ALH 1949 willys cj3a

Haven't gotten much done lately... Been trying to learn how to tig weld so I can finish my intake/intercooler piping. Im on hour 3 since I touched a tig torch. I also need to weld in my MAP bung.

Finished up the intercooler piping tonight. All thats left is attaching the MAP sensor bung.

looking good!

Tidy
I'm surprised there is that much room in front of the engine,more than a stock samurai.

It’s both a blessing and a curse. Haha!

I have no clue how it would be a curse, I'd kill for an extra 2 inches all around in my truck. Seriously envious of how clean your engine bay is. Mines a mess and I don't even have and inter cooler.

The downside is my vacuum pump is under my dash board and I have a 12”x 10” hole to box up. Ha ha!

Awesome work with the TIG.
I'm gonna have to invest in one too; can't get away from that Aluminum!

Millennium Falcon said:

The downside is my vacuum pump is under my dash board and I have a 12”x 10” hole to box up. Ha ha!

Click to expand...

Have you thought about making that a removable panel? Would make timing belts easier i'd think.

Yup, I’m making the patch panel be bolt in so I can service the vacuum pump. My timing belt needs done now. I was planning on doing it on the engine stand when I pull the engine to make the firewall repair. Figured it would be easier to do it then rather than in the frame.

...and mark TDC somewhere if that hasn't been done.
which I haven't done yet.

Very nice ,youre on a good track keep it up.

I bought the donor car for a 5-speed swap and never planned on using the engine. So needless to say I never marked anything when I took off the flywheel.... Im assuming one can watch the cam to get an idea on where TDC is. What is the best way to locate it for certain?

1.9ZOOK said:

...and mark TDC somewhere if that hasn't been done.
which I haven't done yet.

Click to expand...

I used a wire in #1 glow plug hole. Marked a tooth on the flywheel and used that to mark beginning and end of dwell and put it in the center. TDC is when the #1 cam lobes are both pointing up iirc. No clue on the actual accuracy of the method but it worked well enough for me. Also dont be a dummy like me and make sure you can see the tdc mark with the engine in the truck. I made my mark on the inside of the bellhousing...

Thank you! I will be sure to make a visible mark that can be seen with the engine, transmission in place.

Today I welded in my MAP bung. Then I made a few body fitment adjustments to the fenders and hood. This will be the last time they are mounted before paint. I took a few pictures and now i'm beginning disassembly. The plan is to remove the front end, pull the engine, repair and paint the hole in the firewall.... then I am replacing the timing belt, finish welding all the motor mounts and stuff that I couldnt get to with the engine in place. The I just have to paint the fenders/hood/grill....reassemble everything and hopefully make it move under its own power.

There must be video of this thing running.

looks great.. good job.

Thanks!

https://youtu.be/yHuwNig8sks

https://youtu.be/rKuaXbcqLjg

Growler said:

There must be video of this thing running.
looks great.. good job.

Click to expand...

Nice work!!

Well its out! It felt a little unnatural taking everything apart. It only took an hour to disassemble 3 weeks of work! haha!


(dont worry the oil pan isnt touching the ground)



Deja-vu











I started bending up the panels for my doghouse. I welded nuts to the firewall side so I can remove the panel from uner the dash. I also made an opening for the relays and harness for the tdi. The ECU, VNT n75 solenoid, Glow plug relay will all be hidden under the dash.

I love the copper. Anyway you can take pictures of all your hose connections. The Bentley is not clear but I have no idea where the port beside of the thermostat goes. Also, where did you get he clamps for the thermostat hose connection?

Sure, I will take some pictures of the coolant connections. I just used standard hose clamps for now. I am ordering some spring clamps soon. The clamps on the small bypass hose are the factory VW spring clamps.

I just finished making my own timing tools, but thank you for the offer. I couldnt bring myself to pay for the tools when I knew I could make them.

Homemade TDI timing tools.










Since the timing belt is done I decided to get to work on the firewall. I Primed and painted it today. There is a painted cover plate that fills the space and provides a place to mount my accelerator pedal. Since the TDI is drive by wire, I am stuck using the VW pedal. Its not ideal but I was able to cut it down and get it to fit without looking to ridiculous. Im not a fan of having to cut the firewall, but it is what it is. You cant see it when you're sitting in the front seat, or from the outside....so Im ok with it.

Millennium Falcon said:

Sure, I will take some pictures of the coolant connections. I just used standard hose clamps for now. I am ordering some spring clamps soon. The clamps on the small bypass hose are the factory VW spring clamps.
I just finished making my own timing tools, but thank you for the offer. I couldnt bring myself to pay for the tools when I knew I could make them.
Homemade TDI timing tools.

Since the timing belt is done I decided to get to work on the firewall. I Primed and painted it today. There is a painted cover plate that fills the space and provides a place to mount my accelerator pedal. Since the TDI is drive by wire, I am stuck using the VW pedal. Its not ideal but I was able to cut it down and get it to fit without looking to ridiculous. Im not a fan of having to cut the firewall, but it is what it is. You cant see it when you're sitting in the front seat, or from the outside....so Im ok with it.

Click to expand...

Do you have a crankshaft Tdc mark? About to start my belt change, but don't have a Tdc mark on crankshaft flywheel since it is different. Just wondering how you did it.

Millennium Falcon said:

Homemade TDI timing tools.

Click to expand...

Any chance you made drawings/sketches that you'd share?

Found drawings for most of them online, but not the crank lock.

TIA,

Al

Here is the print I used for the cam lock. Its from a member on here....


injection pump lock I used is 15/64 gauge pin with a delrin handle.

And the crank lock is just something I made by using the front balancer/pulley as a template. No real drawing or dimensions. I just measured and tacked it in place.....then I removed it, and welded it up on the bench. When At TDC 3 bolt holes in the front of the crank line up, the bump on the front of the crank sits in the dimple i made in the crank lock, and the notch in the lock fits around the casting web in the block snugly.

Came across that one, but thanks for posting it. Will get the crank lock sorted out...seems some folks don't bother with one.

Willys looks awesome BTW...great work.

Al

I never used a crank lock when doing the ALH. just be sure to follow the procedure 100% and have both the cam pulley and the pump pullley loose and able to rotate and the crank wont move when you set the tensioner. I also always double checked before I continued on after setting the tensioner though.

I always had good access to the TDC mark on the flywheel at the same time so if you do not have easy access to a TDC mark on the flywheel to double check yourself, then yes, having a crank lock is a good idea.

Ive made quite a bit of progress over the past few days. I finished painting everything. got installed the grill/fender. Ive been working on wiring and plumbing. Just getting everything back together. Fired her up backed it out of the garage and snapped some pictures and a video. Antique plates are on their way so hopefully with have this thing on the road soon!



















Here is a running video from today!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIFVF-kh--k&t=1s

lookin' good!

Thanks! Maybe you guys can help me out. When I hold the throttle around 1000-1500 rpm it will return to idle without me moving the pedal. If I hold it at say 2000 rpm it will stay there. Someone suggested it may be brake input overriding the throttle....??? Any ideas what it could be and how to remedy it? Thanks!

Millennium Falcon said:

Thanks! Maybe you guys can help me out. When I hold the throttle around 1000-1500 rpm it will return to idle without me moving the pedal. If I hold it at say 2000 rpm it will stay there. Someone suggested it may be brake input overriding the throttle....???

Click to expand...

Brake input would be my first hunch as well, its been a while since I messed with it but the position of all the pedal switches can be viewed with VCDS, they show up as a 1 or a 0, this is viewable in measuring block 6. Here is some info on it from a thread I started about making cruise control work with an AHU,

First off I VAG-commed a friends Passat and poked around with a test light so I could see what changed in channel 6 (engine measuring blocks) when you hit the brakes, clutch, set button, turned the cruise on, and hit the resume button.

Here are the details on that,
Cruise off: 000 000000
Cruise on: 000 000001

the following are all with the cruise switch on:
Clutch pedal depressed: 100 100001
Brake pedal depressed: 011 010001
Set button while depressed: 000 000101
resume button while depressed: 000 001001


Brake pedal switch: 2 wires need to be connected to ground from a switch with 2 circuits, one circuit needs to be complete to ground when the pedal is not depressed (pin #20) and when the pedal is depressed pin #44 needs to become a complete circuit (and the pin #20 circuit needs to be broken at that same time. White with yellow stripe, pin #20 and black with red stripe, pin #44. According to some other info I found online one of those needed to be connected to 12V at the same time the other was grounded, but both hooked to ground worked for me.

Click to expand...

I assume the ALH Is pretty similar, with the 2 circuit brake switch...