Throttle response!!!!!?????

Brewer

Active member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Location
Morehead KY
TDI
1998 jeep cherokee alh
So I average my jeep xj build pretty much done. Just tweeking some final finishing touches.. Well I have a strange problem and I cant trace it down.. It's a alh 10 mm pump 1019 dlc and a malone stage 4 with vnt 17. Immo deleted. Egr delete. Maf delete and some more deletes that I can't think of yet haha. But it starts up and runs great except for the first time you put it in gear and try to pull it dives on its nose and completely cuts the throttle. Let out of the accelerator and get back in it in a few seconds and it's fine and doesn't do it any more until you cycle the key again. No cel.. No nothing just super strange
 

smelly621

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Location
Sonoma County, CA
TDI
2001 Golf, 2003 Tacoma
I think that behavior happens when the ECU is unhappy with the brake pedal switch situation. I initially had them connected backwards and my swap did the same.

One switch should get 12v when the pedal is up, the other should get 12v when the pedal is depressed. You may have them swapped.
 

Brewer

Active member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Location
Morehead KY
TDI
1998 jeep cherokee alh
I would say that will definitely be a problem because I do t have the brake switch hooked up at all.. Lol
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
In measuring block 006 of VCDS all pedals need to be "0" - if the brake is on, and by default with nothing connected to it, it is, this will happen.

I have a nifty and inexpensive little box that has a Clutch and Brake inputs that is "conventional style" where at rest there is 0V and pressed there is 12V and the output is the correct output for the 1999.5 and later engines - Clutch/Brake Switch input: 12V=At Rest | 0V = Pressed and Brake Light input: 0V = At Rest, 12V = Pressed
 

Frankenyota

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Location
Tampa
TDI
ahu/88 4runner
If you don't care about cruise control you can just ground both brake wires. That's how I wired mine up and I don't have any issues.
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
If you don't care about cruise control you can just ground both brake wires. That's how I wired mine up and I don't have any issues.
That would present an incorrect signal on a ALH and later engine.

Having a functioning brake circuit is in my opinion a very critical thing. When you press the brake the power is cut and that process is very high in the importance table. Safety #1
 

Rockwell

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
I use a DPST relay triggered by the brake light signal for the ECU brake inputs. It toggles the signal when you step on the brakes. Easy.
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
I use a DPST relay triggered by the brake light signal for the ECU brake inputs. It toggles the signal when you step on the brakes. Easy.
I used to do it that way, but a lot of customers complained about "click click" every time they applied the brakes. N-Channel MOSFET is tiny and quiet!
 
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