ALH ECU swap - MSA15 to EDC15

DJGonzo

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Jan 28, 2010
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Souf Amurica
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99.5 Jetta 2.0 BHW
Here is the timing on the stock ECU:


Why would I need to rewire anything though? I get absolutely no fault codes and I have the 80 pin MSA15 not the 68 pin.
 

DJGonzo

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I can't even look at the timing with the new ECU. The RPM jumps up and down and group 0 goes away.

I WAS able to get this though:
 

m1ketdi

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May 18, 2009
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Leam
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Leon BKD
Something is definitely wrong there...... Compare a few more of the blocks between old and new ecu.
 

DJGonzo

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Yeah I'm at a loss. It has to do something with the timing though.
Actual timing on new ECU is always pegged at 27.9 BTDC

What wire does the ECU get the actual timing info?
Is it pin 114?

Edit: New code
17656 - Start of Injection Timing Regulation: Control Deviation
P1248 - 35-00 - -
 
Last edited:

m1ketdi

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Leon BKD
Actual timing comes from the third injector. To me it seems like you have wired up your pump wrong somehow.
 

DJGonzo

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So which part of the wiring do you think its wrong? I have triple checked everything and everything looks OK.
I feel that it has to be something really small. Something dumb.
 

DJGonzo

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Bump. Any ideas?

I will take a look at the needle lift sensor wiring today.

Its just weird Im not getting any codes.
 

DJGonzo

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But it starts up when cold really fast. In fact, it starts with just just one whole turn. Maybe less. When its really cold, it will turn on really fast but then stall out. If you re-start it a few times, it will run, but erratically.

I got it to warm up with my old ECU and then swapped the new one. When I did that, it didn't smoke as bad but it was still very erratic.

I will take a look at the cold start valve.
 

DPM

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2019 Rav4 AWD Hybrid, Citroen C4 BlueHDI
You could certainly unplug the solenoid. I'm gonna guess you've got it straight to one of the rails whereas it's meant to be PWM'd by the ECU.
 

DJGonzo

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I unplugged the N108 and it revs much better but it sounds like it detonates on and off like the injection advance goes back and forth.
 

Keebler145

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Niles, Ohio
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Jetta MKIV 2000, 2003, and MKV 2006 PD DSG
it clicking on and off is making me think you have a short or a blown fuse DJ, I would start checking stuff for loose connections.

Edit:

I would actually start with the ecu wiring that controls that solenoid (I'm sorry I'm not a guru on this just speaking from experience)
 

keaton

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Mesa AZ, 85202
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so what is the point of this swap to have a ECU that you can easily map?


That makes no sense. It does not matter how "earths"(or grounds we call it in the US) go together as they all go to the same place anyway.
WRONG! EMI will effect the signal quality and in a car there are lots of thing that will create noise. Almost every production circuit board has 2 ground planes, Analog Ground and Digital Ground. The 2 planes are tied together in 1 spot but are kept separation for noise isolation.

ever been in a car that has a wine in the radio and the wine changes according to RPM..... no imagine that on a sensor that is reading data.
 

DJGonzo

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99.5 Jetta 2.0 BHW
it clicking on and off is making me think you have a short or a blown fuse DJ, I would start checking stuff for loose connections.

Edit:

I would actually start with the ecu wiring that controls that solenoid (I'm sorry I'm not a guru on this just speaking from experience)
The adapter harness is absolutely positively 100% correct. I triple checked everything before hot gluing my adapter harness. I have checked with Bentley, and multiple Excel spreadsheets with EDC15/MSA15 wiring info.

There is no way I have a blown fuse. When I put the opld ECU back, it fires right up and runs perfectly.

so what is the point of this swap to have a ECU that you can easily map?
Yes. That's the idea.
I refuse to solder in a header and program a flash chip every time I want to tweak something with this car. I flash other cars thru the OBD port and I'm not settling for less. This was supposed to be a straight swap pretty much and this issue is aggravating me :mad:
 

DJGonzo

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Bump. I think my ECU might be fried. Gonna try the ECU off my other TDI which is taken apart and see if that works.
 

DJGonzo

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Yeah I bought an entire harness for around 120 bucks and installed the whole thing under 3 hours.
 

gmenounos

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Jun 26, 2003
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Watertown, MA, USA
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'99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
Yeah I bought an entire harness for around 120 bucks and installed the whole thing under 3 hours.
I'm planning to do the same (install a 2000 harness/ECU into my 99.5). Did you have to replace any sensors/connectors or did everything plug right in? I'm guessing at least the CTS needed upgrading since I think they changed to the D-shaped connector in 2000.

Thanks, Greg
 

Combine17

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Ontario - Hamilton
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2001 Golf GTD
I'm planning to do the same (install a 2000 harness/ECU into my 99.5). Did you have to replace any sensors/connectors or did everything plug right in? I'm guessing at least the CTS needed upgrading since I think they changed to the D-shaped connector in 2000.

Thanks, Greg
i read through this thread and not exactly sure whats being done here?

swapping 99.5 ECU and engine harness TO immo2 ECU and engine harness??

if so, this is exactly what im planning to do. any more details?

i know the n75 is different
the CTS different as well
cant think anything else off the top of my head
 

SuperAdellic

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Beaufort, SC
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None
DJGonzo has a 99.5 Jetta, which has a 80 pin ecu that is not flashable through the OBD port. He switched to a 2000 or later ecu, which is 121 pin and is flashable through the OBD port. I have also read that the 121 pin ecu is faster due to running EDC15 vs the MSA15 of the earlier ecus, but I have no experience with how much of a difference it makes. Your 01 Jetta should already have a IMMO2 and an EDC15 ecu. Are you talking about upgrading a different TDI?
 

DJGonzo

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I'm planning to do the same (install a 2000 harness/ECU into my 99.5). Did you have to replace any sensors/connectors or did everything plug right in? I'm guessing at least the CTS needed upgrading since I think they changed to the D-shaped connector in 2000.

Thanks, Greg
Yes you will need a new green-top CTS. I suggest you buy new. $15 bucks at most.

What I did was swap all the plugs over. The new harness had some round plugs. I just spliced in the old square plugs and voila!

The new harness had the glow plug harness clipped though :rolleyes:
All I did was delete the DTC for the glowplugs and ABS module and I was able to pass inspection :)
 

tigre93

Member
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Mar 3, 2013
Location
Portugal
TDI
ibiza 6k2
hi friends, i make the swap, car start but only stays on 1200rpm.

i need to make this conections:

51 gas pedal (pin 6) green/red add
53 intake temp (pin 1) brown/blue add
49 air mass flow (pin 3) purple/green add
33 (T10e/8) green add
80 (T10/7) purple/yellow add
47 hazard switch (8/AB) green/purple add
88 +12v X (S10/5) black/green add


where i get this wires?

regards
 

Davegsm82

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MK7 Golf TDI 2.0 CRB 150BHP + T25 Vanagon AFN 110BHP
DJGonzo, sorry to drag this thread from the dead, I was wondering if you knew what the actual reason was for your poor idling before you changed your harness?

I put an MSA15 into my VW T3 a couple of years ago and have decided to make up a loom for the EDC15, plugged it in and started up, it runs exactly the same way as yours does in the video.

Wiring loom came from a skoda octavia (same as MK4 Golf) and everything is wired properly.

Also could you describe the procedure for deleting the Powertrain message DTCs?

Thanks, Dave.
 

Davegsm82

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MK7 Golf TDI 2.0 CRB 150BHP + T25 Vanagon AFN 110BHP
Figured it out, the signal wires from the crank sensor were swapped so the pulse going to the ECU was the wrong phase.
 
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