2.5 Jetta Won't Start--Any Suggestions?

That picture illustrates why VAG cannot make chain drives: they use old-fashioned, single-roller chains riding across too many fragile bits of plastic.

The newer engines are improved, but still single-roller. So they may make it 200k miles before it becomes an issue. You won't ever see 500,000 mile 2.5L engines like you do TDIs. This is why. Who is gonna spend $2500+ every 100-200k miles just to keep the engine from cruncking itself to pieces? This is why Nissans are throwaway cars, and now so are Toyotas and Hondas.

I am really, really thinking hard about dumping my 07 2.5 for a $16,000 Jetta 2.0 bottom feeder. The 2.0 has all the safety of the earlier car and should be absolutely bulletproof.

That SOHC crossflow 2.0L non-turbo is a great engine. One of the simplest engines on the market right now. So what if it only makes 115hp? It'll still be making 115hp 300,000 miles down the road.

And the price on the Jetta S makes it a darn good value, in my book. Especially for a Volkswagen!

Dang, man, my son bought the wrong car. I just called a really good repair shop my mother has used for the past 20 years when I can't work on her cars. Ballpark, $6000 plus to fix.

Ski in NC said:

Uggh. Super important plastic pieces being rubbed on by fast moving steel chain bits under load.

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I was thinking writing a letter to VW about this to see if they would offer any assistance, until I found this, DENIED 2000 miles out of warranty (50,000 mile warranty):

http://www.reesphotos.com/VW/

Boy, this motor is a FAIL!

Thank you for all of your input so far.

--Nate

oilhammer said:

That SOHC crossflow 2.0L non-turbo is a great engine. One of the simplest engines on the market right now. So what if it only makes 115hp? It'll still be making 115hp 300,000 miles down the road.

And the price on the Jetta S makes it a darn good value, in my book. Especially for a Volkswagen!

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I haven't looked at power enhancement for this engine, but I assume that 115HP is just a starting point? Would 150 be a reasonable number for balance of power and longevity?

whitedog said:

I haven't looked at power enhancement for this engine, but I assume that 115HP is just a starting point? Would 150 be a reasonable number for balance of power and longevity?

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Since it has no turbocharger, no variable valving, and not much in the way of extra room for larger displacement, I'd say it would not be economically feasible to expect much in the tuning department.

There have been turbo kits made for the older 2.0L crossflows, but once the 1.8t engines came out, these kinda went away. Besides, one the of the best attributes of this engine is its simplicity. Why mess with a good thing?

I Now Have the Incentive I Need to Get Started

I just found this thread on the VW Vortex where this 23-year old replaced the timing chains and valves in his 2.5. He pulled the front clip off and pulled the engine and tranny right out the front. I can do that! Time to get wrenching! I just needed verification this could be done at home.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5626157-New-member-with-06-Jetta

--Nate

oilhammer said:

Since it has no turbocharger, no variable valving, and not much in the way of extra room for larger displacement, I'd say it would not be economically feasible to expect much in the tuning department.

There have been turbo kits made for the older 2.0L crossflows, but once the 1.8t engines came out, these kinda went away. Besides, one the of the best attributes of this engine is its simplicity. Why mess with a good thing?

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So it would take ore than just a tune, it appears. That is the way I was thinking. A mild tune to give it a bit more and call it good. Ohg well. it was a thought.

Let's put it this way: I had an ABA 2.0L (the first crossflow, the one used in the A3 G/J starting in 1993) in a pair of 1995 Golfs. I spent some $400 for a Nuespeed tune kit, which consisted of a different PROM for the ECU, different thermostat, and a different air filter that I did not use. All it did was make the car require premium gas, eat more of it, and constantly cause lambda sensor problems. It *might* have given an extra 8hp when it was all said and done. Completely useless.

In essence, all it did was negate the knock sensor input, crank the timing map to the max, run a wee bit richer and drop out of closed loop at almost anything beyond 1/2 throttle. A joke, really. In the end, there just is not enough reserve capacity in those engines as they are, given what little you can really change. They already have plenty of fueling capacity. They already breathe just fine, both intake AND exhaust. The camshafts already are pretty aggressive given the high lift VAG engines usually require anyways due to the 2-valve design.

I learn so much with my bad ideas. LOL!

PDJetta said:

I just found this thread on the VW Vortex where this 23-year old replaced the timing chains and valves in his 2.5. He pulled the front clip off and pulled the engine and tranny right out the front. I can do that! Time to get wrenching! I just needed verification this could be done at home.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5626157-New-member-with-06-Jetta

--Nate

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Why do you have to pull the head? The chains and associated bits are on the back of the head and block aren't they?

RabbitGTI said:

Why do you have to pull the head? The chains and associated bits are on the back of the head and block aren't they?

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Because when the chain tooefs, it bends valves.

oilhammer said:

Because when the chain tooefs, it bends valves.

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OOPS, I forgot about the toofing, I was thinking RR the bits because of chain slap thus preventing toofing.

RabbitGTI said:

OOPS, I forgot about the toofing, I was thinking RR the bits because of chain slap thus preventing toofing.

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Yeah, the OP's car has already past the tooef threshold, so the head has to come off, unfortunately.

Oh, the toofig.......................

RabbitGTI said:

Why do you have to pull the head? The chains and associated bits are on the back of the head and block aren't they?

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Because I need to verify that the valves aren't bent, which I think they are. I'll also have to remove the valves to check them (look for bent stems).

--Nate

PDJetta said:

Because I need to verify that the valves aren't bent, which I think they are. I'll also have to remove the valves to check them (look for bent stems).

--Nate

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Ya, I screwed up, I know why you have to pull the head, but I read the thread about the Mexican guy who pulled the head on his mom's car when he was doing preventive R&R because of noise. I got the two cars mixed up.

Now I am leaning towards swapping in a used motor. I need to find out if a 2008 MY will work.

I must be loosing my touch. I seem to be breaking about half of the electrical connectors. I just can't get many of them to release!

--Nate

^^^ about connectors, I work on my VW's and many others for friends and family. I have found dental tools work great to fish around and release the bizarre connectors VW uses.

Thanks, that is a great tip.

--Nate

PDJetta said:

Thanks, that is a great tip.

--Nate

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Had to replace a coolant temp sensor on a 2000 Eurovan. Sensor was on the bottom front of the engine. Could not get the connector off. Slipped the tip of a 180 degree dental tool into the top side of the connector on the engine block side and it fell off. ***. Ever since that when I get my teeth cleaned I sweettalk the nurse and go home with a plastic bag of goodies.

I rarely have problems with those connectors anymore. Just push them onto the connection farther(as if you were putting them on from them already being off), press the button and they usually slide right off.
Do not use a flat head to try to release them.

That is what I am doing wrong! I am depressing the tab as I PULL the connector off. The pulling must put tension on the lock tab, preventing it from releasing. I'll push in then depress the tab and the pull the connector off.

--Nate

Progress so far. I am about 8 hours in to it. CV joints and down pipe are disconnnected too. There was no way around not disconnecting the refrigerant lines. Almost no refrigerant came out. Took about three minutes of venting on the service valves, that was it. There must be a leak in the system. I now have an excuse to buy a set of AC guages and an A/C vacuum pump. I'll recharge it myself.



--Nate

JFettig said:

I rarely have problems with those connectors anymore. Just push them onto the connection farther(as if you were putting them on from them already being off), press the button and they usually slide right off.
Do not use a flat head to try to release them.

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dental tools still help because sometimes it is hard to get at the release tab.

Yes, I that problem too.

--Nate

Sounds Too Good to Be True

I located a CBUA engine with 853 miles on it from a 2011 Jetta that took a HARD door hit. $1500 plus 105 shipping. Pictures of the car are posted, so I guess it is ligetimate. Its from a well known salvage yard. Not shure if this would be "plug and play" or if I have to tranfer all the sensors from the BGP engine over. I guess obvious stuff that is the same I can use from the new motor.

On salvage yard web sites, if you sort by a 2005.5 2.5 liter, engines from 2005 - 2011 come up, so I guess it will work. I did read that the 6th generation Jettas used the exact engines that the 5th generation did.

How do you total a car with 853 miles on it Their loss my gain.

--Nate

PDJetta said:

How do you total a car with 853 miles on it Their loss my gain.

--Nate

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Park it on Jason and Lawsons street.

Harr Harr

-J