V10 TDI upgrades

Not on the Touareg V-10 TDI, that picture is on a V-8. The Touareg is gear driven timing and accessory driven.

So...do either the V8 or V10 have the chains on the back?

No, picture is of a GAS V8.

The V10 has NO chains or ANY belts

Oh I see...what about the V8 TDI?

The V8 TDI has belt driven cams.. Depending on the year range, looks like the belt can be on either side of the engine..

I found this link while looking around for assorted engine pictures.. http://www.wheelsacademy.com/a1/engines/

TDIJetta99 said:

The V8 TDI has belt driven cams..

Click to expand...

???

They don't all have chains... This looks remarkably like a belt hanging off the back..

The first 3.3 V8 TDI from a decade ago had belt-driven cams, being based superficially on the 2.5 V6 TDI. The 4.0 and 4.2 that followed have been chain-driven off the crankshaft end. The pic above showing the belt is what drives the CR HPFP.

MTZ 10|2005 said:

3.3 Chain Drive, Auxiliary Unit Drive
The layout of the 4-stage chain drive on the
transmission side for driving the camshaft
and the oil-, water and power-steering pump
is the main characteristic of the Audi-V fam-
ily of engines and was essentially adopted
from the 4,0-l-TDI engine, Figure 5. The en-
capsulation of the 4 simplex chain drives in
only 2 chain tracks contributes decisively to
the short dimension of the engine.
The translation of drive B was modified.
Via an intermediate gear it drives the inlet
camshaft on the left side and, via an extra
maintenance-free toothed belt, it also drives
t he HP pump and hence is under maximum
load. This step was necessary as the suction
control of the high-pressure pump was de-
ployed to optimise consumption across the
complete rpm range. This led to enhanced
rotary oscillation effects.

Click to expand...

Isn't this thread about the V10 anyway?

So I wonder if any of these V8 TDi have chain tensioner issues like other VAG chained engines ??

you make it sound like a 2002 is a dinosaur LOL..

That makes more sense that that belt on the back drives a HPFP..

Das.. I know the 4.2 gassers with that goofy chain setup had a LOT of issues with the tensioner arm breaking on the auxiliary chain.. Not a fun job at all..

The belts on the V8's and V6's drive the high pressure injection pump off the cam.

I agree, a 10 year old engine is OLD by any standard today! 2002, borderline Jurasic!

Call me old fashioned but I love my brontosaurus 1Z. It's been the most reliable engine I've ever owned, and in my 32 years on earth I've owned over 20 cars.

Well she is mostly done and driving. Having some issues that I think are tuning related. Not sure if these ECU's "Learn" but some new tuning is coming soon anyway. Apparently the car is acting very lazy below 1800 RPMs. I'm guessing the Stage II Cams and the 56mm Turbo are not playing well with the stock tuning and there is a significant turbo lag. I should have my Boost/EGT/Trans temp gauge hooked up here by the end of the weekend. I don't actually pick up the car until Friday so I don't have an extremely detailed description.

They also mentioned that the car might be starting in second (I boogered up my shifter in a hurry trying to get the car in N one night....Long story) I will take a look at the MFD when I drive it to verify this.

After all this time I hope to have an update soon.

Any thoughts?

Sounds like a long & expensive journey!

I'm sure if you contact a good tuner on this forum they would be able to sort out all the engine management issues. When I first put my Audi conversion together I liked the power it was putting out (PD130 AWX), but once VWMikel had it tuned it was a completely different beast. That being said, the PD motors like yours (and mine) do need a tune to be able to compensate for the larger components you have. Idle regulation can usually compensate, fuel maps will need to be tweaked, and everything with the charge air pressure (turbo's) will need to be re-written. Especially due to the electronic VNT mechanism. It has a map that it wants the specified manifold absolute pressure to follow at the specific position of that Vane, when the actual pressures aren't following that map it will kick the engine into limp mode and cut the fuel back drastically.

I'd say the expensive part is over, I wouldn't think a tune would cost too much, there are 2 ECM's to deal with though so it may be more than standard. I wouldn't think it would cause too much of an issue with a tuner though as one ECM is the master controlling one bank of the engine and the other slave controlling the other.

Since you'll have the only renditions of this type for now , you'll have to do some data logging, some communications between the tuner, and a couple versions of the tune, but any of our tuners do this for no additional charge usually.
Sounds like you are getting close to being complete with this project, I'd like to see some videos of it going when you get finished (with a tune of course).
Good work
Jon

Sorry I have not updated. Been very busy at work and with other things.

I haven't noticed any leaks so that is good. I added a bit of stop leak to the PS. But then again the plastic skid plates are back on so maybe it is pooling in there and hasn't dropped yet. But so far so good.

I have been working thru a few issues. On the drive home my Steering Angle sensor light came on. I re-calibrated this last night with the VAG COM and it has not come back on yet so we will see. Hopefully I don't have to replace that $485 part.

Once arriving home the check engine light came on. It was already very sluggish but this was horrible. Would barely accelerate above 3K RPM. On startup and while cold if I give it any fuel it will surge/hesitate. Almost like it is cycling the EGR or not getting fuel. 1 second on 1 second off for about a minute after start up while cold. I'm assuming this is EGR or MAF or a something to do with my O2 sensors but not sure. I ran thru some diagnostics I found on TDI Club but most of them checked out fine.

I spent some time last night with the VAGCOM and I have some boost pressure signal and EGR issues. I tried testing them but am not to smart on the program yet. I went and logged some WOT from 3rd gear runs and it was pitiful. I cleared the DTC and went out for another run.

It was a BEAST..but still not right. All engine code lights stayed off though throughout the runs. It was lathargic unless I left off the throttle and then punched it again. Almost like double clutching with the accelerator. Then it would really take off and once it hit 3100 RPM it would REALLY launch and the front of the car would lift off the ground. Shows I'm only pulling around 17-18 PSI at full boost though (from VAGCOM and converted from milibars)

Thoughts? I think I need to change out my EGR valve but I'm sure there is more testing I can do...just not sure how to do it.

So did you end up getting it tuned yet? I remember seeing you were talking to Mark Malone about a tune.

I have not had it tuned yet. I wanted to clear up as many of the engine codes before I did. I sent him the logs the other day prior to clearing the codes and will send him the others tonight but I have not heard back from him. I presume I should probably correct any issues I can before he sends me a tune.

I think I have a bad O2 sensor and I plan to do the dielectric grease connection for my MAFs as I'm not sure if those are bad. Last night I couldn't figure out how to test them but I I did a couple of tests where the engine reved up to 1400RPM. One of them was spot on with what this forum said. The other one the upper end of the MAF reading was spot on but the lower end was really high.

I was hoping to go to the GTG up in SC in July but my wife is putting the kabosh. Hoping to find someone local that is smarter with the VAGCOM than myself that can help me work thru a few of these issues.

I get a
19514 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System 2: Insufficient Flow Detected
P3058 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1890 /min
Torque: 205.4 Nm
Speed: 110.7 km/h
Load: 19.2 %
Voltage: 13.22 V
Bin. Bits: 00001000
Mass Air / Rev.: 330.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 540.0 mg/str

16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached
P0299 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3276 /min
Torque: 331.8 Nm
Speed: 82.1 km/h
Load: 94.5 %
Voltage: 13.30 V
Bin. Bits: 00001000
Absolute Pres.: 2131.8 mbar
[FONT=&quot] Absolute Pres.: 1621.8 mbar

Here is where it failed the second time the engine light came back (after my testing)

[/FONT] 16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2688 /min
Torque: 339.7 Nm
Speed: 67.8 km/h
Load: 100.0 %
Voltage: 13.07 V
Bin. Bits: 00001000
Absolute Pres.: 2254.2 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1550.4 mbar

19514 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System 2
P3058 - 000 - Insufficient Flow Detected
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1323 /min
Torque: 173.8 Nm
Speed: 42.8 km/h
Load: 15.7 %
Voltage: 13.38 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Mass Air / Rev.: 315.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 500.0 mg/str


Thank you all. Hoepfully get this worked out.

I have had the chance to re-calibrate a Steering Angle Sensor it took quite a few tries to get it to take, and finding a nice flat place to do it. If it is the same part number as the jetta's you can get a used one for about $50. Good luck, can't wait to see this thing get tuned!

I have seen in the past the egr code set by there being an air leak pre turbo between the maf and the turbo. This lets unmetered air into the system and can really reek havock on the egr system due to there being less desired airflow past the Maf, this causes the ECM to think the air is being induced via the EGR system. Look for a poor turbo intake pipe connection from the air filter box to the turbo (I know the difficulty of doing this due to the space constraints). Concentrate on bank 2, the front cylinder should be the further cylinder back compared to the other bank of cylinders. You can double check this by setting a purposeful dtc by unplugging one Maf and seeing which side faults.

The boost pressure regulation to me seems like more of a tune issue, it's not seeing the boost it desires for the ambient settings, a tune will fix that. I also would have the O2 sensors written out of the tune too.
Jon

Talking about upgrades - is there manual gearbox for the V10 TDI? And what you do with the automatic gearbox when you go for something like 1200-1400Nm?

There is one VW Phaeton here that should be around 1300Nm and he seems to have problems with the automatic gearbox quite often.

brum said:

Talking about upgrades - is there manual gearbox for the V10 TDI? And what you do with the automatic gearbox when you go for something like 1200-1400Nm?

There is one VW Phaeton here that should be around 1300Nm and he seems to have problems with the automatic gearbox quite often.

Click to expand...

Don't know. I will never go to a manual..way to much work. I"m sure I could have one of the performance diesel transmission builders machine it for an extra set of clutches and come up with a stronger tq converter if necessary. I don't plan on ragging on it that hard and while 1000 ft pounds would be nice I'm aiming for a lot less than that to the ground.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuXTNihfluA&feature=BFa&list=HL1340918884http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISpRkT7-dHQ&list=UUzn_7H5TjhFAbr5cvWp9MfQ&index=1&feature=plcp

Sorry for the crappy video. I was taking it while driving in the neighborhood on my way to work. I plan to log it on the computer tomorrow if possible.

This is a video I took this morning of the problem I was talking about. You can see the RPM jumping approx 100 rpm really quick when given any acceleration. Only seems to last a few minutes and clears up. Also it must only be my drivers side bank as I see large puffs of smoke in conjunction with the rpm jumping out of my left tail pipe. Maybe I can't see it out of my right one but I believe it is only the drivers side.

Anyone else think this is EGR?

Did you block off the egr or not? if not, do it, then get a tune which removed the egr, now you should sure it is not egr related

if you want to keep egr it can be that one bank is getting too much egr, for a variety of reasons

I don't know how this engine operates boost control or egr. Is it done with negative pressure? Have you tested any leak in these pipings, since that could mess things pretty easily. Or those valves that control pressure / negative pressure.

Both boost and EGR are regulated with electronic actuators. I have also seen on the BRM's electronic EGR that it can stick open. I would block the exhaust flow completely too with a plate (with it tuned out too).

So thats it? What was the outcome?

I would like updates as well

Friend of mine saw it on craigslist asking if I had a hand in it a while back, so I doubt there's any other than it's gone.