CV axle on its way out?

Been searching a lot about when CV axles are going out lately, can't seem to find anything that matches my symptoms.

The last two days, when I take a left turn at speed, like an off ramp for a freeway, I get this hard clicking sort of noise and it feels like the right wheel is locking up. I've tried the usual, hard turn left/right in a parking lot at low speeds to check for noise, got nada. I wouldn't imagine it be the wheel bearing, as it's only left turns, plus the bearing is only a year old and hasn't given any other reason for concern.

So far I've only noticed it twice, and it's been on the same off ramp on the freeway. What should I check? My suspension is all new, so we can eliminate A arms and such.

Bump, nobody?

Sounds like the outer CV joint on the right axle.

Is the axle OEM?

CV joint failure mode:

outer: clicking/snapping when turning sharp, typically worse (at first) under a load, but will progress to making noise even when just rolling.

inner: vibration/shudder under acceleration, turning or going straight, and with TDIs can be felt often all the way up to highway speeds, may even shake the steering wheel slightly and feel like a tire/wheel imbalance but will lessen or go away completely when not under an acceleration load.

CV joints do NOT care about braking loads, nor any swaying side to side while at speed.

Good thing to do is check all the suspension components' fasteners for tightness, better with the weight of the car on the wheels (like it is when driving) rather than lifted off the ground. So if you do not have access to a drive on lift, some ramps can usually afford you the space necessary to slide under and get to things while the car sits.

I would also make sure the brake components are secure.

jokila said:

Sounds like the outer CV joint on the right axle.

Is the axle OEM?

Click to expand...

Yes it's an OEM shaft. And it seems to be doing all the symptoms that Oilhammer suggested, minus the auditable noise at low speeds. Seems to do it only when accelerating decently when taking a left. More like a snapping noise. Guess it's time to overhaul a CV. It's my first time, haven't found a DYI yet, does someone have a link to one?

https://www.idparts.com/outer-cv-joint-and-boot-kit-gkn-a4-manual-speed-auto-p-5672.html


I'd just put a new GKN joint on it.

Easy (but messy) job. Hardest part, and even that usually isn't *that* hard, is removal of the shaft itself.

You can swap joints (both inners and outers) left to right, and you get a new surface for the next however many miles, as the unloaded side of the bearings don't get much wear. Doesn't make them like new, but does at least get you another ~50% the service life they got the first go around.

Well I already have a spare OEM axle that has a split boot. I'll practice on it. I assume once the clamp is removed, the end just slides off?

Kind of, sometimes they can be difficult.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbf2Oa5ZXGo

Well, yes, you can swap sides. But, certainly not before you totally disassemble the joint, thoroughly clean it, and carefully inspect the cage for cracks. If he knows what he is talking about regarding the wheel "binding," it could well be a broken cage in there.

If my parts show up tomorrow like UPS says they will, I'll be tearing it down this weekend and share what I find, I parked the car as of Monday, because I don't want it to lock up on me.

Get the Knipex snap ring pliers for the inner.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-6-3-4-in-Circlip-Pliers-for-Special-Rings-45-10-170/205944401

cheers,
Douglas

Well that doesn't look good. 5 out of 6 look like that. Probably why it was starting to lock up. Two new ends and it's a lot quieter now.

Yep, and see how it is just worn on that one side? That is why you can flip them and run them in the opposite direction and get a little more life out of them. Because they only load to one direction. Yours are pretty typical of a higher mileage unit that perhaps was never serviced.

oilhammer said:

Yep, and see how it is just worn on that one side? That is why you can flip them and run them in the opposite direction and get a little more life out of them. Because they only load to one direction. Yours are pretty typical of a higher mileage unit that perhaps was never serviced.

Click to expand...

When you say flip, you mean swap sides, not actually flip it and install it in reverse, right?

Yes, swap sides of the car, and this can be done with both the inners AND outers.

This was very common practice with the rear engined dubs, especially the Transporters, as their axles normally run at a pretty extreme angle. But on those, unless it was an automatic, the axles were the same left and right, so you could just flip the whole thing.

Rather than creating a new thread, I will piggyback on this one...

2005 JettaTDI 09a auto
Full suspension refresh roughly 40k miles ago
NEW OEM CV shafts from IDPARTS roughly 30k miles ago.
New sway bars links 5k miles ago (clunking)
Car tracks great down the road

I have a shudder/vibration under acceleration that hits consistently at 40mph and lasts to about 50mph, only under acceleration. Coasting or turning, smooth. 55mph and higher, smooth.

Is it my CV shafts again after only 30k miles??

Is it in any specific gear? Converter lock up command?

I've noticed it primarily accelerating between 40-50. I've also noticed it on the highway, only under acceleration. It does it with and without the convertor locked up.

But you do not know what gear it is in? Can you Tip it, so you are certain of which gear? I would assume at that speed it could be 4th or 5th. Tip it in both and see if there is any change.

Happens in 3rd, 4th and 5th under acceleration when locked in gear via Tip. I also noticed I have a vibration about 80mph on a smooth surface (a rarity here in MI)

Are the 09A axles interchangeable with 01m? If so...you should perhaps call me...
cheers,
Douglas

I was also reminded that I did NOT replace the inner tie rod ends 40k miles ago.

Side note: in 3k miles, I plan to change trans fluid along with engine oil, fuel filter etc.

I would try and push some more grease into the inner, especially the right inner, joint. May also want to try and verify the drivetrain is centered properly in the car, and that all the mounts are good.

oilhammer said:

I would try and push some more grease into the inner, especially the right inner, joint. May also want to try and verify the drivetrain is centered properly in the car, and that all the mounts are good.

Click to expand...

Finally got it up on jacks... BOTH inner joints slung all their grease out, but neither boot is torn. It looks like the grease squeezed out where the larger diameter of the boot is compressed onto the metal part. I'm afraid if I squirt more grease in with my needle fitting, it will just sling back out.

Both outer boots are fine BTW.

Advice?

Take it off, remove the boot (get a new one, obviously) and figure out what's going on. Betcha the boot is compromised at the joint.

Also while you're in there, if you're not replacing, swap each joint to the other side. It'll wear on the surface of the joint that's never been used so it'll be 'like new'

Genesis said:

Take it off, remove the boot (get a new one, obviously) and figure out what's going on. Betcha the boot is compromised at the joint.

Click to expand...

Nero Morg said:

Also while you're in there, if you're not replacing, swap each joint to the other side. It'll wear on the surface of the joint that's never been used so it'll be 'like new'

Click to expand...

I didn't think the 09a auto CV joints were swappable like that?

The tripod joint shell may have crimps on it that do not allow the three bearings to slide out. Lots of that type of joint is like that. But what you can do is remove the OUTER joint and boot, and slide the inner boot up the axle enough to service the inner joint with fresh grease and slide the boot back down and put a new crimp clamp on.

Odd that this happened so quickly on new OEM shafts, though.

oilhammer said:

The tripod joint shell may have crimps on it that do not allow the three bearings to slide out. Lots of that type of joint is like that. But what you can do is remove the OUTER joint and boot, and slide the inner boot up the axle enough to service the inner joint with fresh grease and slide the boot back down and put a new crimp clamp on.

Odd that this happened so quickly on new OEM shafts, though.

Click to expand...

I was able to add grease to both inner joints, 4oz to each (digital electric grease gun). I used 4oz because that's how much the grease pack comes with if you buy a boot kit. I used stainless zip ties and a tensioner tool to re-secure the boots. Vibration has gone down significantly, but is still there. However, I also see now that I need front pads and rotors, so that's on the list...