Beetle Strut and Shock Mounts Needed?

Our 2000 Beetle with only 91k miles on it needs the struts and shocks replaced. Developed cupping and tire noise in the rear and mechanic said shocks gone, and one front strut starting to leak. So, with only 91k, do I buy the whole suspension installation kit like KermaTDI sells for $109, or are those parts likely to be good and stay so for a while yet? One factor I'm considering is the effect of age despite the low mileage. In the past I've gotten the replacement bolt kits for my Jetta for another $30, but even KermaTDI's page suggest many re-use them successfully. Any thoughts? This one is going to be at least partly on my daughter's dime, so was trying to be more sensitive on costs, but don't want to have a significant risk of pulling it all apart again later and replacing these parts.

That will depend if you are reusing your old spring or buying ready struts. If you are buying ready struts most of that stuff isn’t needed. You will need to buy the bushing/bearings that connect the struts/shocks to the car. I wouldn’t reuse Any rubber items. Even with lower mileage they are 18 years old and more than likely severely rotten

Re-using springs for sure. With my daughter driving, being the old 4-speed slushbox automatic (what a dog!), unchipped, etc., not looking to do anything radical, just mildly improve handling over stock, which the struts & shocks should provide.

Is the rear shock mount rubber? Hard to tell from pic, and Kerma sells separately as an option.

Absolutely replace the strut mounts. You might get away without replacing the shock mounts, but I'd look at them before putting them back in. There's a rubber bushing near the center of the mount: If that's cracked I'd replace them.

Also, cupping and tire noise may indicate worn control arm or rear axle bushings. You should look at those, too. Despite the low mileage those parts may have deteriorated with time and be causing the tire cupping you mention.

Since this car hasn't been apart for 18+ years, I'd want a new bolt kit on hand in case you damage one removing it. And you'll be removing all the same bolts whether you buy quick struts or re-use your springs.

Thanks!

Oy vey! Just did some reading on rear axle bushing replacement, and it appears it is an absolute bear of a job. Sadly, it appears ours may need it, as apparently one symptom is the wear being on the inner rear treads, which is where we have it on both sides. Funny I had a 2002 Jetta which never needed it in 314k miles and 13 years. Is this something shops can do for a reasonable price? I've seen posts saying the dealer won't do it (not that's what I'd be using), and that the rear axle needs to be dropped, though some post suggesting it can be done in car. What a mess! I don't know if the uneven wear is slow enough that I can cover with regular rotation - doubt it.

Put the car in the air and shine a light on the bushings. Look for cracks. They might be OK, and a really bad shock may also affect tire wear. These cars have a little negative camber in the rear always, and if you've not rotated the tires you can get cupping and inner tread wear.

Honestly not sure when they were last rotated. With the car gone most of the year I got a little sloppy on some maintenance. There's no thunking over bumps at speed as many report, but apparently they don't all do that when they fail, from what I've read. I know the mechanic was definitely truthful on the front strut - dust cover all wet.

The amount of time you may save buy buying quick strutsmay be more than the price difference if paying a mechanic to disassemble and reassemble. Rock auto has some very good deals on parts. Just buy a name brand

ktmkris said:

The amount of time you may save buy buying quick strutsmay be more than the price difference if paying a mechanic to disassemble and reassemble. Rock auto has some very good deals on parts. Just buy a name brand

Click to expand...

You think so? It's really only a 10 minute job per side. And it's a shame to buy springs that the OP probably doesn't need. Besides, finding quick struts with NB springs may be a challenge.

On rockauto there is a $20 difference per side for quick struts vs struts, even less on no name items. Mechanics rates in my are is $85 to $95 a hour. So it would more than likely be cheaper, there also is a issue that a lot of guys find a spring broken or cracked. If doing the job yourself it would be smarter as well. You don’t have to buy or borrow spring compressors. Compressing springs can be very dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing. It all depends on what your time, or shops time is worth.

I no longer own a spring compressor, no having done a strut since Rabbit and MkII days. Since I moved I no longer know any mechanics that don't charge flat rate, which I don't think is going to vary because I got the quick version, and I'm not too inclined to tackle that myself anymore - just no time.

If there is excessive wear on the inside of the rear tires the rear springs may be shot; at around 95-100k miles mine were and destroyed a fairly new set of tires, so I replaced the springs and shocks, and the tires. After that there was a clunking noise that I thought was the rear beam but it turned out it was the RH shock mount.
I just replaced the front shocks and springs, as well as the rear springs and dampers, and there is no clunking or noises anymore. If the shock mounts are going out it will cause odd/severe wear on the rear tires and make noises every time you drive over a crack in the road. I just re-read your post and there are no clunking noises so I will guess the rear springs may be going soft.

I've had multiple high mileage (200-300+k) VWs and never had a problem with springs, though I suppose anything can go any time. Maybe my using higher performance dampers like Koni Orange hid some softness, but definitely no tire problems. I'm going to see if I can inspect the rear axle bushings later this morning, though not sure what's involved to see what I need to see, aside from pulling the wheels. In any event, I'll do the struts and shocks right, with all new mounts and everything.



What's funny about this is the shop that diagnosed the problem was inspecting the car, and they actually passed it! Crap, I've been failed for bad REAR wiper blades fog lights, optional items, and with three bum dampers and two tires almost bald on the inside it passed. Not complaining, just shocked (no pun). They are a shop with a good rep too.

You don't need to pull the wheels to see the bushings. they're in front of the tire. Getting the car in the air just makes it easier, but isn't essential is you don't mind lying on the ground.

Those bushings are pretty well obscured even with tire off, but what little I could see there was no cracking or other damage. With the tires off the wear was not as uneven as I first thought, so am thinking I'm good on the bushings, and just need to keep up with rotations.

Remember, NB sTruts/shocks require the “sport” components. Put longer components will make car ride like crap. If you put normal sTruts, you need longer springs.

I did this without knowing about he lengths. Absolutely destroyed ride, very little spring cushioning. Longer springs are awaiting install.

NB suspension is basically a "Sport" suspension from the factory. As paramedick posts, the ride height and shock valving is different. That's why quick struts may give you a mixed result, unless you can find ones that are specifically for the New Beetle, not just some that will generically "fit."

Oh crap, I got the standard stuff. What a way to start my day! My installation is scheduled for Thursday, so still time to swap. Are the bumper stops the only different component? Everything else appears the same. I realized the NB rides a bit lower than my old Jetta, but didn't think it was enough lower to be considered "sport". I never heard the NB suspension referenced that way. As for the struts and shocks, I've never seen any vendor reference different parts for NB vs. Jetta, so am I good with any units good for MkIV?

You can replace the setup with MKIV Jetta or Golf springs and dampers as long as you replace everything. If you mismatch springs and dampers you may not like the result. And because the springs aren't specific to the NB, you may have some variations in ride height.

Typically if someone is putting new dampers in a NB with stock springs we recommend a sport damper, because a standard one may not have enough damping for the NB springs.