Tacho 2.5 reading PIN and programming key

Yea there are a lot of how too's around that skip steps.

I'm stuck with a tacho cable that has a pid of b009 but can't find driver for it darn it.

BUT when I had the supplied drivers from my fleabay import cable I was able to "do" my fobs and odo with not problem.

Birdman said:

What will it distroy? the program the cluster?

Click to expand...

Interface(cable).
New version of Vag-Tacho will not even work with interface with out security dongle.
Also there is few cases where cluster was bricked out with pirate version.

OK I have an early program 1.45 with the cable that came with the program. Are you saying that this cable which was made for the Tacko will not work if I up grade the program. I have used this to pull the codes but did not like the fact that is also would clear the cluster of the miles driven, the clock most everything on the cluster. while it did not hurt the cluster which is an half MFA I did not like the way it worked so have not been using it.

I don't know that , for updating interface you must contact seller.

I have a 2001 Jetta with only valet key. Am I clear in my understanding that:

A) I must use Vagtacho software 2.5 ONLY.
B) I must use a 2.5 Vagtacho cable ONLY. (Can't buy a cheapo 3.** cable and then use 2.5 software).
C) I can continue to use my valet key and the new programmed key?

Thanks.

How about instead of supporting jerks who steal other people's work (crap on eBay), you get a lock smith to do the job for you. If you say it cost too much money to do this and you are trying to do this cheaply as possible... then you got the wrong car.

If you insist on going the ebay route, please don't come whining to us when it doesn't work.

Anyone ever get "access denied" when trying to connect?

2001 Jetta using version 2.5. It will read my ecu but won't log in. Trying to get my pin so I can program a new key with my vcds

To be honest - no. Neither my "older" GENUINE VagTacho 5.0 nor the recently upgraded VagTacho K+CAN have done that in a long time. The dashes which it claimed to support have always worked just fine.

OTOH since you are using a pirated copy and a version from the last ice age, you probably shouldn't complain...

I tried it again and clicked old vdo and it worked

Looks Good

how does this system handle the RFID chip in the new fob? and where is the best place to get a new fob??

Looks like the dealer is cheaper than the DYI model.

Loan anyone

Anyone want to loan me their 2.5 software and cable? Columbus, Ohio

If you asking about your Passat 2014 that tool will not work.

2002 Jetta

Actually I just got my son a '02 VW Jetta GLI VR6 and it came with only 1 key which is in bad shape. I bought a couple keys online and am getting them cut today. I need the software to program them,. This is a onetime shot for me so I would like to borrow/rent it

Flipkey programming (pull SKC) 2000-2005 Mk4s. Cincinnati & tristate area.

I got the program in order to recode new keys for my brothers & friends cars.
PM me to arrange the details once your new keys are cut & tested in lock.

Hopefully I'll get the keys recut this week.

Based on my experience thus far, I'd recommend biting the bullet and go to the dealer. My experience has been a nightmare! Hopefully, my brother (computer nerd) can sort thru it for me this weekend. Downloading the drivers, zip file, etc., has been the issue! ............. honestly, it sucks big time! And, just think, I still have the programming process!.........

Counterpoint....


Well just installed the VAG Tacho 2.5 from sidewinderkeys.com . Thankfully, I am running an older laptop with Window XP 32 Bit so the drivers loaded with no issues and the cable was sensed by the laptop.

I plugged it into the car and selected VDO NEW and it read the cluster. Looks like it is model 1J0920906L. I then pulled the SKC and verified it in the HEX coding as correct. I was able to connect to the EEProm and save it as a bin file.

Looks like it worked no problem on my 2003 Wagon.

Wankel7 said:

Counterpoint....


Well just installed the VAG Tacho 2.5 from sidewinderkeys.com . Thankfully, I am running an older laptop with Window XP 32 Bit so the drivers loaded with no issues and the cable was sensed by the laptop.

I plugged it into the car and selected VDO NEW and it read the cluster. Looks like it is model 1J0920906L. I then pulled the SKC and verified it in the HEX coding as correct. I was able to connect to the EEProm and save it as a bin file.

Looks like it worked no problem on my 2003 Wagon.

Click to expand...

I'm glad you got it to work.

As it turned out (at least for me), down-loading the stuff per sidewinder instructions was not necessary. Everything needed is on the little disc that come with the cable. It worked fine on my "older" LapTop with XP. I wasted a lot of time trying to down load drivers, un-zipper files, etc.! I could not complete the process on a Laptop with Windows 7 or this Laptop with XP.

However, programming the FOB has not worked. The vehicle systems are fine... locking flashes the park lights, locked the red light by the lock flashes, reach in the open window and open the locked door, alarm system is set off, etc. The red light on the FOB lights up when pressing the various functions... must be a mis-match or bad FOB... we will see!

I will say that support has been good!

Andybees,

Are you trying to program three fob to do alarm and remote functions or just the key to the carto start?

If just the fob then is the working key in the ignition and the new key and fob in the door.

This is the way I do it for customers. No need getting out my vagcom or tacho.

Also, Mark is a very reputable guy. Sidewinder has been doing this for a while and I've purchased from him a couple of times.
I recommend anyone needing keys or items he sells to goto him first before some no-name eBay place.

Tacho does work in W7 but it's a pain dealing with the drivers. I might try doing a test in Windows compatibility mode for XP.

I didn't want to start a new thread and this one seems on subject for my question.

Okay, I have a 2000 New Beetle tdi. It came (to me) with only one key fob. That key and remote work perfectly although it is slides apart and is taped together. I purchased a new key fob and key from a vendor on this site at his location. He cut the key, and pulled my SKC with VagTacho. Upon trying to match the key to the vehicle, he had trouble doing so. It would not match and the immobilizer kept "activating" and causing the car to shut off. We removed the ECU and he performed an Immobilizer Delete. ECU was reinstalled and the original key works. The new key works; however, when it is being used, the Immobilizer light in the instrument cluster flashes. There are no other problems. He provided me the SKC. Here is where my question lies. The SKC he gave me is 5 DIGITS. The first digit is a "0". I'm wondering if I can try to pair that key using 4 DIGITS (leaving off the "0") and get this flashing Immobilizer light to go off. What I'm afraid of is making both keys inoperable and then I'm screwed. If I can get this to work, I would buy another cut key and fob and match it to the vehicle to replace the original key that is taped together. Again, both key's work and both remotes work. I just don't like the immobilizer light flashing at me. If I could get that light off, by programming or other means, I would be okay with that. I don't care about the immobilizer protecting me from theft. I just want to have unbroken keys and fobs that work and no flashing light!

I am unsure of what the proper results of an immo delete look like.

However, I thought once you are ready to program the new key you actually have to program all keys that you have for the car.

And when you do the reprogramming the consensus here is that you use a VCDS to reprogram the keys. Tacho to pull the SKC. The SKC is four digits but you need to add the zero to the front when programming.

Ok. That answers why I have a 5 digit SKC. That's good news. I ordered a vag com usb hex can and it should be here next week.

You may want to check back with the guy that did your delete, because I think he's going to tell you a flashing LED is the norm when doing an immob delete in the ECU.

Why? The flashing LED is the cluster complaining, not the ECU. Your tuner has tricked the ECU into ignoring the cluster... which is why the car starts normally... but the cluster will continue to complain (and flash) about a mis-matched key.

The work around? Pull the cluster and tape over the LED. Not kidding.

Alternatively... you could send your cluster to someone who does cluster programming.

At least this is my understanding of how it all works...

The flashing dies not happen on the original keyfob. Wouldn't it happen all the time since the delete would still be there regardless of which key is used?

Cha2ga said:

The flashing dies not happen on the original keyfob. Wouldn't it happen all the time since the delete would still be there regardless of which key is used?

Click to expand...

Not if the cluster still recognizes the original key and is happy.

The "delete" simply programs the ECU to ignore whatever the cluster is saying and let the car start regardless. The cluster still signals if it's happy with the key (or not) via the flashing IMMOB LED.


Normal flow:


coded key -----> cluster -------------------> ECU ----> if the cluster gives permission start your engines



With an IMMOB delete:

any key -----> cluster ---------X X----> ECU ----> ignore the cluster and start your engines



Either way the cluster still gets to yell if it doesn't like the key.

That's a great explanation. I guess I will tape over the LED. But correct me if I'm wrong, now I can just order any properly cut new key. Program the remote portion of the fob, while ignoring vagcom programming portion of the key.

Yup, as long as the key is cut properly and turns in the ignition the engine will start, and you can reprogram the remote side of the key with VCDS or, if you already have a working remote, the "put one key in the door and the other in the ignition" no-VCDS-required method.

I am going through the same thing with my TDI swap. The black tape over the led really does do the trick for all the extra cluster lights