toyota/jeep swap using quicktime+novak....

jimbote said:

I have a suggestion 89, rather than locating your gauge on the inside of the pilot area why not machine it to locate snugly around the boss of the crank and then bolt it tightly to the the flange of the crank....this would eliminate any wobble that could occur from inserting it into the pilot area of the crank, then you can test it by bolting it up, sticking a dial indicator on the block and then dial indicating the very end of your gauge while turning the motor over with a ratchet...

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Good idea I just need to find a suitable way of bolting it into the crank flange being that the entire thing will be cylindrical...actually I've already got an idea just sitting here lol

A very ****ty crude drawing of my idea of an alignment tool to be used

that's kind of the idea 89, but with the flange centered on the outside of the crank boss and flush against the crank flange

Alignment tool completed! Willing to rent it out slips over the beveled edge of the crank boss and then also bolts in using the flywheel bolts

Has there been any more research into this? I'm getting ready to swap an ALH in to my 81 Toyota. Is it possible to indicate the throw out sleeve with everything bolted together (leaving the clutch and throw out parts out) and have that closes enough to drill and pin it for reassembly?

opiejudd said:

Has there been any more research into this? I'm getting ready to swap an ALH in to my 81 Toyota. Is it possible to indicate the throw out sleeve with everything bolted together (leaving the clutch and throw out parts out) and have that closes enough to drill and pin it for reassembly?

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probably not .... you need to be within about .005" ... dial indicator is the most repeatably accurate way to center the bellhousing... also drilling and pinning is not really a good way to lock your plate in once centered, drill bits wander and holes rarely come out round and straight... i recommend backwelding the pins to the edges of the plate once inserted through adjacent dowel holes in the bell

jimbote said:

probably not .... you need to be within about .005" ... dial indicator is the most repeatably accurate way to center the bellhousing... also drilling and pinning is not really a good way to lock your plate in once centered, drill bits wander and holes rarely come out round and straight... i recommend backwelding the pins to the edges of the plate once inserted through adjacent dowel holes in the bell

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Thanks for the responce. I just want to get this right the first time. Do you by chance have some pictures of pins welded? Or should I look into making some sore of fixturing to get things centered? (I work at a CNC machine shop and have access to the mills and lathes.)

ok so thanks to jimbote Ive been made aware if this centering issue. I just placed the BEW in the 4runner with the v6 transmission. Has any one made a jig or anything to center up the engine using the acme plate to a v6 toyota trans?

89vr6 said:

Alignment tool completed! Willing to rent it out slips over the beveled edge of the crank boss and then also bolts in using the flywheel bolts

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will this work with the v6 toyota trans?

wes300zx said:

will this work with the v6 toyota trans?

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won't be as accurate as a dial indicator... plus bearing size on the two trannies (r series vs w) are different

Resurrecting this one to see if anyone else has ever used the setup initially suggested in the title and first post? It turned into more of an ACME/DIY adapter alignment thread, but I thought this was really critical information at the beginning for those looking to build a higher powered VW turbodiesel paired with a Toyota v6 R150 or Jeep4.0L/DakotaV6 AX-15.


Cost is a bit spendy, but cheaper than ebay price for an 86-87 22RTE USA turbo pickup application R151F to 22R bellhousing + a Diesel Conversion Specialists Adapter plate and crank flange spacer/flywheel adapter...
$1379 for this route with the Quick Time RM-4082 dowel pinned racecar grade steel VW 4cyl to GM 4 bolt Tremec/Muncie bellhousing (accurate to .0005"!!!) + Novak Adapters GM 4 bolt Tremec/Muncie Bellhousing adapter plate to Jeep/Dakota AX15 (and 1996+ Toyota R150 - longer input shaft than earlier 86-95 R150/R151)




https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/bellhousings/parts/RM-4082

https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/engine-to-transmission/ax15/kit-gmax15/












vs approximately $1100 give or take if you can find the elusive R151F 22RTE 86-87 turbo pickup bellhousing off ebay $475 or so... if and when you can find one, + the $620 DCS adapter plate:


https://www.dieselconversion.com/adapter-plate-toyota-w56-to-1998-2002-vw-1-9-tdi.html
(Gas To Diesel Conversions makes a similar adapter to the DCS, but it costs a little more and is a 2 piece modular adapter)








































I have a 22RTE R151F turbo truck bellhousing now and am planning on using that setup with the DCS adapter and as many other parts as I can use from ACME in making an ALH swap into a Samurai (glow plug harness+relay, filter housing, etc - Have to support Jeff @ ACME for all he continues to do for these swaps, just know that you need to check alignment if you buy the ACME kit...)



I also have been planning for years to use this Dakota V6 Magnum AX15 that I have and that Novak GMAX15 adapter plate to go into my 1962 GMC big block V6 to have an overdrive trans for good unloaded freeway cruising. The AX15 doesn't do well with hauling big loads in 5th due to the retainer design of 5th gear, sticking back on the rear side of the mid plate on the end of the shaft. That is, if I don't find a deal on an NV4500 from a Dodge diesel application beforehand... that will really beef up the strength of the drivetrain, but the big block 351C V6 (900lbs) and the Dana 44 rear already weigh a ton, plus a 230lb NV4500 5 speed... the AX15 will be way more fun and enjoyable and with a useable first gear for normal driving, just can't haul heavy loads in overdrive 5th. Perhaps upgrading to R150 clusters may be the solution, they don't have that AX problem. Or run an R150 2wd 1996+ trans

Chuck78 said:

Resurrecting this one to see if anyone else has ever used the setup initially suggested in the title and first post? It turned into more of an ACME/DIY adapter alignment thread, but I thought this was really critical information at the beginning for those looking to build a higher powered VW turbodiesel paired with a Toyota v6 R150 or Jeep4.0L/DakotaV6 AX-15.

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I do make a Jeep 4L/ AX15 adapter as well as a Toyota 22R, 3L V6 and 3.4L V6.