2005 Passat TDI 01V 5HP19 Transmission shifting problem

I had a transmission pump bushing/seal problem and replaced the front pump. While I had the engine/transmission out, I also did the BSM delete work.
Now, I have everything back together, it appears that I don't have reverse. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the parking pawl engages in Reverse and Neutral but not in Park.

It appears to be driving and shifting fine in Drive, though so far I drove around the neighborhood. The gear selector appears to match what is displayed in dash screen and also reverse lights come on as they should when in reverse.

I am hoping that I misaligned something in the valve body and this does not require me to remove the transmission again.
When I did the front oil pump work, I only removed what I needed to remove and did not attempt to overhaul the transmission. I also did not mess with the valve body except to remove it to get take the front oil pump off.

Does the car slowly crawl in reverse if you don't don't touch the throttle?

No it does not. I did see the wheel move just a little when the wheels were off the ground, when I put it in reverse. But, when we were trying to push back in the garage, it was clear that the parking pawl pin was locked in.

Just spoke with the folks at Eriksson Industries. They were quite helpful and nice over the phone. Their tech seems to think that it is the C clutch that was not installed right and it is binding. He said it is a little tricky sometimes to line it up properly and it may have happened here. Naturally, the only way to fix it is to take out the transmission and pump body again...

I just did one and usually if you don't get it right the pump won't drop all the way down. Not sure what they mean by that. I know Erricson and Nat pretty well and I"m sure he wouldn't put you in the wrong direction but it seems strange. Did you do a converter with the pump bushing cuz it's what usually what takes out the pump bushing.

You are right. It did not look like the pump would go in, as it was a tight fit and everything had to line up just right.

I did replace the torque converter with a reman one from Transtar. So far I have not seen any faults.

This is quite puzzling to me. I will need to revisit some of the assumptions and focus on not doing any more damage for now.

It also turns out that the engine is making some kind of tinny rattling sound and I need to track down the source and see if it is at all related to the transmission issue. This is really puzzling as I really made sure that the TQ was fully seated and the front pump went in all the way.

I would appreciate any help/thoughts on this.

the tinny rattle sound could be that plate between the trans and engine. It's very easy to bend and it'll hit the converter bolts on the flywheel. As far as no reverse, it sound like the D drum.

Hmm, you have me thinking, the whole parking pawl thing. You should make sure that when you installed the valve body that you locked in the shift lever correctly. I'm wondering if that might be your problem. Your not in reverse etc.

The tinny sound does not appear come from the engine, so you may be right. The engine is running well, and I am not getting any codes or low oil pressure light.

Looking back, I had not made a note of how the gear selector rod fit into/connect with the valve body, so I put it in in the manner I thought made sense. So, I will need to take a look at it again.

As mentioned above, we could not push the car in reverse or neutral as the car locked up and pushed back, as if it was in park.

BTW, I just went back and connected to the vagcom again and it (TCM) showed that the car is in 4th gear though it was selected to be in park.

Just looked at the picture of the valve body again and it looks like I did it correctly. The only thing that I can think of is if somehow the gear selector was moved before I could snap the ball joint thing back on after the engine/transmission was mounted back. I do recall my buddy was having a hard time and I had to do use a wrench as a lever to put it on.

nothing to do with external, if you did the pump you removed the valve body. The shifter assembly in the trans where it attaches to the valve body could very easily be installed wrong. I almost did it with the trans on the bench. You need to remove the pan to check it. Seeing how it thinks it's in 4th gear I'm suspecting that's what you did

Yes, the external connections would not line up if the selector had moved. So, it must be something in the valve body. I will open up the pan and see what is going on. I did remove the valve body to take the front pump off. Thanks!

I'm thinking the valve body shifter assembly being off might have done the trick

A quick update on this...

The parking pawl issue somehow fixed itself. So, it now engages in Park and does not engage in other gears such as N or R.

The reverse gear still does not work. And, when I tried to upshift manually using Tiptronics lever, I heard a loud bang and it apparently shifted into the 4th gear.

VCDS shows no fault code still. I dropped down the transmission pan and the valve body rod is engaged properly to the shift selector mechanism. All the VB wires appeared to connected properly.

I plan on taking the VB out and taking a closer look.

I think your transmission is on its last leg.

imo000 said:

I think your transmission is on its last leg.

Click to expand...

You may be right. Perhaps, metal shavings and sludge finished the job. I will try a few things like cleaning the VB, but if it doesn't work, it will be a decision time. Perhaps it is time for the manual conversion.

suncoug said:

A quick update on this...

The parking pawl issue somehow fixed itself. So, it now engages in Park and does not engage in other gears such as N or R.

The reverse gear still does not work. And, when I tried to upshift manually using Tiptronics lever, I heard a loud bang and it apparently shifted into the 4th gear.

VCDS shows no fault code still. I dropped down the transmission pan and the valve body rod is engaged properly to the shift selector mechanism. All the VB wires appeared to connected properly.

I plan on taking the VB out and taking a closer look.

Click to expand...

The only other thing I can think of based on the repair you made was the 5 rubber like tubes that transfer fluid to the pump. I replaced mine, perhaps they could be leaking internally? They are a PITA to get out without ruining them to remove the pump/stater.

Brian's96TDIPASSAT said:

The only other thing I can think of based on the repair you made was the 5 rubber like tubes that transfer fluid to the pump. I replaced mine, perhaps they could be leaking internally? They are a PITA to get out without ruining them to remove the pump/stater.

Click to expand...

You might be right. They were PITA to remove but I didn't replace them. Where did you find the parts? I got the valve body out and plan on giving a good inspection. I might even try replacing it. I do remember that there was noticeable delay when putting in reverse prior to the pump body replacement. And, when in reverse with the wheels lifted, you can see that they turn just a little. So, somehow the pressure is not quite there due to a faulty condition.

Internally, I didn't go in deeper than I needed to but things looked fine.

Picked them up at Erricson, since I live only about 35 minutes from his building

Thanks again for your help. I will get them from Eriksson Industries.

As much as I would like to get the car going again, I am quite curious about what the root cause might be. I have spent some time looking things up online and talking to various transmission specialists.

Interestingly, good majority of the folks that I spoke to did not think replacing valve body would do anything to help, even though I told them that there is little sign that the D drum is physically broken.

I can see more clearly now why the experts on this forum recommend either getting a new/re-manufactured AT from VW/ZF or converting it to MT.

Look ahead, after trying to swap out the VB, I will most likely convert it MT, if it does not make a difference. I already scoped out the local junk yards, and it looks like I will have little trouble getting what I need except for the FHN or DUK manual transmission with proper gears.

OK, it’s been a while, but I was able to get the transmission operational. I drove 100 miles yesterday and it looks like it will live for now, hopefully long enough for me to get all the parts for manual conversion. Reverse is working well and it shifts fine through all the forward gears and torque converter locks fine with no slip that I can tell.

To recap, I replaced the transmission front oil pump assembly and torque converter after the oil pump bushing spun off and pushed out the seal on one corner enough to leak the fluid. I took the engine out at the same time and performed BSM delete.

After I put everything back, I had the following issues:

1. Parking pawl seemed to engage in neutral and reverse but not in park.
2. Reverse did not engage
3. Transmission went into limp mode after a loud bang going around the block

It was a confusing array of issues, so I was a bit stumped and overwhelmed. I decided to take a couple of weeks off to keep my mind fresh and try it again later. I also spoke with some transmission specialist companies and most of them seemed to think that my transmission was a goner and it would be foolish for me to spend any more time or money into it.

Still, I knew exactly what was done to the car and I didn't feel like I made any obvious mistakes putting it back together at least mechanically. Plus, the parts won't line up correctly if I didn't install the front oil pump assembly right and I was careful to install the torque converter properly.

I considered the following possible issues based on my limited understanding of the 5HP19 (01V) and automatic transmission in general:

1. Mistake made in assembly or the oil pump work.
2. Defective parts particularly torque converter.
3. Excessive internal parts wear due to running low on fluid.
4. Contaminated fluid/debris inside from pump bushing wear.

First, the parking pawl issue resolved itself. It appears that some parts were bound but it snapped in. Against advice of many folks including Eriksson Industries, I ordered and installed a rebuilt valve body from Eriksson. I also replaced all 5 rubber tubes in the transmission with new ones, though they looked fine.

Initially, it seemed to make no difference. However, after I raised up the rear of the car a little and put in another quart of fluid, reverse started working, though it was very weak and the wheels were barely turning. I am not sure whether it was the new valve body that helped or not.
I did notice that when I drained the fluid to install the new valve body, there was a quite a bit of sludge like material on the transmission pan. The fluid did not look good at all. So, I decided to add Sea Foam Trans Tune in and run the car a while. So, with the wheels up and ran the car in gear for several hours.

The reverse gear response seemed to improve considerably and it kept getting stronger. However, the transmission slammed hard when it tried to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear and went in to 4th gear, which means it went into the limp mode.

VagCom showed G182 Input Speed Sensor error. Also, it showed no input (signal) from the sensor. Also, the speedometer was not working intermittently. So, replaced the vehicle speed sensor and input speed sensor. The wires on the input speed sensor was pinched and obviously damaged.

After this, the transmission seemed to work fine in all gears. Other than the G182 sensor issue, I realize the importance of running clean and fresh fluid. I probably should have at min. cleaned the internal parts of the transmission. I used Valvoline MaxLife and it was relatively cheap but I would probably use Pentocin in the future. I ended up going through (3) new transmission filters.

More than anything, I am a very curious person, so I am glad I learned more about how automatic transmission works in general and what the issue was here. Many thanks to all those that helped.