Solid lifters

Looking to convert over to solid lifters. I seen a post about 1.7 diesel Nissan lifters but what lash caps

older vw 1.6D and even older 1.5D motors also had solid lifters available

pain in the ass, gotta take the cam out to adjust lash
No performance advantage, so why?

I looked into it a while back in relation to a jake brake, turning some solid exhaust lifters with hydraulic pistons in them to be actuated by a separate pump cylinder opening the exhaust valve right before TDC. Plug off the lifter galley to the exhaust lifters and run individual pipes to each one from the pump cylinders. Never really went anywhere.

Well last 2 years I built this engine I’d do a pull to 5500 rpms and let off it would start ticking and missing. You can hear it out the exhaust then it goes away. I was told to put black coated lifters in it and now it still does it. Idk what else it could be. I have a oil pressure gauge in it and it’s perfect. So now I’m after a solid lifter set up.

IndigoBlueWagon and jsrmonster have both run 5500+ RPM in their rides with no changes to the lifters and no reported issues with them. The TDI lifters are exactly the same technology used in gasser engines that routinely do 6000+ RPM. No need to search for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. The problem is elsewhere.

Agreed, your problem is somewhere else.

But in response to one of the above posts, you most certainly do NOT have to remove the camshaft to adjust the shims on the solid lifter VAG engines. There are tools specific for that exact job.

BigTurboAlh said:

Well last 2 years I built this engine I’d do a pull to 5500 rpms and let off it would start ticking and missing. You can hear it out the exhaust then it goes away. I was told to put black coated lifters in it and now it still does it. Idk what else it could be. I have a oil pressure gauge in it and it’s perfect. So now I’m after a solid lifter set up.

Click to expand...

Have you got an exhaust manifold pressure gauge?



How is your compound setup plumbed on the exhaust side is your bypass valve staying open when you let off?



High EMP can blow the valves open at tdc and then lifters will fill up to take up the space.

+1 above. EMP was my first thought as well.

How much boost are they running? I see 48 on a small tune 62 on a big tune. Mine did this with a single charger and a hole different head. I guess I’ll put a drive gauge on it. That hx30 is plumbed into the hx40s outlet. If I plumb the 30 into the manifold it won’t light the 40.

I'll ask again, How is your setup plumbed on the exhaust "drive" side of the turbos?



62psi could be mega emp if the wrong things happen on the turbine side..

There is no external waste gate. The hx30 is 6cm has a internal waste gate that I ported to just under 1inch. It opens gate at 20psi It goes out the hx30 into the 21cm hx40. I’ve only did 2 pulls to 62

It sounds as if you have the turbos plumbed in reverse of usual practice.

On the hot side, it is almost universally exhaust manifold > small turbine > big turbine > atmosphere.

And just to double check, the cold side is almost universally atmosphere > big compressor > (optional interstage cooler) > small compressor > aftercooler > intake manifold.

I've done extensive simulation work, plumbing any other way greatly increases EMP and is also counterproductive to the desired outcome. Search "A4R4" here.

BigTurboAlh said:

How much boost are they running? I see 48 on a small tune 62 on a big tune. Mine did this with a single charger and a hole different head. I guess I’ll put a drive gauge on it. That hx30 is plumbed into the hx40s outlet. If I plumb the 30 into the manifold it won’t light the 40.

Click to expand...

BigTurboAlh said:

There is no external waste gate. The hx30 is 6cm has a internal waste gate that I ported to just under 1inch. It opens gate at 20psi It goes out the hx30 into the 21cm hx40. I’ve only did 2 pulls to 62

Click to expand...

I’ve done many installs on Cummins. Set up exact same way hx40 is atmospheric and is also out
https://ibb.co/nOkaoy

Well the picture looks fine but it does not match the description in the text...

Still, measure pressure at the exhaust manifold and let us know the result.

Yeah well there is a down pipe coming out of the 40 I promise ya lol I’ll get a gauge on it and let you know

Back to the topic
Solid lifter cams. might be looking into a g grind cam. Does anyone know of a drop in cam? Or someone that will make one?

Making sure that the engine oil is up to operating temperature is one crucial thing with higher boost/rpm.

Stronger dual valve springs are nice to have also.I use 8v gasser performance dual springs on my ALH based cylinder heads.

One major issue can be high egt's combined with tight exhaust valve guides.I run loose exh valve guides to help.

I run solid lifters that were converted from hydraulic lifters.We removed the hydraulic piston and inserted a hardened steel slug that was then ground to achieve the desired lash.lots of work on the surface grinder to get the job done !

I'm thinking that there is a big gap in tubine size too.Not sure what your exhaust manifold pressure is at full boost when compared to boost pressure.I'd ditch the hx40 turbine for a hx35/h1C wastegated wheel/housing.

The 4bt guys run an hx35 with the hx30w.

I've tried the old 1.5/1.6 style lifters but had the disc's come out of position when the valves floated due to tight exh valve guides.

If you're running the small oil pump sprocket (BRM?), I hear guys in europe were having trouble with the pump cavitating above 5500 engine RPM

@andy2 Engine is up to operating temp every time. I have dual valve springs. But might get tt springs here soon.thats the first I’ve heard about the exhaust guide and egts how loose you run them. The hx40 has a hx35 wheel with 21cm housing. I had a 18.5cm on it but I liked the 21cm better cooler egts. I thought the 1.5/1.6 lifters was too small for the alh head?

@486 it does have a small pump gear on it. That’s probly what’s happening.

BigTurboAlh said:

@486 it does have a small pump gear on it. That’s probly what’s happening.

Click to expand...

I'm running 0w40 in mine with the small gear, hopefully it's enough, if not it might need a bigger pickup screen and pipe
Pretty sure my limiter's up around 5500 and haven't noticed any ticking yet, I'm only running the stock idiot light for oil pressure

5w40 in mine my limiter is at 6000. I have 18psi at idle with it warm. At 2500 it’s at 47psi.
It will go above a 100psi 5000

In that case, you may well be pumping up the lifters. I'd have to do the math on the diameter of the pill in the tappet, but all my spare lifters are neatly crated up in an assembled spare head. If that is the case, then stiffer valvesprings would be a remedy

what is your valve spring setup?

It has dual valve springs. Maybe I’ll get some tt springs for a aba?

Sorry to be blunt, but dual springs mean squat to help you. What's the pre-load and rate? Or at least where did they originally come from?

Still convinced the lifter type is farthest from your problem.

Stock outer springs inners from a aba maybe not sure. It doesn’t just do it during a pull either. Other night I ran to Walmart went in got some stuff came out started it and it started ticking sounding like a valve hung open. Then 10 mins of driving it went away. I have no problems adjusting valves either. I want lighter valve train and bullet proof. I’m not buying another set of lifters and a cam for it to do the same thing again. Whether it be boost drive pressure or oil cavitation I bet it never does it again with solid lifters. If I didn’t flycut my pistons .120 I would probly have valves bent right now.

BigTurboAlh said:

@andy2 Engine is up to operating temp every time. I have dual valve springs. But might get tt springs here soon.thats the first I’ve heard about the exhaust guide and egts how loose you run them. The hx40 has a hx35 wheel with 21cm housing. I had a 18.5cm on it but I liked the 21cm better cooler egts. I thought the 1.5/1.6 lifters was too small for the alh head?

@486 it does have a small pump gear on it. That’s probly what’s happening.

Click to expand...

I can't recall just how loose I run the exhaust valve guide to stem clearance only that they are likely at the maximum limit for the OE tolerance.

[486] said:

older vw 1.6D and even older 1.5D motors also had solid lifters available

pain in the ass, gotta take the cam out to adjust lash

Click to expand...

there is a special depressor tool that lets you remove the shim without removing the cam

Definitely check for guide bind...When modified, these heads need custom tolerances...and if the tolerances are stock, its possible for bind to occur. Make sure your oil pressure isnt too high or low...but also make sure volume is constant. Check your tensioner. If it isnt adjusted properly, or if it is backing up too far, the belt can come out of index and tap the valves. Also, if the piston projection is too close, the valves will tap under heavy load. All of those things affect the cam followers operation. For springs, use performance double springs(this isnt likely your problem). ABA arent good enough. TT does make a good set for Tdi. And as others have said, make sure EMP isnt too high.

^^ what Chill said..

With mine, we also had to loosen up the exhaust valve guide clearance some since I was having some sticking after a long pull with high EGT (misfires/lifter noise).. I'm only running a single turbo at 38-40psi (never measured EMP with this setup) but it doesn't stop pulling until the fuel cut which is currently over 6000rpm. standard INA PD lifters with 11mm of valve lift and TT springs. With the stock sprigs and camshaft, I was getting valve float at 4800 and 32psi..

What year/engine for the tt springs? I’m currently building a completely different engine for the truck.

honestly I don't remember since it was almost a decade ago... Pretty sure we just called them and told them what we were doing and they sent us the springs. Wild Bill did the head work. They may have been the regular 8V springs they sell for use with basically every hydraulic lifter 8V engine up to 6500rpm with 260-280 camshafts.. They also have race springs good for 9000rpm and 13mm of valve lift..