1942 Willys MB rock crawler build

I'll post up as I go along. The doubler is taking longer than thought. So as is with any other simple project, it's become a minor pain.

I'm needing some bolts for my motor mounts but I have no clue what size they are. Does anyone know what the smaller bolt hole sizes are on the turbo side of the block?

Turbo side: M8x1.25

IP side: M10x1.5

Perfect. Thanks for that.

Well this weekend I plan on getting my mount templates made. I do have one question though, the turbo outlet is going to be in the way of the passenger side mount, is it possible to clock that up? It looks like I could undo all those little bolts around the rim and just spin it. Assuming the bolts are on an even bolt circle.

yeah.... you can reclock the compressor housing just as you describe

Alrighty, guess I'll be rotating it about 180* to get it up out of the way and increase my intercooler options. Too bad I can't get the VNT actuator moved. Gotta get ahold of whitbread to modify my intake so I can move the motor up to keep the actuator out of my frame.

Well I got some work done today. I plan on picking up where I left off tomorrow. I got my turbo clocked up and out of the way which was a heck of a lot easier than I thought it would be. Which is always a pleasant surprise. I then decided to whittle down my cooling system to match the diagram I've posted earlier in this thread. You can see the difference in the before and after pictures. It may not be obvious but it really cleaned up a lot. In the pic with the 3 glowplugs (porcupine thingy) in fitting on the back of the head, I'm wondering if I can just put that little line and larger line together and then just attach them to the metal line going into the water pump. And finally I got my templates made for my motor mounts and started to cut them out but after cutting the first of 6 pieces I kinda started wondering if 1/4" metal was too thick. It certainly seems to be.

Would 1/8" metal be alright? I'd hate to go with the thinner stuff only to have it fail. What say ye?








The duct taped hoses ^^ if I tee those together and run them straight into the metal tube, will that be alright?







.

rooney77 said:

And finally I got my templates made for my motor mounts and started to cut them out but after cutting the first of 6 pieces I kinda started wondering if 1/4" metal was too thick. It certainly seems to be.

Would 1/8" metal be alright? I'd hate to go with the thinner stuff only to have it fail. What say ye?

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I think 1/4" is overkill for the portion of the bracket that sits next to the block. Now the parts that extend out to the framerails may need to be beefier depending on what your brackets end up looking like. Anything mocked up that you can share?

greengeeker said:

I think 1/4" is overkill for the portion of the bracket that sits next to the block. Now the parts that extend out to the framerails may need to be beefier depending on what your brackets end up looking like. Anything mocked up that you can share?

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Well right now my "mounts" are 6 pieces of beer box cardboard. I'll post some pics of the pieces tomorrow. I meant to do it this evening but got sidetracked...the wife wanted to eat. Really, who eats when you're making progress in the shop? I tell ya, some people.


Based on your response in the other thread, it seems the duct taped hose mockup will work as I had expected. Which is awesome news. Eliminating the stuff I did was a ton easier than I thought it would be.

rooney77 said:

Well right now my "mounts" are 6 pieces of beer box cardboard. I'll post some pics of the pieces tomorrow. I meant to do it this evening but got sidetracked...

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Haha. Yeah, you needed more template material

Like an idiot I used old Cheerios boxes! Should have thought ahead on that one.

greengeeker said:

Haha. Yeah, you needed more template material

Like an idiot I used old Cheerios boxes! Should have though ahead on that one.

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I don't think the wife believed me when I told her earlier today that I had to run to the store to pick up a 12 pack of shiner bock for the template material. Maybe tomorrow I'll need some guiness templates.

rooney77 said:

Well I got some work done today. I plan on picking up where I left off tomorrow. I got my turbo clocked up and out of the way which was a heck of a lot easier than I thought it would be. Which is always a pleasant surprise. I then decided to whittle down my cooling system to match the diagram I've posted earlier in this thread. You can see the difference in the before and after pictures. It may not be obvious but it really cleaned up a lot. In the pic with the 3 glowplugs (porcupine thingy) in fitting on the back of the head, I'm wondering if I can just put that little line and larger line together and then just attach them to the metal line going into the water pump. And finally I got my templates made for my motor mounts and started to cut them out but after cutting the first of 6 pieces I kinda started wondering if 1/4" metal was too thick. It certainly seems to be.
Would 1/8" metal be alright? I'd hate to go with the thinner stuff only to have it fail. What say ye?

The duct taped hoses ^^ if I tee those together and run them straight into the metal tube, will that be alright?







.

Click to expand...

Most swappers replace the "porcupine thingy" with the one from the automatic transmission equipped ALH VWs (pictured below; pictures borrowed from greengeeker's Ranger build thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=359848&page=2) as it cleans up coolant line routing and saves space by not having the coolant line run straight at the firewall. greengeeker also chopped the metal tube that runs across the back of the head down to make it work better with his transmission bell housing (also pictured below; from the same thread as before). As for the small pipe that comes off the back of the head, I believe it teed into the line that ran back to the overflow tank, so I don't know what effect running it into the return line to the water pump (the metal pipe that you want to tee this line into) will have. I say run it to the overflow tank instead of tee'ing it and that keeps with the coolant flow path that VW designed for this engine.

I thought about that, but if I'm not mistaken, the HPA kit that I'm still waiting on has a different water neck of some sort. I may end up trying to make my own hardline so I don't have the hard tee on the pump side of the block. May be more work than it's worth though. Just have to look into it.

Well I got the engine plates done, which is a huge load off my mind. I'm getting close to the point where I will be at a stand still till my HPA kit shows up. Which sucks but that's life none the less. Anyway, here are the finished mounts. I meant to take pics of the templates but apparently forgot. I still have the templates and can take pics and give measurements for anyone that wants them. Some trimming and fitting was needed after I cut the metal but it all worked out well. Anyway, on to the pics.

I know the fab skills aren't up to par for some of the stuff I've seen on here but it's all tightly fit and welded strong. So ugly it may be but it'll hold.

If you have a scanner - throw the templates on and scan them 1:1.

I spent this morning down in the garage working on my mounts. Same template material. Seems like after the baby, there's a lot more cheerios boxes than beer boxes.

mcneil said:

If you have a scanner - throw the templates on and scan them 1:1.

I spent this morning down in the garage working on my mounts. Same template material. Seems like after the baby, there's a lot more cheerios boxes than beer boxes.

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Well I don't have a scanner but if anyone really wants the templates for my ghetto mounts I can write the measurements on them so they can replicate them from the pics. Really there are only 2 pieces out of the six that have anything other than straight angles. With enough determination they could be replicated easily with a cutoff wheel and flap disks. Which is damn near all I used.

edit: Also, I guess I could do a cad drawing of the templates during work one day, again, assuming anyone wants to replicate them.

I got my new tensioner/idler pulley bracket fabbed up today. Simple and effective. Nice having you guys pointing me in the right direction with things. Anyway, it uses an off the shelf belt so it should be easy to find if I need to replace it in the middle of nowhere. I can easily remove the bracket and draw it in cad and post up the belt part number as well if anyone needs it.

I'll be drawing up my motor mount bracket templates in CAD on my lunch break tomorrow and hopefully I can save them as a jpg to post up here for those that want them.

did you make your bracket any thicker in the middle there where you mounted the pulley?

how thick is the material you used? 1/4"? 3/16"? did you need to tack on a nut to screw the idler into?

can we get a profile shot with the pulley unmounted? and does it slide up & down easy enough with your one slot angled differently compared to the other?

sure happy to see this option getting more use. its seems like a very simple, elegant solution for removing the AC compressor.

Growler said:

did you make your bracket any thicker in the middle there where you mounted the pulley?

It is flat strap that I put spacers behind. The spacers are currently nuts that were the right thickness. I've got some small diameter tube I'll replace the nuts with but I wanted to be sure I got the distances right.

how thick is the material you used? 1/4"? 3/16"? did you need to tack on a nut to screw the idler into?

The material is 1/4" x 1.25". Not sure where I got it, it's been over in my scrap pile for a while. I did not tack the nut for the pulley bolt. I may come back and do that but for the time it's just got a nut on it. There is a washer between the pulley and strap.

can we get a profile shot with the pulley unmounted? and does it slide up & down easy enough with your one slot angled differently compared to the other?

Believe it or not, that top slot is angled on purpose. I did that so that as it slides up it moves away from the timing belt cover. I should have angle it more but hindsight and all that.

sure happy to see this option getting more use. its seems like a very simple, elegant solution for removing the AC compressor.

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I went with nuts as spacer mock up so that I could be sure everything would work and clear. I'm glad I did because it turned out the bottom bolt was hitting the belt. So I went with a smaller spacer and put a single washer between the pulley and the bracket and it came out perfect. It slides easily enough. I did have to use a pry-bar to push down on it to tension the belt enough but that's just because I'm not the strongest dude. Over all, I'm extremely happy with it thus far. The belt came from Oreilly Auto Parts, part # K060551.

The slots were made by drilling two holes, plasma cutting out to connect the two holes then using a file to fine tune them. The two hole were put on 3/4" centers and the centers of the slots are 5" apart. If people want I can remove it tonight and draw it up tomorrow in cad with dimensions and everything. I'll be posting my motor mount plate drawings later today.

Nice work!

greengeeker said:

Nice work!

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Thanks for that. I'm always a little nervous to post up pics. I know my skills are nowhere near what others have done.

I've got the cad drawings done of the motor mount plates if someone can post them up for me. They are a .bmp file type. If not, I'll load them on photobucket this evening and post them up.

I intentionally did not dimension the holes because of fitment issues between various motors.

Found a way to post them.

rooney77 said:

I know the fab skills aren't up to par for some of the stuff I've seen on here but it's all tightly fit and welded strong. So ugly it may be but it'll hold.

Click to expand...

Keep up your good work !

Thanks Andy. I'd love to give an update but there really isn't one motor related. My intake is at Whitbread's right now getting modified, my HPA kit should ship today and my bellhousing won't get here till Wednesday. So I'm waiting on parts right now. I did however get my doubler all bolted together and discovered the drivetrain is longer than I expected. But I'm waiting till I get the whole drivetrain bolted together before I make any changes to my plan.

Just out of curiousity, what's the average cost of a full rebuild? I don't think I need one but since the motor is out, I got to thinking it may be worth my effort to get it done now.

So I was sitting there staring at this thing yesterday, drinking a beer and scratching my head (pretty much where I'm stuck at till the HPA shows up) and was trying to find a way to get a longer driveshaft. I got to thinking, why couldn't I run my radiator on the side instead of behind the grill? I've got a 96 Taurus fan which can easily keep a v8 cool so I know I can pull the CFM. My fenders have no inner fenders since I cut them out to fix some rust so that means I can get the airflow in there to it. My concern is road debris, mud and rocks being thrown into when I'm out wheeling. Keep in mind I do compete at local rock competitions, nothing remotely professional but still pretty brutal none the less.

So, any ideas on materials I could use to replace the inner fenders that will allow air flow and still offer some protection?

By moving the radiator/fan setup I can move my motor forward another 5-6".

A lot of competition rigs that I have seen run the radiators behind the cab area to protect them. A down side I can see with a side mount is a side flop or hard rub against a boulder on that side could damage it. Maybe, instead of mounting it on the side, either mount it behind you or an adaptation of the way the Hummer H1 has the radiator mounted, above the engine and nearly horizontal.

The idea I thought of to protect a side mount radiator would be to use 1" wide strips of 1/8" steel plate in a grid pattern in front of the radiator with a frame that the radiator would mount to. The steel plate would be arranged so that it would look like a honeycomb structure in front of the radiator, providing the most protection from damage while not impeding airflow. Let me know if that makes sense.

SuperAdellic said:

A lot of competition rigs that I have seen run the radiators behind the cab area to protect them. A down side I can see with a side mount is a side flop or hard rub against a boulder on that side could damage it. Maybe, instead of mounting it on the side, either mount it behind you or an adaptation of the way the Hummer H1 has the radiator mounted, above the engine and nearly horizontal.

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I had debated a rear mount radiator but the Willys tubs are so tiny that I don't really want to give up the space. Plus I could see some tard coming along in a parking lot and burning his hand on it because he went poking where he didn't belong. And I've already got to put the fuel tank back there. Space is extremely limited in these, more so than my 68 Beetle. The rad would still be in the engine compartment so even a hard roll wouldn't hit it. Crap being thrown up by the tires would be my biggest concern. Mounting in the hood really isn't an option either since the motor is so tall I dont have the vertical space for it and it's not a sealed system. Gotta love trying to shove ten lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag.

And this is the type of situation I've dealt with every step of the way. If you ever get the urge to do anything to a Willys Jeep besides restore, shoot yourself in the foot, it'd be cheaper and less painful.