Turbo vacuum actuator

How far should the arm move on the actuator for the turbo. mine i guess moves a 1/4 of an inch if that much. should it be easy to move by hand?

Mine moves a good inch with a bit of pressure, you're pushing against a big spring in the actuator though so depending on how you get your hand on it it can feel stiffer.

How hard are you pressing on it. I am think that it bad from sitting.

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Reasonably hard, wear thick gloves or use a cloth against it so you can get a good push. Is the car going into limp mode or something?

I think you can also test the actuator with vagcom, like activate it back and forth with the engine idling. Not sure how though as I've never had to yet.

I was driving it and then had no power. I can hear the turbo but does not feel like it is boosting. This turbo has about 70k on it.

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It's probably sticking a bit, check the how tos

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=569892

Also google Mr muscle oven cleaner turbo clean

I had a similar issue, going up hill I would loose power and every once in a while an engine code negative boost deviation would light off. I started from the actuator, there was barely any movement. It's fairly easy to take off the actuator, 2- 10 mm nut and a circlip (it's little tricky to get off the circlip off, I used a flat head screw driver, a pick would be nice). Once the actuator is off you can check if the VNT vane lever moves freely to make sure it's not stuck. Here's a good information I found:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Actuator_TSB.pdf
good luck.

I got it moving nicely. It seems once it warms the boost is a little erratic. It will run 25 psi then drops to 15 psi

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test it with a vacuum pump, mines leaking... i get great boost but if i dont stay on the throttle it spazzes out and throws it into limp mode...

boost gauge and new actuator are on the long list of things coming my way!

I have the boost gauge. I think it needs to be really driven before do anything else. Only has 20 miles after sitting for 4 years

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Actuator rod should move about 1 1/4".

If your's is only moving a 1/4", then you have a problem.

df

I kept playing with it and got it to move more than that now.

Well, that could be a couple of things. You could have coked up VNT vanes that you broke free; if that is the case, it will likely happen again, sooner or later. The solution there would be a cleaning (Mr. Muscle or Easy-Off oven cleans with NaOH, or sodium-based lye). The other issue would be within the actuator. I use PB blaster on my actuator to try and free up the components. You may want to give it a soak and try again. Or, it could be both.

If you have bad innards in the actuator, you may need to replace it ($99 at ID parts).

I guess i will find out once i start really driving it around. This is what happens when things sit, they go bad.

If the vnt is sticking, you can clean it out with a can of oven cleaner.

Do a search for "chemical cleaning turbo", or something to that effect. There's a great thead on here, somewhere.

I clean my turbo with oven cleaner every spring.

df

i ran a scan and this is what it came up with.


Monday,24,September,2012,13:04:30:27266
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807


Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76

Mileage: 285680km/177513miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 BD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 2507
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 53AF887CA19FCA80CC7

3 Faults Found:
19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239)
P3105 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
17849 - EGR Valve (N18)
P1441 - 35-10 - Open Circuit or Short to Ground - Intermittent
17965 - Charge Pressure Control
P1557 - 35-10 - Positive Deviation - Intermittent
Readiness: 1 2 1 1 1

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 03504
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3E79C9C83A1D37E8139

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: 09 AIRBAG VW5 0003
Coding: 12345
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 356BD6E40F2BF4B0C23

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx0-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 900 L
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V59
Coding: 07242
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 2B5FF09CD96FB240A47

Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2202682
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0Y2202682

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: F0E5A7F0B0C91198515

1 Fault Found:
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 61 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 04096
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 8609E128A24D2F289B9

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1J1959801C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1J4959811C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. HL0002r

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1J4959812C
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. HR0002r

No Faults Found
or DTCs not supported by controller
or a communication error occurred

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok so it appears i am over boosting since i am seeing 20+ pounds of boost. the actuator is moving and all my vacuum lines are new. My guess is that i need a new boost seliond (N75). I ordered one and should have in a few days. I hope it fixes the over boost problem because it is really annoying.

Does the actuator rod move 1 1/4" or so? Hook up a vacuum pump directly to the actuator and pump it up. If the needle drops, you have a faulty actuator. You should be able to hold a steady 18-22 hg/in.

Work the actuator with the vacuum pump. The actuator rod should move about 1 1/4". If not, you have a sticky vnt. That problem can be cured with a $2 can of oven cleaner. :>)

df

It holds steady there and the shaft does move. After i run up the boost a few times it goes into limp mode and get the overboost code.

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If the actuator was stuck that means there is likely rust inside and it will stick again. Check out the video I made of a sticky actuator and a new actuator side by side: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGWxQkEWA-g

What do i do with the oven cleaner. Spray it inside? Most of the posts are not clear.

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You spray the oven cleaner into the EXHAUST SIDE ONLY of the turbo. You remove the downpipe and spray the oc onto the wheel. Spin the wheel with your finger to spread the oc. Let it soak for an hour or so. Re-assemble the downpipe and go for a test drive Pull to redline in 1 and 2 gears. Do it a few times until the thick black smoke clears from the exhaust pipe.

I do this to my turbo every spring. I'm always amazed at how much carbon is cleared out of the turbo.

df

what brand are you using to do this? Wish i knew all of this before i got it back together. the downpipe is a pain to get on and off. it is the kerma ugly pipe and the bolts do not fit in there well. any thoughts on using studs instead of hex cab screws.

Brand doesn't matter. I've used Easy Off Grille Cleaner, regular Easy Off, and the last time I did it, I used a cheap off brand.

Go to a "dollar" store and pick up a cheap can. You'll be fine. :>)

df

NarfBLAST said:

If the actuator was stuck that means there is likely rust inside and it will stick again. Check out the video I made of a sticky actuator and a new actuator side by side: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGWxQkEWA-g

Click to expand...

Narf,

Do you think it would be o.k. to shoot some rust inhibitor(LPS) into the weep hole on the actuator?

Have you ever dis-assembled an actuator to see what's inside...?


df

Can i spray it i the egr hole or should i go through the effort and take the downpipe off.

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dieselfuel said:

Narf,
Do you think it would be o.k. to shoot some rust inhibitor(LPS) into the weep hole on the actuator?
Have you ever dis-assembled an actuator to see what's inside...?
df

Click to expand...

I would be afraid to ruin the diaphram because I think that is what I did to my egr valve using varsol to clean it. As long as it is a rubber safe product maybe it would be okay. I dissambled my first (of three) vnt actuators and it has a metal plate with a heavy return spring and a canvas/rubber/kevlar (dunno) diaphram bag. The weep hole is on the side with the metal plate and spring and the rod: this is the area where all the rust happens and rust flakes off and get crunchy and sticky.

After replacing the N75 the boost is stable. I have way to much boost. It is running at 25psi when getting on the throttle. When it stays they for about 3 sec or so it goes right into limp. I am thinking the actuator is not adjusted right and it is opening the vane too much. How do i adjust it.

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Thanks Naf.


Brian,

Do a search on "Adjust actuator." When you find a thread that details how to adjust the actuator, set the arm (rod) to start movement at 5hg/in. I know the range is 3-5, but PLEASE trust me, 5 is the ideal setting. The rod should stop movment somewhere between 18-22 hg/in.

Set it at 5, and as long as the rod stops moving at least at 18, you're fine.


df

How to test and replace a VNT turbo actuator ... - Myturbodiesel.com

I still think the actuator is sticking... good luck