What did you do to your MKIV today?

Dh4276 said:

Here’s 2 wiring diagrams, slight difference depending on if you have power windows or not.
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Thanks!!! This helps!

Bought a set of Bosch Icon Clearmax 365 wipers at Advance-$15.99 each online at Advance. Need to stop by DMV tomorrow and see why I haven't received my registration renewal yet. Usually get it about 4-6 weeks before it expires. Expires in 2 weeks on a Sunday....

Reset the timing since almost 100k miles ago. Had fallen from advanced to out of range retarded (in VCDS).

Deleted the EGR cooler off my 2003 Jetta. Last night, changed the front end to that of a Golf, using junkyard parts.

Today I finished replacing the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat (and other various things, while I was in there).

I had a heck of a time with it. Lots of things went wrong. For example, the PCV breather broke when I tried to remove it. So I had to replace it. The heads on the harmonic balancer bolts stripped out. So I had to replace them. The new thermostat didn't seal properly, made a big mess. So I sealed it with RTV silicone. Also, the locking pin for the fuel pump (in the TB tool kit) wouldn't fit. So I had to use a drill bit to lock the fuel pump.

I also think it's beyond ridiculous that I had to remove the front bumper and the passenger side headlamp assembly, just to gain access to a hose clamp.

But the job is done, and the engine runs great.

TornadoRed said:

That tire size is going to lower the rotations per mile, throwing off the odometer and speedometer. If your speedometer shows 70 mph, you'll be doing an actual 70 mph. So beware of speeding tickets!

And you might think your fuel mileage has dropped when it actually hasn't. The odometer just doesn't reflect you've actually driven more miles than it shows.

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Stock wheels, 195/65 R15 Yokohama's and when speedo says 70, GPS on phone and dash cam reports 65/66? Is this normal for VWs?


2000 Jetta TDI 5-speed

Speedo is 3 MPH optimistic by design. With that wheel tire setup odometer should be accurate.

I believe many auto makers falsify the speed reading to display a higher speed in the top gear. Mazda did the same with my 1990 Miata with the OEM 14" wheels and tires but set it to read 5mph higher. So when I was driving the speed limit at 70 mph indicated, I was really going 65 mph true.

romad said:

I believe many auto makers falsify the speed reading to display a higher speed in the top gear. Mazda did the same with my 1990 Miata with the OEM 14" wheels and tires but set it to read 5mph higher. So when I was driving the speed limit at 70 mph indicated, I was really going 65 mph true.

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Never run into it before, as long as I was running the 'factory' tire size. 97 Dodge truck, 96 Saturn GL2, 2000 Toyota van, 2013 RAV4, speedo and GPS match +/- 1MPH

TDI-WNC said:

Never run into it before, as long as I was running the 'factory' tire size. 97 Dodge truck, 96 Saturn GL2, 2000 Toyota van, 2013 RAV4, speedo and GPS match +/- 1MPH

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I don’t mind speedometer being off, I can adjust for that with my foot. Right after I got my car I noticed that the odometer was not reading correct. When I did the math I determine that the odometer was off 20k or more of actual mileage driven. I have tried adjusting using Vag-Com to change the impulse setting closest I have gotten is speed reading high and mileage still reading low.

I have changed from stock tire but is still about the same diameter. I did change the 5th gear to a higher ratio but that had no effect on the odometer or speed reading from before I changed it.

Next step is to ty a taller tire and see how that works.


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German law prohibits speedometer readings that are the same or lower than actual speed. So most cars read a bit higher. My BMW reads 4 MPH high, but my old Mercedes is almost exactly correct. Early TDIs (Passat and Jetta) read about 4 MPH high, maybe a bit more. I have slightly larger diameter tires on my B4 to minimize that error.

I've found my oversize 215/55/16s, diameter of 25.3" vs stock size at 24.9"
is just a hair high on the speedo at 70mph referenced by GPS. I believe
it's thrown the odometer out though by a ~1.6% percent. I don't worry
about that, I want to know what the radar guns are picking up.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

German law prohibits speedometer readings that are the same or lower than actual speed. So most cars read a bit higher. My BMW reads 4 MPH high, but my old Mercedes is almost exactly correct. Early TDIs (Passat and Jetta) read about 4 MPH high, maybe a bit more. I have slightly larger diameter tires on my B4 to minimize that error.

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That's an interesting statement; if you dont mind sharing the source for it. Has me curious simply because I know for a fact that if the vehicle was off by more than 5km/h in either direction they wouldnt give you the annual TÜV approval in my home region. So if this was to be true would make sense in a way for sure!

On another note; I received a very special to me gift today from my so to say little brother. This lighter is going into my mk4 collection

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Rrusse11 said:

I've found my oversize 215/55/16s, diameter of 25.3" vs stock size at 24.9"
is just a hair high on the speedo at 70mph referenced by GPS. I believe
it's thrown the odometer out though by a ~1.6% percent. I don't worry
about that, I want to know what the radar guns are picking up.

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Ask a local leo to do a courtesy test. If they are a half way decent person they would help you with it. Or check a dyno maybe? In Germany they had rollers at a lot of local shops to check this when I was still there at least

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Something curious I noticed on my car related to the Speedo and odometer. My Speedo is like most a little higher than the actual speed as verified by GPS. The interesting thing is that when I plug in an obd 2 reader and read the value the computer is using for speed, it is almost dead on the same as the GPS, even though the Speedo shows higher.

Not sure if that applies to other cars, but food for thought for those changing their impulse settings with stock wheel and tire sizes. By getting your Speedo to display "correct" you may actually be causing the odometer to read incorrect (if the computer is using a lower speed value to calculate distance, etc.)

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Dhawk12 said:

Something curious I noticed on my car related to the Speedo and odometer. My Speedo is like most a little higher than the actual speed as verified by GPS. The interesting thing is that when I plug in an obd 2 reader and read the value the computer is using for speed, it is almost dead on the same as the GPS, even though the Speedo shows higher.

Not sure if that applies to other cars, but food for thought for those changing their impulse settings with stock wheel and tire sizes. By getting your Speedo to display "correct" you may actually be causing the odometer to read incorrect (if the computer is using a lower speed value to calculate distance, etc.)

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I’m more concerned with getting the odometer to read correct. With stock sensor setting and stock tire, they were both reading low, changing the setting to a lower impulse, number which in theory should correct the issue, now the odometer is closer but still low by about 2%. Speedometer now reads higher than actual (GPS reference). Is there something I’m missing on getting the odometer to actually be correct?


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Replaced both radiator fans today. Actually got the electrical connectors apart (the D-style ones). Only real hiccup is the plastic piece that holds the connectors onto the shroud. Boy that thing was a pain. Removed it from the shroud, put it on the bench, still took a lot of work to get the large fan connector out.

BUT they are both in, and with key on, a/c on, and fan set to one, believe it or don't, both fans ran! Woohoo!

I guess it's a 2-sided question. What did I do to the mk4s at the junkyard for the monthly wheelbarrow sale? Pulled a BRM head (and took out all 4 injectors at home, so I can get them on ebay), along with a VNT15 from an ALH, the KP39 from this head gasket failure BRM, a core support that will go on my 2003 Jetta.

Yesterday, I picked up an MFA cluster from a mk4 GTI, so I'm going to see if I can get it to work with my 2003 (and see about adjusting the tachometer scaling, per another thread on here with the same cluster). If it has needle staging, I might just put it in the Golf instead!

Picked up 2 wheel hubs today, also from the mk4 GTI (which has a VR6). Unfortunately, the struts are OEM, so I won't use those, but I want the springs for my 2003 (and already picked up wagon springs for the rear, pending getting new shocks).

Tonight, I might just keep it simple and install new hood latches, as the plastic piece broke off, and I have 2 latch assemblies, fresh from the junkyard. I installed a junkyard hood on my Golf, so it no longer looks like I hit a deer (which I did a year ago).

Finally got around to doing the 5 brake light mod on the '01! Wife was not impressed. smh

STDOUBT said:

Finally got around to doing the 5 brake light mod on the '01! Wife was not impressed. smh

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Our wives will hardly understand...


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Replaced the driver side headlight since the high beam portion stopped working ....

Having to take the battery out to do that reminded me to look back into relocating the battery when it warms up
(Plan to do that for better handling and so I don't have to remove the battery when changing bulbs!) ...

Projects projects ....

On the ODO, there was long ago a court case over rental car charges and from that point forward ODO's have read close as possible to actual miles. Speedo, otoh, can read what ever, and it is usually high.
cheers,
Douglas

Son and I did a timing belt on his '03 wagon. Decided to tackle the intake manifold, and ended up breaking the egr studs on the turbo.


So, I did a bit of "weld the bolt on what's left of the stud". That bottom stud is in a really bad position to hit with a MIG...


With no real choice I just kept trying, and finally got the MFer.





For the sake of full disclosure, I removed the studs on the parts turbo I had as practice. It was tough, even up in the vise right in front of me. I also think the heating and cooling of many attempts actually helps break the bond.


The one complete stud came out with vise grips (of course that was on the turbo in the vise...). The 2 studs in the blind holes came out easier than the ones with the through holes. (If I did it again I would hit the end of it with a grinder from the bottom)



But, at least it's back on the road.

Found the sticky on checking the AC system out and making sure the cooling fans work ....

My AC works BUT I could not recall hearing the cooling fans so I did the test .... My fans work! WHEW...

dodged a bullet on that one ...

The boost hose (1J0145838T) between the intercooler and the EGR popped off so I had to limp home. Fortunately I'd ordered one a couple of months ago; unfortunately I hadn't gotten around to installing it. So now I had to install it. I then learned about KermaTDI's "doggie collar" so I went ahead and ordered it today also. After it arrives and I install it, I figure between the new hose and the collar, I'll be fine for years to come.

Passed the CA Smog Test today. The guy did a hard visual inspection but all the emissions equipment is intact, so nothing to worry about. Passed the Snap Throttle Test with no visible smoke.

FYI, I recently failed the Snap Throttle test at a different smog shop. The guy was rev’ing the motor and causing slight puffs of diesel smoke. After recently changing the fuel filter with a diesel purge priming and driving aggressively for a tank, the wagon is cleared for the Snap Throttle test, at a different smog shop. This guy said diesels have some leeway on the Snap Test and the fail is supposed to occur if smoke lingers for three seconds. That was not the case with the initial test and fail. No way did the wagon have lingering smoke for three seconds. Anyways, glad it passed with no smoke at all during the Snap Throttle Test.

sriracha said:

Passed the CA Smog Test today. The guy did a hard visual inspection but all the emissions equipment is intact, so nothing to worry about. Passed the Snap Throttle Test with no visible smoke.

FYI, I recently failed the Snap Throttle test at a different smog shop. The guy was rev’ing the motor and causing slight puffs of diesel smoke. After recently changing the fuel filter with a diesel purge priming and driving aggressively for a tank, the wagon is cleared for the Snap Throttle test, at a different smog shop. This guy said diesels have some leeway on the Snap Test and the fail is supposed to occur if smoke lingers for three seconds. That was not the case with the initial test and fail. No way did the wagon have lingering smoke for three seconds. Anyways, glad it passed with no smoke at all during the Snap Throttle Test.

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I think that snap test is kind of a BS test, especially with diesels. On all of the ones I've owned, car or tuck, if you blip the throttle/rev from a stand still, you are going to get a puff of smoke regardless. There's no way for the turbo to catch up to the fuel right out of the gate to provide enough air where all the fuel will be burnt

sriracha said:

Passed the CA Smog Test today. The guy did a hard visual inspection but all the emissions equipment is intact, so nothing to worry about. Passed the Snap Throttle Test with no visible smoke.

FYI, I recently failed the Snap Throttle test at a different smog shop. The guy was rev’ing the motor and causing slight puffs of diesel smoke. After recently changing the fuel filter with a diesel purge priming and driving aggressively for a tank, the wagon is cleared for the Snap Throttle test, at a different smog shop. This guy said diesels have some leeway on the Snap Test and the fail is supposed to occur if smoke lingers for three seconds. That was not the case with the initial test and fail. No way did the wagon have lingering smoke for three seconds. Anyways, glad it passed with no smoke at all during the Snap Throttle Test.

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The Snap Throttle Test is a SUBJECTIVE test not an objective test. The tester can make his own decision if it passes or not. It is best to do it outside on a breezy day.

Here are the test requirements for a Fail:

• Diesel - a visible smoke plume observed 5 to 15 feet from the tailpipe(s) that lingers for more than 3 seconds on either of the final two BAR Snap Tests.

romad said:

The Snap Throttle Test is a SUBJECTIVE test not an objective test. The tester can make his own decision if it passes or not. It is best to do it outside on a breezy day.

Here are the test requirements for a Fail:

• Diesel - a visible smoke plume observed 5 to 15 feet from the tailpipe(s) that lingers for more than 3 seconds on either of the final two BAR Snap Tests.

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On the first test, I had nothing even close to a visible smoke plume 5 to 15 feet from the tailpipe, lasting three seconds or even close.

I diesel purged my injectors and replaced a slowing starter......fires up beautifully now.
Yes it’s a BOSCH reman.