ACME Adapter to 1Z dry fit details
couldn't you guys just use an ALH mani?....if so I'll let go some of my overburden for cheap....
(Edit - yes, yes you can, and I did. Thanks Jimbote!)
jimbote, once the motor's rotated to a longitudinal direction like it finally is in my case...
... the ALH manifold would point toward the firewall. So, no worky for me. There's the chop-in-half-and-rotate-the-top trick, but I'm trying to minimize welding time, even though I happily have a local 30 year master working on it all for a great rate.
Luke, I don't have the most discerning mechanic's eye, but I thought the match of the 1.8 gas manifold with the 1Z's intake ports was so close as not to really matter. I honestly don't know if a 1/8" lip inside the manifold to head connection will be a big deal or not. Thoughts?
So the clutch arrived Thursday evening, a mere couple months after I ordered it. It even came with the wrong sized (32mm) pilot bearing:
The Oilite bushing (21mm OD, 12mm ID - perfect) is on the left, the wrong sized 32mm OD by 12 mm ID pilot bearing from company whose name I'll not be speaking is on the right. Thinking of newbies like myself, here's a point of interest. Why the Oilite bushing and not a bearing? Jeff at ACME told me that the Oilite, which is not inexpensive, is brass infused with graphite, so there's your lubricant - plus, no moving parts/bearing rollers to fail, as in the 32mm bearing. Sweet.
I pulled the bed off the truck to access fuel lines and get rid of 27 year old fuel system stuff that I know bioDiesel will simply dissolve (pump, lines). SO, dc'd lights, license plate, bumper, and 8 bed bolts. Here's another handy tip.
Don't have your wife help you. That bed is real steel, baby, and it's heavy. Also,
don't pull the bed off to the side of the truck - pull it back and off so that you aren't doing Twister in the truck frame to move the bed off to the side.
Back to the mating of trans/engine - 1st, a nice easy setting of the Oilite bushing into crankshaft flange.
The Oilite bushing could probably be hammered with a smooth faced regular hammer, but I opted for wood just to be safe. Keep it level.
Seated Oilite bushing and new rear main crankshaft seal:
I applied a little white lithium grease around the rear main seal's main gasket.
Next, ACME's flywheel:
The orange wood bar clamp is to alleviate and hopefully eliminate the stress on the cam lock and the pin in the pulley up front, maintaining TDC.
Time to make TDC marks:
Bad pic, but it worked. e*clipse is right that, upon the flywheel being centered, it's one tooth to the right. I had to finesse it back and forth a little, noting the strain on the cam lock and trying to split the difference. I also measured the distance from center bolt hole to center bolt hole on the adapter plate - 132.55mm in my case, so 66.275mm is my particular midpoint.
Clutch plate goes on... somehow:
Dang, the clutch plate bolts went with the 22R. Eventually, I figured out that I needed clutch plate bolts M8x1.25x16, grade 10.9, Toyota clutch plate bolt upgrade. Woo hoo! Ace in town had them. Note: same unmentioned co. sells a grade 8.8 bolt upgrade pkg. as being 25% stronger than stock grade 5 bolts. I was told this isn't true... Whatever: thankfully, I got the better bolts.
Be sure to carefully center the clutch disc as you tighten the clutch plate. The clutch alignment tool I got worked well, and I just kept ensuring all was centered as I torqued down the clutch plate bolts (torqued to 14 lb ft).
Holy crap, here it goes!