2006 Jetta air conditioner

OK, I looked under the hood a bit better at the fan setup. Looks like there is one shround that both fans are connected to. A torx (or triple square?) screw holds it in place at each corner. I take it the entire shroud needs to come out to replace the fan?

I tried tapping on the smaller fan motor to see if it would act like it wanted to fire......nothing. I see IDparts has the fan for $130 or so. Anybody use this one?

Thanks everyone for the help. If this doesn't help my problem (air getting warmer when stopped) then I will then extract and recharge refridgerant and possibly the hi/low pressure switch.

While even VW sometimes calls it a Hi/LO pressure switch (which it really was before May 99), it is a high pressure sensor named G65.

Taking the four torx 30 screws out of the corner of that shroud will allow the whole thing to come out (the bottom, I think), but you can also sometimes take loose just the 3 torx 30 screws on the support legs of the individual fan assembly...

I think IDparts is a good source for the fan. Reasonable quality at reasonable prices. Don't go to Advance Auto for cheaper ones unless you don't mind doing it again - you are liable to need their warranty.

I didn't see any screws that would allow for just removal of the small fan?

I may be in error.
Does the small fan have three spider legs on it that go to the main shroud? Are there torx 30 screws at the point the spider legs meet the main shroud?
Dan

DanG144 said:

I may be in error.
Does the small fan have three spider legs on it that go to the main shroud? Are there torx 30 screws at the point the spider legs meet the main shroud?
Dan

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I can't seey ANY fasteners anywhere on the outside area of fan.

I guess you have to take the whole shroud off, then. Sorry for the confusion. I do not have an 06 to look at so I was going from memory - always risky.

It's not obvious to me either as to how the fan comes out.

I feel three fasteners near the motor beneath the blades but, I suspect the entire should needs to be removed.

It is not possible to take the fan motor apart without removing the fans and shroud unit.

It is held on with four torx screws that go toward the radiator. I just looked. Two on the left side, and two on the right.

You also need to remove the air intake first. It just snaps off.

After that, look for screws that hold the motor together. I can't see it without taking my fans out.

I can tell you that the job should be preposterously easy. I remember it taking some insanely short amount of time to remove the fans and clean the small fan brushes. You should be able to get the fans out of the car in under five minutes. Cleaning the motor will take longer. Just remember how it goes back together and that you may need something to hold the spring loaded brushes back during reassembly.

john_tsouris@hotmail.com said:

It is not possible to take the fan motor apart without removing the fans and shroud unit.

It is held on with four torx screws that go toward the radiator. I just looked. Two on the left side, and two on the right.

You also need to remove the air intake first. It just snaps off.

After that, look for screws that hold the motor together. I can't see it without taking my fans out.

I can tell you that the job should be preposterously easy. I remember it taking some insanely short amount of time to remove the fans and clean the small fan brushes. You should be able to get the fans out of the car in under five minutes. Cleaning the motor will take longer. Just remember how it goes back together and that you may need something to hold the spring loaded brushes back during reassembly.

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Can it be done from the top? All my reading states I need to remove skidplate to get bottom screws, 50/50 removing top\bottom. I think I'm gonna order a new fan. I tapped on it and there was no signs of life. Usually a good jolt will wanna make it jump or something. Plus, I ahve never taken a fan motor apart .

I don't recall having to do anything from the bottom. All four screws are very easy to get to. Two on each side. There may be tabs or something on the bottom that you have to slip the shroud back into when re-installing.

There is absolutely nothing to taking those little motors apart. It's harder to do an oil change than to do this motor repair.

The problem with the fan change is, dirt can work its way into the new fan as well.

john_tsouris@hotmail.com said:

I don't recall having to do anything from the bottom. All four screws are very easy to get to. Two on each side. There may be tabs or something on the bottom that you have to slip the shroud back into when re-installing.

There is absolutely nothing to taking those little motors apart. It's harder to do an oil change than to do this motor repair.

The problem with the fan change is, dirt can work its way into the new fan as well.

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Just took another look. Seems once the airbox is out of the way I should be able to get the lower drivers size screw out. Lower pass side looks like a ******!

I have never done a fan cleaning like this, but there is a 1st for everything. Maybe I will pull the fan out and see if I can fix it. Whats teh worst that can happen, I gotta buy a new one? Which I already planned on.

I am having the same issue on a 2009 JSW with 70k miles, will check the fans tonight. Not sure what else I can do without any AC equipment, but it seems to me the pressure must be correct if the AC works just fine 'sometimes'. Would anything show in the vagcom?

so i replaced both fans today....pretty easy......got at it from underneath....it was only a matter of removing a few hoses and pulling out the shroud...removing the fans and replacing with the new ones and reinstalling he shroud.......new fans work great!!

found 2 torex head screws in the box today....no idea what they are for....never seen any on the old fans i took out....anyone?

Easy enough with a 1/4" rachet and a T30 bit. One T30 screw found on each corner of the shroud. A bit tight on the upper drivers side due to the radiator hose. Lower drivers side has the intercooler hose in the way for shroud removal. I removed the air hose clip and removed the T30 screw attaching the air pipe to the block. This allowed the pipe to move toward the passenger side about an inch allowing shroud to drop out the bottom. Oil change at the same time so belly pan was off.

Small fan motor was filled with road/brush dust. Runs perfect now.

BTW, wife tells me the ac gets cool much quicker now. Only other thing I did while under there was give the ac comp a few pursuasive taps on the a$$.

DSM1 said:

Small fan motor was filled with road/brush dust. Runs perfect now.

BTW, wife tells me the ac gets cool much quicker now. Only other thing I did while under there was give the ac comp a few pursuasive taps on the a$$.

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So how hard was cleaning the fan? Asking cause I don't even know what a brush looks like , thats how much of a newbie I am to the fan innards.

I found cleaning the passenger side radiator fan on my 2006 Jetta fairly easy. I followed the A4 Fan Repair Guide created by DanG144, which is much the same as the A5 fan for this purpose. I used sandpaper on the commutator, then sprayed the inner parts with disc brake cleaner and then sprayed it again with silicon lubricant. Made certain that the brushes moved freely in their spring loaded housing. Put the fan back together, tested it with 12v and it spun. Reinstalled it in the vehicle and both fans spin now. Thanks for all the helpful posts on this subject.
Note: I put the car on jack stands and removed the fan shroud assembly from the bottom, I didn’t have to remove any hoses, just wiggle it and rotate the shroud a bit and it will come out. Provided that you first remove the 4 torques screws holding the shrowd assembly.

Just got her done! About an hr total. Last week I decided just to buy a new fan ($140) and not risk taking the car apart only to find out the stock one is beyond repair. I first removed the air intake tube and housing from above the radiator, then removed the one screw holding the airbox down (2 rubber grommets also) That gave me access to the drivers top torx. Pass side top torx was easy. Without jacking up the car, I then removed only the side torx on the skid plate. It was tight, but will a little tweak of the AC line the pass bottom screw came out. Next, the drivers bottom. This one I had to jack up only that side of car. I removed the spring holding the intercooler pipe to the intercooler itself, just that one. I could them get to the last screw by just holding the rubber hose out of the way. With the airbox stuff removed, I got the fan out of the top. I pushed to drivers side, dropped down the pass side, pushed back to the left and twisted the drivers side out. Very easy. Taking the fan out is self explainitory. I bench tested the old one and it would not power up. Installed the new one and everything went back in reverse order. Fan runs! Not sure if it will help with the AC getting cooler earlier, I will find out tomorrow.

After everything was back in (dumb me), I then took apart the old fan. It was actually fairly clean inside, but one of the brushes was sticking IN. After a quick blow with some air and a simple cleaning, a bench test showed it worked. I should have done this before installing the new one . If anyone needs a small fan, I have a working one for sale

Another Note: I noticed the radiator\condenser was full of bugs. Do anyone think this could add to the problem we are having?

I did a little test with the fans the last few days. Tuesday when was leaving work I started the car and turned the AC on. I had the hood open and a hand on the vent feeling for cold air. The air was hot until the fans turned on, which took about 5 min. Wed morning did the same thing when I was leaveing for work, but it only took 2 minutes for the fans to kick on and the air to become cold. Thursday nite it took about 7 minutes from the inital start.

'bum,
The fans turn on when the AC pressure rises. So the AC starting to cool is what triggers the fans; the fans do not start the sequence of events that gives you cool air.
Dan

DanG144 said:

'bum,
The fans turn on when the AC pressure rises. So the AC starting to cool is what triggers the fans; the fans do not start the sequence of events that gives you cool air.
Dan

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Thats exactaly what I thought. I just wanted to see what the delay time was. Is there a reason it took so long? Temp here was about 80-85°. Once the pressure is built up and fans start moving, then the air was getting cold almost instantly. That would explain many guys with the 2-5 mile delay.

Am I correct in thinking that WARM (not Cold) air needs to be passed over the condensor, which is what turns the refridgerant from a gas to a liquid?

No, cold air (down to 35 F or so) is better than hot air.

The delay with the 05.5 and later Climatic and Climatronic AC compressors has been discussed a whole lot here.

The delay is a problem in the Refrigerant Control system. Either the RCValve is failing, or the screen internal to the compressor is failing, or the wobble plate operating piston is sticking.

Most people just replace the compressor, TXV, and refrigerant drier to fix it. Expensive, but fairly certain. It has fixed every case I know of - except one unlucky Texan.

I have tried adding oil (PAG 46 with ICE32 additive) to one compressor, and it is still working with no delay 2.5 months later.

Another person has replaced the RCV only, and had success.

DanG144 said:

No, cold air (down to 35 F or so) is better than hot air.

The delay with the 05.5 and later Climatic and Climatronic AC compressors has been discussed a whole lot here.

The delay is a problem in the Refrigerant Control system. Either the RCValve is failing, or the screen internal to the compressor is failing, or the wobble plate operating piston is sticking.

Most people just replace the compressor, TXV, and refrigerant drier to fix it. Expensive, but fairly certain. It has fixed every case I know of - except one unlucky Texan.

I have tried adding oil (PAG 46 with ICE32 additive) to one compressor, and it is still working with no delay 2.5 months later.

Another person has replaced the RCV only, and had success.

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Thanks for the info. I can live with the AC not kicking on for a few miles. If thats all I have to deal with on a car with almost 200k, I'm ok with it.

What is the TXV. I do,

However, I plan on going to the VW dealer and having them evac the system, new RCV and refill with refridgerant. Maybe I will have them add some oil? Or is the oil something I can do? I have never messed with the AC sytem on any car, basically because I never had to yet, but I know how to turn a wrench for sure.

Salmonbum said:

Thanks for the info. I can live with the AC not kicking on for a few miles. If thats all I have to deal with on a car with almost 200k, I'm ok with it.

What is the TXV. I do,

However, I plan on going to the VW dealer and having them evac the system, new RCV and refill with refridgerant. Maybe I will have them add some oil? Or is the oil something I can do? I have never messed with the AC sytem on any car, basically because I never had to yet, but I know how to turn a wrench for sure.

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The dealer will not replace the RCV.

I just heard from another guy that said using ICE32 fixed his compressor delay. That is two successes out of two trials. Still early days though.

The TXV is the thermal expansion valve that meters liquid refrigerant into the evaporator.

DanG144 said:

The dealer will not replace the RCV.

I just heard from another guy that said using ICE32 fixed his compressor delay. That is two successes out of two trials. Still early days though.

The TXV is the thermal expansion valve that meters liquid refrigerant into the evaporator.

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Talking to my dealer last week, he told me they replace the RCV all the time, that its a common issue. Said part was like $60.

I am willling to try the oil. Can I do this myself?

That is the FIRST time I have heard of a dealer replacing the RCV. I will have to check to see if my dealer can get one.

The way I added the PAG 46 oil with ICE32 in it was with a depressurized system - charge removed, poured it into the compressor body through the oil port. Then evacuate the system, and add the refrigerant charge.

I am waiting to hear details back from the other guy in this thread; it sounds as if he may have done something different.

DanG144 said:

That is the FIRST time I have heard of a dealer replacing the RCV. I will have to check to see if my dealer can get one.

The way I added the PAG 46 oil with ICE32 in it was with a depressurized system - charge removed, poured it into the compressor body through the oil port. Then evacuate the system, and add the refrigerant charge.

I am waiting to hear details back from the other guy in this thread; it sounds as if he may have done something different.

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I will call my dealer today and confrim he was right on the RCV. Noth the 1st time my dealer could be worng.

While you are at it, ask the price of the job...

DanG144 said:

While you are at it, ask the price of the job...

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He told me $60 for the RCV and about 1/2 labor to install. To evac and refill was $150.

Not a bad price at all.