South Bend stage 2 endurance- change myself or go to shop

I am trying to decide on the direction I will be taking my current pet project. I am trying to decide whether I should have a shop install the clutch (to eliminate any chance of mistake and ensure I get my SBC warranty) or whether I would be alright doing this myself. AI have the same tools a shop would, the stretch bolts, new clutch fork etc. and with experience on vehicles like my ram 2500 (changed the clutch/ flywheel/ pressure plate on the nv4500) and on a f250 equipped with a zf5 both of which run great).

So if anyone with some installation experience, maybe those who had a shop install, I would like to hear some input. There are going to be pros and cons no matter which path I take, but I want to make the BEST decision.

If you can do it yourself - go for it! There are some good writeups around here. I've done about 6 clutches on MKIV TDIs following the Bentley manual with some minor deviations (using the widow maker jack to push the engine forward instead of the special VW tool, etc.) I've supported the engine with a jack and I've done it with a homemade support bar (bought an adjustable one now). The trans is light enough to carry - I usually use a come-along or ratchet strap to lift it roughly in position before wiggling it in place.

Glad to hear. Was wondering how/ what I would substitute for that engine lift bar. I am going to invest in a Bentley manual very soon.

By the way very sweet setup.

I did my first one in 2012 and last year the clutch disc exploded. I went to my local VW speed shop where I bought it from and they were able to get a full replacement with SB. I had to pay for shipping but thought that was great!. The new one has been in the Beetle for a year and has seen mostly towing miles. Great clutch and company!

I installed both of these clutches. It is a bit of a pain to get the engine and tranny back together so I think the carrier bar would be the way to go. I haven't used one in the 7 or 8 clutches I have done. I expect that a carrier bar would have made life a bit easier.

Change your rear main while you're in there and the input shaft seal

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Ahh the seals. An important message for myself and anyone planning to swap a clutch. I didn't list that stuff bc I didn't want anyone thinking I was going too off topic. But since it has been mentioned I am happy this has been brought up.

When I bought my NV4500 equipped ram 2500, I grew tired of it's gallon a week habit of dumping rotella. After that incident the crank and IS seals, should I have to do something to an engine where I can change it, I will.

For what it's worth, you'd be upset if you skipped the seals "because there wasn't a leak" only to discover it leaks after everything was reassembled. I work around too much machinery that operates 24/7 ( I am a overhaul maintenance Craftsman in a big factory, if that's what you want to call it lol) and do not like when I make mistakes.

I don't touch a front/rear main seal unless they are leaking. seen too many people report that they did it preventatively only to get a leak afterwards...
Harbor freight has a really nice adjustable engine support, but for years I used pieces of scrap screwed together and it worked well enough, but was custom built for a MKIV. I had a brm timing belt coming in and a Mkv gti that needed the trans pulled so I bought the harbor freight one.
A floor jack under the oil pan works well too and gives adjustability.

h1h0silver said:

Ahh the seals. An important message for myself and anyone planning to swap a clutch. I didn't list that stuff bc I didn't want anyone thinking I was going too off topic. But since it has been mentioned I am happy this has been brought up.

When I bought my NV4500 equipped ram 2500, I grew tired of it's gallon a week habit of dumping rotella. After that incident the crank and IS seals, should I have to do something to an engine where I can change it, I will.

For what it's worth, you'd be upset if you skipped the seals "because there wasn't a leak" only to discover it leaks after everything was reassembled. I work around too much machinery that operates 24/7 ( I am a overhaul maintenance Craftsman in a big factory, if that's what you want to call it lol) and do not like when I make mistakes.

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I can't understand why anyone wouldn't, I've not replaced them and had to do the work twice because I didn't, timing belts and clutches aren't very fond of motor oil...to each his own...

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I like the design of the ALH rear main seal... In my early days of learning I didn't install that rear main correctly on my pop's powerstroke that first time, but i lickily was smart enough to only install the flywheel and do a test run prior to installing the zf5 ( with transfer case attached, that thing is huge). Yea, I had to buy a new rear main seal and new flywheel bolts but it was valuable knowledge, use tools (in this case, a nylon installation ring) when they are available hahaha.

Is there a certain brand seal on the ALH anyone would recommend?

h1h0silver said:

I like the design of the ALH rear main seal... In my early days of learning I didn't install that rear main correctly on my pop's powerstroke that first time, but i lickily was smart enough to only install the flywheel and do a test run prior to installing the zf5 ( with transfer case attached, that thing is huge). Yea, I had to buy a new rear main seal and new flywheel bolts but it was valuable knowledge, use tools (in this case, a nylon installation ring) when they are available hahaha.

Is there a certain brand seal on the ALH anyone would recommend?

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I've had good luck with Victor reins on my Ridgeline and the ALH Jetta

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diy it.. it's pretty straight forward. only real pain might be rejoining the motor and tranny... you gotta get the angle right.

leafs said:

diy it.. it's pretty straight forward. only real pain might be rejoining the motor and tranny... you gotta get the angle right.

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I agree! I found it way easier way to install it without a trans jack because of its goofy shape. I put it on my chest, slid under there, and Herculesd it in place. Took like 10 seconds. Just dont drop it on your face! I am not responsible for any injuries! Lol

sltlytwkd said:

I agree! I found it way easier way to install it without a trans jack because of its goofy shape. I put it on my chest, slid under there, and Herculesd it in place. Took like 10 seconds. Just dont drop it on your face! I am not responsible for any injuries! Lol

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I use one of the bracket holes to attach a lift "eye" and lift it straight up to the engine. They tend to slip right in without a problem. Oddly - I have more problems getting them removed than installed.

gforce1108 said:

I use one of the bracket holes to attach a lift "eye" and lift it straight up to the engine. They tend to slip right in without a problem. Oddly - I have more problems getting them removed than installed.

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That's a great idea too, my cherry picker was already holding up the engine though..lol

sltlytwkd said:

That's a great idea too, my cherry picker was already holding up the engine though..lol

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Gotcha - I attach a come-along or ratchet strap to the engine support bar to lift it up since it's already in place.

Today I devised my hoist mechanisms for the engine and trans, using two chain hoists, one draped from a locking clamp on a fork of a tractor front end loader. I won't be using the hydraulics of the tractor at all haha ( I can just imagine the Carnage of wrecked parts that would ensure). The chain hoists will be doing the lifting/ holding of the engine, and holding of the trans while it is positioned. As mentioned I am not gonna drop that sucker on my face... Ouch. I am sure I will have to improvise as I go but it wouldn't be the first time. To all of you, thanks for the help. I will update as I complete.

sltlytwkd said:

I agree! I found it way easier way to install it without a trans jack because of its goofy shape. I put it on my chest, slid under there, and Herculesd it in place. Took like 10 seconds. Just dont drop it on your face! I am not responsible for any injuries! Lol

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you must be pretty strong.. or real world strength or something. I can bench damn near 300lbs and I tried to do what you did and while I could get it up I couldn't get it right without getting fatigued so I aborted that idea. ended up using a cherry picker with rope going through the 2 holes on the top of the tranny.

gforce1108 said:

They tend to slip right in without a problem. Oddly - I have more problems getting them removed than installed.

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Funny I had the same thing.
Harder to get out, easy to get in.
It went in so easy I had to stop when I had 3 bolts in to look in the hole for the slave cylinder to see if it looked funny.
Never installed a dual mass clutch before.

I agree that thing is fairly heavy and if the splines don't line up you quickly are out of gas. First one was very hard to lift in place, second was pretty easy.

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Well besides greasing and bolting CV axles back to the transmission, I am done! Couple of misadvendures but hey we all have them. Wood block was knocked out of floor jack holding up engine by the transmission jack when putting everything back together and long story short is I have a new oil pan. No freaking way I was going to jb weld, no matter how "trusted" or "convenient" and I do not mean to offend those who did have to repair like that in a pinch.

Just a question though, is is normal for an 02j when verified in neutral and disconnected from shift cables to spin the differential outputs when not held by anything during an engine rev up, but not spin at all when held by hand? Other than this I have no further issues and look forward to properly breaking in my new clutch. That flywheel I took out was SHOT.