Tony's B4 Project

5 Buck fix on the hood....

Forgot to mention earlier on the thread...use a white scotch brite on the hood to take off lose clear coat, then respray with a can of clearcoat. It will pass the 10 foot rule (okay, maybe 15) until you are ready to repaint. Send me a PM, I think I have a set of original speakers out of my 97 B4 you can have for shipping.

48 MPG said:

Forgot to mention earlier on the thread...use a white scotch brite on the hood to take off lose clear coat, then respray with a can of clearcoat. It will pass the 10 foot rule (okay, maybe 15) until you are ready to repaint. Send me a PM, I think I have a set of original speakers out of my 97 B4 you can have for shipping.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the paint band aid!

Also, thanks for the offer on speakers. I figure I have 2 good speakers right now, so I ordered 2 new speakers with the replacement head unit, last week. Should be here tomorrow.

Tony

Crankcase ventilation mod

What is the purpose of the PVC assembly that has hoses going to it from the ventilation on the valve cover? Just curious, I have just recently got my own 96 Passat project on the road. It was just like yours, cam gear cam loose on the cam and came out of time. Anyway I was just curious what the purpose of this mod is for.

That's a CCV filter. See this thread. It's purpose is to minimize or eliminate the oil mist from the crankcase vent (CCV) from getting into the intake stream and combining with soot from EGR to gum up the intake.

Tony

Latest update:
Parked the car last thursday for new front wheel bearings, so it gets aligned again. That's OK: bought the lifetime alignement at Firestone. Best deal going!

Also waiting on a fresh rebuilt turbo from Aaron. Should be here Thursday, so I can get it in Friday and start driving it again.

So, the car has been parked for almost a week now. Driving me nuts having to drive the truck - just filled it up $130! Only driving the TDI for 4 weeks, and already miss it for the last week!

Tony

Turbo in & driving for the last 2 weeks. New turbo does seem to have cut oil consuption by ~1/2. Now it's ~250ml every 600 miles or so.

MPG up to 39.0. ~50/50 city-fwy. Did have ~120 mile freeway drive.

New wheel bearings seemed to have cured the wandering.

No major work left, unless clutch, trans, or AC dies! Lets hope I can get at least 1 year out those three components.

Tony

Installed the dieselgeek A3/B4 short shifter tonight. What a tight shifter! Well worth every penny. See here.

Tony

Latest issues

Voltage regulator died; almost left me stranded downtown. Fortunately, I was able to push start the car. New regulator and electrical system is all well!

In repairing the alternator, it appears the AC system died. Was getting 40F air out the vents, then after the alternator, 60F air. Thought I had a leak, byt the can of dye showed nothing significant.

Pump down & recharge; now nothing! Got it to a full charge and can't get low side below ~60PSI and high side will run 150-170, and if I manually cycle the compressor, I can get it to ~240psi. So, I am just going to replace major components, since the are probably original: Drier, Expansion valve, Compressor, and the condensor (it's a little beat up). Hate to spend money, but I don't want to mess with it all through the summer!

Tony

Great Job Tony!

Thanks for all the info you added to my B4 library......I just ordered that
shortshifter.....and my B4 has not yet arrived

Did you ever consider throwing in an AHU motor??

NBnext said:

Did you ever consider throwing in an AHU motor??

Click to expand...

Not really...the 1Z runs just fine. If I had to buy a long block, I might consider an AHU. I figure at ~15k miles per year, the motor will last another 10+ years. I would hope to buy a new diesel commuter that gets better mpg before then! But, we'll see.

Tony

Latest repairs:
AC System: New Compressor, condenser and expansion valve. Had ACKITS.com remake the hoses. i.e. they replace the rubber sections of the old hoses.

Troubleshooting some wierdness; AC would blow cold for 2-3 days, then not cold. Eventually traced it down to a bad condensor; contacted autohausAZ.com for a replacement & had no issues after that. System blowing cold for 3 weeks now!

Normal AC pressures w/ 100-110F ambient:
Low ~30psi, steady
Hi 220-250 psi, and oscillating

These are variable displacement compressors and will cycle to maintain liquid going to the expansion valve.

More stuff to fix:
1) Pass wiper doesn't quite wipe the window; pressure issue w/ blade or arm
2) Trunk key lock broke; trying to find one on the cheap
3) Vibration near the drivers a-pillar; seems tied to the wiper system. Can adjust (swivel) the linkage and vibration goes away.

Tony

I'm having that same issue on the passenger side, I tried working some lube into the hinges and that helps a little, not totally solved though.

Wow, hey Tony, that is a lot of work you got going into that Passat. I'm working on a little A3 project myself, nothing as extensive as your project. Great work. Excellent read.

thanks

Yeah honda, it was a LOT of work. And, continues to be a bit of work from time to time. It reminds me why I don't like used cars.

But, I take some pride driving the Passat when I get MPG like yesterday, estimate is in the high 40's. I'll have top it off to satisfy my curiosity.

Thanks!

Tony

TonyJetta said:

Latest repairs:
AC System: New Compressor, condenser and expansion valve. Had ACKITS.com remake the hoses. i.e. they replace the rubber sections of the old hoses.
<snip>
Tony

Click to expand...

Tony,

I put a new A/C compressor in my 96 B4V about 3 weeks ago. Cost me $1028 at a local and very good shop.

What did your A/C work cost you, if you don't mind?

john.jackson9213 said:

What did your A/C work cost you, if you don't mind?

Click to expand...

~$900 in parts and freon, me doing the labor.

Parts changed:
Compressor
Condensor
Drier
Expansion Valve
Hoses rebuilt (rubber sections replaced)
New o-rings

Tony

TonyJetta said:

Latest repairs:


More stuff to fix:
1) Pass wiper doesn't quite wipe the window; pressure issue w/ blade or arm

Tony

Click to expand...

I had this problem on my B3- ended up replacing the whole wiper drive assy due to the bushing at the wiper pivot being blown out-

grab hold of the arm down at the bottom and give it a wiggle-

got one from PnP for like $10-


Bryan

I just bent it a little more...I'll try the wiggle too.

Thanks!

Tony

Still chasing what appears to be a wiper-area vibration/rattle.

Recent work:
1) New front brakes - MUCH improved pedal feel. BTW, should have bought from Aaron. Had the brakes sitting on the shelf for 1yr and had the wrong pads. Oh, well. Next time, I'll buy from Aaron.

2) Replaced both wiper arm-linkages; no improvement

3) Replaced the oil cooler seal (see this thread) and the gasket on the oil filter adapter, against the engine block. I was apparently losing quite a bit of oil...much more than just a drip in the driveway. My oil consumption has gone to NEAR ZERO! WOO HOO!

Tony

Im a amazed at all the work youve done on yours and commend you for it. I consider myself extremely lucky- not had to do a ton of the stuff you have although my front body panels are ragged to look at. This car just keeps on buzzing day in /out. Like the fact that one can work on this model more easily than some makes.
funny story today- Ive been recently thinking about my rear view mirror coming unglued -pass. side- and sure enough while clipping along at 55 down the hwy it dropped and banged on the side of the car [fri. the 13th?] so turned around went back 1/2 mile and there it laid on the blacktop, unscathed!! not a crack or scratch on it. will be glueing it back on this wk/end and changeing oil too.

Bola, yes, I too like the fact that these cars are relatively easy to work on. The best part is through the 'club, they are so WELL UNDERSTOOD!

Motor on!

Tony

Latest developments:
1) Replace the fan drive motor earlier this summer
2) Flush brake fluid - due to residual corrosion, it appears I need to do this annually.
3) Change trans gear oil - again, due to residual nasty in the trans, it appears I need to do this annually.
4) Replaced outer CV boots - lobro boots are not good for the outer joints, 20k miles and they were spitting grease!
5) Chasing a subtle drive line noise, after repacking the CV's. Only under acceleration, and in higher gears, 3-5.
6) Over thanksgiving, had a local muffler shop install a 2.25" cat back straight pipe. Slight drone across the RPM band, but not unmanageable.

Driving pattern has changed recently....doing about 250 miles freeway and 100 miles city per week.

Oil consumption has gone down to ~0.375l per 2500 miles!

Thinking about:
1) Swapping out the drivers seat for a model in better condition.
2) Installing a Sat receiver...but I don't mind the MP3 CD's
3) Injectors, a tune, and a clutch...but I don't have the time or the $$ right now!
4) 2.25" Down pipe w/ 4" flex.

Tony

TonyJetta said:

Latest developments:
Thinking about:
1) Swapping out the drivers seat for a model in better condition.
Tony

Click to expand...

Tony,
I took both front seats in my car apart. The foam tears along the edge of the metal seat pan. I re-glued the foam using contact cement (takes several coats), then glued a layer of fabric on the top and bottom using spray adhesive. I figure that will give it some additional support. Reinstalled them and they look like new...
Good time to clean the smutz off of them too...

David

David,
Thanks for the tip!

Tony

Redlabel6, Wondering how long it takes to remove the front seat from the car?,,reason, There is an upholstery shop at facilities plant I work in and my guy there is willing to help repair it. It needs similar work as yours Id have to guess.

Bola,
Getting the seat out takes about 5 minutes. Disconnect any wiring underneath, Remove the plastic covers over the tracks from the back seat, remove the bolt in the track at the front and slide it out the back.
Taking them apart takes longer.
You need to remove the plastic trim on the sides of the seat at the pivot point. Don't just pull it off! You need to look behind it, and push the pin that expands the plastic tab, not sure what to call it, before you pull it off or it WILL break. Don't ask how I found out..... Remove the spring clip at the front of the bracket, then the Allen bolt and you can separate the seat from the back. Mine are not heated, so I don't know if there is a wire to deal with on heated seats.
At the rear of the seat bottom you will see a piano wire on each side that is stuck through a hole. Pull the wire out, an you will be able to pull the fabric away from the meta seat pan and foam. There are a few other little clips and a few metal tabs you will need to bend out of the way.
Once the fabric is loose from the seat pan you can remove the foam and fabric as a unit. Then the "fun" begins. There are 2 very stout wires sewn into the fabric that connect to other wires that are moulded into the seat foam. I was able to bend the foam enough to get them to release.
The foam on both of my seats was torn along the grove this wire fits into. Your upholstery guy may have a special foam glue that sets up fast. The contact cement method works, but takes a while.
I did not fully remove the fabric from my seat back to repair that foam. I was able to move it out of the way enough to facilitate the repairs. The wires holding the seat back fabric in place are a BEAR!
I also used some spray adhesive and glued a layer of scrap fabric over the tear in the foam to give it some extra support.
Reassembly is the reverse. I was amazed at the difference!

I was also shocked at how filthy the seats were once I got them apart.,,,, I had already cleaned them once!
I have some pictures, but I don't have an external site to upload them from. I can e-mail them to you if you like.

Photos can be hosted on the tdi club photo site...See the link in the blue bar. Your login works the same!

Tony

Thanks for the write up Redlabel! PM me and I can give the email or post them in the photos area. Will probably take them apart myself and let the upholsterer do the specifics'. He has most everything a good upholstery shop could have to work with. Thanks

OK, Lets try this picture thing...
[/IMG]
Cool! Thanks Tony!
This one shows the clip and the allen bolt you need to remove to separate the seat from the back.
[/IMG]
Seat pan with foam and fabric removed
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Piano wire attachment of the fabric to the seat foam... a BEAR to get apart.
[/IMG]
Repaired foam with additional fabric ready for re-installation.
Hope this helps!
David

Great writeup and photos Redlabel6 - I need to do this to my driver seat soon, and your instructions will be a great help.

May I suggest you start a new topic with your instructions & photos so other members can find them with the search function - I am sure this will benefit others as well as myself.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.