Misfire running on 3 cylinders

Chrismak · May 7, 2013

No regrets in Life. Make your decision and move on.

Now anyone know what the torque spec is on those stretch bolts for the rod.
I found 22 lbs plus 1/4 turn but that was the 1.9

TDIJetta99 · May 7, 2013

30 Nm (22 ft-lbs) plus 1/4 turn for all of them that take that conrod bolt..

turbocharged798 · May 7, 2013

The BHW/BEW/BRM all use the same rod bolts....

Chrismak · May 7, 2013

Thanks guys for the replies. Thunder I didn't mean to be so short. Obviously you are right as far as changing out the rings and bearings and I know you are only trying to help and I appreciate it.

But this is not a show car or a complete rebuild. At best its a bandage and ahot of cortisol and back on the ice.
For a perfectionist like yourself its probably painful to watch this skulduggery

I got it honed and the piston fitted. I also noticed the telltale sign of coolant leakage on the bottom of oil cooler. I'm not sure if its from the connection on top where the frost heater is connected or the cooler itself.
These have been known to leak so I may change it.

[/IMG]

Chrismak · May 7, 2013

Thanks guys for the replies. Thunder I didn't mean to be so short. Obviously you are right as far as changing out the rings and bearings and I know you are only trying to help and I appreciate it.
But this is not a show car or a complete rebuild. At best its a bandage and a shot of cortisol and back on the ice.
For a perfectionist like yourself its probably painful to watch this skulduggery

I got it honed and the piston fitted. I also noticed the telltale sign of coolant leakage on the bottom of oil cooler. I'm not sure if its from the connection on top where the frost heater is connected or the cooler itself.
These have been known to leak so I may change it.

[/IMG]
This a shot of the coolant stain on bottom of oil cooler.

[/IMG]

thundershorts · May 8, 2013

I guess I was only suggesting the additional few bucks spent to increase the chances of a successful repair. Its an awful lot of time and work you've done so far and it would be a shame to have to do it again. After all, you.ve saved a bit by doing it yourself and the used piston you found looked very good. The problem is the used rings no longer have the tension or surface finish to break in to the cyl and seat properly.

newlitemotorist · May 8, 2013

^^^
Not only that but blow-by will be worse due to the increased ring gaps assuming you properly honed the cylinder and the rings are able to seat. I know in the gasser world, I have seen rings gaps double after break-in. Not a good thing when using a used set of rings with more than likely higher mileage. Oh well no regrets, I hope it works out for you...

TDIJetta99 · May 8, 2013

does the car have a hitch? We'll get those rings to seat if it does.. 3500rpm with a car on a tow dolly for a couple of hours will do it..

thundershorts · May 8, 2013

well it doesn't appear to have the 30 degree crosshatch, at least not from pics.

TDIJetta99 · May 8, 2013

Ya I didn't see that.. looks like the lines just go around.. not enough up and down movement in relation to the rotation.. Hopefully it's just the picture..

Edit.. mine look like this..

Chrismak · May 8, 2013

Ok you guys are getting to me here.

I didn't torque this down yet and its wet out next few days so I might get the rings.
Jason did I read something from you somewhere that the rings from a gasser fits this bore.?
If not whats the best source and fast delivery?

vwztips · May 8, 2013

Try Bora, ID or your dealer. Dealer may be best and quickest bet

TDIJetta99 · May 8, 2013

Vr6 oil rings will work, but the compression rings are different. I have 2 pistons of oil rings left from the last one I needed oil rings for

Last I checked the local dealer here it was $200 per piston for the rings

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

thundershorts · May 8, 2013

If you are going to remove piston and hone correctly, replace rings, and for goodness sake new bearing shells. they aren't expensive, I would measure skirt clearance both top and bottom of bore, I can't tell if that dark grove near top of cyl is erosion from water or is remaining ridge showing cyl wear. since it wasn't measured, at least measure skirt clearance both top and bottom of bore to see if its close to allowable spec.you can use feeler gauges. I didn't look to see what spec was, but I'd guess something less than .005in

thundershorts · May 8, 2013

check skirt clearance to see if its close to allowable spec, both top and bottom. the dart area at top of bore may be erosion from water, or remnant of wear ridge.

Chrismak · May 8, 2013

Thanks Jason, I just ordered the upper and lower bearings and the ring set.
$184.24 delivered.
Bud @
http://keffervwparts.com/parts/2005/VOLKSWAGEN/PASSAT/?siteid=216177&vehicleid=1431762&section=ENGINE&group=&subgroup=&component=&searchText=&startRow=151&maxRow=10

Shout out to 1854Sailor for the link in earlier post.

TDIJetta99 · May 8, 2013

thundershorts said:
If you are going to remove piston and hone correctly, replace rings, and for goodness sake new bearing shells. they aren't expensive, I would measure skirt clearance both top and bottom of bore, I can't tell if that dark grove near top of cyl is erosion from water or is remaining ridge showing cyl wear. since it wasn't measured, at least measure skirt clearance both top and bottom of bore to see if its close to allowable spec.you can use feeler gauges. I didn't look to see what spec was, but I'd guess something less than .005in

at $54 for 2 rod bearing shells from VW, if the old ones don't show any significant wear, I'd re-use them.. These aren't cheap ALH bearings LOL..

newlitemotorist · May 8, 2013

Yeah the bearings are one of those things. You want to change them for good measure since you are in there but technically they should never come into contact with anything but a nice protective film of oil. Sometimes rod bearings look brand new leaving no real reason to replace them and yet sometimes there is obvious wear. Use your best judgment and maybe some plasti-gauge to make sure clearances are correct.

In my book, I usually just run new.

thundershorts · May 9, 2013

You can poke the piston in the bore when the rings are off upside down to ck skirt clearance from top rather than do it from under car.

TDIJetta99 · May 9, 2013

Remember guys, he's not looking for this thing to be new again.. If that were the case, the engine would be out and it would have gotten 4 new pistons .5mm oversize, head refreshed, etc... The goal is for it to run again.. If the piston is a little loose in the bore it'll run just fine, and with new rings it won't go through any substantial amount of oil as long as they seat in..

vwztips · May 9, 2013

Just a veer from the topic but last time I checked, they do not offer 0.5mm oversize pistons for the BHW. That was about 3 years ago though.

TDIJetta99 · May 9, 2013

They're available now.. Nural makes them..

turbocharged798 · May 9, 2013

Honestly worst that could happen would be it will burn a bit of oil.

Chrismak · May 9, 2013

Well I'm getting a ball hone to do this properly. I had the tripod type and it cleaned but couldn't achieve that nice cross hatch like in Jason's picture.

Now I'm almost afraid to post this picture as I can hear the advice but here goes.

I imagine the tip of glow plug got smashed and managed to make its way out through the valve. It seems to be seating OK but whats the worst case scenario?

thundershorts · May 9, 2013

with valves closed on #4, check by pouring a little kerosene or gas into the intake and exhaust port and see how much valves are leaking. if you add some food coloring it will leave a stain for you to see.

newlitemotorist · May 11, 2013

Well you know you had headgasket issues in the past which is something you should address now since you have the head off. Now that you are questioning one of the valve seats your need is further justified.

You really should have your head checked by a competent mechanic BEFORE you put it all back together.

thundershorts · May 11, 2013

I would agree, it may have a bit of warp as well as the obvious erosion which could ruin your whole day. Cam chamfers look ok?

Chrismak · May 11, 2013

newlitemotorist said:
Well you know you had headgasket issues in the past which is something you should address now since you have the head off. Now that you are questioning one of the valve seats your need is further justified.
You really should have your head checked by a competent mechanic BEFORE you put it all back together.

You're correct in saying I need my head checked, but by someone in a white coat I'm afraid.

For what its worth the head looks straight with straight edge and feeler
Gauge method.

This was much easier to work on back in the day, right Thunder?

This was for sale I think Staten Island, 10k plus. Nice looking Morris.

thundershorts · May 11, 2013

my first car was a rhd Morris convertible, 27hp, thermosyphon cooling. It met an untimely end when my friend t-boned me with a Buick, and I ended upside down in a ditch. A 200 dollar car at the time.

peiphil · May 11, 2013

Had a Morris miniminor once sliding windows and engine trans and diff all one unit crossways.
Had to keep a rubber glove with holes poked out of the finger ends to pull over the distributer cap
Had to keep smacking the fuel pump under the back end to get it to work.
That of course always happened when I was all dressed up to go somewhere!

Misfire running on 3 cylinders

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