P2015 intake manifold flap fix how-to

frugality

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Location
Spring Lake, Michigan
TDI
none, 2016 GTI
At 221,000 miles I expect some parts to need replacement, however that does not excuse poor design of parts at wear points being designed to hold up properly. This is a stop and should be pretty simple. I guess tat plastic has a good percentage chance of making it through the warranty period and then the owner can jus buy a new manifold and pay the dealer to replace it.
I bought the car for long term reliability and paid a premium for it. As is said sometimes you get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get.
In this case I am paying $65 plus freight for what VW should have designed to not need in the first place.
Along with RCV valves, VNT actuators, DPFs , 2 Micron filters, and roof drain tubes etc.
I am just glad that DieselGeek has found the solution and I can get it for only $65 and freight vs. a new manifold and labor. All in all a good deal, but should not be necessary.
I work in automotive engineering. If you knew how the automotive development process worked (or rather, often fails to work), you'd understand! :)
 

redbarron55

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Location
Navarre, FL.
TDI
2012 Touareg TDI Executive
I work in automotive engineering. If you knew how the automotive development process worked (or rather, often fails to work), you'd understand! :)
I have been involved with R&D of one kind or another for 45 years and I do understand.
Of the the most important thing is the D since this is how things become reliable and more robust.
The R part creates new vistas of failure and more D to come.
It would be nice if manufacturers spent more effort on R (repairabillity ).
 

bobt2382

Veteran Member - TDIClub Contributor
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Location
NJ
TDI
2010 CW GOLF 4DR 6MT TDI
I just installed one of these fix brackets on a 2011 Jetta with 126K. It took 8 minutes including before and after MB121 readings.
Before I installed the part, mb121.4 was 0.456V
After is now 0.760V
These Voltages correspond to the motor's position when flaps are open. Jim and I measured a brand new manifold from VW. Guess what? 0.760V.
As the stop on the flap rail wears, the motor arm is allowed to move farther and farther back. The voltage signal gets lower and lower until it reaches 0.304V and a fault is set. As far as I can tell this number changes in discrete decrements of ~0.076V as the flap stops wear down.
Jim's fix bracket butts up to the motor arm and stops it from physically being able to move any farther than a position corresponding to 0.760V. It will never get any lower than that.
Just read mine, 0.608 Volts on the original part. No codes. My replacement part is sitting 2800 miles away on the east coast. Was hoping it would arrive before I drove out to SoCal but the US postal service tool their good old time delivering it 3 days late. Would have loved to install it before the trip back to east coast next month, to see if effects my fuel mileage. Over the last 10-12 months, mine has really taken a hit.
Address 01: Engine (03L 906 019 CL)
14:50:33 Group 121
-3.2 % Lambda
4.7 % Lambda
00000100 Bin. Bits
0.608 V Voltage
Friday,19,December,2014,15:06:07:27850
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.0.0 (x64)
Data version: 20141022
VIN: WVWNM9AJ0AW292558 License Plate: 3LOG
Mileage: 81714 Repair Order:
After install next month, I'll report back on the measured voltage.

4 Feb 2015,

Finally installed by removing the motor, as Jim recommends. I have the 1st version. No issues. Watch his video. Came in handy when reinstalling the spring correctly. Also, has a good recommendation to slightly crimp the end of the spring so it remains on the motor arm.

Read voltage after starting and reads exactly 0.760 volts, as expected! The other values are. Slightly different than the before values.
-2.4 % Lambda
0.8 % Lambda
01000101 Bin. Bits
 
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ilyago

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 1999
Location
Chatham, NJ, USA
TDI
2015 Jetta S DSG
This shows what you should see if you have installed the P2015 fix bracket correctly. If you hold a flashlight over the V157 motor and look in between the V157's top two T30 Torx screws from the front of the car you will see that the P2015 repair bracket is hooked onto the motor casting:

Jim,

This picture does not make sense - it looks like the bracket is installed in a horizontal manner. I followed the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RydbMUdeWlE
and my bracket is vertical with the straight edge facing down.
In this picture, I see the bracket above the motor.
Am I missing something here?
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Look closely at your installation. What you see in the pic is only the very small square "hook" on the part. It's at the opposite end of the part from where the screw for the retaining plate enters. It would be nice if that image were a gif that would loop a zoom out of where we are looking in order to gain perspective but I took that with my phone so I had to be right up in there.
 

redbarron55

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Location
Navarre, FL.
TDI
2012 Touareg TDI Executive
I got my part and installed it Sunday afternoon.
I had a problem fitting it since I had to basically reach further back to hook the thing around the back to line it up.
I had to get into place and then install the bottom T30 torx screw.
The other way around I could not get the bracket to line up properly.
I also bent a piece if coat hanger to pull the arm forward to get everything in place.
This seems to have fixed my problem, but I haven't bothered to check it out with my VCDS yet.

Thanks for the fix.

JDB
 

vwman2

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Location
Orange County NY
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon Tdi, 2010 Golf TDI
Just ordered one for my wife 2010 golf. Been chasings a mpg issue for months and took advice of a users on the forum and unplugged flap motor and. Of is back up where it should be. Checked voltages today and there way down to where it should be, this thread has been really informative!
Thank you
Will report on how it goes
Jamie
 

ilyago

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 1999
Location
Chatham, NJ, USA
TDI
2015 Jetta S DSG
My V157 motor lever seems to stay towards the back of the car. I can use a screwdriver to push it forward, but it goes back as soon as I let go.
Does it matter which position it is in when installing the P2015 fix? I installed the fix with the lever towards the back. I am still getting the P2015 code.
Should I re-install while forcing the lever to the front?
Or do I need to replace the V157 at this point?
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
My V157 motor lever seems to stay towards the back of the car. I can use a screwdriver to push it forward, but it goes back as soon as I let go.
Does it matter which position it is in when installing the P2015 fix? I installed the fix with the lever towards the back. I am still getting the P2015 code.
Should I re-install while forcing the lever to the front?
Or do I need to replace the V157 at this point?
Probably goes without saying but you have to run the motor to make the arm come forward.
 

ilyago

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 1999
Location
Chatham, NJ, USA
TDI
2015 Jetta S DSG
I can't install it with the engine running. Since I can't see where the bracket is going, is it actually catching the lever when I install it even if the lever is in the rear position, or do I have to take the bracket out, pull and hold the lever forward, then re-install?
I had my son turn the ignition on and off a few times, but I have not seen the lever move. Does that mean my V157 motor is busted?
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
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Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Cinching the 4mm screw pulls the bracket into the motor arm. You don't need to do it with the motor running. Once the bracket is installed correctly it should swing forward on its own when the engine is started
 

engineered2win

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2011
Location
Dublin, OH
TDI
MkVI Golf TDI
I can't install it with the engine running. Since I can't see where the bracket is going, is it actually catching the lever when I install it even if the lever is in the rear position, or do I have to take the bracket out, pull and hold the lever forward, then re-install?
I had my son turn the ignition on and off a few times, but I have not seen the lever move. Does that mean my V157 motor is busted?
There is no reason to install the Diesel Geek part with the ignition on or engine running. Watch the videos to see what it's function is. It is limiting travel so the flaps are in the correct resting position. You will need to clear the flapper codes before the valve will perform its auto zero on engine shutoff.
 

ilyago

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 1999
Location
Chatham, NJ, USA
TDI
2015 Jetta S DSG
So it sounds like I installed it correctly.
I hear something making noises after I shut off the engine - perhaps it is the flapper motor trying to move the lever.

Can you please expand on what you mean by "clear the flapper codes" - I have tried clearing the CEL (P2015 code was the only code) twice already, but it just came back at the next engine restart.
 

Dieselgeek

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
Iylago,

Perhaps we need to get you a different good used V157 motor to see if that makes a difference in your situation. Also, getting an output test done on the system might be a good idear. Email me at dieselgeek, please. jim@
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Take some pictures of the install please and post here. Particularly an image of the same area in Jim's photo above, between and behind the two T30s on the v157.

Do you have VCDS? If so please post the full DTC screen. I'd also like to see MB121 key on, engine off. Only getting P2015? No P2016?

I don't think you have the repair installed correctly. There are several other items besides the V157 that make noise under the hood after the engine shuts down.
 

VWYankee

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2000
Location
Durham, NC, USA
TDI
Sportwagen for her and lil' red wagon for me
Installed and fixed!

I had a little trouble with installing mine as I was concerned about the whole "loosening one turn from tight" on the already installed bolt on the part and couldn't get the existing manifold motor bolt screwed in without loosening the other even more. For sake of not wanting to strip the manifold motor bolt I loosened the part bolt even more and then tightening everything pushed it all flush whereas it didn't appear it was going to get flush with loosening as much.

A little delay with following instructions to a T but all good now. Thanks again for a great solution!
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
Yeah, the one-turn thing is a "loose" guideline.

Probably on manifolds that are way faulted out the arm will be so far back that it makes contact with the freshly installed bracket and pushes it back more.

I had sort of suspected that these would be easier to install on non-faulted cars because of this but didn't really think it'd be enough of a factor to mention.

Once the big T30 is slid back in, the 4mm screw does the work of correcting the arm's position as you tighten it.
 

VWYankee

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2000
Location
Durham, NC, USA
TDI
Sportwagen for her and lil' red wagon for me
Yeah, the T30 bolt wouldn't go in straight with the other bolt just one turn. Once loosened more it went fine and as you say tightening the fixed bolt after aligned everything.
 

Dieselgeek

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
ilyago,

Your install looks dead on. You motor must be inoperable. I am working on a fix for a flapper motor that doesn't want to function. I have a customer in New Jersey whose car I fixed with a good used motor to replace his nonfunctional motor. I have his "dead" motor here and the motor works fine so I'm drilling down this week to see what is wrong with it. Edit: As it turned out, the "dead" motor was indeed fine. I should have had the owner install my fix bracket on his old "dead" motor first before deeming it bad.
 
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engineered2win

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2011
Location
Dublin, OH
TDI
MkVI Golf TDI
I received the part from Diesel Geek yesterday and installed it. I had to remove the actuator to install the fix, but it's pretty easy now that I've done it a few times. After screwing around with the spring for quite a while last time and removing the belly pan to retrieve it, I found the trick: bend the ends so that the spring doesn't fall off if it loses tension. Install the spring on the V157, then connect it to the linkage on the intake manifold. You can connect the actuator linkage to the motor with V157 with everything in the resting position and then make sure the spring is still connected and bolt the V157 onto the intake manifold. No more P2015. Block 121 is reading 0.67v instead of 0.30v now.
 

ilyago

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 1999
Location
Chatham, NJ, USA
TDI
2015 Jetta S DSG
Thanks Jim, I am also in NJ. I am now due for inspection (12/2014), but can probably push it another month or so.
By the way, I get the P2015 code and sometimes the P2016 code as well.
I do believe my motor is inoperative as well - it is not seized as I can move the lever, but it does not move on its own.

Looking forward to your discoveries.
 

Dieselgeek

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
Ilyago,

The next step in the process of fixing the P2016 problem is to perform the electrical tests on the 5 pin harness connector for the V157 motor:

* With ignition off, disconnect the V157 Intake Flap Motor electrical harness connector. Be careful as they can be brittle!

* Switch the ignition On, but do not start engine.

* Using a multimeter set to DC volts, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 1 to 3. Specified value: approx. 5 V.

* Next, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 4 to 5. Specified value: near 4.35 V.

* Finally, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 2 to 3. Specified value: approx. 5.01 V.

Please report your findings here.
 
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Dieselgeek

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
Is there anyone here who has replaced their manifold but still have the old manifold and V157 motor? If so, instead of responding to this thread can you instead PM me or send an email to me (jimatdieselgeek...)? I'd prefer that you not respond to the thread that you have a manifold. I need some good used V157 motors for testing and can trade a P2015 repair kit for them. (They just need to test good on a used manifold.)
 
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ilyago

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 14, 1999
Location
Chatham, NJ, USA
TDI
2015 Jetta S DSG
Ilyago,

The next step in the process of fixing the P2016 problem is to perform the electrical tests on the 5 pin harness connector for the V157 motor:

* With ignition off, disconnect the V157 Intake Flap Motor electrical harness connector. Be careful as they can be brittle!

* Switch the ignition On, but do not start engine.

* Using a multimeter set to DC volts, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 1 to 3. Specified value: approx. 5 V.

* Next, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 4 to 5. Specified value: near 4.35 V.

* Finally, measure voltage supply between connector terminals 2 to 3. Specified value: approx. 5.01 V.

Please report your findings here.
This is what I got:

1-3 = 5.02v
4-5 = 0v
2-3 = 5.02v

This is with the ignition in the on position, engine not running.

So pins 4-5 are showing 0v instead of 4.35v:

- what do these pins control?
- is there a fuse that could be causing this?
 

Dieselgeek

TDIClub Enthusiast, Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 3, 2000
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
2016 Golf TDI
This is what I got:

1-3 = 5.02v
4-5 = 0v
2-3 = 5.02v

This is with the ignition in the on position, engine not running.

So pins 4-5 are showing 0v instead of 4.35v:

- what do these pins control?
- is there a fuse that could be causing this?
Pins 4 and 5 go directly to the motor inside the V157 actuator. I have a chart at work that tells which ECU pins these two wires go to. I will post the pinouts on Monday.

I am suspecting that you might have a break in a wire in the oil filter area. I've been reading some German forums and a couple of CR owners there have had broken wires and also Anut suggested it to me a few days ago.
 
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