Honda Guy With First VW

homersapien said:

The only additives I have ever used in my (fuel injected) Hondas was Techron. It's main purpose is to keep the injectors clean.
I was planning on using it in my Jetta as well. One bottle about every 10k miles. Otherwise, I'll have to do the research on Optilube, etc.
I don't have the sunroof. I didn't want it. I have had sunroofs and never really enjoyed them. They are sort of nice, for about 5 or 10 minutes but not enough to justify the noise, weight, complexity and problems that come with them. I suspect they also weaken the body, but I don't know that for sure.
Ironically, I almost never drive my "S" with the top up. But that car has a totally different purpose than my Jetta.

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With the exception of mine being a 13 and yours being a 14, we have almost the same car, a white with beige interior for me, manual and no options except the floor mats and first aid kit.

hooville said:

There are several varieties of Techron, and the version I use in our gassers specifically says not to use it in "compression ignition engines" or something along those lines. Not sure why it doesn't simply say not to mix it with diesel, but that's the gist of it.
Enjoy the wagon, we left the Honda fold for essentially the same reason: the CRV was the only "wagony" option so we were looking at Imprezas & Matrixes. A friend suggested looking at a TDI Golf, we ended up in a Jetta wagon and now we have one of each!

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I liked the Mazda 3 but they didn't have the 2.5 liter/6 spd available yet. I like the Golf but not as much as the JSW. But if I didn't already have a sports car, I could easily see a GTI.

Didn't realize there were different Techrons. I thought Techron was Techron.

kjclow said:

Make sure that whatever additive you use is intended for use in diesel engines. I have only used additives in the last almost five years when the car has been sitting for several weeks. Otherwise, I fill and go. Most diesel in SC is now 5% or above bio anyway. Most of the reports say that anything over 1% bio offers more than enough lubricity that you should need to add anything else.

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Thanks for the info. Never imagined owning a diesel would involve so much fuel expertise. I never even heard of fuel lubricates until a found this site. Reminds me of dealing with a 2 stroke engine.

homersapien said:

Thanks for the info. Never imagined owning a diesel would involve so much fuel expertise. I never even heard of fuel lubricates until a found this site. Reminds me of dealing with a 2 stroke engine.

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Don't over think it. Just enjoy the ride.

I use the Optilube Summer Plus here in Austin. Less of it is required and that works fine as Shell, which we use, has some bio in it anyway. Based on some informal studies, it about pays for itself in additional mpg so it cost about nothing.

Up north, a more serious mixture and dose would certainly be required in the winter.

On a side note, I paid $2.94 per gallon on a fill up the other day-nice.

I have seen $2.75/gal in NJ.

Paid $2.89/gal at a local Shell today.

There's a lot you can read about additives, usually about 100 threads of people arguing while usually not possessing adequate knowledge to do so. But the bottom line is most if not all people who've had hpfp failures don't add lubricity improvers. Depending on where you live, they are even more necessary in the winter, as the straight #2 gets cut with kerosene, further reducing its ability to lubricate. Anti gel is not necessarily the same as lubricity either. Some additives, like Howes do both and that is good, but diesel 911 does not. Some additives are horrible for the fuel system. And some additives are good for that, but not the dpf. If you choose to add a 2 stroke oil, make sure it burns clean, and won't clog the dpf. That is why VW does not endorse the use of additives.

scdevon said:

Enjoy the new ride. You're going to have to modify your Japanese car shifting patterns. It's ok to wind out the gears once in a while, but these engines like to live between 1800 to 2200 rpm all day long. Anything more than 2500 rpm is kind of a waste if your goal is fuel efficient daily driving.

Add fuel lubricity. People who like to play Russian roulette with their fuel system will tell you otherwise, but there is no risk to adding lubricity and plenty of risk if you get a tank or two of fuel that a robot or a human being apparently "forgot" to add lubricity to or fuel that has slight gasoline contamination. Read up on fuel scar ratings. Remember that lower numbers are better.

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I tend to disagree, yes they are great at that rpm..however saying over 2500 rpm is a waste is just craziness, winding these out more then once in a while will help the whole car more then many believe. Cars with dpfs, egrs and all standard exhaust hurdles in place greatly benefit from an owner who isnt afraid to be hard on it more often. Keeps dpf cleaner, vanes cleaner diesels like load and work.

I run my car very hard, tow often and i have had zero failures, same with my mk4....not only that when my dpf came out my ash load was very low for the mileage and when the turbo came out it was in great shape....my sister drives like a little old lady and shes on her second dpf in 1/4 of the kms i put on my dpf.

2011tdiproject said:

That is why VW does not endorse the use of additives.

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The manual for these cars, in the diesel fuel section states no start assist fluids. It says nothing prohibiting or approving additives for the fuel.

In the gasoline engine section it states not to use additives.