Ticking noise on ALH motor...

Coasting downhill in gear. Computer pretty much cuts fuel. Over 10 years with 0W40 and no issues in 2 diesels and 2 gassers.

nice!
little simple fixes

since posting in this thread I had another one where it was #1 intake, so I couldn't get the lifter out without removing the t-belt
decided to let it ride until the timing belt was due in 40k miles, and that was a mistake, 20k miles later that lifter that was clacking along shattered and ate the cam, valve, head, an injector and a piston.

Franko6 said:

The history was learned when multiple engines during a particularly hot summer in TX, OK, AR and MO, I serviced several engines with seized #4 pistons,

Click to expand...

always #1 and #4 it seems

Butted the end gap and broke the compression ring on #1 and slightly later #4 on my wagon. Had the head and pan off three times in 20k miles, really annoying stuff.
It's the intake manifold design that does it, majority of the air goes to #2 and #3, so 1 and 4 run hotter. Haven't gotten around to welding up a better intake top half for that car yet, but I'll get to it one of these days.

If only... It's been years sitting on the CAD program. I need to get off my ass and do that intake project.

Yeah Frank….quit goofing off…..
Only kidding.

Franko6 said:

If only... It's been years sitting on the CAD program. I need to get off my ass and do that intake project.

Click to expand...

I've just been sticking an air/water IC core into them, expanding out the 'box' portion a bit
figure the restriction of the IC core has to fix the charge distribution in a very brute force manner

kinda like those old dual-chamber intakes that breathe through a slot between the chambers

Isnt the BRM intake a significant improvement in flow and balance for these engines? I think I read something about that not too long ago.

RacerTodd said:

From the Bentley:

Click to expand...

I’m going to drag this thread up to the top again, when doing this check on the lifters, does the car *have* to be at operating temperature for definitive results?
Reason I ask is I checked mine while I had the valve cover off and about half of the lifters had about 1/8 inch of “squish”, the car hasn’t been started in a few months though.
Is this a problem?

J_dude said:

I’m going to drag this thread up to the top again, when doing this check on the lifters, does the car *have* to be at operating temperature for definitive results?
Reason I ask is I checked mine while I had the valve cover off and about half of the lifters had about 1/8 inch of “squish”, the car hasn’t been started in a few months though.
Is this a problem?

Click to expand...

well, oil prolly does drain outta the lifters over time, and oil is what makes hydraulics not squishy like pneumatics are