2.0 CR big turbo build, aiming to set WR

Rub87

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lol dude, youre really wasting your time. that isnt a dyno, that is a joke. I time your run, its 2.7 sec LMAO

My advice as tuner is, tune the car on the road, not on that thing which you believe to be a dyno. then when its good on the road, concerning boostcontrol, smoke, egt. then take it to a dyno to see what it makes. and use a dyno with enough inertia, high enough gear, or a dyno with brake, so the run takes let say 10 to 15 sec.

what you do in this movie is 100% waste of time and effort.
 

Macradiators.com

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2.0 CR 360hp
If i take it to your superflow i make 400 for sure
video is just for fun, doesnt mean anything, we'll let the acceleration time tell the story
Dont worry Ruben, when its done how we want it to be ..will be measured independently in 5th, but im sure 10hz times will tell us how it goes.
 
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Rub87

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Sure, come and bring it, I bet your is headcracked long time before you even reach romanian border , if this is the kind of dyno testing you use to 'tune' a car :D
 

Rub87

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Oh no, wait, now I realise, time goes faster around where you guys hang out, like that 7sec 100-200 A5 video.:cool:
 

Macradiators.com

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Could be Ruben , could be. this world of tuning is a nasty one, being serious about it.
Curious how much worse i do than yout 11.6seconds 465hp a6
I did not do any test.

Ill go to the dyno where 420hp cars run 11.6 and 11.9 seconds, im prepared to cry
 
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Macradiators.com

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Pretty **** isn't it? ;)
I have a feeling ....
Ruben is right in the end, run should of been in 5th which is 150-160km/h gear

Im also sure in 2 days there will be an interesting topic to read for all the "fast" tuners on this forum.
 
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mrchill

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Actually...the gear closest to 1:1 should be used to reduce the chances of multiplication. Thats is often 4th.
 

hatemi

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That shouldnt matter if you dont use uncorrected whp.

Lähetetty minun Moto G (4) laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 

turbobrick240

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Dyno vids are always good stuff. And now I know to ask the dyno operator for a 10-15 sec. run when I get my car dynoed. But I think world record bragging rights will require a time slip.
 

mrchill

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The only way to win the bragging rights war is to get all the talkers on one land mass with their cars. Drive a minimum of 600 miles to a dyno at sea level....and dyno all the cars on the same day, by the same operator under the same conditions. That will never happen. Not because it cant be organized...but because even if it was....lots of the talkers would find reasons not to show.
 

Macradiators.com

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Anyway i agree, next dyno run will be on independent dyno, known for his accuracy.
Probably 5th gear.
I want to know exactly what i have, fake numbers dont bring me any comfort.

Ruben: i drove 500km from Bucharest to the border already ;) dont be so mean
 

Macradiators.com

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10hz arriving tomorrow, it should
make your bets for the 100-200km/h acceleration

some new upgrades, it aint over :D


 
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Macradiators.com

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lighter version for Chriss for CP3. i have to remove camshafts in 2-3 weeks maybe and remap the gearbox
it seems tvs engineering is the only way to go , pretty damn expensive also :(
at current torque levels it doesnt know what to do ..how to change
 

Rub87

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I made mine also from alu. I didnt like the steel version of Andy, as it was made on a mill, not on a lathe and the tolerance/roundness made for it to be almost impossible to remove gear from the hub after some time. then I made in alu, with the step like stock.

I didnt do for weight as I think more weight is better for less torque fluctuation on belt. jI sued alu just because I didnt have a good small bore chisel to make the cone in steel so alu cut much easier.

Tbh if I where you I would have not put the chamfer on the front corner but made a step just like stock. the 2 main important faces are the frontal, which you now already screwed a bit by drawing the bolt locations, and the rear 10mm cylindrical section. ideally zou make cone, front and cylindrical surface without removing from lathe, so you are sure its 100% true. then make holes with mill and x-y table or on lathe if you have a holder for drill and degree wheel.
 
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Macradiators.com

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Yes its a pita to make it in steel but i'm afraid to make it in alu tbh.
i have 7075 alloy here but still wont risk it, dont know if it will take the stress over time.
Worst part is parting off 55mm diameter with undersized 3mm carbide cutter
0.05-0.075mm smaller than the sprocket, it rotates perfectly and never seize inside
 
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Rub87

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just restrt and think before u start place the stock only required length out of lathe, then u dont need support. then drill hole deep enough, then use a small 6mm bore chisel to make cone and pocket in front. then use normal chisel to make front face and outside cylinderical surfce, and the step required to make it clear the pump support hole. after all is done just use parting tool to part it off.

et voila. u made a 100% true workpiece without removing from lathe =)

I re centerd on drill afterwards and used x-y coordinates to make the 3 holes.
 

Macradiators.com

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Yes, i make it like that, boring bar for the cone + outside diameter 54.95 without removing it.
Just the top face is cut 1-1.5mm taller , i make test and see how much to remove.
I install it on pump ax to have it true to 0 and make final adjustments, so all surfaces are true to each other.
 
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[486]

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I didnt do for weight as I think more weight is better for less torque fluctuation on belt. jI sued alu just because I didnt have a good small bore chisel to make the cone in steel so alu cut much easier.
In english the metal lathe cutter is just called a "tool" or "tool bit" rather than 'chisel' and the one you use for inside bores is a "boring bar" which can do the cutting on its own, or alternatively be of the style that holds a carbide insert or HSS tool bit
No offense intended, it's just that your english is generally very good

You could use leaded brass to get more weight than steel and still be easily machinable
 

Macradiators.com

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Well i put back the aux pump on the car , no more limp after 5100rpm low pressure but get it for high pressure at low rpm
Trying new map ..just drove 5km and no limp, sometimes i get it in 100ft at low rpm.
So gonna get my laptop and do some logs till i get new high pressure error.
Its a learning process.

The peugeot cp3 doesnt seem to have pressure valve on intake to control pressure.

@Ruben: do i have to drive to Belgium to get a decent remap for the dq500? :D
 

Macradiators.com

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Writing a software now and take if for a spin to see if rail pressure behaves nicely now.
Did not touch the gearbox software, i think factory limit is set at 450nm by default on the q3 audi
Still not working..gonna be a long battle
 
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