Inner CV Joint Swap. Possible without yanking axles?

rudall42

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Location
carbondale, colorado
TDI
Jetta 03, NB 05
Hi. I've got a bad inner I believe. If I get the car 12 inches into the air,
can I drop the inner cvs without removing the axles, and reinstall on the
other side, as others seem to do?

Or is it better, much easier, and so forth to pull the entire axle?

Related question: As a rule, how many miles do people get out of these cv joints. my 03 jetta has 215k. Perhaps it would be better to just spring for Raxles and get both the inners and outers done at the same time?
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I changed mine at 271k miles (complete axles and joints).... however, I saved them because they appear to be okay. In this case, as indicated, I removed the complete axle and replaced with a package... CV joints, boots, etc.

I doubt you are going to get the CV Joint off with the axle still on the car. Actually, I've never changed the CV joint on an ALH. But, assuming there's little difference in them and older models, it ain't going to be easy. The CV Joints on many of the older Jettas, Rabbits, Golfs, Vanagons, Buses, etc., were sometimes very difficult to get off even with the axle clamped in a vise on the work bench..... just saying.
 

02DslPwr

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Location
Leander Texas
TDI
2002 Jetta Wagon, TDI
Or is it better, much easier, and so forth to pull the entire axle?
I just did my axles and its not difficult at all. You'll need an alignment afterwards, but over all it was not hard. You'll need one of two sized triple-square sockets to get them off though. M8 for manual and m12 for autos IIRC.

Edited to correct socket size.
 
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PDJetta

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 6, 2003
Location
Northern Virginia
TDI
'04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
The manuals take a M8 tripple square bit for the inner CV joint bolts.

--Nate
 

A5INKY

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Location
Louisville, KY
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
I just did my axles and its not difficult at all. You'll need an alignment afterwards...
I saw a post from Jeff Roberts awhile back about loosening and retightening the 3 lower ball joint nuts on both sides with the weight of the car on them before realigning it. This slides the ball joint to the end of the slots. Once you do that, you can service axles, clutches etc. without the need for realignment. Works good.
 

bengone1

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Oct 15, 2010
Location
Newport News VA
TDI
1998 VW GTi 1Z powered. 06 Jetta PD. 01 allroad 6sp
There is a little bit of adjustment on the three lower ball joint mounting holes. I generally set these to the farthest outboard position before getting an alignment just to maximize negative camber (however small). I fail to see the point of placing the car on the ground to accomplish this unless you are very weak. Possible he meant tightening the control arm pivot bolt so as to reduce tension on the bushings?

You will notice the ball joint bolt heads leave marks. Very carefully re-install in the same marks and you will not alter your alignment. Even if you had them off by the slightest of margins the alignment shop would never be able to tell. Only a HIGHLY skilled alignment tech that is in LOVE with you will do more than get his equipment in the "green" and lock it down. Of course that does not apply to MK4 and up as there is no camber adjustment.

To the OP. You should remove the entire axle to swap the inner. If you flex the outer CV joint too much a ball can pop out and ruin your day.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
You start loosening the three bolts on the bottom of the Ball-joint, you will definitely need an alignment. Those three bolts will affect both Camber and Toe adjustment(s).

Loosen and remove the big nut on top of the ball-joint. Using the appropriate punch and heavy hammer, knock the control arm down and the ball joint will separate from the steering knuckle ......... If I remember correctly, tie rod end needs to come off too.... to provide room for the steering knuckle to move back far enough for the CV Joint/axle to drop off the axle flange once it is unbolted. And, of course, the big nut on the end of the axle must be removed (impact gun works good).

When you go back, there's no need to do an alignment as long as you didn't loosen the bottom bolts on the ball joint or loosen the tie rod end on the tie rod........ at least I've never done one and no tire wear either.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Location
Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin, USA
TDI
03 Jetta, 03 TT TDI
I don't seem to remember having to remove the ball joints or anything on the suspension when I've removed the axle?

Take the transmission end off first, then slide (or hammer if it's stuck) it out of the spindle.

And yes, it may be possible to change the inner CV boot/joint without removing the axle from the car, but unless you like a challange, I wouldn't recommend doing it.
 

A5INKY

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Location
Louisville, KY
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
There is a little bit of adjustment on the three lower ball joint mounting holes. I generally set these to the farthest outboard position before getting an alignment just to maximize negative camber (however small). I fail to see the point of placing the car on the ground to accomplish this unless you are very weak...
6'5" 225#. I have never been described as weak:) Just too easy to allow the vehicle to register the ball joint to that outermost position this way. I simply leave them loose and snug 'em back down last.

Andy, I agree your way would work too, just more work IMO.

Either way, I can't see struggling with replacing that inner joint in situ when it is sooo easy to just drop the axles out.
 

A5INKY

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Location
Louisville, KY
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
hi. you mentioned Jeff Roberts. What is his screen
name, so that I can search for his post.
this!
"jsrmonster" is his screen name. Good luck finding that post, he has been around here a long time and posted much.
 

turbocharged798

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Location
Ellenville, NY
TDI
99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
Hi. I've got a bad inner I believe. If I get the car 12 inches into the air,
can I drop the inner cvs without removing the axles, and reinstall on the
other side, as others seem to do?

Or is it better, much easier, and so forth to pull the entire axle?

Related question: As a rule, how many miles do people get out of these cv joints. my 03 jetta has 215k. Perhaps it would be better to just spring for Raxles and get both the inners and outers done at the same time?
I am at 303Kmi and climbing with the orignal CVs. I did, however, do the inner CV left and right swap + repack as around 250K I was getting some bad vibes on accell. the outers seem to last forever if the boot stays in tact.
 

JB05

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Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Location
Il.USA
TDI
Golf,2005,anthracite blue
I thought it was heat from the exhaust that affected the inner CV on the right side, IIRC. This is just hear-say; I have no experience in this matter.
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
on MKIV 02J it's unnecessary to loosen the ball joints when removing the axles.....just loosen both the lower sway bar end link bolts and rotate the sway bar up and out of the way.....if you're removing the drivers axle turn the wheel full left (full right for the passenger side), unbolt the axle from the flange and shove the inner joint up and over the trans while slipping the splines out of the hub...it's tight but they both come out this way....no alignment necessary ;)
 
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AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Doing it ....

on MKIV 02J it's unnecessary to loosen the ball joints when removing the axles.....just loosen both the lower sway bar end link bolts and rotate the sway bar up and out of the way.....if you're removing the drivers axle turn the wheel full left (full right for the passenger side), unbolt the axle from the flange and shove the inner joint up and over the trans while slipping the splines out of the hub...it's tight but they both come out this way....no alignment necessary ;)

I'll buy that! I wasn't sure how tight it might be or if possible. I've removed several axles but only because the other stuff was being taken out at the same time ........

Thanks Jimbote for clearing this up!
 

Birdman

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Joined
Apr 7, 1999
Location
Near Hagerstown MD.
TDI
Jetta 2001 Died by Truck one snowy day. Jetta 2003
These newer cars are so much stronger then the older rabbits, seems like I was changing outside boots every 50000 miles. But then the road back here was in a lot worse shape which may have something to do which it. But these newer boots seem thicker and stronger, I never see much about people having problems with them.
 

turbos10

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Location
Texas
TDI
2004 Golf
Anyone know if this can be done on an MKIII? Instructions say loosen the ball joint, but my laziness suggest I might be able to skip that step.
 
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