2003 Golf Alternator Pulley R&R

133000 miles? My factory-original alternator is still running fine at 416000 miles...

Most of the vendors who frequent this site have the pulley available (you do need the install tools...) idparts.com metalmanparts.com maybe boraparts.com dieselgeek.com


Yuri

Alternator 176$ napa

Pulley 98$


Tools ?

So for 76$ more have new alt and pulley and no need for tools Just a idea for changing the alt.

tdi03jetta said:

Alternator 176$ napa

Pulley 98$


Tools ?

So for 76$ more have new alt and pulley and no need for tools Just a idea for changing the alt.

Click to expand...

That's an awfully cheap price. I paid $329 for a rebuilt Bosch alternator from NAPA a few years ago. It was, and is, a very good alternator.

Is that Napa Alternator a rebuilt Bosch? 120 amp? Sounds much too cheap...

BTW: the pulley is $58 shipped from metalmanparts.com - although you do need the $30 serrated tools... (There are many TDI-Club members in Columbus... perhaps one of them will lend/rent you the tools...)

Yuri

The rebuilt Bosch alternator I got came with a printout of the bench test; it showed the full name of the technician who performed the rebuild. I was impressed, because a warranty on a replacement part is not so great if it fails and you have to pay for labor to install yet another one.

I do know it was a 120 amp because I would guess thats what my takes as it has cold weather package. I do not know what brand it is I am pickup a throwout bearing tm I will find out.

On a side note does anyone know it the single mass clutch use the same throwout bearing as the DMF

Depends on the manufacturer... If you have a Valeo clutch, you need a Valeo throwout bearing - it's thicker...

Yuri

It is the south bend clutch stage 2

Found the throwout bearing stuck in the foam in the clutch box they could have done a better job of foaming the box up thanks guys

Anyone know why the TDI alternators are so expensive compared to gassers? I just this happen and I'm replacing with a new alternator for $490(part only). The local parts store guy was surprised it cost so much as he said gas car alternators are usually <$200. Perhaps it's the 120amp rating?

Bosch Remanufactured is C$388.55 at autopartsway.ca (plus refundable core charge)


Yuri


PS: I believe the alternator bearings have to be hardier on the TDI's on account of the vibration in Diesel engines...

Thanks Yuri,

My shaft was damaged and I was not willing to wait so long for it shipping. Anyways... I am amazed how some people can replace the pulley and belt with such small working space!

I may need this thread as I am having serpentine belt tensioner issues.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=318786

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=287259

Radio code or other issues with battery disconnect?

I have an 2003 Jetta TDI wagon with a wicked whine from the accessory drive. I pre-emptively replaced the tensioner and still had the whine. I now have it isolated to the alternator, either the alternator itself or the pulley. (Used a mechanic's stethoscope and removed the serp belt to isolate).

My real question: The first step in my Haynes manual says to disconnect the battery cable and then gives two cautions about disconnecting the battery cable related to the anti-theft radio (OEM) and the ECM. Has anyone else had experience with these? If needed how do I find the radio code? I have read through the threads related to alternator/pulley replacement with no mention of this (Thanks BTW to Wingnut, Paramedick and others who have written How-To's related to this topic).

Thanks,
Bretgvyer

bretgyver said:

My real question: The first step in my Haynes manual says to disconnect the battery cable and then gives two cautions about disconnecting the battery cable related to the anti-theft radio (OEM) and the ECM. Has anyone else had experience with these? If needed how do I find the radio code?

Click to expand...

My Golf's battery has been disconnected dozens of times and the only things that happen are
1) the trip odometer always resets to zero, and
2) the presets on the radio are sometimes erased, but not usually.

I have no idea where the radio code is, and do not care. It might be a problem on some older models, or some newer models, but apparently not with 2003 models.

Metalman has rebuilt Bosch 120 Amp alternators for with clutched pulleys for $255 shipped and no core charge.

http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=341&categoryId=38

An alternator without pully is $240.

(I have no affiliation with metalman, just satisfied purchasing experiences).

If your radio is the original from the factory then you won't need the code for the radio when the battery is disconnected. On the other hand if the radio has been replaced then every time the battery is disconnected you will need the safe code to reactivate.

I am now the proud owner of the special pulley tools if anyone needs to borrow them in SE PA. I have to swap out the top half (closest to the pulley) of the outer shell from the bad alternator to the good one...yes, one of the tabs was broken from the junk yard. Anyone know how to get the shaft and/or bearing out of the case? Thanks for the help.

I was able to do this on my BEW without removing the alternator. A cotton ball soaked in penetrating oil packed inside the pulley overnight finally allowed my to break the pulley loose. I was certain I was going to snap the shaft or the tool. Actually wasn't sure I didn't snap something when it did break free. But now my tensioner isn't bouncing all over and I don't have belt noise when I turn the wheels.

Thanks

BEWs are a lot easier to get to. It can be done on an ALH with the alternator in the car too (I've done it) but I've also had to pull it because I could not get enough leverage without the bits slipping with the tools I had available to me when I was working on it. In the latter case chucking the inside bit in a vise and sticking a wrench on the outside one with a big cheater bar popped it right off once I yanked the alternator (which CAN be removed without ripping the entire front of the car apart.)

TDI_FNG said:

I was able to do this on my BEW without removing the alternator. A cotton ball soaked in penetrating oil packed inside the pulley overnight finally allowed my to break the pulley loose. I was certain I was going to snap the shaft or the tool. Actually wasn't sure I didn't snap something when it did break free. But now my tensioner isn't bouncing all over and I don't have belt noise when I turn the wheels.
Thanks

Click to expand...

RE: loosening the pulley... My pulley finally loosened at the same exact moment I thought I had pulled/pushed too hard!

All in, I was less than 40 min start to finish (I'm slow) and the new pulley solved the problem that I was quite certain was caused by the power steering pump.

SO: If your tensioner is jumping at idle....the power steering pump complains when you rotate the steering wheel far left or right (at idle RPM) and a quick test of the pulley reveals that will not turn either clockwise nor counter-clockwise then you need a pulley....and the few tools to change it out!
I bought the tool kit from IDPARTS for $30 and the pulley for $60....no regrets, even though I may never need the tool kit again.

shuswap said:

I bought the tool kit from IDPARTS for $30 and the pulley for $60....no regrets, even though I may never need the tool kit again.

Click to expand...

If you plan on keeping the car, yes you will use the tool again. I have changed mine 3 times, seems to last about 100k miles...

Remove pulley "Stub" without removing alternator

I used an air hammer with chisel to spin off the remnants of the alternator pulley while in the car.

To gain some space I removed top intake hose, timing belt cover, and unclipped the small hose that is in your way. place your metalnerd tool in place an brace it with a 12mm boxend


Them aft the wrench is wedged solid hit the stup on an angle with the air chisel- This was what the part looked like after two short bursts and it spun off easily after that.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/o0h6zpcn19o1v7c/AACQRzekrgmXPgBzrc-PGFdqa

is there a certain mileage these things let go, as my friends a5 broke off at 80k I think, (same part number)

My original pulley came off at 320,000 so who knows?