Race pipe with anti shutter

Cha2ga

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And I can identify folks that still have their stock EGR valve (and coolers) and can claim the same!

I'm NOT saying that the EGR valve doesn't contribute to coking. What I'm saying is that improper operation has more to do with coking than people are willing to admit.

I have cleaned enough EGR valves and intakes (cleaned out a head on one car) to last me a lifetime (two!). And on the cars that I did I don't expect to have to clean them again (and they STILL have their stock components). One car went 150k miles and was running perfectly fine: I cleaned things because I replaced a bad EGR valve (turned out the valve was fine, it was the seal that was bad).

I'm running the same setup as here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5079154&postcount=24

"the intake was absolutely clean after 100k"

I guess the real question should be:
"How many clogged race pipes or SRP's are there with the same improper operation?"
If the answer is none, or hardly none. Then it is worth it. It is also worth not doing it if yours doesn't clog. Personally I'm really looking forward to it.
 

miatamike203

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And I can identify folks that still have their stock EGR valve (and coolers) and can claim the same!

I'm NOT saying that the EGR valve doesn't contribute to coking. What I'm saying is that improper operation has more to do with coking than people are willing to admit.

I have cleaned enough EGR valves and intakes (cleaned out a head on one car) to last me a lifetime (two!). And on the cars that I did I don't expect to have to clean them again (and they STILL have their stock components). One car went 150k miles and was running perfectly fine: I cleaned things because I replaced a bad EGR valve (turned out the valve was fine, it was the seal that was bad).

I'm running the same setup as here:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5079154&postcount=24

"the intake was absolutely clean after 100k"
I'll believe there are the few people who dont have to clean there intake like the rest of the forum. Now if you have a tune with Dynamic EGR then you have modded the motor to keep it from building up on the intake. Point in fact is you have done something to fix the problem either by turning it down with a tune or by deleting it completely. So i will still say you will end up with a clogged intake at some point in time unless you address your EGR in one of two ways by either a tune or by a EGR delete.

There are enough of us on this forum who have been running ALH engines since they came out. Many of us have had to go into the darn EGR system and intake manifold to clean them and we would dispute your contention.

You can baby them, you can drive the heck out of them you can utter Vodoo incantations all you want, they will clog. The best move I ever made was to "hack" the intake pipe and eliminate the problem.

This, the latest engineering and CAD-CAM approach, is based upon a lot of tech that did not exist seventeen years ago (at least not as readily available to the common tinkering type) and is a much refined industrial approach to making a working intake with shutdown/anti-shudder flap. None of the "race-pipes" up until now have offered this.

It may work fantastically offering many an option beyond the documented hacks of years earlier. Bring it on, the market will either prove it out or squish it!
Im hoping it works and im hoping it sells i have a good amount of people waiting for samples for testing and i have 3 local TDIs to do testing on. Two of the TDIs are 100% stock and the other is mine that has nozzles and stage 3 tune from malone tune. I will be doing dyno testing with all three cars and also im going to try and induce a runaway to see if the valve shuts the car down like its supposed to.
 

miatamike203

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I can appreciate that thanks

Ask and you here you go, TDi EGR heat exchanger to help with warm up and stabilization in cold weather.







Its 4" OD 3" inlet and 16" long, I can change any of the dimensions if need be. The hose fittings are 5/8 nipple, i would strongly recommend AN fittings and lines.
 

turbobrick240

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I'd be interested in the heat exchanger for my common rail. Which btw has seen nothing but ulsd, and had noticeable though not too serious sludging around the egr at 100k when it was removed.
 

miatamike203

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I'd be interested in the heat exchanger for my common rail. Which btw has seen nothing but ulsd, and had noticeable though not too serious sludging around the egr at 100k when it was removed.
If you give me some dimensions i could quote this out for you. PM me.
 

FL/COtdi

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Aspen CO
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2003 Jetta wagon
Ask and you here you go, TDi EGR heat exchanger to help with warm up and stabilization in cold weather.





Its 4" OD 3" inlet and 16" long, I can change any of the dimensions if need be. The hose fittings are 5/8 nipple, i would strongly recommend AN fittings and lines.
I would try that and quick! Thanks for putting it together! However I'm in the middle of a new brake booster that I can't get to until after next week? Then a timing belt. And snow tires of course. Plenty of dough there. So please tell me cost when you can and I might be able to fit it in with one if those jobs? We will see?

I'm curious for thoughts on rocks hitting it? What's it made of?
 

miatamike203

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I would try that and quick! Thanks for putting it together! However I'm in the middle of a new brake booster that I can't get to until after next week? Then a timing belt. And snow tires of course. Plenty of dough there. So please tell me cost when you can and I might be able to fit it in with one if those jobs? We will see?
I'm curious for thoughts on rocks hitting it? What's it made of?
Cost will depend on what you want it made of. With our welding capabilities i could make it out of anything but seeing as it needs to be welded into you exhaust it would have to be stainless. I could build it from any grade stainless you want i would stick with 316 or 304. As for the outer tube i was thinking .083" wall should be plenty strong but if wanted i could go .188" wall too.
 

DPM

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I'd caution against puttlng one of these HEs in a CR unless you've a DPF delete too.
There's massive amounts of heat in the exhaust during a regen and you'd likely be in danger of overloading the cooling system or melting any hose that connects to the HE.
 

miatamike203

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I'd caution against puttlng one of these HEs in a CR unless you've a DPF delete too.
There's massive amounts of heat in the exhaust during a regen and you'd likely be in danger of overloading the cooling system or melting any hose that connects to the HE.
I agree, i designed it to be used on the alh either after the cat or in place of the cat. Trying to use this in a vehicle that has a DPF in place could end badly.
 

turbobrick240

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I'd caution against puttlng one of these HEs in a CR unless you've a DPF delete too.
There's massive amounts of heat in the exhaust during a regen and you'd likely be in danger of overloading the cooling system or melting any hose that connects to the HE.

I absolutely agree. The dpf equipped cars over here already have an egr cooler/heat exchanger anyhow. My dpf fell off a while back along with the egr. I'm mostly interested in the heat exchanger for winter use. My frostheater works great, but idling in cold weather often pulls the coolant temps out of the optimal range. I might even use a ball valve to isolate the exchanger in warm weather.
 
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miatamike203

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I was also thinking of adding a bypass with a built in thermostat for the HE. Only problem is you need the coolant flow to keep from hurting the lines goingbto the unit and from keeping the coolant trapped in it from boiling
 

[486]

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MN
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02 golf ALH
I was also thinking of adding a bypass with a built in thermostat for the HE. Only problem is you need the coolant flow to keep from hurting the lines goingbto the unit and from keeping the coolant trapped in it from boiling
that's where I stopped on mine

figured I'd run stainless lines to it, bout a foot long away from the exhaust to dissipate the heat, then make a valve that would normally have the heater hose come in, go out to the HX, back to the valve, back out to the heater hose, quarter turn and the coolant bypasses the HX and the HX is vented to atmosphere (drained if the valve is below the level of the HX.
Sort of like the 4-port heater bypass valves on some fords, except with this one the "heater core" lines would vent rather than continuing to hold coolant.

Turn the valve once in the spring, and once in the fall. Lose a little coolant.
 

turbobrick240

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I was thinking just a simple ball valve in the supply line. It could be throttled 90% closed for the warmer months.
 

flee

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Since this could become an effective coolant boiler, I suggest a steam line routed
to the coolant reservoir as found in the factory EGR cooler.
 
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miatamike203

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that's where I stopped on mine

figured I'd run stainless lines to it, bout a foot long away from the exhaust to dissipate the heat, then make a valve that would normally have the heater hose come in, go out to the HX, back to the valve, back out to the heater hose, quarter turn and the coolant bypasses the HX and the HX is vented to atmosphere (drained if the valve is below the level of the HX.
Sort of like the 4-port heater bypass valves on some fords, except with this one the "heater core" lines would vent rather than continuing to hold coolant.

Turn the valve once in the spring, and once in the fall. Lose a little coolant.
Another way would be to add a small cooler inline with a bypass on it so that you always keep 100% water flow through the Heat exchanger. So in the cold months the extra cooler would be bypassed but in the summer the bypass will redirect into the cooler to help keep coolant temps down to normal. Would be very easy as you could use a style factory thermostat built into a housing that has one inlet from heat exchanger and two outlets, one back to the motor and the other to the cooler to control the flow of coolant into the cooler. There wouldn't be much added cost to this maybe an extra 50-100 bucks. so in total cost for the HX, bypass and cooler would be around 200 at most.

I was thinking just a simple ball valve in the supply line. It could be throttled 90% closed for the warmer months.
That might work but would have to be tested to make sure it was safe. Take a look at what i said above.
 
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turbobrick240

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Another way would be to add a small cooler inline with a bypass on it so that you always keep 100% water flow through the Heat exchanger. So in the cold months the extra cooler would be bypassed but in the summer the bypass will redirect into the cooler to help keep coolant temps down to normal. Would be very easy as you could use a style factory thermostat built into a housing that has one inlet from heat exchanger and two outlets, one back to the motor and the other to the cooler to control the flow of coolant into the cooler. There wouldn't be much added cost to this maybe an extra 50-100 bucks. so in total cost for the HX, bypass and cooler would be around 200 at most.


That might work but would have to be tested to make sure it was safe. Take a look at what i said above.
Yeah, I like that idea better. Doesn't add too much cost/complexity either.
 

miatamike203

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Yeah, I like that idea better. Doesn't add too much cost/complexity either.
Once im done with the race pipe ill test it out. If tests show it works and that it's going to be safe ill offer them as a product. For now i will offer to a few people to help test.
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
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02 golf ALH
Another way would be to add a small cooler inline with a bypass on it so that you always keep 100% water flow through the Heat exchanger.
how is that different than just using the HEINOUSLY oversized radiator that mk4 diesel cars already have?
I mean the VR6/auto combination puts way more heat into the coolant than a 4cyl TDI ever could, but they use the same radiator/fans. Maybe the same Tstat.

Before you go strapping on extra radiators, the stock setup may well be sufficient.
 

miatamike203

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how is that different than just using the HEINOUSLY oversized radiator that mk4 diesel cars already have?
I mean the VR6/auto combination puts way more heat into the coolant than a 4cyl TDI ever could, but they use the same radiator/fans. Maybe the same Tstat.

Before you go strapping on extra radiators, the stock setup may well be sufficient.
I havent had a chance to look into it that far, this has been more of just brain storming.
 

miatamike203

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So i have the blue prints for the heat exchanger parts out to a few places to quote out cost for me so i can build a few. If all goes well and works ill start building these also. Im still waiting on part for the race pipe, i have enough parts coming to build 20 units that come with everything to get the job done. Im only going to sell 5 of the 20 units here as the other 15 will be used as samples for distributors and for testing.
 

miatamike203

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Sorry about no update in a while things at work have been busy so i currently have a buddy of mine out in Utah who owns a machining company making the parts for me. The good thing is he is able to make them cheaper then me and i should be receiving parts on the 14th.
 

miatamike203

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Dropping by to see if there has been any updates. I hope you're doing well!
I just got the flange, pipe, fittings, block off and other small stuff in this morning ill take photos. Im waiting on the bearings to come in and still working on machining the shaft. I also have to machine the bearing holders one night this week. Ill upload photos tonight
 

miatamike203

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So here are the parts i have at the moment i ended up taking a slightly different rout so that i could keep cost down. I spent about 3 night locating the company in china who makes the race pipes for our cars already. There quality is very nice and saves about 20% of the cost overall. For now this is how im going to build them but i am looking at possibly having the whole body cast as that would bring the price down even lower. As for the rest of the parts they will be made here in the USA. If i get the sand casting done that will alsi be done here in the USA.

Im hoping the rest of the parts will show up some time this week so i can start getting the samples out to a few companies that are on the forums and to a few members to test. Once testing is done i will have a final cost for the part.



 

miatamike203

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All my material came in today so ill start machining and welded the parts this weekend. Goal is to have all 20 ptototypes ready for next weekend to ship to companies, people for testing and to see about having the units cast.
 

miatamike203

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So i havent had time to machine a compound punch and die to make the butterflies yet. So to get the prototypes done i bought round bar stock aluminun to make them from. Once there in production they will be stamped stainless steel. To make them out of the bar stock i first turn the outside to its final dimension so that way the rest of my machining will be true. Next I'll cut the bar into 4" sections then bring it over to the cnc to through drill the 2 bolt holes. After that its back to the lathe to slice the bar into butterflies.

I olny had time tonight to turn the bar true and cut it into sections.



 
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