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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old October 20th, 2008, 20:18   #1
heartofgravy
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Default Lift pump?

Okay, so this is an old story started back up again...

About a year or so ago, as the weather was cold, I had some stalling issues with my 2004 Jetta TDI. It did it right after I fueled. Was able to get it to autozone by keeping the idle very high, coasted in. Changed fuel filter (but this was my first time) and couldn't get it started. Got it towed home, and still couldn't get it started. Pulled the lift pump, checked resistance, looked fine. Eventually just cranked and cranked and it fired. It ran since then no problem. Assumed it was air in the line.

Now: Weather dropped into the 30's the night before and in the morning wouldn't crank. Got it to eventually, drove 60 miles parked it, and again this morning stalled out after it fired. In fact, fired easy, drove about 1/2 mile and it stalled at stop light.

Fuel filter is only 2000 miles on it, if that.

I am tempted to just replace the lift pump, acting very much fuel starved, and the temperature's effect on the viscosity of the fuel making it hard for a weak pump makes sense. The car has 110,000 miles on it, and from posts here these pumps sometimes don't make it 60,000. Only problem, pump is listed at 250$$$$$$. YIKES! I don't want to buy this and get it wrong.

Any ideas? Suggestions of places to purchase said pump?
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Old October 21st, 2008, 16:49   #2
2004STARWARSTDI
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Default Fuel filter

Did you check the theromastic "T" when changing fuel filter. Does it hace any cracks? Notice any fuel on top of filter?
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Old October 22nd, 2008, 16:20   #3
heartofgravy
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No, it is good, and there is no fuel on the filter.

I can get the car to fire, if I hold the pedal to the floor and crank it for a good 20 seconds, but I have to keep the RPMS up or it stalls.

If I hold the RPMs at about 2500 for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the engine warms up some, then it will run normally. But, if I crank it and get going,without warming, it will stall quickly.

I have ordered the lift pump and will be putting it in this Saturday. Hopefully it will do the trick....
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Old October 24th, 2008, 14:39   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heartofgravy
No, it is good, and there is no fuel on the filter.

I can get the car to fire, if I hold the pedal to the floor and crank it for a good 20 seconds, but I have to keep the RPMS up or it stalls.

If I hold the RPMs at about 2500 for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the engine warms up some, then it will run normally. But, if I crank it and get going,without warming, it will stall quickly.

I have ordered the lift pump and will be putting it in this Saturday. Hopefully it will do the trick....
Exact same thing happened to me last month. I had to start it with the pedal floored, and as soon as I dropped the RPMS it would die.

Replaced the lift pump and the car came back to life.

A word of caution that isn't mentioned in the lift-pump walkthrough: make sure you either get the connector wiring right out of the way, or cover it when you're taking the pump out.

As Murphy's Law would have it, I spilled a couple drops of diesel into the connector, and the fuel gauge stopped registering until I disconnected the wiring and cleaned the connectors out with a tiny little rag.

Also, a cleaner product called "Simple Green" is your best friend if you happen to spill any stinky fuel onto the rear upholstery.

Good luck!
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Old October 24th, 2008, 20:20   #5
d2305
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He has them cheaper http://www.boraparts.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=120

Last edited by d2305; October 24th, 2008 at 20:28.
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Old October 25th, 2008, 13:59   #6
heartofgravy
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Default Yes!!!!

Well, I am not much of a mechanic, and I was afraid I was throwing parts at the problem (200$ for the lift pump) I was nervous about this. But with a lot of research here, and some sage advice from a local guru (turbinewhine, awesome guy), I got the old pump out and the new one in (relatively easy, kind of like legos). I still had to hold the pedal to get it to fire, but it ran great afterwards. Seems to be the cure!

Anyone that sees the symptoms like I had above, after you change your fuel filter, go right to the lift pump. On the good side, I have hard some only making it 60000 miles, mine made it 110000.

Oh, and Kerma had a really good price on the pumps, and great customer service.
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Old October 27th, 2008, 08:16   #7
rcnaylor
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I am reading this thread apprehensively. My 2004 Wagon has, I think, started making some louder noise back there intermittently on start up and when the fuel is low.

I have about 56K miles. I don't have any of the other "symptoms" yet, but am thinking this may be the in tank lift pump?
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Old October 27th, 2008, 09:54   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnaylor
I am reading this thread apprehensively. My 2004 Wagon has, I think, started making some louder noise back there intermittently on start up and when the fuel is low.



I have about 56K miles. I don't have any of the other "symptoms" yet, but am thinking this may be the in tank lift pump?

Is the noise happening when you turn the key to the point just before ignition? Have a listen at that point, when the lift pump turns on and tries to prime the lines. It should just be a tiny hum. Mine started growling/rumbling at this point, and intermittently while
the engine was running at other times. Particularly when the tank was low. It won't give you much warning otherwise, until it just dies in traffic like mine.

Apparently the early model pumps were prone to failure. I'd suggest ordering one of the newer kind to have on hand and be safe. (you can be like tony stark and install one in a cave if thats where you break down, using scraps) It's way cheaper than a tow and a new pump at dealer prices.
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Last edited by winterlocked; October 27th, 2008 at 10:01.
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