Obviously the factory fill has lots of potassium for some reason, so it must not be harmful -- only if it suddenly appears later on because of fuel or coolant contamination. Since that's not the case here, I don't consider it a cause for worry. No matter whether you drain from the bottom or use a topside extractor, there's always going to be some residual oil hiding in the engine.TooSlick said:The high level of potassium bothers me...that stuff from the new engine should have flushed out by now, unless you are using contaminated bio-diesel. I'd like to hear from VWOA about the source of that...?
Lab error on the VOA probably, as the additive levels in the UOA match what Mobil says are in this oil as well as the specs it meets.hid3 said:So you claim that your Zn and P levels increased after being run for 5100 miles?!
If I recall correctly his previous OCI was with M1 TDT, which has higher ZDDP levels, so there was probably enough left in the crankcase to get a small bump on the next OCI.hid3 said:So you claim that your Zn and P levels increased after being run for 5100 miles?!
Given the conditions (10 mile short trips at 5*F to 30*F, going right to the Interstate at 70 to 80 MPH on a cold engine), this oil did very well.brons2 said:If I recall correctly his previous OCI was with M1 TDT, which has higher ZDDP levels, so there was probably enough left in the crankcase to get a small bump on the next OCI.
bob_fout your best result was the 9500 mile run a while back, as far as wear PPM per mile. But the M1 0w40 did reasonably well. What diesel ratings does it carry? CF?
I can't decide . Syntec 0w30, Redline 0w40, Royal Purple 0w40, Amsoil DEO 5w40.TooSlick said:Bobs' data includes Delvac 1, the Amsoil DEO/5w-40 and now the Mobil 0w-40. His engine seems to do well on just about anything.... I'd like to see him try the Castrol 0w-30 the next time around.
TS
>> off topicBob_Fout said:I can't decide . Syntec 0w30, Redline 0w40, Royal Purple 0w40, Amsoil DEO 5w40.
Keep in mind this engine has been at 45% to 70% more than stock output for a while, soon to be 100%.
For another 2 days, yes. 17/22 going in on Sat.oEo said:Bob, you still running the stock turbo?
later
Tony
You are still seeing residual additive levels from the factory fill -- the high potassium number proves that.Elfnmagik said:This is my first UOA. Oil (M1 ESP) has been changed every 10k. Wondering why the Molybendenum & Boron are so high?
Yeah, I don't know how they goofed that but I thought the same. How would this change their opinions/comments?Bob_Fout said:Blackstone needs to know it's a 2.0L TDI also, not a 1.9L.
I meant for their database of what "normal" should be at various mileage across the board for different engines.Elfnmagik said:Yeah, I don't know how they goofed that but I thought the same. How would this change their opinions/comments?
I did a break in with racing oil for 20 or 30 min changed the oil and filter.TooSlick said:How many miles since the new parts were installed?
TS
TooSlick said:I'd do 1-2 short runs of 5000-6000 miles to get the residual wear metals out of there. Then go back to the full 10,000 mile interval. The Fe & Al levels already look normal, which is a good sign.
Amsoils 5w-40, HD diesel oil (product code: "DEO"), might work even better in thus application. It's about 10% thicker than their Euro oil and has an even higher level of anti-wear additives. Something to consider....
TS
Based on anecdotal evidence only, from other TDI owners posting here, I think Amsoil is not as good a choice for TDI owners as it was 5 or 6 years ago. Amsoil has not gotten worse, but other oil choices have gotten better.nic_a_bod said:I'll take my next sample at 6,000 to see where things are at and go from there. I'll check out the "DEO" stuff for the next change too.