2.0L '04 Passat Stummbled, Died, Starts for 3 Seceonds (rough) dies.

cstopherj

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Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
I've been a member for about 3 months now and a observer for over a year, and, thanks to the information on the site, I decided finally, when I found the right 'deal' to buy an '04 2.0L Passat PD(?).

Love the Car, it had about 93k on it when I purchase, I made the purchase of this particular vehicle based on the fact that the previous owner was on a first name basis w/ the dealership from which she traded the vehicle for a newer (gasser). They had maintenance records every 3-5k for one thing or another (She sounded pretty AR about her car; good for me)

The Last night, I ventured out w/ my 3yr old daughter to my cousins house, and getting onto the main road, I hit is, and, it didn't go right away like is should. I was able to brake, and stop for the next opportunity, but decided to make a loop in the neighborhood, it seemed ok. I drove out about 30 miles, and, last night on the way home, getting OFF the highway about 8 miles from home, it stumbled coming down the off ramp.

I turned onto local roads, and really lost power (much like a bad fuel/fuel filter/biodiesel issue I had w/ my '02 GMC a couple of years ago) I have NOT RUN BIODIESEL since, and never in this car, but maybe in the future.

I pulled over; it really began to shudder/shake then died. I was apprehensive due to the now sick and sleeping 3yr old girl in the back, and my wife was unavailable to pick me up last night. But, someone was looking out for me. I started it up, it ran, hard, but, I drove it the rest of the way home.

Pulling into the neighborhood, I just made the turn about 1/2 mile from my house and it would not go, and finally gave me a MIL (Engine Light) and then said "Emissions Workshop"

I decided to leave it, and, (cold for TX), carry my daughter to bed, leaving the car over night.

I got it in the garage this afternoon, and, though I don't have VagCom (yet, it's coming for sure!) I do have a can tool for my computer that will read OBD-II and a connecting cable (which won't work w/ VagCom software, I’ve tried w/ the download).

I pulled out 2 codes

p0404 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased / Stuck RICH Bank 1 Sensor 1

And

p2196 - Powertrain - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Open Position Performance


_________________________________

Here's what I've done up to now.

I bought and replaced the Fuel Filter w/ a $26 unit from AutoZone (I know, questionable quality, but, I wanted to start there first) It really felt like a low fuel availability problem to me.

I drained the filter into a clear bottle, in case there was a lot of water in it, resulting in contaminated fuel. (Last tank was filled up at an unproven station - I'm pretty particular and had been using exclusively Chevron, but, was in a pinch and used Shell this time)

I tried to start again, after powercycling the ignition switch several times to 'fill' the fuel filter.

Same results, immediate start; smooth for 1-2 seconds, then shutters and dies.

I did remove the 'dual' hose fitting on the fuel filter again to see if there was fuel inside, it was not as full as the old one, and upon removing, there was enough pressure to 'pop' it out like a champagne bottle when I removed it. That didn't happen the first time so, I suspect there's AIR inside that's compressing.

This leads me to the lift pump, which, though most sounds in this car are still new to me (3 months) has begun to sound like my old Dodge Ram heater core when it became obstructed and you could hear fluid rushing in like water running.

If I let it sit for 10 minutes and turn the key, I hear that slush and rush of fuel, if I let it sit for 10 seconds, I don't hear that after the first cycle.

OK, so, I'm going outside right after this to fill the filter manually if necessary w/ fuel. Sometimes writing it out helps, but, I've got to believe the 'lift' pump can fill a fuel filter. We'll See, I'll repost if this changes the result.

By the way . . . when trying to start/run the car SMELLS very RICH and smoky out the tail pipe. I've never smelled 'rich' diesel before, but, I believe this is the smell. It almost smells like something's burning up, but, I'm not getting smoke anywhere but out the tail pipe.

I've noticed that there is a 'beeeeeeep' or whine that comes from under the hood after the key is turned off for about 3-5 seconds. It's coming from an assembly connected to the intake manifold, with a black cover. The cover, when removed, exposes 2 electrodes, and inside there is apparently an electric motor which actuates a plunger. I think this is the 'anti shudder' valve? Previously actuated by vacuum on older models. I also believe this particular vehicle had a recall for that as it caused 'surge' and 'stumble', right?

I need to dig out those dealer records and see if the recall was done; likewise, I'll call the dealer tomorrow and give them the VIN and see if it's shows as having been completed.

____________________________________

I'm a little lost as what to do next, if filling the fuel filter w/ diesel doesn't do it, since I'm VAGCOM-less for now.

Dumb Questions -

1. What would you (all) Recommend
2. Is there really an O2 Sensor on the vehicle, where is it and can I trouble shoot based on voltage?
3. I need help w/ EGR, I don't know if that's an issue here, but, I'm wondering if it's possible that this valve is stuck, causing basically a restriction in the exhaust, trying to recirculate too much resulting in too much backpressure and killing engine. Where is the valve on this engine, and what's the 'troubleshooting' procedure?
4. Anyone know if I can use a ProScan Universal OBD-II Scan Tool w/USB Interface cable w/ VAGCOM Software (myscantool.com) I use this w/ other vehicles, and uses a software as well, but basically connects the OBD-II port to a USB port w/ a little box in the middle that shows RX TX for both ends of the cable.
Thanks for all the help you have all been just through research; I appreciate anyone’s advice, even if it's a guess out of the box.

Cj
_____________________________________________

2004 VW Passat 2.0L TDI, Grey, Wood Trim, Grey Leather Interior, 98k Miles. I drive about 75-100 Miles per day. Dallas, Texas, weather currently in the Low’s in the 30’s, Highs in the upper 60’s when the problems occurred.
 
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whitedog

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Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
There is a link in my signature by DanG for checking the fuel pump. I'm not sure that the No start thread will be much help since I don't go into the Passats at all, but some things are the same, so you might try there.

Seat of the pants guess is thatyou have two problems. One is that your lift pump has been dying and that opening up the filter exposed this problem. See Dan's post about testing the fuel system.

Second is the EGR valve is sticking. The EGR valve is somewhere in the intake manifold. I'm not familiar with these so I won't try to guess further.
 

MOGolf

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That beeep is the EGR valve going through a calibration sequence after the ignition is turned off. Normal.

However, this is the device that is giving your engine a bit of problem. Disconnect the electrical connector to it. Use a 5mm hex key, or socket bit, remove the three bolts attaching it to the intake and pull straight out. I'll bet it is all clogged up with soot.

If this is clogged up, how bad is the clogging in the intake inside this area? The anti-shudder valve is between this EGR valve and the large black curved intake hose (towards the back of the engine). It too can be clogged and not operating its full range. It is used to regulate air flow during engine operation, besides the momentary close at shutdown. It is more awkward to remove.
 
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cstopherj

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Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
Tanks Whitedog

I've been already reviewing the links in your sig. They've been enlightening, but, the most applicable actaully is for 2003 and earlier, the anti-shudder valve, which, in fact may be the case, but, since it's a '04 w/ an electric vs. vacuum anti shudder, I need more applicable informaiton.

I like the sig though w/ knowlede you've found valuable. Great Idea.

Thank you
 

cstopherj

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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
MOGolf said:
That beeep is the EGR valve going through a calibration sequence after the ignition is turned off. Normal.

However, this is the device that is giving your engine a bit of problem. Disconnect the electrical connector to it. Use a 5mm hex key, or socket bit, remove the three bolts attaching it to the intake and pull straight out. I'll bet it is all clogged up with soot.

If this is clogged up, how bad is the clogging in the intake inside this area? The anti-shudder valve is between this EGR valve and the large black curved intake hose (towards the back of the engine). It too can be clogged and not operating its full range. It is used to regulate air flow during engine operation, besides the momentary close at shutdown. It is more awkward to remove.

Awesome MOGolf, I needed an excuse to tear into that, thanks. I was looking at that already (the thing w/ the balkc cover and electical connectors) I wanted to remove the entire thing, but, didn't want to tear into more than I should.

I'll go remove it now and get back w/ you.

Thanks
 

whitedog

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2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
cstopherj for future reference, when MOGolf speaks, listen to him, not me. :)

Pull that EGR valve out and take a look.
 

cstopherj

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Oct 29, 2008
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
Holy EGR Valve - Pictures Below

MOGolf said:
That beeep is the EGR valve going through a calibration sequence after the ignition is turned off. Normal.

However, this is the device that is giving your engine a bit of problem. Disconnect the electrical connector to it. Use a 5mm hex key, or socket bit, remove the three bolts attaching it to the intake and pull straight out. I'll bet it is all clogged up with soot.

If this is clogged up, how bad is the clogging in the intake inside this area? The anti-shudder valve is between this EGR valve and the large black curved intake hose (towards the back of the engine). It too can be clogged and not operating its full range. It is used to regulate air flow during engine operation, besides the momentary close at shutdown. It is more awkward to remove.
Holy Black Smoking EGR Valve - Now What

I assume I now begin taking apart everything and cleaning? What a #$#@ Mess.

Good Call buddy.

Any suggestions or methods suggested for this cleaning?

How far do I go? Any pitfalls to watch out for?

Thanks a million man!


 

cstopherj

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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
EGR Comparison

jeeper038 said:
Your EGR valve doesn't look that bad. Here is mine. To clean just take a small flat head screwdriver and scrape all that gunk off then use a little carb cleaner and a rag to wipe clean. Cleaning added about 2mpg to mine. http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=51936&cat=500&ppuser=55752
http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=51937&cat=500&ppuser=55752

Jeeper, Thanks! It's good to have some perpective, I've been steaming about this since I pulled out. I've since disconnedted the other butterfly flap thing (throttle body looking thing) and all the hose and plastic train running to the innercooler on the drivers side, front down low in front of FL Wheel.

I also pulled the curved pipe, before the EGR, it doesn't actaull look that bad, I may clean in up.

I might be new to TDI's but, I 've had 3 diesel vehicles since 2002, and, I've never seen such a mess, it's this acceptable for VW TDI?

That level of soot and oil blow bye seem extensive.

Seeing this, I would expect either BAD Oil, with the lowered ability to absorb soot, and/or poor driving habits, which, may be the case here, I don't know how the previous owner drove, but, she may have granny'd it a bit.

I drive in between, depending on traffic, weather, and my desire to get MPG's, I'm currently running about 33mpg's average per tank (measured by tank)

There must be an oil/fuel adjustment that needs to be made here.

I agree w/ some other posts, ULSD does clean stuff left behind by LSD, so, perhaps a cleanup will result in a longer term between cleanings here.

Thanks Jeeper
 

jeeper038

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Jan 11, 2007
Location
Central, IN
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05 Passat
Those pics are at ~110,000 never been cleaned before as far as I know. I just bought it about 3 months ago so I am going throught it as you are. My first two tanks were 31-32mpg, it slowly rose to 34-36mpg and my last two tanks after cleaning the EGR were 37 & 38mpg.
 

MOGolf

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The oil comes from the crankcase ventilation. It is expected.

For the number of miles, the soot buildup doesn't look too bad. Be careful cleaning out. You don't want chunks going through the intake down to the valves.

Can you post a picture of the "butterfly flap thing" to show its condition?
 

cstopherj

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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
That's about what I've seen, 32-33 to start, then, I believe this last tank *would have been* closer to 35, but, I won't use it im my average now.

I'll let you know what it looks like after I clean it up.
 

cstopherj

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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
here are some more pictures before clean up

My question though is, should I remove the entire intake manifold and clean in up, if it looks like this, It's a scary thought to have it coated in 5mm of crud.






Here is the link for the other photos I've taken thus far, but, the two above are the most telling

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showgallery.php?cat=4351

Thanks again for ya'll help

Cj
 

danielhf

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Mar 27, 2007
Location
Seattle, WA
TDI
None anymore...
I also second the idea of checking your lift pump. I have had 2 lift pump failures with retrofitted lift pumps in my non-PD TDI and I can tell you that the problems you described sound very familiar. Pull it out and test it on the bench. Just send 12 volts to the power pins and have it try to pump some diesel additive to check its performance.
 

cstopherj

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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
I intend to check that out, upon filling the fuel filter as mentioned, I only put about 2-3 ounces in it, so, it was mostly full already .. . That could have been vacuum from the hi pressure pump, but, I really hear a lot of sloshing around of fuel when the pump comes on, so, I want to take it out and look at the thing.

Good advice, I will proceed
 

cstopherj

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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
I dissambled everyting from the 1" (yellowed seen to the right in the below picture) Exhaust Return pipe feeding the ERG valve to down to the Innercooler. It was exceptionally oily and cruddy around the ERG valve and butterfly valve/throttle body(?)


The Crud just inside the intake manifold where these items mount had crud, most likely loosened when these components were removed, I used a shop vacuum to suck that stuff out so it didn't get sucked into the manifold.

Upon Reassembly, I noted some interesting facts, I'll post those in the next reply

Crud Sucked out of the manifold around butterfly valve:






Before Cleaning - EGR Valve


After Cleaning - EGR Valve


AND



Before Cleaning - Butterfly Valve / Throttle Body?

After Cleaning - Butterfly Valve / Throttle Body?


AND

 

cstopherj

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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
Clean - Still having same issue - Blow By oil

After reassembly, I started - same issue, it ran for a second or two, then shuttered violently and died. I performed this cycle 2-3 times, with same results, exhaust gas was very rich and smoky. The only difference between the first time and the last time when I try starting 2-5 times is the first one is always smoother and a second or two longer whereas, the 4-5th time, the engine shuts down right away, and the smoke is much heavier from the exhaust.

I pulled out the EGR valve again, and it was coated w/ black sooty oil.

That amount of blow bye does not seem right to me. The oil appears to be mostly coming from the manifold/exhaust side, the plunger was coated w/ dry soot, and the round portion of the EGR covered w/ oil.

The 'rich' mixture is understandibly causing a lot of soot, so, it's to be expected somewhat.

The EGR valve itself is what was making the 'whine' or 'beeeeeeep' I tried to move the plunger on the EGR valve, and it's very tight, I got it to move, used a little WD-40 to loosen it up, but, it was still pretty tight. Now the high pitched whine is about .5 seconds whereas before it was about 5-8 seconds long. I don't think it's supposed to whine at all, and though it probably needs to be replaced (bummer since I just cleaned in up) I don't think it could be causing the engine run problem.

A couple of questions/statement, please comment, It's a newer vehicle to me, so, Much of this is just speculation.

  1. What is the source of the blow by oil - a PVC valve? (pictured? below) The hose coming out of this connection leads to a little electronic fitting, I don't know what it does, but, could it 'fail' and allow more blow by?
  2. The TURBO is actively oiled, could there be a 'leak' in the turbo that's allowing oil to pass into the exhaust?
  3. Could that oil have fouled up the Catalytic Converter, resutining in high back pressure? (maybe I'll disconnect the exhaust unless someone has a better suggestion)
  4. Is there anything else that could be causing this level of blow-by oil in the exhaust?
  5. What happens when a turbo 'siezes up' does it cause an exhaust blockage? Could this be the issue?
  6. Could it be as simple as the turbo vanes not adjusting correctly? I believe that would cause an overboost. If there this much oil in the exhaust, it could be preventing the turbo from spinning freely.

Thanks to everyone, you've been very helpful.
 

Mechnurse

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I wonder if the butteryfly is staying closed when you start the vehicle that's why it chokes itself off in 2-3 seconds. Can you try to leave the butteryfly electrical plug disconnected and see if that helps
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I would clean the EGR and throttle body really good (although they look pretty normal to me) and check the output of the lift pump, although black smoke suggests plenty of fuel but not enough air. I'd also check all the charge air connections post turbo.
 

b5r

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WOW this is great stuff. I have 101000 miles on my 04 Passat TDI GLS and have not touched this issue yet... My question for cstopherj was in your intial time the problem started did you have any loss of electrical power almost like a surging on you dash lights since it happened at night?
 

senez

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Yeah, I've never had this particular issue, knock on wood.

Though when it's been cold, when I start up there are one or two quick knocking or popping sounds. Not sure what that's all about.
 

MOGolf

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cstopherj said:
The EGR valve itself is what was making the 'whine' or 'beeeeeeep' I tried to move the plunger on the EGR valve, and it's very tight, I got it to move, used a little WD-40 to loosen it up, but, it was still pretty tight. Now the high pitched whine is about .5 seconds whereas before it was about 5-8 seconds long. I don't think it's supposed to whine at all, and though it probably needs to be replaced (bummer since I just cleaned in up) I don't think it could be causing the engine run problem.
That reads like you've broken it now. It is supposed to have the high pitched whine upon shutdown. Mine does it. They all do it (unless broken). Of course it was tight. It is a plunger fixed to a stepper motor. The electrical motor positions it to allow the EGR or block it off. That whine is the motor operating through a calibration sequence and positioning for the next engine start.

Your fault codes indicated EGR and too rich fuel mixture. You won't have a fuel mixture that's too rich if this were lift pump related.

As indicated the flapper may be malfunctioning. It could cause the rich mixture by closing too much. Close too far for too long and there's not enough air to burn the fuel and the engine shuts down. Got any friends with similar cars that you could temporarily swap parts? Swap with one for a test drive and see what happens.

A test could be to have them disconnected from the intake but electrically hooked up. Have an assistant start the car, run it briefly, then shut it off. Meanwhile you watch the operation of these devices, including the period after shut off. Report what you observe. At shutdown, the flapper should go from full open to full close then open again. The EGR should operate its plunger too.
 

cstopherj

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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
b5r said:
WOW this is great stuff. I have 101000 miles on my 04 Passat TDI GLS and have not touched this issue yet... My question for cstopherj was in your intial time the problem started did you have any loss of electrical power almost like a surging on you dash lights since it happened at night?
Good question - NO, I had not electrical issues when this happened (I can relate to what you're getting at because I have had that issue w/ a GMC Duramax Truck, but now, I can qualitatively say there were no electricial abnormalities when I had ANY of these issues, first time or otherwise)

Thanks for your help!
 

cstopherj

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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
Mechnurse said:
I wonder if the butteryfly is staying closed when you start the vehicle that's why it chokes itself off in 2-3 seconds. Can you try to leave the butteryfly electrical plug disconnected and see if that helps
Mechnurse - GOOD Questions, no, I haven't tried that (I don't think) maybe before the cleaning, but, It's worth a try again, I will try that out . . . just to note, that butterfly valve springs to the open position, so, w/out power, though it may flag an emissions DTC, it should remain open and unobstructed.

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow night and let you know.
 

cstopherj

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Fort Worth, Texas
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'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
MOGolf said:
That reads like you've broken it now. It is supposed to have the high pitched whine upon shutdown. Mine does it. They all do it (unless broken). Of course it was tight. It is a plunger fixed to a stepper motor. The electrical motor positions it to allow the EGR or block it off. That whine is the motor operating through a calibration sequence and positioning for the next engine start.
quote]

It still whines a little but for about 1 second; prior to cleaning it was much longer 5-10 seconds
 

cstopherj

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Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
MOGolf said:
. . .

As indicated the flapper may be malfunctioning. It could cause the rich mixture by closing too much. Close too far for too long and there's not enough air to burn the fuel and the engine shuts down. Got any friends with similar cars that you could temporarily swap parts? Swap with one for a test drive and see what happens.

A test could be to have them disconnected from the intake but electrically hooked up. Have an assistant start the car, run it briefly, then shut it off. Meanwhile you watch the operation of these devices, including the period after shut off. Report what you observe. At shutdown, the flapper should go from full open to full close then open again. The EGR should operate its plunger too.
MOGolf. Thanks!

Unfortunately, I have no friends :( . . . well, none with a taste for diesel cars anyway :D . . So, though a great idea, not likely.

I've done what you suggest as a test for the EGR Valve, several times, I can actaully set it up on the battery cover, plugged in, and watch it move . . . slowly. I have NOT however done that w/ the Butterfly valve. I'll try that Tuesday night when I get home from work.

I've been somewhat fearful :eek: to actually try to start the vehicle w/ either of these devices removed for fear of either heavy exhaust under the hood or unfiltered air being sucked into the intake (then again, there was probably more crud inside before cleaning than there is in the air in my garage, but, not by much)

I'll let you know what I find out!

Thanks for your continued interest.

P.S. I'm taking volunteers to be friends in Fort Worth if you have a simiar car . . . we can swap some parts and have a cold one.

And for those of you wondering, yes, I just realized there were smilies over there on the right! :confused:
 

mtbr297

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2015 Golf TDI, Seat Leon FR PD 150 6 speed.
You can run the car, for a short time, with the intake tube removed and see if the shutter valve is staying open without doing any damage. Have someone try to start the car while you watch the shutter valve. I will try to call you tomorrow.
 

cstopherj

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Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
'04 Passat - Grey - 2.0 TDI
Updates! Still No Start Condition

OK, I've done a few more tests, and, mentally, I've been eliminating several items.

I pulled the intake side of the turbo off, I'm able to spin the turbo w/ my finger, so, it’s not bound up, it feels pretty tight.

I removed the hose from the 'Butter Fly' valve, and, as my wife started the vehicle, which ran for about 3 seconds, the valve remained open during starting.

I also tried to start w/ turbo intake off, and, it did the same thing.

I'm now convinced that AIR is not the problem; it's either Exhaust or Fuel.

I also covered the tail pipe w/ my hand while the car was started, and, I do feel pressure, so, I don't believe now that's it's an Exhaust restriction.

I pulled the Lift pump out of the fuel tank, I've completely disassembled it, and am letting it dry out over night to eliminate as much fuel as I can before applying power.

As a side note, it's amazing that unsealed power leads can be used on these things while submerged in fuel. I'll take some pictures tomorrow, but, it's pretty scary to think of.

Other tank being a little dirty (black film), the lift pump looks to be in decent shape w/ no obvious defects.

I will see if it pumps anything tomorrow, I did find some fine sediment on the fuel intake screen, but, not enough to 'clog' the screen or restrict fuel. I am going to look tonight to see what the operation of this unit is, but, there is a tube, running down the side to the bottom, which is connected to a small 'jet' w/ a pin hole assemble, it appears this forces fuel laterally across the bottom of the housing through a tube, w/ a little flapper, which allow fuel to enter the housing but will not allow it to exit. I want to see if that 'jet' is working, because, as I mentioned, I hear a lot of rushing noises when I start, like fuel sloshing around, perhaps the flapper is sticking and not allowing fuel to enter the fuel pump cavity easily.


Your Suggestions are appreciated, anything to look for while the pump is out of the car?

(By the way - my pump is in the floor of the truck rather than under the seat, just a not to other's that may do this. I'd seen another thread on removal and installation which showed it under the rear seat.
· to Remove the fuel lines, if the elbow points to 12:00, then with pliers pinch at 12 and 6 o'clock (not 3 and 9) and pull up, they pop right off
· To remove the RING I used tool much like the one MOGOLF and Oilhammer refer to as a SST OHTOOL-BJ0002 (Is that really an 8" 2x4? ) I actually used a CSJ PWTOOL-CJ0001 (sounds good right?); a piece of 1x2 pine about 6 inches long and a hammer tapping LIGHTLY on the teeth of the ring so as not to fracture them. I tapped until the ring moved, and worked my way around the ring a 12,3,6,&9 o'clock until it was loose enough to unscrew by hand
· DON'T drop the Rubber Seal down into the tank, mine wanted to stay on the tank orifice when I pulled the pump up, and became dislodged when pulling the pump out. I caught it in time, but, it could happen.

Fuel in the tank looked good. But, there's not much else to see but the surface w/ out a flashlight, w/ a trouble light, it’s like a green mirror.

I am highly suspect of fuel and fuel delivery at this point. I believe this lift pump is good, and I just put in a new filter

Does anyone know how to test the High Pressure pump? Could it be unable to pull fuel from the filter?

As Always, I appreciate any of your comments and help!!!!


Thanks,

Cj
 

MOGolf

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 27, 2001
Location
underneath something
TDI
2001 Golf GLS TDI Reflex silver, rough road suspension and steel skid plate, 2004 Passat Variant, Candy White, rough road suspension and geared balanced shaft module, and much, much more. 2016 LR RR HSE TD6, 2019 Jaguar I-PACE
cstopherj said:
As a side note, it's amazing that unsealed power leads can be used on these things while submerged in fuel. I'll take some pictures tomorrow, but, it's pretty scary to think of....

I want to see if that 'jet' is working, because, as I mentioned, I hear a lot of rushing noises when I start, like fuel sloshing around, perhaps the flapper is sticking and not allowing fuel to enter the fuel pump cavity easily.
Perfectly normal for unsealed power leads. Gasoline cars with in-tank pumps are like this too. There's no danger. It has been this way since car manufacturers have put pumps in the tanks.

Sloshing sound is normal too at start time. That indicates the pump is working and pressurizing the fuel system.

Don't need pliers to release the fuel lines from the pump nipples. There's a small button to push and they come right off.

You need to put the pump back in the tank oriented exactly the way it was when you removed this.

The A4 forums have pictures, etc., on pump removals. Yes, the Passat has it under the covers of cargo area, not under the rear seat like the smaller cars.

By any chance is the immobilizer light flashing when the car the car shutdown after 3 seconds?

You should have checked that the fuel filter had fuel in it before all this other work. The next step after that would be to remove the return line from the engine at the fuel filter T, cap off the T, route the hose to a large container, and try to run the car. Fuel should be coming out of that return line at a decent flow rate. If not, then the tandem pump may be bad.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
MOGolf beat me to it, I was thinking immo as well. If it starts normally and runs for 3 seconds and shuts off, that may be the issue.

I would scan all the modules, if it is the immo there should be some record of it in one of the modules.
 
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