500 miles to northern AZ with this fault? One person wrote that they drove 250 Mike's and it was fine, but several say some drive it at all. Should I bite the bullet and pay a mechanic while I'm in Salt Lake City? If ruin my dpf would it ruin anything else? Maybe I'll just change the dpf too when I get home?
 
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Mrrogers1

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2006
Location
Omaha NEEEBRASKA
TDI
2011 Golf TDI 6MT, 2011 Jetta TDI DSG, 2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI DSG
Just got the P0544 and blinking GPL on a trip through Utah. 2011 Sportwagen. Drives just fine, except for slightly less gas mileage than I expected (just bought this car in Portland a couple days ago, driving it home). From what I'm reading here, I can fix this myself at home. Question is: How bad for the car is it to drive the last 500 miles to northern AZ with this fault? One person wrote that they drove 250 Mike's and it was fine, but several say some drive it at all. Should I bite the bullet and pay a mechanic while I'm in Salt Lake City? If ruin my dpf would it ruin anything else? Maybe I'll just change the dpf too when I get home?
You will be JUST fine driving it 500, don't pay someone there. When the car is SERIOUSLY pissed about you driving with a MIL on, it'll go into limp mode but I don't know that I've ever heard of anyone having that happen from this sensor.
 

AGLTDI

New member
Joined
Jan 9, 2024
Location
Ontario
TDI
2013 Golf MK6 CJAA
G235 Bank One temperature sensor replacement guide -P0455
Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
........................................
That's a great post on a total pain of a job. What were the VW engineers thinking? Perhaps they get bonuses if they increase dealer revenue. Make a procedure that takes hours to boost the flat-rate quoted and then take shortcuts like this:

I took out the EGR filter (you'll need a new gasket and be careful no to overtighten the clamp) You'll need a 1/4 drive 13mm socket with a collection of extensions to get it out. (or was that 12mm?)
Cut off the metal wire cover at the sensor with a Dremel so I could get a normal socket in there. The biggest handle that fits is a 3/8 and you'll have to grunt, but the ergonomics are OK.
Follow the wire back to the connector on the firewall. In my car the connector location was the top one (black) which doesn't match the tutorial, or the manual either. Perhaps some PO or Dieselgate tech twiddled with this before.
Install the new sensor with a special tool. I bought mine on Amazon (next day) It was for a Power Stroke 6.7L but it worked fine. 17mm
You can't get the wire back on exactly the same route because it was installed at the factory before other junk was installed on top of it, but just keep it away from heat and movement. A pain to wiggle it in there. (but the whole job is a pain)
I can't believe how long it took to R+R one nut to get the sensor out, and one connector to unclip. I was stiff and sore from all the climbing from under the car to the toolbox and back under the car 1000 times. Only skinned one knuckle.

BTW, the "L" is for 2010 models of the CJAA, and the EJ is for later cars. Mine's a 2013 and the EJ looks fine on the VDCS and the error code is gone. I had to reset right in the engine module.

Anyway, good luck and you have my condolences. ;-)
 

GlenM

New member
Joined
Feb 6, 2024
Location
UK
TDI
2009 Tiguan Tdi 140 BHP
My Daughter’s 2009 Tiguan had the glow plug light, then the EML just before Christmas.
I read the codes and got P0544, so I bought a new sensor.
She was still using the car a lot, so she had the DPF warning message come up a few days ago and I changed the sensor the following day.
It wasn’t too bad from under the car, using the special socket. I didn’t have to remove anything and fortunately I have very long arms. I cleared the code and all the lights went out but it still had the DPF warning.
About 8 miles into a 20 mile journey the DPF warning went off, and it stayed off for the 20 mile return trip. I thought I had sorted it. However, a few miles into another journey and the glow plug warning came on. I read the codes again and got P0544. I cleared it but the light came straight back in and was soon followed by the EML. The DPF warning hasn’t returned yet.
However, I am now at a loss as to how to investigate further.
 
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